Tony,
Years ago, when I and my pals were on CIX, ISTR a
concise dictionary of all the common and many rare mailing
list acronyms. You haven't seen it anywhere lately, have
you?
I fear this ancient language may have become extinct like
Anglo-Saxon and Latin, pushed out by modernisms such as
([EMAIL PROTECTED]).
Good luck,
Alan Tyson
- Original Message -
From: PC [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 7:23 PM
Subject: filmscanners: Distribution SW
I'm looking for a way to place images on a CD ROM along
with whatever
else would be needed
Every few months I am persuaded to try again to calibrate my
monitor, using the various tools from an assortment of
websites.
My monitor (Taxan Ergovision 735 TCO99) has software to
adjust its RGB curves individually to get the various
dithering patterns to match. The results from the various
djustments.
What do all you experts out there think?
Alan Tyson
This technique is totally unnecessary with scanning Alan.
It doesn't do anything that you can't do better with the
curves or
levels in Photoshop.
Yes, true, if it's a simple adjustment mask across the whole
image, but if it operates selectively on patches (cleverly
identified somehow) of
Suggestions for a gentle (and low cost) introduction to film
scanning...
While your dad learns about digital imaging, any old flatbed
will do, on which he should scan his old prints (6x4 or
bigger) to start with, and make some enlargements. He's
likely to be pleased with the results, unless he's
Michael,
All this stuff about CD-R durability is speculation at the
moment, sometimes well-informed, and sometimes ill-informed.
I'd give your support person's views a lot of weight if I
knew he'd properly researched the field, and had some data
or reasoning to back his judgement (rather than
Tim,
You could always peel off the label and try again, if a
disk doesn't read correctly. Surely an imbalance will show
immediately. Everyone should test their CD-Rs after writing
them, preferably in another drive. That 's a different issue
from the longevity of the data.
Have your
Pete,
Do you reckon this method will work even when, as on the
Scanwit, the exposure given by the scanner for each raw scan
will vary from frame to frame?
If I want to try this method, should I work on each of the
R,G,B histograms separately, and set the B W points to the
same value, or what?
Alan,
Don't you find that the colour balance is markedly altered
when you crop the preview and then scan it? I find that my
principal subject, somewhere inside the frame, is often more
colourful than its surroundings.
I find this on my own Scanwit. For this reason I alter the
'Crop|Buffer%'
But do some of you have the idea to switch to digital for
everyday
photography? That would seem strange to me.
Yes, I do, as and when I can afford digital 3600x2400 pixel
frames, as I get from my scanner (probably in a decade or
so), because of..
1. immediacy of seeing a preview, so I can
And we should also, perhaps, remember that different
persons' colour perceptions (Mk1 eyeball + brain software)
may differ.
For example, my own blue sensitivity or perception clearly
differs from the rest of family, because they are wont to
say, on nice sunny days, "look at that beautiful blue
I've been considering doing my own E6 processing for some
time, for all the reasons mentioned in this thread. I did my
own E6 for many years, using several different chemistries,
and rudimentary equipment, including several thermometers.
I'm a retired chemist, so I could do with the experimental
stir in about an
ounce of boiling water from a measuring cup every 30-60
seconds,
as needed. Crude but fairly effective. I can keep the
temperature
between 99.5 and 100.5 for three minutes without
difficulty.
Thanks very much for the hints info. That's the sort of
thing I did for
"Liberty is precious; so precious it must be rationed."
[Bakunin (a Russian revolutionary)]
This seems a good motto for OT posters and list
administrators.
Alan T
- Original Message -
From: Arthur Entlich [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 24,
One small addition..If you run the shower a short time
before you dry
your film, the dust seems to get stuck down, and you have
even less of a
problem,
I remember seeing this suggested many years ago, and it did
seem to work for my film drying operations. I had little
trouble with negs
Paint Shop Pro 7, and probably other programs, have
'geometric effects' which will allow you to stretch the
image in one dimension. In PSP7 it's called horizontal and
vertical perspective.
I've used it successfully when I photographed a painting
propped against a wall, and stupidly failed to get
I've a lot to say about this. Those here last June may
remember an 'animated discussion' G. I've mailed Michael
Tim off-list. If anyone else is interested drop me a private
message.
Alan T
- Original Message -
From: Michael Wilkinson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
This is what our esteemed Tony's web site said when I saved
it last on 11th October
PhotoCD is a cross-platform format, and film sizes from
APS to 5x4" may be scanned in a variety of resolutions from
128 x 192 pixels (Base/16) to 2048 x 3072 (16 Base). A
higher resolution and more tightly
Roman said...
