[h-cost] A crochet question
Not exactly a historical matter, but it's one of those 'if you guys don't know I don't know who does' questions. I just acquired some lovely Italian yarn for a very very cheap price probably because it is bright orange. Bright orange is not my colour, especially since I have in mind making something I might wear to work with it. I have no issues with dying it (it's cotton, so I'm not expecting it to felt, just maybe shrink a bit). So the question is, is it better to dye the yarn now (and how on earth do you go about drying 800m of dyed yarn if so) or crochet it and dye the garment? Oh, and look I just thought of a historical question. I know crochet dates from the 18th century (I have this idea in my head that it's less than a coincidence that it shows up around the time tambour embroidery (also done with a hook) was popular). And it was very popular for lace type work in Edwardian times. But when did it start to be used for heavy or close garments in the same way as knitting (eg for bedjackets, shawls etc)? I have found a 50's era pattern for a New Look style dress crocheted out of organza ribbon (so tempted to give that a go), so I know it was at least before then. Claire ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wish list
At 08:06 AM 11/7/2007, you wrote: I'm gathering information for the planning stages of a new project, and I'd love to get input from the people on this list. Has anyone mentioned color definitions? gore gusset hemming/edging techniques which dags are documented stitches used for seams shoulder seams... as the sleeve turns from seam on the back to seam under the arm. sleeve shapes/patterns collars...stand up, spread out, fold down? purpointe...how wide spread, which countries gloves armor that reflects clothes and vice versa history of the kilt types of kilt how to fold a great kilt I'm sure more will come up Genie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] A crochet question
If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like Procion, I don't think it makes a difference. Anything involving hot water, though, will shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should be dyed first, then crocheted. Yay, crochet!! :) ~ M. == ~ Twinkle, dammit! ~ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your
Don't forget the little stuff: Needle pin thimble Are you sure this is going to all fit into one book :)? Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Henry 7 Fashion Trends
Hey Julian, I'm right there with you! My SCA persona, Meleri ferch Iasper ap Dafydd, is a follower of the beloved and darn-near sainted Earl of Pembroke, the Earl of Richmond's uncle and protector... :) I would love to see a good study of this period too! I'm sure the Burgundian influences remained because of the Yorkist duchess, but we must not discount the influence of Brittany (itself alas probably heavily influenced by Burgundy), owing to the Exilic Years of Henry and Earl Jasper. From the few pics we have of Henry and his queen, we do know the standard silhouettes were in operation: the skirted doublet and over-robe (chamarre, I think?), and that French-style round cap with the laced sides for the guys, and the kirtle along Burgundian lines but with a more lowered waist and less bulky skirt for the ladies, with the long, slim sleeves and the long-sided English gable hood... but there had to be more to it all than that! I know the excesses of Henry 8's reign and following, where the kid blew the budget Dad had left him, have taken most of the attention--and I'm good with that because I love the classic 1520s and 30s looks. But somewhere between the garb of the waning Yorkist rulers and the flash of Henry 8 there has to have been SOMEthing!! :) Any Lancastrians who wanna chat, drop me a note any time... :) My thesis is on Jasper Tudor so I'm a bit... focused. :) Cheers, Meli --Julian scripsit: Robin, sorry to have confused your message header - I came into this thread late and didn't read the beginnings of it. However, I'm delighted to have contacted you. I've seen your name on the Lists to which i subscribe many, many times, and know the esteem in which you are held by others whose particular interest is historic costume. My own theory about the apparent lack of study of the Henry VII period for English clothing is that there doesn't seem to have BEEN an English Fashion. By everything I've read, the general conclusion I've drawn from the works of others who've studied and researched far more deeply than I - is that - due to the social uncertainty arising from the power struggles of the WotR, England didn't have the peaceful conditions which would have allowed/encouraged the development of an English Fasjion. By everything I've read, - from about 1450, until the Accession of Henry 8th, - English fashions were heavily influenced by those of the most brilliant Court in Europe, that of Burgundy, ruled over for much of that time by Princess Margaret of York, from her Capital at Mechelin in Flanders. I won't try and drag you further into a discussion on this when you are concentrating on another topic, - but such a definitive book is still on my wish List. Regards, Julian Wilson, [in 2007] Matthew Baker [lifelong Liegeman to Henry Tudor, Earl of Richmond, and then King of England, - in the SCA] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii
At 00:01 04/11/2007, you wrote: I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of use to someone here as well: Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption. The publication party for the book was to have been 1 October in England. Which is why the books are only shipping in time for Christmas. It is available in the US for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound version in that it is larger than 8 x 10) from http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%20of%20Henr y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1(David Brown Book company the US distributor Look for Oxbow books and click on the $) Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manley publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society This is an Annual Journal, not a quarterly one - I have very nearly a complete run, and thankfully, there is only one per year! Suzi www.costumesociety.org.uk . You can subscribe, or buy individual articles. I got involved because one of the articles in Costume Volume 41 (the present one) had the Janet Arnold work on the Effigy Corset. I'm not a penny pinching young student, but an employed and old student working on my MA as an Independent Scholar with my local university. This is why I paid the Student rate when I subscribed. The individual article is for sale on-line for $25. The writers frequently have access to items that I didn't even know about. The color chart is something I've been needing for years (and is pronounced by one of my professor friends as a very good rendition.) If you can't afford it, you can't. That means you know what to ask your Liberian for. Old issues are available as are individual articles. As you can see from the Table of Contents below, the Journal ranges over a wide range of periods and places. Wanda Included in No. 41 are: The pair of straight bodies' and a pair of drawers' dating from 1603 which Clothe the Effigy of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminster Abbey by Janet Arnold 'To Cap it All': The Waterford Cap of Maintenance (Henry VIII timeframe) by Cliodna Devit 'Rainbow for a Reign: The Colours of a Queen's Wardrobe (Queen Elizabeth, with a color chart to give you an idea of what the name actually means - such as 'maiden's blush' etc. The Merchant Taylors' Company of London under Elizabeth I: Tailors' Guild or Company of Merchants: By Nigel Sleigh-Johnson A Fashionable Confinement: Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman by Harriet Waterhouse (not Elizabethan) 'Over what crinoline should these charming jupons be worn?' Thompson's Survival Strategy During the Decline of the Crinoline by Lucy-Clare Windle The Dress Must be White and Perfectly Plain and Simple: Confirmation and First Confirmation Dress, 1850-2000 by Anthea Jarvis The Wearing of the Red: The Redcoat and the British Brand by Nigel Arch A clinging Liberty tea-gown instead of a magenta satin': The Colour Red in Artistic Dress by Liberty Co.' by Anna Buruma Modern Fashions for Modern Women: The Evolution of New York Sportswear in the 1930s by Rebecca Arnold Chained Melody or Putting Paco Rabanne in his Place by Rosemary Harden (my personal opinion is that his place is probably face down with a steak through his heart - Wanda) New Books and Articles by James Snowden and Naomi E.A. Tarrant Selective List Book Reviews Exhibitions Study Day -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rikke D. Giles Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2007 2:23 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [TheRenTailor] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii On 11/03/2007 12:47:05 PM, Wanda Pease wrote: Got mine two weeks ago. The American Distributor is David Brown Books and the cost for the Paper back (comes in a Sleeve) is $96. T Bleh, I ordered mine last July and still haven't gotten it! Lucky you :) I think I will have to contact David Brown. Aelianora This egroup is based on the website http://www.vertetsable.com - more commonly known as The Renaissance Tailor; Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheRenaissanceTailor/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheRenaissanceTailor/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list
[h-cost] Re: welcome back
Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens? regards Joy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: Henry VII Fashion (was: Dress topics, medieval Britain: Your wish list)
