I'm pretty sure terminal resistance is supposed to be 0.03 ohms so a normal
ohmmeter won't tell you much... How about spin the motor in neutral with a
(fused) 12V battery? Any signs of arcing on the commutator?
-Ben
On Dec 27, 2016, at 1:13 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
>
Amen, Lee. If quiet cars are truly the problem, the requirement should be
universal. Singling out EV's certainly has the appearance - even if not the
intent - of hostility and intentionally limiting their appeal. I tend to
believe the current action is merely a case of narrow-mindedness, but
On Jan 20, 2016, at 11:13 AM, Bill Dube via EV wrote:
> If you are planning on plugging in an EV daily into a 120 volt outlet, you
> would likely want to eventually change it out for a "hospital grade" type
> receptacle. These are really designed to take constant, daily,
Indeed - the Bolt display appears to me to indicate how the energy has been
spent in an almost pie chart (pink, purple, green). The pink icon (arrow)
suggests driving energy, the purple icon (snowflake) suggests climate control
and the green (battery) I guess might be 12V. If my reading is
Hi Jay,
I think your approach is good. Some chargers (Elcon, at least) let your BMS
throttle charge current with an external voltage signal. If your charger
supports this, you could try wiring up a comparator and a flip-flop to latch
the signal at 0A when you hit your target voltage at 30A.
I agree we should incentivize low-pollution vehicles, but this is is actually a
punitive road use fee. Georgia's gas tax is $.075/gallon. If you drive 16k
miles/year (US average) at 22MPG (rough average accounting for older cars),
you're paying about $55 toward road maintenance. The $300 EV
Really? I was pretty sure the title of first megawatt all-electric race car
went to the Maniac Mazda over a decade ago...
-Ben
On Apr 1, 2015, at 9:50 PM, Ben Goren via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
Seems reasonably legit. Nothing about it seems unreasonable.
Lots of great info on this thread! I was actually revisiting the literature on
this recently myself. Although my 914 is garaged for the winter, it happens to
be at home this year (with its transmission in pieces), and I wanted to top off
the battery in case we lost power in all the crazy
A lot of charities and even public radio stations accept old cars as donations.
Shop around to see if your car might be of value to one of them.
-Ben
On Jan 13, 2015, at 8:04 PM, Bill Dennis via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
I didn't have any takers on my Starter EV, Just Add Batteries offer.
I run a 9 ADC from a 53-cell LiFePO4 pack (170V nominal); I've only put about
5000 miles on the car, but no issues so far. That said, I've had issues with
rotor balance, so I tend to operate at lower RPM's, which means I'm limiting
the DC voltage across the motor.
-Ben
On Jan 9, 2015, at
Hi Bruce,
First, let me say that I enjoy your newswires and appreciate all the effort you
put into the EV community.
...but I really don't think some idiot crashing a Tesla is list-worthy news.
-Ben
On Dec 3, 2014, at 4:37 AM, brucedp5 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
I steer clear anyway. They can scratch the heck out of your finish. And
windows.
-Ben
On Oct 13, 2014, at 3:43 AM, brucedp5 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
http://scholarsandrogues.com/2014/10/06/leaf-owners-beware-the-gas-station-car-wash-renewable-journal-for-1062014/
Leaf owners –
I would think overhead catenary lines would actually be cheaper, and one could
do that study without building a prototype...
On Aug 15, 2014, at 3:06 AM, Martin WINLOW via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
For your hybrid application, I'd go with the AC. One word: regen -- without
it to recharge the battery, hybrid mode is of little benefit; better to just
disengage the motor altogether.
I get decent performance out of my Porsche 914 with a single 9 DC motor in 3rd
gear (although it tops out
Too bad A123 went under. Their cells would have been PERFECT.
You could consider the EnerDel high-power modules carried by evolve electrics
(and possibly others, but I haven't seen them elsewhere). They're more
expensive than CALB/Thundersky but better suited to your application. 32Ah/44V
People talk in amp-hours because it's easy and/or they're being sloppy.
Batteries are sold in standardized packages (1 cell @ 3.6V for lithium, 3 or 6
cells at 6V or 12V for lead) at which amp-hours is the metric used to
differentiate different capacities. But when you build a big series
I know it's not a 'true' EV, but definitely don't forget the noble Chevy Volt.
At just $34k before tax credit, it provides decent EV range (unlike the other
PIH), decent performance, a coddled battery that will last forever, actual back
seat and trunk space (unlike the puny Leaf), and
, May 24, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Ben Apollonio via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:
On May 23, 2014, at 9:06 PM, Michael Ross michael.e.r...@gmail.com wrote:
No, there is no economy of scale with the low numbers they are building.
That is a fact.
Not on the electric drivetrain
How exactly is it that Fiat can't produce a teensy car with a tiny battery for
less than $46k when small (i.e. lacking economies of scale) upstart Tesla is
able to rake in 25% gross margins on a massive, high-performance luxury car
with 3x the battery that starts at 70k (which puts the
You say that like it's past tense! I still have this on my electric Porsche
914, though only for lack of funds/time...
-Ben
On May 13, 2014, at 7:08 PM, Jan Steinman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
From: Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
It had another training system - where you
You, sir, have just described the battery gauge Tesla uses (though the display
is a tad fancier). Except they added tick marks every 10% for extra
convenience.
I find the 'ignorant masses' are capable of learning. They may not (and very
likely won't) fully understand what a kilowatt-hour is,
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