[Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread Viesturs Lācis
Hello!

A client is asking me for a small machine that would burn their logo in
wooden parts. They want to do it with a heated element that would be
actuated by pneumatical cylinder.

My only concern that I have not yet figured out is keeping down as much as
possible the amount of heat transfered to the rod of pneumatic cylinder.

I would like to ask, if somebody has ever done something similar and could
share some tips about best practices how to attach that heated stencil to
pneumatic cylinder.

My current thought is to take a piece of thin-walled pipe and machine the
wall in somewhat like a web (drill lots of holes or something similar).
That would reduce the crossection of material and thus the amount of heat
transfered to the rod of cylinder.

I would like not to reinvent the wheel, so will appreciate any advices.
Thanks in advance!

-- 
Viesturs

If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto
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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread andy pugh
On 24 June 2013 18:40, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 I would like to ask, if somebody has ever done something similar and could
 share some tips about best practices how to attach that heated stencil to
 pneumatic cylinder.

I have seen water-cooled blocks used for similar things. (maybe
air-cooled makes more sense in this case).

A lot of holes and end-plates is one way that it might be made.

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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread Marius Liebenberg
You could epoxy a piece of ceramic rod into two pieces of tube. One at 
both ends. One attached to the heated element and the other tube to the rod.

On 2013/06/24 07:40 PM, Viesturs La-cis wrote:
 Hello!

 A client is asking me for a small machine that would burn their logo in
 wooden parts. They want to do it with a heated element that would be
 actuated by pneumatical cylinder.

 My only concern that I have not yet figured out is keeping down as much as
 possible the amount of heat transfered to the rod of pneumatic cylinder.

 I would like to ask, if somebody has ever done something similar and could
 share some tips about best practices how to attach that heated stencil to
 pneumatic cylinder.

 My current thought is to take a piece of thin-walled pipe and machine the
 wall in somewhat like a web (drill lots of holes or something similar).
 That would reduce the crossection of material and thus the amount of heat
 transfered to the rod of cylinder.

 I would like not to reinvent the wheel, so will appreciate any advices.
 Thanks in advance!


-- 
Regards / Groete

Marius D. Liebenberg
MasterCut cc
Cel: +27 82 698 3251
Tel: +27 12 743 6064
Fax: +27 86 551 8029
Skype: marius_d.liebenberg



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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread Stuart Stevenson
possibility

http://www.morganthermalceramics.com/products/


On Mon, Jun 24, 2013 at 12:54 PM, Marius Liebenberg
mar...@mastercut.co.zawrote:

 You could epoxy a piece of ceramic rod into two pieces of tube. One at
 both ends. One attached to the heated element and the other tube to the
 rod.

 On 2013/06/24 07:40 PM, Viesturs La-cis wrote:
  Hello!
 
  A client is asking me for a small machine that would burn their logo in
  wooden parts. They want to do it with a heated element that would be
  actuated by pneumatical cylinder.
 
  My only concern that I have not yet figured out is keeping down as much
 as
  possible the amount of heat transfered to the rod of pneumatic cylinder.
 
  I would like to ask, if somebody has ever done something similar and
 could
  share some tips about best practices how to attach that heated stencil to
  pneumatic cylinder.
 
  My current thought is to take a piece of thin-walled pipe and machine the
  wall in somewhat like a web (drill lots of holes or something similar).
  That would reduce the crossection of material and thus the amount of heat
  transfered to the rod of cylinder.
 
  I would like not to reinvent the wheel, so will appreciate any advices.
  Thanks in advance!
 

 --
 Regards / Groete

 Marius D. Liebenberg
 MasterCut cc
 Cel: +27 82 698 3251
 Tel: +27 12 743 6064
 Fax: +27 86 551 8029
 Skype: marius_d.liebenberg



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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread TJoseph Powderly
i googled automatic branding irons, like for cattleone xmpl is:
http://www.durable-tech.com/marking/branding-irons/semi-automated-
branding-iron/


www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCRae5mRoRE‎
Head em up (move em up) Move em on (head em up) Rawhide

tjtr33 tomp

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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread andy pugh
On 24 June 2013 18:40, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 I would like not to reinvent the wheel, so will appreciate any advices.

I think the search term would be thermal break though that is mainly
finding me structural things like:
http://www.farrat.com/tbn100-47.html

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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread TJoseph Powderly
On 06/24/2013 12:47 PM, andy pugh wrote:
 On 24 June 2013 18:40, Viesturs Lācis viesturs.la...@gmail.com wrote:

 I would like to ask, if somebody has ever done something similar and could
 share some tips about best practices how to attach that heated stencil to
 pneumatic cylinder.

 I have seen water-cooled blocks used for similar things. (maybe
 air-cooled makes more sense in this case).