A well-researched and well-illustrated book [or 2, or 3] about English middle-class and upper-class Dress in England during the Reign of Henry 7th. Almost every book I've been able to look at purporting to deal with Tudor Dress or Costume slides over the Reign of Henry 7th (1485-1509) as though he never existed; - and begins in 1509 with the Accession of Henry 8th!. This book is neither entirely English, nor entirely about fashion (although there is a chapter on it); I've found _Women of Distinction: Margaret of York And Margaret of Austria_ edited by Yvonne Bleyerveld to be a wonderful resource for the time period you mention, as well as fascinating reading. -sunny NOTICE TO RECIPIENT: If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail, you are prohibited from sharing, copying, or otherwise using or disclosing its contents. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by reply e-mail and permanently delete this e-mail and any attachments without reading, forwarding or saving them. Thank you. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your
Don't forget the little stuff: Needle pin thimble Are you sure this is going to all fit into one book :)? With multiple thousands of entries ... OK, it will be a big book. I am one of a team of editors conscripted to help sort it all out. Many terms (e.g. garment names) will have very short definition-type entries. The items above, though, might end up covered in a larger article on sewing tools. Either way, we have to create a home for the concept, which is why these lists you folks are giving me are so useful. We are building our outline, and I'm taking the terms people give me and seeing whether they represent categories we've covered (or not). There have been quite a few new ideas coming in! That said, let me note I'm having to cut out all the terms and sources that are not English or connected to Britain. So, yes to the Luttrell Psalter, no to the Book of Chess. And while of course we'll have articles touching on foreign influence, we won't be needing to describe the saya, for instance. I'll be assembling my contribution to the master list in about a week or so, so keep 'em coming -- concepts as well as terms. Don't forget your ideal authors if you there's a scholar you associate with some field. You folks are wonderful! --Robin _ Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
Procion is not a literally cold-water dye; you need to use pretty warm water for best results. The dyeing process almost always shrinks the fibers, sometimes quite a lot. Also, the earlier in the process you dye the fibers, the more thoroughly the dye penetrates. Dyed in the fleece is better than dyed in the spun yarn, dyed in the yarn is better than dyed in the woven material, and dyed in the material is better than dyed in the made-up garment. Hence the old saying, Dyed in the wool. Ever buy a dyed-after-sewing garment, unpick the hem to take it up, and discover that it is pale, or even still white, on the inside of the old hem? And when I have dyed crocheted articles, the dye visibly penetrates better into the upper surface, than further down into the intertwinings of the yarn. Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com Maureen Campbell wrote: If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like Procion, I don't think it makes a difference. Anything involving hot water, though, will shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should be dyed first, then crocheted. Yay, crochet!! :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
In a message dated 11/14/2007 12:54:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Dyed in the wool. ** I thought this referred to the 18th century practice of mixing wool with other fibers, like linen or cotton, for coats and such. The wool offered warmth but the other fibers made the cloth not so expensive. Anyway, when dyed,, say blue, the wool would soak up the dye and the linen not so much so you ended up with something that kinda looks like what we today call kettle cloth. The fabric was dyed in the wool. But of course referring to dying the fleece makes much sense...with less of a story. ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
Sorry, I didn't read your message all that carefully. Yes: wool and silk both absorb dye better than cotton or linen, and cotton absorbs it better than linen. But if you dye a material woven from mixed fibers, you are not dyeing in the wool, but in the material. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com I thought this referred to the 18th century practice of mixing wool with other fibers, like linen or cotton, for coats and such. The wool offered warmth but the other fibers made the cloth not so expensive. Anyway, when dyed,, say blue, the wool would soak up the dye and the linen not so much so you ended up with something that kinda looks like what we today call kettle cloth. The fabric was dyed in the wool. But of course referring to dying the fleece makes much sense...with less of a story. ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
Back in the days when I had lots of time to experiment with natural dyes on the yarn I had time to spin (Oh for the days of no kids!!) my hubby made me a set of stretchers to keep the shrinkage to a minimum. Basically, it is no more than a couple pieces of 2x4 with dowels plugged in. Before the dye bath, I would wind the yarn across the bars in a single layer with fairly firm tension. