[Emc-users] Where to post LinuxCNC issues?

[Marius Alksnys]

The issue tracker wiki 
pagehttp://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Trackers refers to does not 
accept new issues. Where should I post them?

In documentation, html/gcode/g-code.html#gcode:g90.1-g91.1:

G90.1 - absolute distance mode for I, J & K offsets. When G90.1 is in 
effect I and J both must be specified with G2/3 for the XY plane or J 
and K for the XZ plane or it is an error.

I think it is incomplete and incorrect.


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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Gregg Eshelman]

If they have a metric screws by the pound sign, take a picture of it. :)

 
  From: Dave Cole 
 To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net 
 Sent: Monday, May 9, 2016 7:06 AM
 Subject: Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?
   
Gene,
Do you have any Rural King stores around you?
The local big Rural King is selling metric screws by the pound.
A little ironic I think;  They should probably be selling them by the 
Kilogram.  ;-)
That said; I doubt that they have 7mm screws if they are rare. But I 
know they have 6 and 8 mm screws by the lb and for about the same price
as SAE sizes.

   
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Re: [Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 09 May 2016 22:41:30 Jon Elson wrote:

> On 05/09/2016 09:08 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > So I guess my assumptions are fairly correct, eg turn it slow enough
> > not to spew sparks, and don't force it.  The latter I am doing but
> > at very low rates of feed, and motions that limit the rims contact
> > with a wide area of the casting.  The only thing I found was a
> > recommendation that when running dry, it be given a cooling rest to
> > keep it from over heating and ablating the diamond away.  The cut it
> > is currently doing is about 5/8ths done, and the block was up to
> > about 110F while the rim of the saw was around 120F when as its
> > late, I paused it and turned off the spindle after it had spun free
> > at the end of the current pass. Tommorrow it will be back to room
> > temp, low 70's F, and I don't think I should add any cooling pauses,
> > given the minimal rise in temps I am seeing with my IR thermometer
> > now, unless you folks think I should.  So sound off if you disagree.
>
> Geez, why are you using a diamond blade on cast iron?  Do
> you need an insanely narrow kerf for some reason?  That's
> about the only reason I can imagine to do this.  Otherwise,
> an HSS slitting saw sounds like a much better way to go.
> (Maybe, if you can get one, an M42 or M57 saw blade would be
> better, as CI is pretty abrasive.)
>
The cut in this case, is a bit north of 4" deep, hence the 10" blade.  
And I am using what I can src locally.  The average turning force is 
less and far more even a load than a single tooth PCD blade at 3x the 
cost of a $45 continuous edge tile blade, and I'd be waiting a week on 
the PCD blade.

> I cut aluminum all the time with HSS slitting saws.  CI is
> not all that much harder to cut, but it will wear the saw
> faster.  I use flood coolant, slowed down to a dribble and
> am still on my first saw blades after quite a lot of
> slitting operations.
>
> I've never heard of running diamond saws dry!  Seems like
> you need coolant or something just to keep the cut from
> filling with swarf and jamming.
>
> Jon
>

I believe I have heard it do that now and then, but not since I added a 
long y stroke across the cut after each x increment.  That, coupled with 
a backtrace .05mm z offset from the fwd y move, seems to have tamed 
that. I haven't seen the motor amps above 3.2 in quite a while.  Cutting 
air at that 400 revs speed is about 2.0 amps.  Low gear of course.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
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-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

[andy pugh]

On 9 May 2016 at 23:13, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> Thanks Andy.  I should point out that I am not turning it just yet, but
> sawing off a slice,

And on further research, that probably matters, I have found diamond
blades specifically for rebar and girders with a bit of light
googling.

Diamond loss during grinding with many more diamonds to pick up the
baton is a lot less of a problem with a grinding wheel than with a
turning tool.


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Re: [Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 09 May 2016 22:40:45 andy pugh wrote:

> I am not an expert in diamond sawing, so take that as a caveat.
> However, as far as I know diamond turning of iron-based materials is
> almost never done. For iron-based materials the abrasive of choice is
> CBN.
> The reason for this is, as I understand it, is because carbon is
> soluble in iron. In fact the whole marvellous thing that is ferrous
> metallurgy is just playing games with the various things that
> solutions of carbon dissolved in iron can do when you heat and cool
> them.
>
> Diamond turning of aluminium and copper alloy parts has been standard
> for 50 years or more. You won't find many references to
> diamond-turning of iron alloys.

Thanks Andy.  I should point out that I am not turning it just yet, but 
sawing off a slice, nominally 1.75" thick, that I can turn, eventually 
into a block the same height as the compound carriage is, to add some 
mass to the crossfeed, and to offset the QC holder to the rear and 
right, thereby putting the typical cutting tool much closer to the 
center of the Z carriage so the cutting forces are essentially straight 
down on the center of the Z carriage.  And that I am not achieving a 
temperature where the carbon (in the diamond dust) can dissolve into the 
iron.  At no time has the blade or the workpiece been heated to the 
point I can't rest my hand on either.  Slow, but it seems to be a pretty 
precise way to do it, so far.  Got a huge pile of grey cast iron dust 
though.