Unless we can get a decent copy directly onto
a photographic paper.
I think he's hit the nail on the head there. The output
stage is the key.
All of us on this list know the hassles to be suffered
plugging gadgets into our computers and getting satisfactory
photographic
Infrared is also a serious, if not worse, hazard. Glass is
fairly transparent to it, as shown by greenhouses, passive
solar panels, the burning of holes with magnifying glasses,
and the feasibility of IR photography with ordinary lenses.
Most glasses absorb UV much more strongly than IR. Most of
UV is dangerous through breaking chemical bonds directly; IR
is dangerous through cooking (breaking chemical bonds by
heating as in a grill or a toaster). The sun's radiant
energy has lots and lots of both. Your retinal heat
receptors (if any) won't be quick enough to prevent damage
if you put a
shAf already mentioned that he had JPEG software that
allowed him to preview compare uncompressed and compressed
images.
Perhaps it's worth mentioning that PaintShopPro7 also has an
excellent JPEG compression magnifying preview facility, when
you choose "File..| Save as..| jpg...| Options...|
Sorry, I should have been more specific and explicit. The
context of the discussion was loss of high-bit colour
information (or not) started by someone who expected a 50MB
tif and got a 7MB jpeg. We then wandered off into jpeg
compression viewers.
PSP7 will not read the compressed 48-bit tif
All glasses strongly absorb UV radiation
Oh good. That's what I was trying to tell people. Thanks.
We could also mention the effect of path length, i.e., a
window pane vs a 14-element lens.
Alan T
- Original Message -
From: Shough, Dean [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:
I made a stupid mistake today that made me think the
focusing mechanism on my 1-year-old Scanwit had failed.
When trying to scan frame 3 of a strip of negatives, Vuescan
just kept on saying it was busy, indefinitely, and there was
no sign of the expected focusing step. Miraphoto (the
A couple of times a while back I had actually seen Ed's web
page updated to a new version number, but still got the old
version when I clicked the link. Both were correct at the
time so far as Ed was concerned. I think maybe some of the
servers between Ed me had been caching occasionally
Thanks, Arthur, for a clear exposition, as usual.
So the answer to Marvin's question 1 part 2 is...
"Use the resolution you got from the scanner, and let the
printer driver do the work."
This is what I've always done myself with my 2700ppi
scanner. I can't tell the difference in a print from
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 2:18 PM
Subject: Re: filmscanners: File sizes, file formats, etc.
for printing 8.5 x 11and 13...
If you save in JPEG once, re-open to work on it once, and
then save it as a
TIFF, how
I have a Scanwit 2720s, with which I am well pleased. It's
much the best budget scanner, by all accounts.
However, even with Ed Hamrick's Vuescan (a nearly essential
$40 accessory for most scanners) you can exert only limited
control over its initial output. You'll get its own
automatic exposure
I should be happy to have a single group of tabs, provided
that you don't use the dreadful standard MS tab system,
where the tabs rotate apparently at random, so that I can't
remember which ones I've just looked at.
PS: I still remember love 'Vuescan Classic' where all
settings were visible on
- Original Message -
From: shAf [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: filmscanners: Need feedback on VueScan Idea
Myself, I think I'd have a problem with not seeing the
controls
I'm presently using while I acquire subsequent
But the biggest
problem area in *both* media is where the dynamic range is
wide, e.g. in
But seriously, how are other users handling this
problem?-
Not very well, in general, myself. I frequently resort to
burning in highlights and/or dodging shadows using
PaintShopPro's 'smart edge
As Henry says, CLI means "Command Line Interface". (Like DOS
and native Unix, and millions of programs running under
them.)
To assist my filmscanning, I still use only one example
regularly:
Open a DOS window, and type the drive letter for your CD-ROM
drive. Type "DIR /s C:\files.txt". This
Khalid said:
2-What file Format should I use to save?
Arthur said:
TIFF or any other you think you will be able to read years
from now,
which is lossless. That precludes JPEG
Alan T says:
Arthur,
Khalid didn't give us any clues on just how perfect an
archive of his negs he wants.
Dear Arthur,
I've just experienced yet another photographic archiving
lesson, this time rather a painful one, with a lesson for
all of us about dependence on current technology.
