On Monday 22 November 2021 16:35:37 John Dammeyer wrote:
> Hi Mathew,
> I want to be able to swap easily and quickly between R8 and TTS.
> Here's a selection of some of the tooling.
>
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/ToolSelection.jpg
>
I've quite a bit more than that John but not the variety.
And therein lies the problem. For your NMBT-30 quick change tooling you could
just as easily set up wave washers and just press and release the draw bar as
is done on so many of those instead of turning into the holder itself. But it
only requires one or two turns before that large cone is no
Maybe I didn't fully answer your question. After the tool drops out. If the
button is held the impact driver will just keep spinning like an unloaded
impact wrench.
John
On Mon, Nov 22, 2021, 5:57 PM John Figie wrote:
> When the load or unload button is pressed the impact driver first moves
>
Instead of a drawbar with a hex end you could use the kind with a spline
end like the ones that Kurt sells for their power drawbar. My Bridgeport
came with a Kurt power drawbar. I have had it since around 2003. Still
using the same drawbar. The socket looks kind of like a torx socket - maybe
it is
So far I'm well under the $974 of the R8 version although if I had to pay
retail for the GIM controller I'm using then I'd be well over that. So far I
think I'm at about $200 Cdn. plus I'm using one of the first prototype GIMs I
build almost 10 years ago.
On Monday 22 November 2021 17:30:08 John Figie wrote:
> Instead of a drawbar with a hex end you could use the kind with a
> spline end like the ones that Kurt sells for their power drawbar. My
> Bridgeport came with a Kurt power drawbar. I have had it since around
> 2003. Still using the same
When the load or unload button is pressed the impact driver first moves
down and then starts impacting for as long as the button is pressed. I only
let it impact for about 1 or 2 seconds.
On Mon, Nov 22, 2021, 5:39 PM John Dammeyer wrote:
> So far I'm well under the $974 of the R8 version
On Tue, 23 Nov 2021 at 01:05, John Dammeyer wrote:
> Likely why the set screw works loose after a number of cycles.
I am surprised that the air wrench doesn't have the usual ball-detente
to retain the socket.
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed
On Monday 22 November 2021 02:48:36 John Dammeyer wrote:
> > I assume you have a similar, fixed position spindle lock? I had to
> > make mine.
>
> Nope. As a friend said the other day when I asked if he'd found a
> lock on his... "I use a big hammer on the supplied wrench to tighten
> or loosen
> From: dave engvall [mailto:dengv...@charter.net]
> On 11/21/21 9:24 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
> > Is there a way to tell the spindle to turn until it finds the index and
> > stop so it's always stopping at the exact same spot? Like
> decelerate to 0.5 rev per second (30 RPM) or slower and
What about a custom draw bar with an Andy Pugh style air cylinder release?
Seems simpler to engineer the mechanism than do all this control. Just have a
drawbar that’s normally retracted with a flange. Engage the flange with a
mechanism on an air cylinder to release.
On Mon, 22 Nov 2021 at 08:03, John Dammeyer wrote:
> One still has to line up the socket to the hex head of the drawbar. And
> since it can be at any position relative to the spindle the sensing has to
> happen against the hex head. Rotate spindle until hex head is at a known
> position.
You probably don't need more than 1 bar on the lifting air cylinder, up or
down. No need to force it down.
So let it down, then if you can give the spindle a 1RPM burst to let the
nut slip over.
And have a switch on driver Z to know if it's down over the nut.
You could also stop the spindle and
On Mon, 22 Nov 2021 at 05:23, John Dammeyer wrote:
> As it is the nut is getting pretty trashed so until the 12 point socket
> arrives I think this part of the project is on hold.
Is it time to cut your losses and go with a Bellville washer stack?
It works for Tormach:
How about an eddy current brake that uses a thick copper washer, a disk with
some strong magnets, and use a small air cylinder to push the copper washer
away from the magnets and springs to pull or push it close to the magnets when
the air is cut off so the wrench stops fast.
Automatic brake
On Sun, 21 Nov 2021 at 07:45, John Dammeyer wrote:
>
> I'd like to be able to limit the number of turns to 2.
OK, here is a possible arrangement that will fit in the existing packaging.
Press a sleeve onto the outside of the socket with a spiral groove
machined into it (actually two grooves, a
On Monday 22 November 2021 07:01:27 Roland Jollivet wrote:
> You probably don't need more than 1 bar on the lifting air cylinder,
> up or down. No need to force it down.
> So let it down, then if you can give the spindle a 1RPM burst to let
> the nut slip over.
> And have a switch on driver Z to
First of all. Way cool video. Thanks for that link. Didn't even speed
through it.
A pull stud on R8 tools. Interesting concept. Not sure there's room inside
the spindle for that.
John
> -Original Message-
> From: Matthew Herd [mailto:herd.m...@gmail.com]
> Sent: November-22-21
Andy
If I was only running TTS or something with a pull stud like yours that would
be a no brainer.
However I want the ability to use both TTS (no more than two turns either
direction) and R8 (engaged thread number of turns to release and capture).
The idea of tap on the button to force two
The problem is the air wrench turns freely unlike the electric impact wrenches.
So if it even just drops on the wrong point it then stays there and tracks the
spindle turning. Been there. Tried that.
John
> -Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
>
> From: Sam Sokolik [mailto:samco...@gmail.com]
>
> Can you backdrive the impact wrench? Keep it engaged?
>
At the moment the loudest part of my system is the splined spindle shaft
rattling in the splined pulley drive. Especially with light cuts or not
engaged. Really quite annoying. Once
It's the lowering of the wrench that I don't have a lot of control on. It's
pushed down hard enough to keep the draw bar on top of the spindle so as it
turns it pushes the sometimes a bit stiff R8 all the way down and out. If it's
allow to move upwards (or I haven't locked the quill) then the
Hi John,
You don’t need pull studs on the R-8 collets, just thread the draw bar into the
collet. Either until it stops or loctite the draw bar at the right depth. Then
use a Belleville washer and air cylinder setup like Andy’s.
Matt
> On Nov 22, 2021, at 1:32 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
>
>
On Monday 22 November 2021 07:07:45 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
> How about an eddy current brake that uses a thick copper washer, a
> disk with some strong magnets, and use a small air cylinder to push
> the copper washer away from the magnets and springs to pull or push it
> close to
Apparently charter has blocked me as a spammer, I am not getting answers
to my msgs sent since yesterday afternoon.
Check your mail at charter with a browser, looking in the spam folder, if
I'm in there, spank em.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of
Can you backdrive the impact wrench? Keep it engaged?
On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 11:45 AM John Dammeyer
wrote:
> Thanks Roland,
> What I've found is that once the socket has reached that midpoint between
> flats it sticks there. Rounding off the edges of the inside didn't fix it
> but did help.
Thanks Roland,
What I've found is that once the socket has reached that midpoint between flats
it sticks there. Rounding off the edges of the inside didn't fix it but did
help. I can even shut off the air so I can pull it down slowly against the
return spring pressure and turn the spindle
Hi Mathew,
I want to be able to swap easily and quickly between R8 and TTS. Here's a
selection of some of the tooling.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/ToolSelection.jpg
There's a full set of R8 collets of course. The spring loaded Tap Holder has
a 3/4" shank so it really just needs a TTS
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