RE: [h-cost] 15rh century embroidery site

2006-10-01 Thread otsisto
Which ones are your artwork?
De

-Original Message-
 http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html


It's a very nice extensive site ... a pity the site owner is still  
using some of my original art on it without attribution or permission  
after I directly asked for it to be removed.

Heather


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RE: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol

2006-10-01 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
I would love to have copies if you still have them. Dickens Fair is coming
fast.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OTanother Christmas Carol


My theater did a costumed (impressions only, ca. 1860--no budget!)  
reading of excerpts from SEVEN Dickens holiday things--Christmas Carol,  
The Chimes, two of the Sketches by Boz (Christmas Dinner and The New  
Year), Mr Pickwick's Good Humoured Christmas Chapter, and the  
description of Christmas preparations in Edwin Drood. We interspersed  
seasonal music from Dickens' time, including a melodramatic piece he  
wrote lyrics to called The Ivy Green. VERY good time was had by all,  
and many said it was a shame that the only Dickens usually mentioned at  
Christmas was CC. I had flirted with branching out to include Birds'  
Christmas Carol too--yes, a wonderful tear-jerker--and The Little  
Match Girl--but one can do only so much, and it was nice to keep the  
focus on Dickens anyway. I'd be happy to share my script and song list  
with anyone wanting to recreate a Victorian parlour and present these  
terrific pieces--hearing them read aloud demonstrates that Dickens  
wrote for that very possibility--they're very dramatic and lively in  
the mouth of a good actorseveral of the audience, not relatives,  
came up and HUGGED the cast members afterward!

--Ruth Anne Baumgarter
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Sep 29, 2006, at 11:58 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Speaking of Christmas Carolsas a literary genre...

 Anyone ever read The Bird's Christmas Carol?

 I remember it being a real tear jerker from my childhood. It's from 
 the 1890's I believe. Lemme look up the author

 Kate Douglas Wiggin


 Whoa! You can read the whole thing here:

 _http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2?
 id=WigBird.sgmimages=images/mod
 engdata=/texts/english/modeng/parsedtag=publicpart=teiHeader_
 (http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2? 
 id=WigBird.sgmimages=images/modengdata=/tex
 ts/english/modeng/parsedtag=publicpart=teiHeader)

 Very sentimental. Someone should dramatize and do itjust for a   
 change.
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Re: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol

2006-10-01 Thread Linda Walton

Yes please !
Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.,
where I'm already desperate for something new to 
do at Christmas.)


Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:

(snip)I'd be happy to share my script and song list
with anyone wanting to recreate a Victorian parlour and present these 
terrific pieces (snip)


--Ruth Anne Baumgarter
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

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[h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi,
Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel farthingales was 
worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.
The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah 
Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a little, 
and found this quote!



1617
Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
That shelter all defects from head to heeles.
   Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.

Whale bone wheels.. How about that?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 



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Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread Robin Netherton

On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

 Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel
 farthingales was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.

For those who came in late, some of the conversation is preserved on my
webpage, here:

http://www.netherton.net/robin

(Every time this topic comes up, people ask for these posts, so I put them
all in in one place.)

And later conversations can be found by looking in the h-cost archives.

 The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah
 Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a
 little, and found this quote!
 
 1617
 Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
 Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
 Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
 That shelter all defects from head to heeles.
 Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.
 
 Whale bone wheels.. How about that?

That's indeed one of the small handful of citations Verna and I collected
when we did our original research on this topic (which I do intend to get
into print in the next few years, now that I have a place to publish it,
but I have another paper to do first). It also has the distinction of
being the first reference to a wheel that we could find, and the only
one that dates from the period in which the style was worn. (The next one,
from a play, is from 1664, and makes passing reference to the
long-outdated fashion of wheel vardingales.)

Given that it's a satirical poem, using metaphor and picturesque language,
I think we have to consider that the use of the word wheel could quite
easily have been a logical reference to the visual effect of the style, as
perceived by the viewer, rather than its construction. The term does not
seem to be used in tailor's bills, inventories, or other documents written
by who made, bought, or wore the garment -- those have large numbers of
references to rolls, but never wheels that I've seen. (I will confess
that I am relying on other people's research into such documents for these
references; I haven't done the inventory-crawling myself. I do have a
standing order for such references with various friends who have their
heads in these documents, in case they spot any.)

