Hello,
I am looking for a good wool supplier - I mean the thick wool used for coats
and such that you would mostly use for reenactment clothing like doublets,
cloaks, hose etc.
Ideally from Europe, but USA and other countries are also OK. I'm looking for
somebody who would sell 50-100 meters
I would recommend contacting Kerstin at Medeltidsmode in Sweden:
www.medeltidsmode.se; kers...@medeltidsmode.se och phone: +46 705 408811
She offers good quality at very good prices and I know she has good contacts
with manufacturers.
//Anna
2010/12/9 Zuzana Kraemerova zkraemer...@yahoo.com
Hi,
you might like Mehler Tuche in Tirschenreuth -
they´ve got wool in all weights and colors
including undyed and will dye to your
specifications if you need a larger yardage of
it. A thick, felt-like tabby cost around 18 Euro,
IIRC, but I only bought nine meters and they will
give
I would recommend Handelsgillet out of Sweden. www.handelsgillet.se/shop will
get you to the English page. I haven't ordered yardage but did get a full set
of samples. I have bought other things from them and the customer service was
excellent.
Regards,
Anne
Hello,
I am looking for a
You might check out gypsycaravan.com they import wool on an irregular basis.
Being a co-op it us cheaper depending on how many orders. They are working
on an order now. Most of theirs is from England or Scotland. I like their
wool melton.
--
*Maitresse Aspasia *
Thanks to all for the advice. I washed it on delicate (tumbling washer),
warm. Tumble dried it on the lowest setting and it came out fine. I'll
probably hand wash and drip dry after it's made, though.
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--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
What is wool satin? I've never heard of it. Sounds
yummy. Do you have pics?
Sorry - not yet, cos I don't often photograph things
till they're done.
It's wool in a satin weave - is v nice to work
with, and quite rare it
Is there a quick and easy way to know whether a wool fabric is a good
candidate for fulling? My experiments so far have had wildly different
results (the one which I bought marked 100% wool -a suiting- shrank
almost not at all), the other was a blanket from Value Village (which I
At 10:50 AM 9/15/2007, you wrote:
Is there a quick and easy way to know whether a wool fabric is a
good candidate for fulling? My experiments so far have had wildly
different results (the one which I bought marked 100% wool -a
suiting- shrank almost not at all), the other was a blanket from
Is there a quick and easy way to know whether a wool fabric is a good candidate
for fulling? My experiments so far have had wildly different results (the one
which I bought marked 100% wool -a suiting- shrank almost not at all), the
other was a blanket from Value Village (which I did the burn
Not quite. It has to do with the fiber length and the way the fiber is
prepared for spinning. Worsted was combed long staple and woolen was carded
short staple that is spun to make thread. Because combing lays fibers along
the length of the thread, it makes a stronger thread, but woolen can be
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Galadriel Lothlorien
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 6:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Wool Disaster!!
A cashmere(?) knit, silk-lined Valentino coat was
brought into my shop today. A very sweet old
I don't have any particularly new advice to give you, but don't give up
(yet)... I've successfully un-shrunken a nice wool cardigan, by stretching
it every few minutes as it dried, though it hadn't shrunk that
much--actually it wound up a bit bigger than when I started. Good luck!
-E House
First, gabardine probably is period for 17th century -- it's just a
hard-finished lightweight twill.
I almost always pre-wash my wools but you do lose some to shrinkage -- it
varies widely depending on the wool, but figure 10% to 15% just to be safe.
If I'm not sure how the wool will respond to a
Diana Habra wrote:
Also, washing a wool gabardine will shrink it and thicken it up a bit so
it will be less modern-looking. Every little bit helps!
If it is a very fine, tightly spun gabardine, washing will not change it
very much. But it will still remove leftover chemicals.
liz young
The problem with washing wool is that water and detergent both weaken
the fibers. The effect is worsened if you add agitation to the water and
detergent. Also, washing will remove whatever lanolin is left in the
fabric.
That is why it's best to spot clean woollen garments, or dry clean them.
I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is there
anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys pre-wash wool?
It's a gabardine fabric, which I know isn't terribly period, but it's what I
could afford, and I'm making my late-17th-century pirate
don't
get rashes when working with it.
Glenda.
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 10:25 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Wool
I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is
there anything I need to know
I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is
there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys
pre-wash wool?
I always pre-wash my wool. As someone said, it washes out any chemicals
used in processing and it leaves you the *option* of washing
-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: [h-cost] Wool
I'm in the planning stages of what will be my first ever wool garment. Is
there anything I need to know about sewing with it? Do any of you guys
pre-wash wool? It's a gabardine
Anyone have a source (pref US, but I'm not picky) for 100% wool felt
(for making hats)?
I am not looking for 'hoods' but for flat pieces. I am in the midst of
making a hat from a vintage vogue pattern (which is set up for flat
goods) and am fighting with cheap-looking 20% wool felt.
liz young
Try Weir Dolls:
http://www.weirdolls.com/fabrics/100felt.html
They have a medium weight 100% wool felt in over 40 colors by the yard or in
pieces.
Hope this helps; good luck with your project.
-Helen/Aidan
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I was looking at some, solid colored, imported 100% wool challis which
is one of the nicest, lightweight wools I have seen anywhere. It has a
very distinctive diagonal twill pattern to it. I read here:
http://www.ntgi.net/ICCFD/wool.htm#challis that Challis originated in
Norwich England in
Yeah! Thanks Kim.
Sg
kim baird wrote:
I think part of the definition of challis is also that it's a print on a
dark ground. Otherwise, you'd just have a lightweight wool twill.
So if it's a solid color, it's not challis and you could use it.
Kim
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