Ignore that thumping sound, thats just me, knocking on wood. ;-)

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

[andy pugh]

On 9 May 2016 at 22:46, Todd  Zuercher
 wrote:
> My only real experience with a diamond saw (and not much at that) is cutting 
> masonry, and there the more water you throw at it the better.

I have cut a great deal of hard sandstone with a dry diamond blade
with a petrol Stihl saw and blade life has been excellent. I think it
depends on the blade design.   I think that many of them are designed
for dry cutting.

There seems to be some good info here.
http://www.nortonconstructionproducts.com/application/diamond-blades.aspx


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Re: [Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

[Todd Zuercher]

My only real experience with a diamond saw (and not much at that) is cutting 
masonry, and there the more water you throw at it the better.

- Original Message -
From: "Gene Heskett" 
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Sent: Monday, May 9, 2016 10:08:32 PM
Subject: [Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

Greetings all;

I just spent the better part of 2 hours, reading just about everything I 
could find on the care and feeding of diamond edged saw blades.

Cutting using them to cut metal seems to be searching for about a 10-33 
Tor vacuum.

I would think this is a well researched, and well recorded subject.  
Nada, zip, other than an occasional very generalized statement can be 
found.

So I guess my assumptions are fairly correct, eg turn it slow enough not 
to spew sparks, and don't force it.  The latter I am doing but at very 
low rates of feed, and motions that limit the rims contact with a wide 
area of the casting.  The only thing I found was a recommendation that 
when running dry, it be given a cooling rest to keep it from over 
heating and ablating the diamond away.  The cut it is currently doing is 
about 5/8ths done, and the block was up to about 110F while the rim of 
the saw was around 120F when as its late, I paused it and turned off the 
spindle after it had spun free at the end of the current pass. Tommorrow 
it will be back to room temp, low 70's F, and I don't think I should add 
any cooling pauses, given the minimal rise in temps I am seeing with my 
IR thermometer now, unless you folks think I should.  So sound off if 
you disagree.

Someone who considers himself a bit of an expert on diamond sawing 
should put his experience in the wikipedia.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

[Jon Elson]

On 05/09/2016 09:08 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> So I guess my assumptions are fairly correct, eg turn it slow enough not
> to spew sparks, and don't force it.  The latter I am doing but at very
> low rates of feed, and motions that limit the rims contact with a wide
> area of the casting.  The only thing I found was a recommendation that
> when running dry, it be given a cooling rest to keep it from over
> heating and ablating the diamond away.  The cut it is currently doing is
> about 5/8ths done, and the block was up to about 110F while the rim of
> the saw was around 120F when as its late, I paused it and turned off the
> spindle after it had spun free at the end of the current pass. Tommorrow
> it will be back to room temp, low 70's F, and I don't think I should add
> any cooling pauses, given the minimal rise in temps I am seeing with my
> IR thermometer now, unless you folks think I should.  So sound off if
> you disagree.
>
>
Geez, why are you using a diamond blade on cast iron?  Do 
you need an insanely narrow kerf for some reason?  That's 
about the only reason I can imagine to do this.  Otherwise, 
an HSS slitting saw sounds like a much better way to go.  
(Maybe, if you can get one, an M42 or M57 saw blade would be 
better, as CI is pretty abrasive.)

I cut aluminum all the time with HSS slitting saws.  CI is 
not all that much harder to cut, but it will wear the saw 
faster.  I use flood coolant, slowed down to a dribble and 
am still on my first saw blades after quite a lot of 
slitting operations.

I've never heard of running diamond saws dry!  Seems like 
you need coolant or something just to keep the cut from 
filling with swarf and jamming.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

[andy pugh]

I am not an expert in diamond sawing, so take that as a caveat.
However, as far as I know diamond turning of iron-based materials is
almost never done. For iron-based materials the abrasive of choice is
CBN.
The reason for this is, as I understand it, is because carbon is
soluble in iron. In fact the whole marvellous thing that is ferrous
metallurgy is just playing games with the various things that
solutions of carbon dissolved in iron can do when you heat and cool
them.

Diamond turning of aluminium and copper alloy parts has been standard
for 50 years or more. You won't find many references to
diamond-turning of iron alloys.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916

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[Emc-users] Cutting cast iron with a dry diamond blade

[Gene Heskett]

Greetings all;

I just spent the better part of 2 hours, reading just about everything I 
could find on the care and feeding of diamond edged saw blades.