I suspect also this reference, or possibly the 1664 one, may be the source
for English-speaking costume historians of the 18th and 19th centuries
calling this a wheel farthingale -- so we have to be careful about
circular logic. That is, if Strutt in 1792 said this is called a wheel
because of two mentions in literature, and thus costume historians have
since then assumed it was *built* in the form of a wheel, we don't want to
now say that the same citations (the source of the term) prove the
assumptions people have created based on that term.

Of more interest is the reference to whalebone. We know that whalebone was
used in corsets at this point. There are some inventory references to
whalebone being bought and used for farthingales, too, from at least the
1590s and later.

However, it does appear that whalebone was also used in the construction
of rolls. Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts describe rolls made of such
fabric as damask, buckram, taffeta, and holland cloth, stuffed with cotton
wool, and supported with whalebone, bent, or wire. (For citations
regarding materials used in farthingales, see Arnold, _QEWU_, p. 196-198,
and the Cunningtons' _Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth
Century_, p. 161). A 1588 essay by Montaigne, as translated into English
by John Florio in 1603, also mentions stuffing in combination with
stiffening, referring to stiffe bumbasted verdugals (bombasted meaning
stuffed, so these were clearly rolls). (Montaigne is also quoted in
Waugh, page 28.)

None of the references specify just how those supports/stiffeners were
used. They may have been used inside the roll to help hold its form, or
they may have been placed on the surface. Verna and I found that boning
around the outer channel of the roll was useful but not necessary; we
didn't try boning on the inner edge (that is, against the waist) or as an
interior support. It may be that the need for interior boning would become
more obvious with constant wearing of a farthingale, something we have not
done; I can imagine that a farthingale with a circular bone around the
edge would hold its shape better over time.

So we aren't sure about how the stiffening material is used in the rolls.
What is clear, though, is that whalebone was used at least sometimes in
rolls. The rolls are particularly well-documented as being referred to as
farthingales in this period. Wheels is not a term that appears in
these contexts, just in occasional male writer's poetic descriptions (and
only one of those so far found from the period of the style). So, we
didn't want to rest a case for a boned wheel construction on that one
reference.

Always happy to hear more evidence, though. We did try for a very long
time to 

RE: [h-cost] OT....another Christmas Carol

2006-10-01 Thread Kathryn Parke
Yes, I would be interested as well.  Thanks.  KP
  

Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  I would love to have copies if you still have them. Dickens Fair is coming
fast.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ruth Anne Baumgartner
Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OTanother Christmas Carol


My theater did a costumed (impressions only, ca. 1860--no budget!) 
reading of excerpts from SEVEN Dickens holiday things--Christmas Carol, 
The Chimes, two of the Sketches by Boz (Christmas Dinner and The New 
Year), Mr Pickwick's Good Humoured Christmas Chapter, and the 
description of Christmas preparations in Edwin Drood. We interspersed 
seasonal music from Dickens' time, including a melodramatic piece he 
wrote lyrics to called The Ivy Green. VERY good time was had by all, 
and many said it was a shame that the only Dickens usually mentioned at 
Christmas was CC. I had flirted with branching out to include Birds' 
Christmas Carol too--yes, a wonderful tear-jerker--and The Little 
Match Girl--but one can do only so much, and it was nice to keep the 
focus on Dickens anyway. I'd be happy to share my script and song list 
with anyone wanting to recreate a Victorian parlour and present these 
terrific pieces--hearing them read aloud demonstrates that Dickens 
wrote for that very possibility--they're very dramatic and lively in 
the mouth of a good actorseveral of the audience, not relatives, 
came up and HUGGED the cast members afterward!

--Ruth Anne Baumgarter
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

On Sep 29, 2006, at 11:58 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Speaking of Christmas Carolsas a literary genre...

 Anyone ever read The Bird's Christmas Carol?