I have thousands of colour slides, taken from approx
1970-1991, and about 7800 of these are stored in Hanimex
Rondex
Googling on "Hanimex Rondex" was in fact my first stop, but
I found nothing relevant in the UK. Most of the hits I got
were second order hits on Hanimex lenses. I imagine
intercontinental transportation costs would be prohibitive,
and probably not worthwhile on something that's worth
I've been trawling in the archive
(http://phi.res.cse.dmu.ac.uk/htdig) for the discussion I
remember here 3-4 months ago about Kodak's "Supra" neg
films, with allegedly good characteristics for scanning, and
a protective layer. The conclusions were ambiguous then.
Like Michael Wilkinson who's
Ah! Several people have told me that Tesco Jessops film is
likely to be Konica, and if Konica manufacture in Germany,
that tallies. I think these two brands are the same, and the
same as "Activa" films supplied by the Bonusprint DP firm.
They have similar markings on the neg top edges, including
Maris said:
Just a note on LZW compressed image portability - I have
run into one
instance where an LZW compressed image was not portable -
when exporting a
48-bit compressed TIFF from Vuescan to Corel PhotoPaint 9
it opens but the
image is unrecognizable. If exported uncompressed there
is
A program opens and re-adjusts the image for viewing;
I've seen both PS
and PP8 change the size values on a subsequent Save
I have never seen Paint Shop Pro do this for an unedited
image. The file size is likely to be different, however, if
the first image came from a different package's jpeg
I tried it with ten iterations in PSP7, and saw no visible
degradation, so my finding was different from Henk's.
Attached: two 6K jpeg clips of a bit of lace, clipped out of
400x250 29K clips from an original 2700 dpi scan.
The first is a clip from a PSP7 '15%' jpeg photograph,
resaved once
No-one has commented on the difference between my results
a bit of lace jpegged 10 times), posted on 30Mar, and
Henk's image of a letter on a plain background, similarly
treated. I can assure folk that I saved each image under a
new name and only *then* closed it before reloading it.
Is it
AIUI, there is no software control of *exposure* available
to the Scanwit programmer, so you're stuck with the
automatic exposure that the machine decides is appropriate
for the frame being scanned. All Vuescan (or any other
software) can do is twiddle the raw scan after scanning. So
scanning
BW prints and full strength household
ammonia dissolved the emulsion right off the print.
Arthur,
Ammonia is also quite a good solvent for metallic silver,
especially finely divided as in BW images, so I presume the
idea was to remove an unwanted relative, politician or other
bystander from
Thanks Rob, and DailGail, for the lists of fixes in the
PSP7.02 patch.
I use PSP7.0 almost every day on 2700ppi filmscans, and
luckily I haven't hit any of these problems. I've had it
since the UK launch (about a year ago?). This is on a 400MHz
Pentium II with 192MB RAM.
I use the clipboard a
It sounds to me as though your backup software may be
keeping a record of everything that has been installed since
the last backup, and trying to recreate it when you restore,
and also trying to verify that this will be possible.
If this is the case it's a superficially good but naive idea
from
I had lots of trouble with Vuescan yesterday, but attributed it to my
recent hard disk failure then upgrade, change from Win98 to Win98SE, and rebuild
of my software. This is with a Scanwit and 192MB RAM.
I had many crashes, not on opening Vuescan, but during operation. I tried
versions
bleached
out during processing.
It is thus inherently easier in the latter processes to use
permanent dyes; the colour chemists have fewer constraints
because they don't have to meet the requirements of
developer chemistry as well as everything else.
Regards,
Alan Tyson
- Original Message
Frank,
I've often failed to snap 'the center snaps' correctly on
my Scanwit 2720S, but scanning the wrong frame wasn't the
result - I got fatal failure to focus in Miraphoto, and
'hangs' in Vuescan.
So I hope clicking the carrier properly fixes your problem,
but I don't think I've had the
I haven't seen any film base deterioration yet in any of my
negs from the last 42 years (starting at age 10). I live in
the cool, moist UK, and they've been stored with no special
precautions. My octogenarian parents have lots of negs
stacked together in good condition in the original paper
I also have the yellow stain on my 2720S, but it is seldom a
problem. I have followed the discussion with interest. I
fear it's what we have to put up with in this very good
value downmarket product.
Vuescan shows the problem more than Miraphoto simply because
it's better at recording what's put
I use PSP7.02 routinely, but still have occasional recourse
to the following features in PS5LE
1. PS5LE's 'Variations' screen, where you can compare
different twiddles alongside each other, with adjustable
degrees of aggressiveness.