Cutting using them to cut metal seems to be searching for about a 10-33 
Tor vacuum.

I would think this is a well researched, and well recorded subject.  
Nada, zip, other than an occasional very generalized statement can be 
found.

So I guess my assumptions are fairly correct, eg turn it slow enough not 
to spew sparks, and don't force it.  The latter I am doing but at very 
low rates of feed, and motions that limit the rims contact with a wide 
area of the casting.  The only thing I found was a recommendation that 
when running dry, it be given a cooling rest to keep it from over 
heating and ablating the diamond away.  The cut it is currently doing is 
about 5/8ths done, and the block was up to about 110F while the rim of 
the saw was around 120F when as its late, I paused it and turned off the 
spindle after it had spun free at the end of the current pass. Tommorrow 
it will be back to room temp, low 70's F, and I don't think I should add 
any cooling pauses, given the minimal rise in temps I am seeing with my 
IR thermometer now, unless you folks think I should.  So sound off if 
you disagree.

Someone who considers himself a bit of an expert on diamond sawing 
should put his experience in the wikipedia.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Dave Cole]

Then you will fit right in!  ;-)

Dave

On 5/9/2016 5:55 PM, andy pugh wrote:
> On 9 May 2016 at 23:37, Dave Cole  wrote:
>> On Warren, You will drive by some seedy places as you go east of the
>> Southfield freeway and then it gets better. (The area is really quite safe)
> I _live_ in a seedy area. :-)
>

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[andy pugh]

On 9 May 2016 at 23:37, Dave Cole  wrote:
> On Warren, You will drive by some seedy places as you go east of the
> Southfield freeway and then it gets better. (The area is really quite safe)

I _live_ in a seedy area. :-)

-- 
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designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Dave Cole]

On 5/9/2016 4:49 PM, andy pugh wrote:
> On 9 May 2016 at 18:22, Dave Cole  wrote:
>> Andy is probably going to want to stop there and pickup some arms since
>> I heard he is coming to the Detroit area probably to hang out at the
>> Ford glass house.  ;-)
> Actually, I am sat in the office at Roush based in what appears to be
> an abandoned police station. I amnot sure what to read into the fact
> that there is an abandoned police station in Dearborn.
>

Ah  the Jack Roush organization...   Hi Po Ford stuff, etc.Fun!

Police Station:  I think they may have given up and left.   ;-) Actually 
most of Dearborn is very safe.   No sidearms required.

Hey if you want a great place to go for after dinner snacks and you like 
*really* good ice cream.

Get on Warren road, east of the Southfield freeway  and go east to this 
place.
http://www.shatila.com/
http://www.shatila.com/directions.html

Also, if you are into Bakeries...  The Golden Bakery shown in the 
Shatila Map and the New Yasmeen bakery further east on the same side of 
the road is really good.
http://yasmeenbakery.com/adwert.html
But they sell most of their goods before noon so the bakeries will be 
short of goods or closed soon.  Shatila's stays open quite late.   A lot 
of people head there for desert after dinner.

My favorite is New Yasmeen's hot cheesy bread.   They pull it out of the 
brick oven and hand it to you.   Might be a good lunch stop.

On Warren, You will drive by some seedy places as you go east of the 
Southfield freeway and then it gets better. (The area is really quite safe)

I think Shatila may have the best ice cream period.  Their pastries are 
also extremely good.

Dave



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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[andy pugh]

On 9 May 2016 at 18:22, Dave Cole  wrote:
> Andy is probably going to want to stop there and pickup some arms since
> I heard he is coming to the Detroit area probably to hang out at the
> Ford glass house.  ;-)

Actually, I am sat in the office at Roush based in what appears to be
an abandoned police station. I amnot sure what to read into the fact
that there is an abandoned police station in Dearborn.


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designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Peter Blodow]

I made some M35 taps by hand years ago when I built my observatory, it 
took two persons, though.
Peter

Am 09.05.2016 22:23, schrieb Adam McLeod:
> If you are lacking torque, another option is to only run the tap in to
> your first peck, then hand tap the rest.  There should be enough there
> to get the tap started nice and square, and M8 taps aren't too difficult
> to drive by hand with a decent wrench.
>
> Adam
>


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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Adam McLeod]

If you are lacking torque, another option is to only run the tap in to 
your first peck, then hand tap the rest.  There should be enough there 
to get the tap started nice and square, and M8 taps aren't too difficult 
to drive by hand with a decent wrench.

Adam

On 2016-05-07 22:49, Gene Heskett wrote:

> 
> But that will be loads of fun because with the 7mm tap in the chuck, I
> had to keep asking for a smaller peck per stroke because even in low
> gear, and the current limit in Jon's servo amp set to limit at about 15
> amps, 150% drive for that motors nameplate,

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 09 May 2016 14:14:12 Nicklas Karlsson wrote:

> > > > Probably true, but IIRC they have a minimum order, and I am
> > > > running out of time, ...
> > >
> > > You might get lucky if you look at the lamp hook.
> >
> > Lamp hook?
>
> Yes, the lamp hooks in my roof use M7, I need longer screws but nobody
> sell, it is this built in kind of plastic box with threads in the
> bottom.