 I remember it being a real tear jerker from my childhood. It's from 
 the 1890's I believe. Lemme look up the author

 Kate Douglas Wiggin


 Whoa! You can read the whole thing here:

 _http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2?
 id=WigBird.sgmimages=images/mod
 engdata=/texts/english/modeng/parsedtag=publicpart=teiHeader_
 (http://etext.virginia.edu/etcbin/toccer-new2? 
 id=WigBird.sgmimages=images/modengdata=/tex
 ts/english/modeng/parsedtag=publicpart=teiHeader)

 Very sentimental. Someone should dramatize and do itjust for a 
 change.
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 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


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[h-cost] need suggestions for campy 18th century costumes

2006-10-01 Thread Allison

Greetings, all.

I am helping with a fundraiser for the March of Dimes.  It's a silent 
auction/live auction/dancing/socializing event, and the theme is Let 
Them Eat Cake, in the style of Marie Antoinette.  Instead of catered 
dinner, the food will be desserts.  So we are trying to play up the 
frothy, festive, over-the-top attitude.  I need to dress about 6 actors 
in the style, but I want to make the costumes less cumbersome, and 
hopefully easier to do than real 18C.


Please and thank you: I need ideas from all you guys - any suggestions 
are welcome!   Anyhoo - I'm thinking of having my women wear fishnets 
and dance trunks, and constructing some sort of pannier/skirt to tie 
around the waist.  What movie am I thinking of (or play?) that had 
panniers made of some king of sparkly tubing, worn without an 
overskirt?  Aaaargh.  And how can I make some easy corsets in the 
same style?


I've got $5 long blonde wigs from WalMart which i can build into the 
extreme style I want, using tulle to add volume.  But please put on 
your thinking caps for the rest of the garb.  (I need suggestions for 
men's garb as well.)


TIA from a grateful fellow garbwhore.

Allison P.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread kelly grant

Thank you Bjarne!  I hadn't noticed that one!

Kelly
- Original Message - 
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 3:37 PM
Subject: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.



Hi,
Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel farthingales 
was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.
The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah 
Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a 
little, and found this quote!



1617
Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
That shelter all defects from head to heeles.
   Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.

Whale bone wheels.. How about that?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread kelly grant

Robin,
How did you build your roll/wheel in the end?  I was liking the idea of a 
wheel farthingale, but can't seem to get the right look yet.  I have a wheel 
supported by a large roll, but the outer edge collapses.


Kelly
- Original Message - 
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.




On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel
farthingales was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.


For those who came in late, some of the conversation is preserved on my
webpage, here:

http://www.netherton.net/robin

(Every time this topic comes up, people ask for these posts, so I put them
all in in one place.)

And later conversations can be found by looking in the h-cost archives.


The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah
Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a
little, and found this quote!

1617
Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
That shelter all defects from head to heeles.
Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.

Whale bone wheels.. How about that?


That's indeed one of the small handful of citations Verna and I collected
when we did our original research on this topic (which I do intend to get
into print in the next few years, now that I have a place to publish it,
but I have another paper to do first). It also has the distinction of
being the first reference to a wheel that we could find, and the only
one that dates from the period in which the style was worn. (The next one,
from a play, is from 1664, and makes passing reference to the
long-outdated fashion of wheel vardingales.)

Given that it's a satirical poem, using metaphor and picturesque language,
I think we have to consider that the use of the word wheel could quite
easily have been a logical reference to the visual effect of the style, as
perceived by the viewer, rather than its construction. The term does not
seem to be used in tailor's bills, inventories, or other documents written
by who made, bought, or wore the garment -- those have large numbers of
references to rolls, but never wheels that I've seen. (I will confess
that I am relying on other people's research into such documents for these
references; I haven't done the inventory-crawling myself. I do have a
standing order for such references with various friends who have their
heads in these documents, in case they spot any.)

I suspect also this reference, or possibly the 1664 one, may be the source
for English-speaking costume historians of the 18th and 19th centuries
calling this a wheel farthingale -- so we have to be careful about
circular logic. That is, if Strutt in 1792 said this is called a wheel
because of two mentions in literature, and thus costume historians have
since then assumed it was *built* in the form of a wheel, we don't want to
now say that the same citations (the source of the term) prove the
assumptions people have created based on that term.

Of more interest is the reference to whalebone. We know that whalebone was
used in corsets at this point. There are some inventory references to
whalebone being bought and used for farthingales, too, from at least the
1590s and later.

However, it does appear that whalebone was also used in the construction
of rolls. Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts describe rolls made of such
fabric as damask, buckram, taffeta, and holland cloth, stuffed with cotton
wool, and supported with whalebone, bent, or wire. (For citations
regarding materials used in farthingales, see Arnold, _QEWU_, p. 196-198,
and the Cunningtons' _Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth
Century_, p. 161). A 1588 essay by Montaigne, as translated into English
by John Florio in 1603, also mentions stuffing in combination with
stiffening, referring to stiffe bumbasted verdugals (bombasted meaning
stuffed, so these were clearly rolls). (Montaigne is also quoted in
Waugh, page 28.)

None of the references specify just how those supports/stiffeners were
used. They may have been used inside the roll to help hold its form, or
they may have been placed on the surface. Verna and I found that boning
around the outer channel of the roll was useful but not necessary; we
didn't try boning on the inner edge (that is, against the waist) or as an
interior support. It may be that the need for interior boning would become
more obvious with constant wearing of a farthingale, something we have not
done; I can imagine that a farthingale with a circular bone around the
edge would hold its shape better over time.

So we aren't sure about how the stiffening material is used in the rolls.
What is clear, though, is that whalebone was used at least sometimes in
rolls. The 

Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi Robin,
Yes you are right. I just thoaght it was obvious, that the support used for 
these styles, could very well have ben a wheel of whalebone at the top.
Thats what i associated it to. But it could also be translated to 
farthingales was made of wheels of whalebone, cone shaped, but also drum 
shaped.
The term wheel of whalebone, could be both a coneshaped farthingale, and a 
drum shaped farthingale.

Just my two cents.
But i wished there was more evidens somewhere.
In Denmark i have read old describtions, in german, (courtpeople spoke 
german in Denmark) and the word is utstopfte magen wich can be translated to 
stuffed stomachers, this could maybe be a refference to a piececot belly, 
and has nothing to do with a farthingale, its very strange. The spanish word 
vertugale is used in Denmark.


Bjarne


- Original Message - 
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.




On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:


Some years back, we had this topic up about wheather wheel
farthingales was worn, or if they only used huge bumrolls.


For those who came in late, some of the conversation is preserved on my
webpage, here:

http://www.netherton.net/robin

(Every time this topic comes up, people ask for these posts, so I put them
all in in one place.)

And later conversations can be found by looking in the h-cost archives.


The reason why i fell apun this quote, is, that i rarely read in Norah
Waughs Corsets and Crinolines, just use the patterns. Today i read a
little, and found this quote!

1617
Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
That shelter all defects from head to heeles.
Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.

Whale bone wheels.. How about that?


That's indeed one of the small handful of citations Verna and I collected
when we did our original research on this topic (which I do intend to get
into print in the next few years, now that I have a place to publish it,
but I have another paper to do first). It also has the distinction of
being the first reference to a wheel that we could find, and the only
one that dates from the period in which the style was worn. (The next one,
from a play, is from 1664, and makes passing reference to the
long-outdated fashion of wheel vardingales.)

Given that it's a satirical poem, using metaphor and picturesque language,
I think we have to consider that the use of the word wheel could quite
easily have been a logical reference to the visual effect of the style, as
perceived by the viewer, rather than its construction. The term does not
seem to be used in tailor's bills, inventories, or other documents written
by who made, bought, or wore the garment -- those have large numbers of
references to rolls, but never wheels that I've seen. (I will confess
that I am relying on other people's research into such documents for these
references; I haven't done the inventory-crawling myself. I do have a
standing order for such references with various friends who have their
heads in these documents, in case they spot any.)

I suspect also this reference, or possibly the 1664 one, may be the source
for English-speaking costume historians of the 18th and 19th centuries
calling this a wheel farthingale -- so we have to be careful about
circular logic. That is, if Strutt in 1792 said this is called a wheel
because of two mentions in literature, and thus costume historians have
since then assumed it was *built* in the form of a wheel, we don't want to
now say that the same citations (the source of the term) prove the
assumptions people have created based on that term.