2. The PS5LE pick tool for selecting white point and black
When I've tried multiscanning on my 2720S, I've found it
hard to detect any degradation. Misalignment is of the order
of one 2700 ppi pixel on mine, or less, so it wouldn't
bother most
people. I can see it might mess up star locations.
Regards,
Alan T
- Original Message -
From: Herm
Frank,
I bet you're right, and this explains the wide divergence of
view here on Scanwit multiscanning accuracy which we've
discussed at least twice over the last year or so.
If using Herm's subtraction method to identify
discrepancies, the experiment to do is to compare several
different
Not all versions of Vuescan behave the same with respect to
SCSI refreshes. I had the following exchange with Ed on
3Mar01...
I notice that in the current Vuescan v6.7.5 on Win98, I no
longer have to
refresh the SCSI interface
Ian,
Ignoramus?
Rubbish!
Take a Nobel Prize, or at least a D.Sc for having done the
experiment; tried it out!
I have a friend with a digicam who keeps finding out things
like this. He's a professional who likes to do things
properly for the paying customers, but will also do the
experiments.
JASC hasn't taken compression/decompression of 48-bit images
seriously because PSP can't work with them. If you do load a
48-bit image you can only save it as 24-bit. For 'serious'
users (which doesn't include me) this is a bad drawback, and
means you're stuck with Photoshop or similar.
I used
David Lewiston [[EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote on Sun, 16 Sep 2001
13:57:58 -1000
...buy an enema bulb. I've used one for years (only for my
negs and
tranies you understand) and don't have a dust problem.
Alan T says
Last time David L suggested this, I tried hard to buy one
from many
I've heard rumor that these canned air
products might not be good for film, but so far
I've had no visible problem.
As you say, care is necessary to avoid squirting propellant
on the film. Another hazard to avoid is chilling the film
and causing condensation to appear. The spray will be rather
I have taken to leaving a deliberately blank frame on every
film in order to scan it for the mask. Sometimes I find
Vuescan's results better with these settings, and sometimes
not; I have to try it and see. Perhaps this is because I
have a Scanwit, on which Vuescan can't control the exposure.
Roger,
I have seen something similar recently (5K Scanwit/Vuescan
positive clip attached) on a neg film processed in a
brand-new Kodak minilab in my local Tesco store. The bubbles
on mine are about 140 microns diameter (15pixels @ 2700ppi),
but I can't tell the size of yours without knowing how
I set my default Vuescan buffer to 20%, on the grounds that
that's the sort of thing most of us live with quite happily
in centre-weighted exposure metering systems (grins ducks
while hoping that endless off-topic discussion on
centre-weighted meters does not ensue).
However, I've never got
I suggest reading Vuescan's own Help file right through,
using the Browse buttons (). It's concise, and everything
is there. I think there are fewer than 50 pages, and quite a
few of those are details of scanners, so it doesn't take
long. If you have a raw scan file saved on disk, you can
Title: FW: DIGITAL CAMERA SCANS
I have copies of a friend's results using an modest 2yr old
Sony consumer digital camera on a 6x6 Hasselblad slide, and they're excellent,
so I expect an upmarket digital camera on a 35mm slide would be pretty good.
As usual, it depends how fussy you are.
BTW, do you think 2800-2900 dpi is good enough for quality
A3 sized print
(about 260-270 dpi
and that size)
Yes, if it's an inkjet print, because the printer resolution
is less than this (approx 200dpi sent to the printer). But
remember you may wish to crop a frame, and still print at
A3, so
or to do
large numbers of images.
Regards good luck,
Alan Tyson
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2001 12:12 PM
Subject: filmscanners: Quick / Quality Scans - Help
Have Polaroid .
..shoot kids ice hockey each
I'm a Freeserve user, yet I've had these messages. I spotted
the offending virus-containing message as dodgy and deleted
it immediately on arrival.
Regards,
Alan T
- Original Message -
From: Steve Greenbank [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 1:13
as everything else.
Regards,
Alan Tyson
- Original Message -
From: Rob Geraghty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 12:05 AM
I've heard that too, although I don't understand what
difference it makes
when the dyes are added!
(but I can see that it does
Paint Shop Pro 7 has a facility called print multiple
images that does most of what you require, but you'd have
to create the captions as separate images using PSP7's text
tool.
- Original Message -
From: Ian Boag [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001
I understand why Ed has gone to html pages for the 'manual'.
Speaking as a former 'Help' author, I know that's it's a
major task to keep a complete conventional Help file
maintained and updated, when changes are occurring all the
time. Obviously it's less important than the program itself,
when
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