Our stuff on this side of the pond usually use 6-nc32's for that sort of 
stuff.  Too weak IMO.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 09 May 2016 13:22:41 Dave Cole wrote:

> Well, it looks like they are getting closer to you.
> http://www.ruralking.com/storelocator/index/index

I had to go to 75 miles to find 3 stores, but the distance claimed is a 
straight line path. 60 miles to Parkersburg but from here, on a good 
road, I-79 to US-50, its a lot closer to 100 miles.  You could cut the 
mileage some, at the expense of time as many of the roads that might cut 
the total mileage down to 90 or so, are also laid out by the only side 
winder rattlesnake every loosed in WV. 35 mph tops because the corners 
at that close together.

> They have expanded rapidly in Indiana.
> They are like a TSC on Steroids.
> They also sell a lot of things that go bang.   I think firearms is a
> substantial part of their business.

We could use that.

> Andy is probably going to want to stop there and pickup some arms
> since I heard he is coming to the Detroit area probably to hang out at
> the Ford glass house.  ;-)
> (Just kidding Andy - I drove across I-94 yesterday and didn't see a
> single shooting)

You must have blinked at the wrong time. :)

> Dave
>
> On 5/9/2016 11:49 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Monday 09 May 2016 09:06:39 Dave Cole wrote:
> >> Gene,
> >> Do you have any Rural King stores around you?
> >
> > Never heard of them.  Where are you that you have one of those
> > critters nearby?
> >
> >> The local big Rural King is selling metric screws by the pound.
> >> A little ironic I think;  They should probably be selling them by
> >> the Kilogram.  ;-)
> >
> > BWG and a Chuckle. But probably wise since the Jane & Joe Sixpack's
> > here have never been able to make sense out of the metric system. 
> > In the 70's (IIRC) when some brands tried selling gasolene by the
> > litre, no one understood that about 4 made about a gallon, & the
> > pump handles stayed clean & the station owners starved until they
> > threw those meters in the ditch and brought back the gallon
> > calibrated ones. To them, it clearly was not a problem that needed
> > fixed.  Had it been mandated for at least a year, us 'merican's
> > would have coped or left it set where ever it ran out of gas...
> >
> >> That said; I doubt that they have 7mm screws if they are rare. But
> >> I know they have 6 and 8 mm screws by the lb and for about the same
> >> price as SAE sizes.
> >
> > I bought 2 ea 8mm1.25's in 25, 30, and 40mm lengths yesterday, and
> > was about $8 poorer when shuffling back out the door leaning on my
> > cane.  So by the pound or kg sales of metric has not yet arrived in
> > West Virginia.
> >
> > OTOH, what I can buy in Allen head caps are all the grade 12 equ to
> > an SAE NC or NF bolt. I might pull the threads out of the hole, but
> > have not put a stretch into one of them yet.  The 6mm failed by
> > pulling the threads out of the hole. Easy since that arbor is
> > home-made, out of 3/4" rod from TSC's stock iron bin, pretty soft
> > stuff in real life. 1065? I don't think its even that hard.
> >
> > If and when I ever get this block carved out and mounted in place of
> > the compound on my 7x12, which will stiffen and help de-chatter the
> > tool post mounting on my 7x12, I have some short lengths of mine
> > shafting in 1.25" diameters, and will make a newer one with a 3/4"
> > spud & driving faces at least 1.125" in diameter.
> >
> > But that stuff is seriously HARD steel.  I made the spools for the
> > dampers out of it, and on that 7x12, it wasn't easy and used up a
> > $150 pack of chips for my turning tools making 4 of them. $pensive,
> > but they did help, a lot.  Education costs money I guess, regardless
> > of how you get it. :)
> >
> > Thanks Dave.
> > [...]
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Nicklas Karlsson]

> > > Probably true, but IIRC they have a minimum order, and I am running
> > > out of time, ...
> >
> > You might get lucky if you look at the lamp hook.
> 
> Lamp hook?

Yes, the lamp hooks in my roof use M7, I need longer screws but nobody sell, it 
is this built in kind of plastic box with threads in the bottom.

