Re: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

2007-05-22 Thread Kimiko Small
Yeah, what she said. Thanks Denise, I knew I was
forgetting something important.

Kimiko


--- Land of Oz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The key to even dying is movement. The method
> outlined by Kimiko is good up 
> to the point where she recommends leaving the
> sweater in the dye bath 
> overnight. This may result in darker spots wherever
> any available dye 
> settles on the sweater.  The best (most accurate)
> dye-bath has no available 
> dye left at the end -- the dye pot contains what
> looks like clear or very 
> slightly tinted water. Then you know you've used up
> all the available dye 
> and rinsing is a much easier task.  Then you just
> let the dye bath come to 
> room temperature and rinse.
> 
> Denise
> Iowa



 

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RE: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

2007-05-22 Thread Joan Jurancich

At 04:54 PM 5/22/2007, you wrote:

Believe it or not  Kool-aide works as a dye on wool. I saw it at the New
York State fair a long time ago. Thre colors are bright! I am sure that
using a mordent would make it more colorfast. That is all I know. Maybe
someone here knows more.
Monica


I've used Kool-Aid to dye wool. You do not need to add anything to 
it; I use 2 packages of unsweetened Kool-Aid to 1-1/2 ounces of 
wool.  I would suggest the cold water dye recommended earlier.



Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

2007-05-22 Thread Land of Oz

Believe it or not  Kool-aide works as a dye on wool. I saw it at the New
York State fair a long time ago. Thre colors are bright! I am sure that
using a mordent would make it more colorfast. That is all I know. Maybe
someone here knows more.



kool-aide is an acid dye and doesn't need a mordant, on top of the fact that 
there isn't any mordant that can make kool-aide colorfast. Also, your dyed 
goods will smell like the drink mix for a long time!


If you use any type of food coloring (drink mixes, easter egg dye, baking 
colors, etc) you will be sorry. They are not color fast.


The key to even dying is movement. The method outlined by Kimiko is good up 
to the point where she recommends leaving the sweater in the dye bath 
overnight. This may result in darker spots wherever any available dye 
settles on the sweater.  The best (most accurate) dye-bath has no available 
dye left at the end -- the dye pot contains what looks like clear or very 
slightly tinted water. Then you know you've used up all the available dye 
and rinsing is a much easier task.  Then you just let the dye bath come to 
room temperature and rinse.


Denise
Iowa

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RE: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

2007-05-22 Thread monica spence
Believe it or not  Kool-aide works as a dye on wool. I saw it at the New
York State fair a long time ago. Thre colors are bright! I am sure that
using a mordent would make it more colorfast. That is all I know. Maybe
someone here knows more.
Monica

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 5:59 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater


Any advice on how to dye an ivory colored, modern, machine knitted 100%
wool turtleneck sweater some less boring but solid color, without
felting it or otherwise damaging the texture?  The heat and agitation in
most dye instructions, even those for wool, makes me very antsy.  I'm
not really into dyeing or working with wool, but I got this sweater for
Christmas years ago, have never worn it because it's boring, and have
decided I might as well dye it.  If it works, I have a nice-quality
ivory 1950s cashmere cardigan I'd like to do next.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

2007-05-22 Thread michaela de bruce

It was clear.  I was just hoping for a reference for a stiffened
buckram.  It seems likely that there was such a thing, but I haven't
yet come across a reference that would certainly establish it.


Queen Mary's Wardrobe accounts, I'm not sure it that is the book I
listed (privy purse accounts for her as a princess and maybe later) or
if there was a seperate book of just her wardrobe. I'm going to be
looking through the privy purse accounts. past buckram is definitely
mentioned, I wonder if there are any more..
I was wrong too! It's not for a farthingale, I think I remembered that
because I thought it would be most odd to have a farthingale stiffened
with glue) it's for a collar of a loose gown "..the collar lined with
past buckram" 1558 Some of the texts I mentioned last time spelt paste
as past too. I think all of them actually;)


Paste board was made of paper, so that's a different thing.


True but: when they are used for a similar item they may have similar
properties, though I can see buckram (if it is stiffened) having an
edge when it comes to curved shapes. The texts didn't specify paste,
so perhaps the context was enough to diferenciate buckram from glued
buckram, or the buckram bought was later glued, or the buckram was
used unglued.

