At 04:11 PM 7/04/01 +, you wrote:
Jeremy
Please take a real sharp slide ( glassles) and select the auto focus in
the middle of the picture and scan the slide ( standard mode)
Move the auto focus setting out from the middle against the side of the
picture and scan.
Compare the information
"Mikael Risedal" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
VueScan are (also in my opinion for beginners) but if you are concern to
learn how to scan pictures try a "pro software" and see who much
more
you can get out from your negative or slides.
That's a big assumption about how much money people
Re: Flame War
How many list members does it take to change a light bulb???
Answer: 578.
1 to change the light bulb and post to the list that the light bulb has been changed.
14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could
have
been changed differently.
"Steve Greenbank" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
use photoshop with the digicam so now PS can do most operatioons with 48
bit
images why should I bother to learn how to process using the scanner
software ? (I use mostly slides - colour cast removal from negs could be
tricky in PS).
Hm, but Vuescan
Silverfast has options for raw data 10. 12 bit
The new update 5.2 are (in my opinion) improved in colors
(not so red , more neutral) and are smother in shadows (more details) then
before.
Mikael Risedal
--
From: "Steve Greenbank" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL
I didn't realized that Silverfast cost so much in USA when Im discussing
different scanner software.
In Sweden we are used that the software comes free with the scanner
(Polaroid SS4000 and Nikon LS2000).
I understand that some of you are reacting of the price.
But in the end: Its a very good
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 09:16:54 +0930
From: "Mark T." [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: filmscanners: Review of the Nikon CoolScan 4000
At 04:11 PM 7/04/01 +, you wrote:
Jeremy
Please take a real sharp slide ( glassles) and select the auto focus in
the middle of the picture and scan the slide
Mikael Risedal wrote:
Silverfast has options for raw data 10. 12 bit
The new update 5.2 are (in my opinion) improved in colors
(not so red , more neutral) and are smother in shadows (more details) then
before.
Mikael Risedal
Is it known whether Silverfast will support the LS 4000 ED?
I hate to recomend the old Nikon LS3510AF to anybody, because it's
really a terrible scanner from the dark days. But you can live with some
reduced image quality. They used to cost about $5000, but you can get
them in good shape for under $300 US now. Shows how worthless they are
in these
I, m new to this site so if this has been covered already, I apologized. My
scanner is the Polaroid Sprintscan 4000 with Insight. I use Photoshop 5.0. I
would like to produce high quality 11x17 inch prints on my Epson 1200
printer. My question is...should I use the Insight software for my
Try and do as much processing as you can in Photoshop. You'll have much
more control and be able to save at various stages. If you choose not to,
never sharpen the image during the scan. That should be the last thing you
do after manipulating in Photoshop. And then it should be "unsharp mask".
I have just done some new samples using the latest versions of Vuescan, Scan
Wizard Pro and Silverfast and a new webpage to go with them. All the samples
use Adobe RGB (1998) colour space.
I have noticed that IE5.5 seems to display some of the JPEGs poorly so for a
proper comparison you may have
On Sat, 7 Apr 2001 12:55:37 +0400, Jeremy Nicholl wrote:
You want the best possible quality.
However, time is also of the essence, so you are prepared to make
minimal trade-offs in absolute quality in order to increase
production throughput.
Fortunately, that rich uncle you never liked just
On Sat, 7 Apr 2001 06:40:38 -0500 Tom Scales ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
wrote:
Shoot, I've never seen one, but it seems like the Nikon 4000 ED with the
optional slide feeder would be perfect. 36 shots at a time.
Doubtful - it will be extremely slow compared to bulk scanning stations
which process
On Sat, 07 Apr 2001 22:47:18 Mikael Risedal ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote:
I cant understand why people are discussion a software like VueScan so
much in this group. .If you are trying to learn how to scan a picture
from negative or slides the only good software in my opinions are
Remove filmscanners
_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
On Sat, 7 Apr 2001 12:55:37 +0400 Jeremy Nicholl ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
wrote:
Fortunately, that rich uncle you never liked just croaked, and in a
final moment of senility, he's left his entire ill-gotten gains to
you, so money is no object.
I suggest you look at pro-lab-type scanning
PLEASE don't post in HTML here, set your mail client to post in plain
text.
HTML cannot be read by many mail clients, and the result is gibberish for
those readers.
It also massively wastes bandwidth and disk space, and many recipients
will be paying ISP and/or telco charges to download the
On Sat, 07 Apr 2001 15:07:11 +0930 Mark T. ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
wrote:
Eeek. I thought grain-aliasing and film resolution was covered in
either lesson 1 or 2 when you do Filmscanning 101..! :)
When I first came across this, and began to suspect it was an aliasing
phenomenon, I was unable
On Fri, 6 Apr 2001 12:14:44 -0700 (PDT) Terry Carroll ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
wrote:
As Tony mentioned, Kodak represents on its website that the silver+gold
Ultima lasts up to 6 times longer than silver-only discs they've been
selling.
I note that the text for gold ones say "up to 12 times
If you are trying to learn how to scan a picture from
negative or slides the only good software in my opinions are Silverfast
That is your opinion; but obviously, the people you are referring to do not
share your opinion and do think that the software is worth discussing.
-Original
I agree with Larry... I use a Minolta scanner... I use PhotoShop 6 (used to use
5.5.) and use its import TWAIN to bring up my Minolta scan software, which I use
to obtain a 16 bit linear scan, thus bringing a basically raw scan into PShop...
There I do my work, saving the image at various key
IMHO
(as I use the SprintScan and do 11X17 prints)
Just
do the basic scan with Insight. Use all the power of Photoshop to prepare the
image for printing.
I
recommend not doing your sharpening until you are just ready to print. I never
sharpen the permanent archived version of the file.
- Original Message -
From: Lynn Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 3:58 AM
Subject: filmscanners: Noise (was: Printing A3 from a 2700dpi scan
I'm less interested in the "why's" of the problem than in a means of
dealing
with it. After all,
And, of course, this comedic story is an old one that has been circulating
the internet for years. It seems to capture the character of all public
internet interactions with good natured satire; but does little to prevent
the problem. :-) But thanks for sharing old jokes.
-Original
I agree with the others that it is best to do just the basic scan, setting
white and black points and color masking for negatives, in Insight and then
using Photoshop for all corrections and adjustments. The features and
methods you can use in Photoshop far exceed those in Insight, and the
- Original Message -
From: "Tony Sleep" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2001 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: filmscanners: film scanner software
- SilverFast : designed for heavy-duty production use, without any
requirement for Photoshop manipulation. If you
VueScan are (also in my opinion for beginners) but if you are concern to
learn how to scan pictures try a "pro software" and see who much more you
can get out from your negative or slides.
Mikael Risedal
Lund
Sweden
Mikael, your point is (and should be) well taken. But this is also a little
like
At 02:36 PM 8/04/01 -0700, Paul wrote:
Please take a real sharp slide ( glassles)..
..
Don't tell me that you not can se a big difference in the sharpness
I have done this test on 2 different ED 4000 and same results...
..
Can I just add to this - *please* make sure that the test slide is a
Tony,
You're to be commended for bringing this problem to our attention.
I've mulled it over a bit and come to some conclusions. I could be
wrong however, so with that in mind, here are my opinions.
It seems to me from eyeball guessing that my LS-30 is resolving grain
in 100 ISO films at
Dave wrote:
It seems to me from eyeball guessing that my LS-30 is resolving grain
in 100 ISO films at roughly 40-80% distortion, which looks pretty bad
on the monitor at 100% view. 800 speed color neg film does much
better at what I would guess to be roughly 25% distortion.
I presume you're
I just resubscribed to the list today after months of ISP problems. Would
someone please forward (off list) to me the Coolscan 4000 review mentioned
in this thread or point me to an archive where I can find it?
Thanks,
Pat
- Original Message -
From: "Dave King" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dave: Please explain what process you are using to get from negs or trans
to a 24x36 ( I assume photographic) print? What scan DPI, print DPI, print
process, etc.
Thanks.
Mike M.
Dave King wrote:
Tony,
You're to be commended for bringing this problem to our attention.
I've mulled it over a
Rob wrote:
Dave wrote:
It seems to me from eyeball guessing that my LS-30 is resolving
grain
in 100 ISO films at roughly 40-80% distortion, which looks pretty
bad
on the monitor at 100% view. 800 speed color neg film does much
better at what I would guess to be roughly 25% distortion.
I
I scan at max res on a Nikon LS-30 (2700), bi-cubic interpolate in one
step up to live area size, 20" wide letting length fall (about 30"),
never crop for the big prints, and print on Crane Mueso with spectro
profiled Epson 7000 running Generations Enhanced ink at the minimum
dpi for good
Copy of Larry's message:
"Review of the new Nikon CoolScan 4000 at the Imaging Resource Newsletter:
http://www.imaging-resource.com/IRNEWS/
***
Larry Berman"
Maris
- Original Message -
From: "Pat Perez" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
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