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Dave Cole]

Well, it looks like they are getting closer to you.
http://www.ruralking.com/storelocator/index/index
They have expanded rapidly in Indiana.
They are like a TSC on Steroids.
They also sell a lot of things that go bang.   I think firearms is a 
substantial part of their business.
Andy is probably going to want to stop there and pickup some arms since 
I heard he is coming to the Detroit area probably to hang out at the 
Ford glass house.  ;-)
(Just kidding Andy - I drove across I-94 yesterday and didn't see a 
single shooting)

Dave

On 5/9/2016 11:49 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Monday 09 May 2016 09:06:39 Dave Cole wrote:
>
>> Gene,
>> Do you have any Rural King stores around you?
> Never heard of them.  Where are you that you have one of those critters
> nearby?
>
>> The local big Rural King is selling metric screws by the pound.
>> A little ironic I think;  They should probably be selling them by the
>> Kilogram.  ;-)
> BWG and a Chuckle. But probably wise since the Jane & Joe Sixpack's here
> have never been able to make sense out of the metric system.  In the
> 70's (IIRC) when some brands tried selling gasolene by the litre, no one
> understood that about 4 made about a gallon, & the pump handles stayed
> clean & the station owners starved until they threw those meters in the
> ditch and brought back the gallon calibrated ones. To them, it clearly
> was not a problem that needed fixed.  Had it been mandated for at least
> a year, us 'merican's would have coped or left it set where ever it ran
> out of gas...
>
>> That said; I doubt that they have 7mm screws if they are rare. But I
>> know they have 6 and 8 mm screws by the lb and for about the same
>> price as SAE sizes.
> I bought 2 ea 8mm1.25's in 25, 30, and 40mm lengths yesterday, and was
> about $8 poorer when shuffling back out the door leaning on my cane.  So
> by the pound or kg sales of metric has not yet arrived in West Virginia.
>
> OTOH, what I can buy in Allen head caps are all the grade 12 equ to an
> SAE NC or NF bolt. I might pull the threads out of the hole, but have
> not put a stretch into one of them yet.  The 6mm failed by pulling the
> threads out of the hole. Easy since that arbor is home-made, out of 3/4"
> rod from TSC's stock iron bin, pretty soft stuff in real life. 1065? I
> don't think its even that hard.
>
> If and when I ever get this block carved out and mounted in place of the
> compound on my 7x12, which will stiffen and help de-chatter the tool
> post mounting on my 7x12, I have some short lengths of mine shafting in
> 1.25" diameters, and will make a newer one with a 3/4" spud & driving
> faces at least 1.125" in diameter.
>
> But that stuff is seriously HARD steel.  I made the spools for the
> dampers out of it, and on that 7x12, it wasn't easy and used up a $150
> pack of chips for my turning tools making 4 of them. $pensive, but they
> did help, a lot.  Education costs money I guess, regardless of how you
> get it. :)
>
> Thanks Dave.
> [...]
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 09 May 2016 12:24:53 Nicklas Karlsson wrote:

> > Probably true, but IIRC they have a minimum order, and I am running
> > out of time, ...
>
> You might get lucky if you look at the lamp hook.

Lamp hook?

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 09 May 2016 09:52:09 andy pugh wrote:

> On 9 May 2016 at 03:13, Gene Heskett  wrote:
> > Your 7mm holes, if 1.0 pitch, can probably be made into 8mm x1.0
> > holes for bolts you can get with the right drill &_ tap.
>
> I have 8x1 taps for proximity sensor holes, but I would reckon on
> having less luck finding M8x1 bolts than M7x1 bolts.

They (8x1's) are in the hens teeth category on this side of the pond too 
Andy. I have both taps and dies, so I could make them, but I've no 
hardening facilities.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Nicklas Karlsson]

> Probably true, but IIRC they have a minimum order, and I am running out 
> of time, ...

You might get lucky if you look at the lamp hook.

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Re: [Emc-users] Any Interest or Ideas for a Linuxcnc Fest, 2016 ?

[Jim Craig]

Well it turns out that I will not be able to make it to the CNC workshop 
this year. Too many other things going on in the same time frame. I hope 
you all have a good time there. Maybe I will make it next year.

Jim

On 5/2/2016 8:12 PM, Jim Craig wrote:
> I would like to come to the workshop and I could possibly present. If 
> we are coming as a presenter do we register as a student on the webpage?
>
> I see the Best Western Greenfield Inn is close by. Has anybody stayed 
> there. Is this a good part of town to stay overnight? I am totally 
> unfamiliar with the greater Detroit area.
>
> I am not sure I can make it for Wednesday thru Saturday. I might be 
> able to make it for Thursday and Friday.
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> On 5/2/2016 6:08 PM, Ron Ginger wrote:
>> I would really  like to see more linuxCNC presence at the workshop. So
>> far Jon Elson and Bob Luken have agreed to do a session on LinuxCNC, but
>> I could make a lot more room for Linux sessions. I have several slots on
>> Friday which I want to be 'how I did my system' talks by users. There is
>> room in the techShop to have a linux area. There will be a few vendors-
>> Tormach included.
>>
>> We have set Saturday as a free open to the public day to a swap meet and
>> the vendor displays.
>>
>> This is not that big of an event- it is really the continuation of what
>> started at Rolands shop in Galesburg IL several years ago where linux
>> had a huge presence.
>>
>> ron ginger
>>
>>
>> On 5/2/2016 2:24 PM, emc-users-requ...@lists.sourceforge.net wrote:
>>> On 05/02/2016 10:27 AM, bari wrote:
>>>
>>> I'd like that very much.
>>>
>>>
> Any ideas where to hold it? Are there any other events this summer 
> with
> overlapping interests?
>>> There's "The CNC Workshop 2016", June 8-16 in Detroit:
>>> http://www.thecncworkshop.com/
>>>
>>> That seems like a big expo with vendors and classes and things 
>>> (which is
>>> important for project visibility), though i prefer a more focused
>>> developer-centric hackfest like what we did at Tx/Rx.
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Sebastian Kuzminsky
>>
>> --
>>  
>>
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>> Manager
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>>
>


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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 09 May 2016 09:27:26 Rick Lair wrote:

> Hello Gene,
>
> Not sure if it was mentioned,
>
> Have you looked at Mcmaster Carr, I see they have M7x1 SHCS, various
> lengths,
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=12c2urv
>
> And you could have them next day,
>
> Rick

Probably true, but IIRC they have a minimum order, and I am running out 
of time, so I made it work with some TSC bolts yesterday, and have it 
about 1/2 cut way thru the first cut by the time I called it beer thirty 
last night. Time being measured in how much longer my back will let me 
walk.

In the process last night, I came to the conclusion I was wasting time 
trying to drive it straight thru as the cutting face was, in the middle 
of the cut, some 4" wide on the rim of the saw blade.  So I stopped and 
wrote some code that put the blade at the rear of the cut and pushed the 
table to the rear by 45mm at 40mm a minute, then raised it .005mm and 
retraced it back the the starting point, then advanced 1mm at 1mm feed, 
then ran the y out and back.

And I just realized that .005mm for the rise I was thinking inches, so 
when I restart the rest of that cut, I'll edit that up a bit as the idea 
is to maintain some side clearance for the blade.  And in metric, .005mm 
isn't squat. 0.05 or even .1 would be more like it.  That first move at 
40mm/min, cutting a mm deeper, isn't running the motor current above 
3.25 amps, and its throwing a quite visible stream of iron dust out of 
the slot. Some dust on the retrace, and the net speed is about 10x what 
I could do without the y motion to concentrate the cut on a much smaller 
length of blade circumference.

At 400 revs, no sparks which would tell me I am burning up the diamonds, 
just iron dust all over.  I assume that is the desirable state of 
affairs since the blade was $45 USD.

Clearly, I need a power hacksaw. but I've no room left for one.

> On 05/09/2016 09:06 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
> > Gene,
> > Do you have any Rural King stores around you?
> > The local big Rural King is selling metric screws by the pound.
> > A little ironic I think;  They should probably be selling them by
> > the Kilogram.  ;-)
> > That said; I doubt that they have 7mm screws if they are rare. But I
> > know they have 6 and 8 mm screws by the lb and for about the same
> > price as SAE sizes.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > On 5/7/2016 11:49 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> >> Greetings all;
> >>
> >> Trying to hold a 10" diamond saw blade yesterday, tight enough to
> >> keep it from slipping, I striped out the 6mm threads in my arbor.
> >>
> >> So today I bored it gently out to around .230" or 15/64's and
> >> re-tapped that to 7mm x1.0.  It wasn't until I was cleaning that up
> >> that I realized I had not seen any 7mm x1.0 screws on my side of
> >> the planet. So I assume that I may as well redo it for an 8mm screw
> >> tomorrow.
> >>
> >> But that will be loads of fun because with the 7mm tap in the
> >> chuck, I had to keep asking for a smaller peck per stroke because
> >> even in low gear, and the current limit in Jon's servo amp set to
> >> limit at about 15 amps, 150% drive for that motors nameplate, I was
> >> raising the divider that determined the additional stroke per peck
> >> until it was taking at least 7 or 8 pecks to tap one additional mm
> >> deeper.  Combine that with the tap I was using have a longer that
> >> normal nose taper, I hit the bottom of the hole and that locked the
> >> spindle so I'm standing there, noting the spindle had stopped and
> >> jon's servo amp was singing as it overload regulated.  Stopped
> >> lcnc, loosened the chuck to release the tap, ran the head up 6" or
> >> so, and unscrewed the tap from the hole. Threads look great, but I
> >> suspect there is not a 7mm cap screw about in these here parts. 
> >> Pure unobtainium comes to mind for the alloy. :)
> >>
> >> So, just out of curiosity, are 7mm bolts really that hard to find,
> >> or am I looking in the wrong local stores?
> >>
> >> NAPA perhaps?  Pricy there though.  Seems metric in the label makes
> >> them an additional $2 a bolt or nut.  Been there, done that. Should
> >> have gotten a free t-shirt for the price I paid for a 6 pack of 8mm
> >> self lockers. Bah.
> >>
> >> Home Depot, up in Bridgeport, 26 miles up the Super-Pot-Hole, aka
> >> I-79 has the best stock ATM, but I cannot recall seeing any 7's.
> >> 8's I can probably get locally at Tractor Supply.  In a decent
> >> alloy even.
> >>
> >> I also think my 8mm tap is a lot sharper than the black oxide
> >> finished 7mm is, so maybe I can get by driving it with the mill. 
> >> We'll find out tommorrow.
> >>
> >> Thanks everybody.
> >>
> >> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> >
> > 
> >-- Find and fix application performance issues faster with
> > Applications Manager Applications Manager provides deep performance
> > insights into multiple tiers of your business applications. It
> > resolves 

Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Gene Heskett]

On Monday 09 May 2016 09:06:39 Dave Cole wrote:

> Gene,
> Do you have any Rural King stores around you?

Never heard of them.  Where are you that you have one of those critters 
nearby?

> The local big Rural King is selling metric screws by the pound.
> A little ironic I think;  They should probably be selling them by the
> Kilogram.  ;-)

BWG and a Chuckle. But probably wise since the Jane & Joe Sixpack's here 
have never been able to make sense out of the metric system.  In the 
70's (IIRC) when some brands tried selling gasolene by the litre, no one 
understood that about 4 made about a gallon, & the pump handles stayed 
clean & the station owners starved until they threw those meters in the 
ditch and brought back the gallon calibrated ones. To them, it clearly 
was not a problem that needed fixed.  Had it been mandated for at least 
a year, us 'merican's would have coped or left it set where ever it ran 
out of gas...

> That said; I doubt that they have 7mm screws if they are rare. But I
> know they have 6 and 8 mm screws by the lb and for about the same
> price as SAE sizes.

I bought 2 ea 8mm1.25's in 25, 30, and 40mm lengths yesterday, and was 
about $8 poorer when shuffling back out the door leaning on my cane.  So 
by the pound or kg sales of metric has not yet arrived in West Virginia.

OTOH, what I can buy in Allen head caps are all the grade 12 equ to an 
SAE NC or NF bolt. I might pull the threads out of the hole, but have 
not put a stretch into one of them yet.  The 6mm failed by pulling the 
threads out of the hole. Easy since that arbor is home-made, out of 3/4" 
rod from TSC's stock iron bin, pretty soft stuff in real life. 1065? I 
don't think its even that hard.

If and when I ever get this block carved out and mounted in place of the 
compound on my 7x12, which will stiffen and help de-chatter the tool 
post mounting on my 7x12, I have some short lengths of mine shafting in 
1.25" diameters, and will make a newer one with a 3/4" spud & driving 
faces at least 1.125" in diameter.

But that stuff is seriously HARD steel.  I made the spools for the 
dampers out of it, and on that 7x12, it wasn't easy and used up a $150 
pack of chips for my turning tools making 4 of them. $pensive, but they 
did help, a lot.  Education costs money I guess, regardless of how you 
get it. :)

Thanks Dave.
[...]

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 

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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[andy pugh]

On 9 May 2016 at 03:13, Gene Heskett  wrote:
>
> Your 7mm holes, if 1.0 pitch, can probably be made into 8mm x1.0 holes
> for bolts you can get with the right drill &_ tap.

I have 8x1 taps for proximity sensor holes, but I would reckon on
having less luck finding M8x1 bolts than M7x1 bolts.


-- 
atp
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designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Rick Lair]