Oh and of course I agree we cannot presume that our modern use of
words matches up to what was used in the past and that the same word
meant the same thing at all times in the past. I'd like to know what
the link is between the use of the terms. Is it just and English term
as well? I would like to do some hunting in texts of other lands.

Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Re: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

2007-05-22 Thread Kimiko Small
Hi Fran,

I have dyed wool yarns before, handspun stuff, with
both chemical and natural dyes, and helped with one
wool jacket, so I can offer a little advice. But
others may have much better advice than I.

While it does take hot water to dye the garment, it is
the agitation, and the shock of hot, or even cold
water that will felt wool. 

First start with a newly cleaned sweater, that can be
done in cool water, let me amend that, water that is
room temperature, and well rinsed, with minimal
movement. Then take the wet sweater and put it into a
very large pot, preferably all steel or enameled, that
is large enough for the sweater and the water needed
to cover with room for stirring. Add cool water, that
should match the temp of the sweater. Again this is to
avoid the shock to the wool. Put the pot on the stove,
then slowly bring the water to high enough temp to dye
with (this depends on the dye you use, check
directions for temp needed). Using a stir stick (that
you can toss, since it will get dyed, unless it is
steel or glass or something like that), move the
sweater out of the way, and add in your dyes, and any
other chemicals needed, per the dye directions. Stir
the sweater gently but frequently so that the dye
disperses throughout the pot, as you don't want
streaks. Continue to stir the length of time needed
for the dye, which also depends on how deep a color
you want.

Once you get a color deeper than you want, since wet
color is darker than when the garment is dry, remove
the pot from the heat. Allow the wool to remain in the
pot for several hours or overnight, as the temp
naturally falls. When the water is again room temp,
carefully dump the remaining dye down the drain (again
check your dye for disposal needs). Fill the pot with
room temp water, and rinse several times until the
water runs clear.

Now, there's no guarantee that this will not shrink
the wool, as that's a matter of the kind of wool that
was used, if it was already preshrunk, if it was
tightly finished, or chemically finished, or anything
else for that matter. I've had some yarns not shrink
at all, and some yarns shrink a lot. The jacket I
helped with did shrink, but that was the chance my
friend took.

Good luck!

Kimiko


--- Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Any advice on how to dye an ivory colored, modern,
> machine knitted 100% 
> wool turtleneck sweater some less boring but solid
> color, without 
> felting it or otherwise damaging the texture?  The
> heat and agitation in 
> most dye instructions, even those for wool, makes me
> very antsy.  I'm 
> not really into dyeing or working with wool, but I
> got this sweater for 
> Christmas years ago, have never worn it because it's
> boring, and have 
> decided I might as well dye it.  If it works, I have
> a nice-quality 
> ivory 1950s cashmere cardigan I'd like to do next.
> 
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> http://www.lavoltapress.com




 

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RE: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

2007-05-22 Thread Kim Baird
Fran--

You can dye wool with Procion MX cold water dyes. You won't need heat, just
enough agitation to make sure it dyes evenly .

Kim

Get them from www.dharmatrading.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Lavolta Press
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 4:59 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] How to dye a sweater

Any advice on how to dye an ivory colored, modern, machine knitted 100% wool
turtleneck sweater some less boring but solid color, without felting it or
otherwise damaging the texture?  The heat and agitation in most dye
instructions, even those for wool, makes me very antsy.  I'm not really into
dyeing or working with wool, but I got this sweater for Christmas years ago,
have never worn it because it's boring, and have decided I might as well dye
it.  If it works, I have a nice-quality ivory 1950s cashmere cardigan I'd
like to do next.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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[h-cost] How to dye a sweater

2007-05-22 Thread Lavolta Press
Any advice on how to dye an ivory colored, modern, machine knitted 100% 
wool turtleneck sweater some less boring but solid color, without 
felting it or otherwise damaging the texture?  The heat and agitation in 
most dye instructions, even those for wool, makes me very antsy.  I'm 
not really into dyeing or working with wool, but I got this sweater for 
Christmas years ago, have never worn it because it's boring, and have 
decided I might as well dye it.  If it works, I have a nice-quality 
ivory 1950s cashmere cardigan I'd like to do next.


Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats/buckram

2007-05-22 Thread Bjarne og Leif Drews

Hi folks,
Isnt it strange but i cant find a danish word for Buckram, i have even asked 
reenactors, and nobody knows.

Most annoying!!!

