Dear Frameworks,
I'm looking for Ernie Gehr's contact info for my research purpose. If
anyone knows it, I'd appreciate if you inform me of it to my email address (
jihoonfe...@gmail.com).
Thank you in advance,
--
Ji-hoon Kim
Assistant Professor, Division of Broadcast Cinema Studies
Wee Kim
I don't think you can safely add a layer of finish - ink and markers probably
won't change much, but craft paint is going to come off (to some degree) so if
you want to project this (much) you need to make a print.
As I'm sure you are aware, the motion of the film through the projector is
Here are three more:
http://www.visionaryfilm.net/2007/02/desmonatje-film-vdeoapropiacin.html
http://www.visionaryfilm.net/2009/05/piedra-papel-y-tijera-el-collage-en-el.html
http://www.visionaryfilm.net/2006/11/recycled-images-william-c-wees.html
and here a thesis I wrote about
Dear all,
Millennium is re-locating to http://www.brooklynfireproof.com/ at the
beginning of June. We are getting rid of a lot of film equipment some in
good shape, some of it needs to be repaired or can be used for parts. We
also have a lot of books. There are three screenings this week see info
Hi Jarrett,
I've used clear nail polish successfully, but it's really just a stopgap to
transfer it, not a permanent solution. If you send the film off for public
screenings without a print it's pretty much guaranteed that the
projectionists will be extremely annoyed at a print that is gunking up
Hi,
Yes, I agree with previous comments about adding yet another layer to the
film: don't, at least not as a long lasting projection solution.
If break-down / image degeneration during exhibition is your thing, then
that's another story. But it sounds like you want what you've made to stay
more
Wowsers Ken!
A nice method - must have had many many layers in the timeline and lotsa
effects - slow renders... and I hope he had lots of memory!
That film looked beautiful.
- Flick
___
FrameWorks mailing list
FrameWorks@jonasmekasfilms.com
Davinci Resolve has semi automated dust removal (only works with DPX frames)
and I think it works in the free version. You draw a circle around the dirt
particle and Resolve compares a set if previous and upcomming frames to paint
it out. Works very well, you can potentially use resolve to
A circle matte no larger than the size of the dust particle was made, then a
piece of the frame just before or after the dust spot--in its exact
position--was captured then laid over the offending piece of dust. That's it!
Worked like a charm. Perhaps David T can weigh in on his method?
A nice method - must have had many many layers in the timeline and lotsa
effects - slow renders... and I hope he had lots of memory!
Just two layers, and not that many effects. Just multiple iterations of the
garbage matte on those frames with more than one nasty dust spot. There was a
To add to Stephanie's announcement, Millennium has a Bell and Howell JA
Contact Printer that is not functional and is too cumbersome to keep. If
someone redoes the wiring, they may be able to get it going. However, if
no one picks it up, we will have no choice but to scrap it. That would be
a
If I was closer I would be at your door step tomorrow morning but I'm in Ottawa
Canada:(
Roger D. Wilson613 324 - 7504rogerdwilson@sympatico.cahttp://www.rogerdwilson.ca
Without failure you can never achieve success. I have based my process and my
career as an experimental film artist on this
REMINDER
Extended Deadline for Submissions is June 1
Canyon Cinemazine
The purpose of this zine is to reignite the discussion of underground and
experimental film/video practice and theory, putting artists in the Bay Area
in dialogue with the greater experimental community. It is a platform for
I'd like to second the internegative idea. If your work is done, then take it
to a lab, have a contact internegative struck, and sit in on the timing session
to ensure that the colors are just the way you want them.
Or, and here is an opportunity for more creative work, if you have access to a
Thank you all for the info. My films aren't too long, max five minutes. I
will probably try the clear nail polish option, as I'm looking for a way to
stabilize the material on the film until I can wrangle up the money needed
to get internegatives and prints made, they are both on clear super-8
Try some clear lacquer spray – if you spray it on and add another couple of
fine coats when its still wet, the lay-off should be smooth and it will be
fairly flexible. I've done this in the past and you have to get the lacquer to
'soak' over/around your mark making while wet without skimming
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