On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 00:19:25 + (UTC), you wrote:
Those are tapered walls. The contours for those pockets are about 50 thou inset
at the bottom of the pocket, so the walls are that much thicker down there. It
might be worth investigating using a 3/8 endmill with a 1/16 radius end. That
would
Greg Michalski emc2usrl...@... writes:
snip...
Aside from a 5 axis (drool..), would a tapered endmill (such as used for
mold work) achieve the desired angle? Just spit-balling. Very nice work
Tom - great to see stuff like this.
Thanks Greg. I have not used tapered endmill yet, but it
Get a tapered end mill.
Ken
Stephen Wille Padnos wrote:
Tom wrote:
Steve Blackmore st...@... writes:
Hi Tom - can't you remove them with a full depth finishing cut? Distinct
edges like that are stress magnets ;)
Steve Blackmore
Hi Steve,
Those are tapered walls. The
Tom wrote:
Those are tapered walls. The contours for those pockets are about 50 thou inset
at the bottom of the pocket, so the walls are that much thicker down there. It
might be worth investigating using a 3/8 endmill with a 1/16 radius end. That
would give some gradation to each Z level
At 09:48 AM 1/16/2009, you wrote:
One thing to keep in mind when considering the tapered end mill idea
is chatter.
The existing stepped design limits the depth of cut (width of
cutting edge engaged) to the height of one step. If you use a
tapered end mill, the cutting edge will be engaged in
John Kasunich wrote:
One thing to keep in mind when considering the tapered end mill idea
is chatter.
The existing stepped design limits the depth of cut (width of cutting
edge engaged) to the height of one step. If you use a tapered end
mill, the cutting edge will be engaged in the cut
Andre B. ablanch...@... writes:
Yep, were it me I would put some bigger radii in the corners and run
a carbide ball end mill finish pass with say 0.005 or less down
steps. Wind it up as fast as it will turn and feed it as fast as it will go.
In the video that squawking that John is
Tom, bravo !
Are the parallel marks inside the part made on purpose or due to the multi
layer milling ?
Jorge L.
-Mensagem original-
De: Tom [mailto:kestrel...@yahoo.com]
Enviada em: quinta-feira, 15 de janeiro de 2009 03:23
Para: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Assunto: [Emc-users]
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jorge_Louren=E7o_Jr.?= writes:
Tom, bravo !
Are the parallel marks inside the part made on purpose or due to the multi
layer milling ?
Jorge L.
Hi Jorge,
Those marks are from multi layer milling.
Tom
On Thu, 15 Jan 2009 18:40:59 + (UTC), you wrote:
Are the parallel marks inside the part made on purpose or due to the multi
layer milling ?
Jorge L.
Hi Jorge,
Those marks are from multi layer milling.
Hi Tom - can't you remove them with a full depth finishing cut? Distinct
edges like
Steve Blackmore st...@... writes:
Hi Tom - can't you remove them with a full depth finishing cut? Distinct
edges like that are stress magnets ;)
Steve Blackmore
Hi Steve,
Those are tapered walls. The contours for those pockets are about 50 thou inset
at the bottom of the pocket, so the
Tom wrote:
Steve Blackmore st...@... writes:
Hi Tom - can't you remove them with a full depth finishing cut? Distinct
edges like that are stress magnets ;)
Steve Blackmore
Hi Steve,
Those are tapered walls. The contours for those pockets are about 50 thou inset
at the bottom of the
Hi Tom - can't you remove them with a full depth finishing cut? Distinct
edges like that are stress magnets ;)
Steve Blackmore
Hi Steve,
Those are tapered walls. The contours for those pockets are about 50 thou
inset
at the bottom of the pocket, so the walls are that much thicker down
On Thu, Jan 15, 2009 at 10:44:48PM -0500, Greg Michalski wrote:
I saw the mention of EMC2 2.3...at the risk of getting the whole list
drooling on keyboards and causing mass crashing of emc-users list member's
computers, is 2.3 expected within the next ~3 months or so?
I think this plan still
Tom wrote:
Hi Steve,
Those are tapered walls. The contours for those pockets are about 50 thou
inset
at the bottom of the pocket, so the walls are that much thicker down there. It
might be worth investigating using a 3/8 endmill with a 1/16 radius end. That
would give some gradation to each
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