 A lot of holes and end-plates is one way that it might be made.

old school heavy chisel point soldering iron, the handle you held onto 
doenst get hot so the heat dissapation is handled.
like this
http://tooltronic.com/products/soldering-industrial/hexacon-p300-300watt-heavy-duty-soldering-iron/

  the tip could be removed ( single set screw thru side ) and a new 
'tip' which is a copper
Tee ( shank goes into soldering iron, perpendicular end has logo on face )

custom branding ends here:
http://goo.gl/mrFYI

Your automation can hold the handle end ( no heat ) the front is the 
branding logo.

FWIW

tjtr33

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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread John Kasunich
I agree with the thin-walled tube approach.

Use stainless steel. Stainless conducts 1/3 as much
heat as regular steel, and 1/10 as much as aluminum.

There is a table of thermal conductivities at
http://www.engineersedge.com/properties_of_metals.htm

There are a few materials in that list that are even lower,
than stainless, but probably much harder to obtain.

A lot will depend on the available space.  The heat transfer
is proportional to diameter times wall thickness divided by
length.  So you want as thin-walled as possible without
buckling, just large enough diameter to handle the mechanical
load, and as long possible in the available space.

I would avoid putting holes in it - instead I would go for the
thinnest wall I could get that can handle the required forces.
Holes would just make it weaker and thus you would
have to use thicker material to make up the difference.

For attachment to a thin walled tube, press a lathe turned
plug into it.  That avoids stress concentrations from holes
or other machined features, and so you don't have to
oversize the tube.  You want it to be just strong enough
to do the job - extra metal just means more heat transfer.

McMaster Carr won't be very useful in Europe, but it does
give a feel for what is readily available.  They have alloy 
304 and 316 stainless tube with a 0.02 (0.508mm) wall
in diameters up to 5/8 (15.9mm) and alloy 321 up to 2
(50.8mm).  For example, part number 6622K15.

Actually, you could do even better with several small
tubes.  Suppose the stamping tool is a 1 x 2 rectangle.

You could use a 1 diameter x 0.020 wall tube, with a
cross section of 0.0628 square inches.

Or, you could also use four smaller tubes at the corners.
McMaster sells part number 6100K221, which is 304
stainless, 1/4 diameter tube with a wall thickness
of only 0.005.  That reduces the cross sectional area to
0.00397 square inches  per tube, 0.0157 square inches
total.


On Mon, Jun 24, 2013, at 01:40 PM, Viesturs Lācis wrote:
 Hello!
 
 A client is asking me for a small machine that would burn their logo in
 wooden parts. They want to do it with a heated element that would be
 actuated by pneumatical cylinder.
 
 My only concern that I have not yet figured out is keeping down as much as
 possible the amount of heat transfered to the rod of pneumatic cylinder.
 
 I would like to ask, if somebody has ever done something similar and could
 share some tips about best practices how to attach that heated stencil to
 pneumatic cylinder.
 
 My current thought is to take a piece of thin-walled pipe and machine the
 wall in somewhat like a web (drill lots of holes or something similar).
 That would reduce the crossection of material and thus the amount of heat
 transfered to the rod of cylinder.
 
 I would like not to reinvent the wheel, so will appreciate any advices.
 Thanks in advance!
 
 -- 
 Viesturs
-- 
  John Kasunich
  jmkasun...@fastmail.fm

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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread Marius Liebenberg
Certain compounds are but not all. You want a very porous one. You will 
get heat transfer but not a lot and it depends on how long you make the 
rod. Very hard compound will conduct a lot of heat.

On 2013/06/24 08:17 PM, Viesturs La-cis wrote:
 2013/6/24 Marius Liebenberg mar...@mastercut.co.za

 You could epoxy a piece of ceramic rod into two pieces of tube. One at
 both ends. One attached to the heated element and the other tube to the
 rod.

 Do I understand correctly that the idea is that ceramics are bad at heat
 conductivity?


-- 
Regards / Groete

Marius D. Liebenberg
MasterCut cc
Cel: +27 82 698 3251
Tel: +27 12 743 6064
Fax: +27 86 551 8029
Skype: marius_d.liebenberg



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Re: [Emc-users] Heat dissipation?

2013-06-24 Thread Gregg Eshelman
 On 2013/06/24 07:40 PM, Viesturs La-cis wrote:
  Hello!
 
  A client is asking me for a small machine that would
 burn their logo in
  wooden parts. They want to do it with a heated element
 that would be
  actuated by pneumatical cylinder.

In other words they want a small, electrically heated, branding iron on the end 
of a pneumatic cylinder. Keep it simple with an insulator made of PEEK. Should 
be strong enough to mount the heated part. A finned heat sink on the back of 
the heated part, with a solid boss in the center for the mounting, and a small 
fan blowing across the heat sink when retracted, should keep the heat from 
going to the cylinder.

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