Hello Gene,

Not sure if it was mentioned,

Have you looked at Mcmaster Carr, I see they have M7x1 SHCS, various
lengths,

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=12c2urv

And you could have them next day,

Rick

On 05/09/2016 09:06 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
> Gene,
> Do you have any Rural King stores around you?
> The local big Rural King is selling metric screws by the pound.
> A little ironic I think;  They should probably be selling them by the 
> Kilogram.  ;-)
> That said; I doubt that they have 7mm screws if they are rare. But I 
> know they have 6 and 8 mm screws by the lb and for about the same price
> as SAE sizes.
>
> Dave
>
> On 5/7/2016 11:49 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>> Greetings all;
>>
>> Trying to hold a 10" diamond saw blade yesterday, tight enough to keep it
>> from slipping, I striped out the 6mm threads in my arbor.
>>
>> So today I bored it gently out to around .230" or 15/64's and re-tapped
>> that to 7mm x1.0.  It wasn't until I was cleaning that up that I
>> realized I had not seen any 7mm x1.0 screws on my side of the planet.
>> So I assume that I may as well redo it for an 8mm screw tomorrow.
>>
>> But that will be loads of fun because with the 7mm tap in the chuck, I
>> had to keep asking for a smaller peck per stroke because even in low
>> gear, and the current limit in Jon's servo amp set to limit at about 15
>> amps, 150% drive for that motors nameplate, I was raising the divider
>> that determined the additional stroke per peck until it was taking at
>> least 7 or 8 pecks to tap one additional mm deeper.  Combine that with
>> the tap I was using have a longer that normal nose taper, I hit the
>> bottom of the hole and that locked the spindle so I'm standing there,
>> noting the spindle had stopped and jon's servo amp was singing as it
>> overload regulated.  Stopped lcnc, loosened the chuck to release the
>> tap, ran the head up 6" or so, and unscrewed the tap from the hole.
>> Threads look great, but I suspect there is not a 7mm cap screw about in
>> these here parts.  Pure unobtainium comes to mind for the alloy. :)
>>
>> So, just out of curiosity, are 7mm bolts really that hard to find, or am
>> I looking in the wrong local stores?
>>
>> NAPA perhaps?  Pricy there though.  Seems metric in the label makes them
>> an additional $2 a bolt or nut.  Been there, done that. Should have
>> gotten a free t-shirt for the price I paid for a 6 pack of 8mm self
>> lockers. Bah.
>>
>> Home Depot, up in Bridgeport, 26 miles up the Super-Pot-Hole, aka I-79
>> has the best stock ATM, but I cannot recall seeing any 7's. 8's I can
>> probably get locally at Tractor Supply.  In a decent alloy even.
>>
>> I also think my 8mm tap is a lot sharper than the black oxide finished
>> 7mm is, so maybe I can get by driving it with the mill.  We'll find out
>> tommorrow.
>>
>> Thanks everybody.
>>
>> Cheers, Gene Heskett
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Thanks


Rick Lair
Superior Roll & Turning LLC
399 East Center Street
Petersburg MI, 49270
PH: 734-279-1831
FAX: 734-279-1166
www.superiorroll.com


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Re: [Emc-users] 7mmx1.0 decently hard cap screw, how scarce are they?

[Dave Cole]

Gene,
Do you have any Rural King stores around you?
The local big Rural King is selling metric screws by the pound.
A little ironic I think;  They should probably be selling them by the 
Kilogram.  ;-)
That said; I doubt that they have 7mm screws if they are rare. But I 
know they have 6 and 8 mm screws by the lb and for about the same price
as SAE sizes.

Dave

On 5/7/2016 11:49 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Greetings all;
>
> Trying to hold a 10" diamond saw blade yesterday, tight enough to keep it
> from slipping, I striped out the 6mm threads in my arbor.
>
> So today I bored it gently out to around .230" or 15/64's and re-tapped
> that to 7mm x1.0.  It wasn't until I was cleaning that up that I
> realized I had not seen any 7mm x1.0 screws on my side of the planet.
> So I assume that I may as well redo it for an 8mm screw tomorrow.
>
> But that will be loads of fun because with the 7mm tap in the chuck, I
> had to keep asking for a smaller peck per stroke because even in low
> gear, and the current limit in Jon's servo amp set to limit at about 15
> amps, 150% drive for that motors nameplate, I was raising the divider
> that determined the additional stroke per peck until it was taking at
> least 7 or 8 pecks to tap one additional mm deeper.  Combine that with
> the tap I was using have a longer that normal nose taper, I hit the
> bottom of the hole and that locked the spindle so I'm standing there,
> noting the spindle had stopped and jon's servo amp was singing as it
> overload regulated.  Stopped lcnc, loosened the chuck to release the
> tap, ran the head up 6" or so, and unscrewed the tap from the hole.
> Threads look great, but I suspect there is not a 7mm cap screw about in
> these here parts.  Pure unobtainium comes to mind for the alloy. :)
>
> So, just out of curiosity, are 7mm bolts really that hard to find, or am
> I looking in the wrong local stores?
>
> NAPA perhaps?  Pricy there though.  Seems metric in the label makes them
> an additional $2 a bolt or nut.  Been there, done that. Should have
> gotten a free t-shirt for the price I paid for a 6 pack of 8mm self
> lockers. Bah.
>
> Home Depot, up in Bridgeport, 26 miles up the Super-Pot-Hole, aka I-79
> has the best stock ATM, but I cannot recall seeing any 7's. 8's I can
> probably get locally at Tractor Supply.  In a decent alloy even.
>
> I also think my 8mm tap is a lot sharper than the black oxide finished
> 7mm is, so maybe I can get by driving it with the mill.  We'll find out
> tommorrow.
>
> Thanks everybody.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett

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