Re: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
Hi. I think the size of the tabs looks fine. The reason why your tabs hangs like dogs ears, is because they need the support from the trunk hosen. Bjarne - Original Message - From: A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 3:03 AM Subject: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet I have a question about the size/shape of doublet tabs/skirts on men's doublets ca. 1600-1610. Some background: I'm making a linen canvas doublet for rapier fencing, based loosely on the one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 (page 82). Apart from the fabric, it also has a pointed front (because I'm made that way - my navel lies below my natural waistline) and corded body for extra impact protection. Here are some pictures of my progress thus far. The tabs are basted on, and though it's not visible there's a linen canvas lacing strip beneath: Front: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00059kk8 Back: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00058xfp My question is primarily decorative. According to the dimensions given in Arnold and my eyeballing, it seems like each of the tabs should be roughly the size of my hand, give or take a 1/2 or so, which these are. I opted not to pad them with the cotton batting I used elsewhere because I thought it would add bulk without much stiffness. However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing it doesn't look right to me; I think I might be comparing it in my mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period. Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's 16th century? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
The tabs look great to me, in fact the whole doublet does. I think that when you are fully dressed, your bottom half garment will create the look you are after in the tabs. They just need that stuff underneath. Will you be wearing petticoats or venetians? Kelly Bravery is something you can experience on the spur of the moment, faced with danger. To have courage, you must think about the dangers in advance, then weigh the risks, and then do what you have to do, despite your fears Caius Merlyn Britannicus From: A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 21:03:22 -0400 I have a question about the size/shape of doublet tabs/skirts on men's doublets ca. 1600-1610. Some background: I'm making a linen canvas doublet for rapier fencing, based loosely on the one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 (page 82). Apart from the fabric, it also has a pointed front (because I'm made that way - my navel lies below my natural waistline) and corded body for extra impact protection. Here are some pictures of my progress thus far. The tabs are basted on, and though it's not visible there's a linen canvas lacing strip beneath: Front: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00059kk8 Back: http://pics.livejournal.com/anotheranon/pic/00058xfp My question is primarily decorative. According to the dimensions given in Arnold and my eyeballing, it seems like each of the tabs should be roughly the size of my hand, give or take a 1/2 or so, which these are. I opted not to pad them with the cotton batting I used elsewhere because I thought it would add bulk without much stiffness. However, the tabs seem to droop - I've likened them to a row of floppy dogs ears! And the large size while not unflattering when I'm wearing it doesn't look right to me; I think I might be comparing it in my mind to the smaller tabs found on women's stays of the same period. Can someone tell me - are the tabs the right size/shape/bulk, or am I just being unduly influenced by my experience of doing mostly women's 16th century? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] An Era Ends
It is with the deepest regret we've decided to close out our historical pattern line. With the growth of The Big Three's (Simplicity, Butterick, McCall's) historical patterns, it has become increasingly difficult to compete with these very large marketing machines. Who can argue with a $0.99 pattern? Even if that pattern isn't historically accurate, so many people feel that if they're going to have to spend time tweaking to be assured of a good fit, better to spend $0.99 and tweak than a minimum of $20.00. So, from now until the patterns are gone, we're clearing out all in-stock historical sewing patterns, as well as a few re-enactor supplies and amusements, at an unprecedented 40% discount. The cooperage will still continue to operate on a limited basis, with Gary producing cooperage for orders in-house, and in the future for stock which will be made available through our website. The museum quality embroidery supplies will still be available, as will Lorina's artwork and the exquisite line of Porter music boxes, both large and small. In the future we hope to have other goods of interest for our customers. Life is a journey, and we fully expect the journey to be filled with interest and evolution. With regards as always Lorina and Gary Stephens Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] iridescent fabric/weaving ( mind over matter)
I have got a green and black iridescent taffeta, but don't know how much of it I have. How much do you need? Gia/Elena -- Original message -- From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED] I had one of those neat synchronicity moments recently: I thought to myself, Huh! I bet you could make an iridescent with more than just 2 colors. Why don't they? and the next day, I picked up a fabric order that included some iridescent silk taffeta, which to my surprised delight was a _3_ color iridescent. It looked taupe, but was actually pink and green weft on black warp. Very cool! Yep:) In fact I believe this is true irridescent fabric rather than simply shot or two tone. Anyway, the whole thing has gotten me wondering: how practical is it to make 3+ color iridescents? Are they as uncommon as I think? Are there any weavers on here who can expound on them? I had seen soem mentioned on a website and then lo and behold within a few weeks I handled some in person at a local trade type store. It was red and green and another colour I can't remember, but I was able to pick out a thread of each colour so it wasn't just a trick of the light. It's (would commit minor mayhem for a freakin' copper/purple or copper/teal taffeta, or best of all, a copper/teal/purple!) I am just on the hunt locally for simple green and black! Screes of red and black or rust and black or muddy grey and orange... but not green and black! Michaela http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.4/448 - Release Date: 14/09/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet
On 9/19/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Message: 6 Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 20:23:35 -0500 From: Alexandria Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question re: men's 16th/17th c. doublet To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Answering several people's questions here. Alexandra asked: I'd wonder though why you chose to add cotton batting to your doublet? I have done rapier fencing in linen doublets and shirts, without addition padding and was quite well protected. It would seem to me that the padding would add to overheating, which could hurt you more than a small bruise or two. Well, that's my opinion, ymmv, Alex I added the cotton batting partly as a nod to the silk floss padding described in Janet Arnold, and partly because the armseyes are so high/tight I don't think I'll be able to fit my modern underarm protector underneath. The group I fence with (mashs.org) emphasizes safety heavily so I don't want to go to the great trouble of making this thing and then not be able to fence in it! Kelly asked: The tabs look great to me, in fact the whole doublet does. I think that when you are fully dressed, your bottom half garment will create the look you are after in the tabs. They just need that stuff underneath. Will you be wearing petticoats or venetians? Venetians - I learned to fence in modern fencing knickers, I'd likely trip over myself if I tried to switch to skirts now :P Many of you mentioned the possibility that the bottom half of the outfit - breeches or skirt - will help hold out the tabs, but I am not so sure - venetians aren't that full up top, are they? I think I may well add a layer of canvas for more oomph. Thank you for your answers! Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