Of more interest is the reference to whalebone. We know that whalebone was
used in corsets at this point. There are some inventory references to
whalebone being bought and used for farthingales, too, from at least the
1590s and later.

However, it does appear that whalebone was also used in the construction
of rolls. Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts describe rolls made of such
fabric as damask, buckram, taffeta, and holland cloth, stuffed with cotton
wool, and supported with whalebone, bent, or wire. (For citations
regarding materials used in farthingales, see Arnold, _QEWU_, p. 196-198,
and the Cunningtons' _Handbook of English Costume in the Sixteenth
Century_, p. 161). A 1588 essay by Montaigne, as translated into English
by John Florio in 1603, also mentions stuffing in combination with
stiffening, referring to stiffe bumbasted verdugals (bombasted meaning
stuffed, so these were clearly rolls). (Montaigne is also quoted in
Waugh, page 28.)

None of the references specify just how those supports/stiffeners were
used. They may have been used inside the roll to help hold its form, or
they may have been placed on the surface. Verna 

Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread Robin Netherton

On Mon, 2 Oct 2006, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

 The term wheel of whalebone, could be both a coneshaped farthingale,
 and a drum shaped farthingale.

Hmm, I hadn't even thought about the cone-shaped (Spanish) farthingales.
How late were the cone-shaped farthingales worn? I had the impression they
were disappearing in England by the 1580s or so. England tends to lag
behind France, and France had the roll first, but I don't have any idea
about the rest of Europe. Of course the authors in this case were English
anyway.

 In Denmark i have read old describtions, in german, (courtpeople spoke
 german in Denmark) and the word is utstopfte magen wich can be
 translated to stuffed stomachers, this could maybe be a refference to
 a piececot belly, and has nothing to do with a farthingale, its very
 strange. The spanish word vertugale is used in Denmark.

I have absolutely no German, so if you do find something on this line, I'd
love to know! Drea probably would be interested, too, and she's done a lot
of work with German Renaissance documents. I'll pass this on to her.

--Robin

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[h-cost] Drea Leeds site

2006-10-01 Thread Cascio Michael
Hi all,

  Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
Help?
 
   Cassandra

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Re: [h-cost] Drea Leeds site

2006-10-01 Thread SPaterson

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/
and links off from there

Sarah Paterson
- Original Message - 


Hi all,

 Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
Help?

  Cassandra


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Re: [h-cost] Drea Leeds site

2006-10-01 Thread Adele de Maisieres

Cascio Michael wrote:


Hi all,

 Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
Help?



http://www.elizabethancostume.net/

--
Adele de Maisieres

-
Habeo metrum - musicamque,
hominem meam. Expectat alium quid?
-Georgeus Gershwinus
- 



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Re: [h-cost] 15rh century embroidery site

2006-10-01 Thread Heather Rose Jones


On Sep 30, 2006, at 11:36 PM, otsisto wrote:

-Original Message-

http://medieval.webcon.net.au/period_15th_c.html




It's a very nice extensive site ... a pity the site owner is still
using some of my original art on it without attribution or permission
after I directly asked for it to be removed.

Heather



Which ones are your artwork?
De



The line drawings of the motifs on the Mammen page (10th c. Denmark).

Heather

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Re: [h-cost] Drea Leeds site

2006-10-01 Thread Melanie Schuessler

http://www.elizabethancostume.net/



Cascio Michael wrote:

Hi all,

  Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent
site went?  Every one of the pages I had bookmarked
from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not
getting a site when I try googling for the main site.
Help?
 
   Cassandra


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RE: [h-cost] need suggestions for campy 18th century costumes

2006-10-01 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
Put them in skirts, but instead of panniers, make fake panniers using half
rounds of material. If you put the straight part of the half circle on the
selvage, you don't even have to hem. Gather the round edge and if that is
too flat, pouf with nylon net, just like you're planning with the wigs.
That way, your actors can move easily around crowded tables. Are you making
the decorations on the wigs look like pastries and petit fours?
For the men, stick them in women's' crop pants. You can probably get them at
a thrift store. Since this is fro charity, is there a local tuxedo store
that will let you borrow colored jackets? You could whip stitch or even pin
on fancy trim and big cuffs.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Allison
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 1:32 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] need suggestions for campy 18th century costumes


Greetings, all.

I am helping with a fundraiser for the March of Dimes.  It's a silent 
auction/live auction/dancing/socializing event, and the theme is Let 
Them Eat Cake, in the style of Marie Antoinette.  Instead of catered 
dinner, the food will be desserts.  So we are trying to play up the 
frothy, festive, over-the-top attitude.  I need to dress about 6 actors 
in the style, but I want to make the costumes less cumbersome, and 
hopefully easier to do than real 18C.

Please and thank you: I need ideas from all you guys - any suggestions 
are welcome!   Anyhoo - I'm thinking of having my women wear fishnets 
and dance trunks, and constructing some sort of pannier/skirt to tie 
around the waist.  What movie am I thinking of (or play?) that had 
panniers made of some king of sparkly tubing, worn without an 
overskirt?  Aaaargh.  And how can I make some easy corsets in the 
same style?

I've got $5 long blonde wigs from WalMart which i can build into the 
extreme style I want, using tulle to add volume.  But please put on 
your thinking caps for the rest of the garb.  (I need suggestions for 
men's garb as well.)

TIA from a grateful fellow garbwhore.

Allison P.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread E House
- Original Message - 

1617
Else (mincing madams) why do we (alas!)
Pine at your Pencill and conspiring Glasse?
Your Curles, Purles, Perriwigs, your Whale bone wheels?
That shelter all defects from head to heeles.
Henry Fitz - Jeoffery, Satyres and Satyrical Epigrams.


The 'head to heeles' part does suggest a farthingale to me, I must say, but 
as others have suggested, the farthingale seems like it would be, at the 
least, less than fashionable in 1617  Given the nature of the book, it's 
perfectly possible that the verse being quoted is not originally from 1617, 
though.  After a quick look to see when a periwig would have been worn, I 
was surprised to find the word's origin in the 1520s, and less surprised 
that wigs were popular during Elizabeth's reign.  And to be unintentionally 
coarse, wouldn't a farthingale collapsed on the floor look like a wheel?


On the other side of the argument, though, what about that drawing seen in 
Waugh's CC, of the dancers wearing wheels around their waist?  Or would you 
say those are for dancers only?


-E House 


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Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread Robin Netherton

On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, kelly grant wrote:

 How did you build your roll/wheel in the end?  I was liking the idea
 of a wheel farthingale, but can't seem to get the right look yet.  I
 have a wheel supported by a large roll, but the outer edge collapses.

No wheel, just a roll. See more detailed discussion at the link I cited
earlier, where I've saved a bunch of posts I wrote about this some years
ago:

  http://www.netherton.net/robin

Find the link for posts on the wheel farthingale.

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] wheel farthingale yeat another time.

2006-10-01 Thread Robin Netherton

On Sun, 1 Oct 2006, E House wrote:

 The 'head to heeles' part does suggest a farthingale to me, I must
 say, but as others have suggested, the farthingale seems like it would
 be, at the least, less than fashionable in 1617

The Spanish farthingale would have been long out of style. The French
farthingale, which created the wheel-like visual effect, would be just
starting to become passe at court, and it was still worn by lesser-born
women into the 1620s.

 On the other side of the argument, though, what about that drawing
 seen in Waugh's CC, of the dancers wearing wheels around their waist?  
 Or would you say those are for dancers only?

Whether they're wheels, exactly, is up for discussion, as is how they are
made (they might be bones in casings, or they might be a series of
connected small rolls, or a quilted pad, or lord knows what else). But
what is certain is that this is stage costume. For men. Doing a dance
performance. In a parody on the theme of deception. In 1625, by which
point the fashion was laughably out of date at court and possibly cause
for derision in and of itself. Given that this puts us four or five times
removed from reality, and given the lack of any corroborating evidence
whatsoever, I am not so optimistic as Waugh to assume that these are
realistic representations of what real women were wearing in court in the
early 1600s.

--Robin


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