I would /not/ buy any $20-50 class spot welder. If you do, you will need to
modify it yourself to be "usable". I bought a similar model, tested it, and
it blew up on setting 3 out of 7:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJLoYJSm0E0 FYI the fix for this is
apparently to separate the MOSFET/control
A Leaf would be a way more cost effective candidate for conversion.
Apparently the Mirai has a slightly more powerful motor (113kW vs. 80-90kW)
but Leafs can be found for $5k or less with a shot battery (if you're
considering doing your own battery anyways).
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I think what you're looking for is the Lightyear One. https://lightyear.one/
A modern, amazingly efficient EV, with solar roof. But since it's so niche,
as described before, it will cost you around $170k :)
As for the original question of "faking out EV to accept solar input while
driving" the
Another very important note; diodes don't drop voltage the same at all
current levels. Meaning; they will NOT stop your 4.5V panel from
overcharging your battery to 4.5V if you don't have a dedicated charging IC.
If you want to charge your battery to an unusual voltage, I highly recommend
using
Yes, more safety can't hurt (especially the fail-safe, or nearly fail-safe
kind). I would highly recommend going with a well known and reliable BMS
system though, and not try and design your own. There are hundreds available
on the market already (DIY versions and marketed versions).
Did you
Well you shouldn't need to use the disconnects; but yes, those amperage
levels are used commonly in EVs of course. EV West has pretty good prices
for stuff like this (service disconnect, rated for max current your system
would see):
You got me stumped. What application do you need only 85WH at 6.6kW for?
That's a discharge period of 46 seconds if I have my math right...
Do you truly need 240VDC for this application also? What about using the
first stage of a 6.6kW 240VAC inverter, which would produce a high voltage,
high
Let's keep the discussion in the context of the original ask too. A 50C(!!)
battery is a very different beast than a laptop or a cell phone that
discharges over the period of a few hours. Honestly, I think this is a
rather bad idea. Even high performance EVs don't slam batteries that hard.
Here's
I kinda missed this article the first time around, then got to reading the
actual paper direct (link here:
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/est2.141). Their supposed
experience of the 18650 battery splitting open right down the side is
absolutely outrageous. I spoke with some
I have a very small PEM (proton exchange membrane) fuel cell from a hydrogen
fuel cell science kit I got when I was much younger. I wonder if it is any
more efficient at converting water/electricity into H2/O2. You could
theoretically just capture the H2 it produces, then feed it back to the PEM
There was actually a recent product announcement that was basically this:
https://electrek.co/2020/01/06/wallbox-quasar-tesla-nissan/
It's pretty expensive, but if you consider it as an alternative to Tesla
Powerwall (or other competitive devices) it's a fairly good deal.
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Second life use is definitely going strong, almost all EV makers have
announced or demonstrated stationary storage use of old EV batteries.
However raw materials recycling is still in its infancy and probably not
done at large scale yet, if at all.
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The casual discussion of dealing with direct connection to the HV battery
scares me a bit. I get that you're all DIY EV enthusiasts with experience
dealing with high voltage, high power, but I'd highly recommend staying away
from any direct connections to the HV battery. I like the idea of the low
Also being misused for oil pipelines. Keystone and DAPL for instance.
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Does this article also ignore that there will be scaling efficiencies for
even the raw material procurement/mining? Mines and foundries selling
materials for Li-Ion batteries would certainly want to scale to meet the
larger demand, and will probably find cheaper ways to make/procure
materials,
Who did you use to ship cells overseas by boat? I've got a coworker who will
be needing to ship an e-skateboard battery (>300WH) back to Australia.
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One more thing to consider is if you're feeding the on board charger DC,
you're putting all the current (albeit constant, not half-sine pulsed)
through 1 pair of diodes when normally both pairs would split the load. This
may cause heating/reliability issues long term if it wasn't designed with
Minor correction, your 3 year old Leaf is only 30kWH max (with less actually
usable, limited by on-board BMS). It would only take a bit of clever reverse
engineering to make use of ChaDeMo capable Leafs by controlling the
contactor to close and feeding a high voltage solar grid tie inverter (I
I'm the one who bought the 5 bars left Leaf Cor mentioned a few messages ago.
It had ~30 miles of range when driven conservatively at that point, after a
pack replacement to a 2013 with ~90% left, I get 50-60 miles at 80% charge
and 60-70 with full charge. I rarely get more than 4.2 mi/kWH because
One good idea that was mentioned by the Now You Know Youtube channel was to
use waste energy from regenerative braking to heat the battery (e.g. instead
of dumping power into the battery which is usually limited by either high
SoC or low battery temperature, or just battery charge rate limit, dump
Those $100 listings as others have mentioned are used cells. You'll find that
based on their tested capacity they're not a very good deal also.
As I mentioned, the market rate is about $180/kWH for new cells, sometimes
you can find a better deal on new old stock or bulk buys. I try and maintain
a
Where are you finding cells for $1 each? Going rate for 18650s (new) is
$180/kWH or so, which for a typical 2.6AH cell would be $1.73.
Li-Ion (and related sub-chemistries, e.g. NMC, LMO (uncommon), LCO, etc.)
are 3.7V, and are higher energy density but less "safe".
LiFePO4 is 3.2V, and is
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