Bjarne 



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Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

2007-05-22 Thread Melanie Schuessler


On May 21, 2007, at 7:53 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:


John's paper covered the 15th c. His research on the wool economy  
is very

impressive -- he was John Munro's student and spends a lot of time in
primary documents -- and I am inclined to trust his work. However,  
I don't

remember this particular mention in his paper, as it was 20 minutes of
very dense detail.


It caught my ear, as we had talked about buckram before, and I asked  
him for a copy of the paper, which he very kindly sent me.



That said, another paper I'm editing now includes references from the
Henry VIII inventory that mention quilts lined with "bockerame,"  
and in

discussions with the author we determined that the word clearly went
through a number of meanings over several hundred years, given the  
uses in
which it occurs. In the 16th c. it appears to have moved from being  
a fine
fabric to a coarser or heavier one, and may have encompassed both  
those
meanings simultaneously at some point. Most sources we found on  
16th c.
fabrics suggested it was linen or maybe cotton or maybe both. That  
doesn't
mean the term wasn't used to mean a wool fabric in the 15th! So I  
think
the only safe interpretation of a given reference would have to be  
closely

focused in locale and time period.


Yes, I must agree.  Linthicum lists a reference to buckram being  
cotton as early as 1295.  (In that context--from the eastern travels  
of Marco Polo--it probably was what we would call cotton, though  
sometimes the word cotton was used to refer to a woolen fabric in  
late medieval western Europe.)  She also has a shirt of buckram from  
1537, probably linen, and buckram hose for a man in 1522, possibly wool.


I guess my point in mentioning Oldland's reference was cautionary-- 
that this word had different meanings and shouldn't be assumed as one  
thing or another.  I should have said that at the time.


Melanie
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Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

2007-05-22 Thread Melanie Schuessler


On May 21, 2007, at 6:47 PM, michaela de bruce wrote:


I wrote that it appears to have been specified when it was stiffened
with glue as opposed to not, not that it was always a stiffened
material. Sorry if that was a little unclear.


It was clear.  I was just hoping for a reference for a stiffened  
buckram.  It seems likely that there was such a thing, but I haven't  
yet come across a reference that would certainly establish it.




http://books.google.com/books?id=W0elW6Yvji0C&pg=PA84&dq=past+buckeram
http://books.google.com/books?id=ItsuMAAJ&pg=PR106&dq=Queen+Mary 
+wardrobe

I'm having a hunt through these two, paste board is mentioned in the
Revels books as well as fine black buckram.


Paste board was made of paper, so that's a different thing.


 A lot of the buckram mentioned in the revels is bought in pieces too


Buckram seems to have been used frequently for theatrical purposes.   
Henslowe's diary lists several costumes for his theatre made of buckram:


 iij fares gowne of buckrome (from “The Enventary of the Clownes  
Sewtes and Hermetes Sewtes, with dievers other sewtes, as followeth,  
1598, the 10 of March.”)


Layed owt for the companye the 9 of novmb3 1602 to by ij calleco  
sewtes & ij buckerom sewte for the playe of cryssmas comes but

once a yeare the some of xxxviijs 8d

Lent vnto wm kempe the 22 of aguste 1602 to bye buckram to macke a  
payer of gyente hosse the some of vs


Lent vnto the company the 1 of septmb3 1601 to bye blacke buckrome to  
macke a sewte for a fyer drack in the 3 pt of thome

strowde the some of iij s vj d

He also lists several pawned items as having arrived in buckram bags.


Oh one more:
http://books.google.com/books?id=3X4Iybgb0BEC&pg=PA192&dq=bokeram
Bokeram; Buckram a description of making it is in MS Sloan 73, f. 214
So that might be worthwhile looking up as well. I did a google search
for it but couldn't find anything leading directly to it but it is
probably in the British Library.


That sounds very interesting!  Furnivall seems to have published part  
of it as the "Book of Quinte Essence," but it doesn't contain the  
relevant bit.


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Re: [h-cost] 16th Century Hats

2007-05-22 Thread Melanie Schuessler


On May 21, 2007, at 2:58 PM, E House wrote:


Melanie, do you have any idea how the felt was stiffened?  I have a  
big bag full of wool dryer lint I've been meaning to experiment  
with, and an even bigger bag of teeny tiny wool scraps...


Arnold doesn't say, and I'm afraid I have no idea--sorry.

Melanie

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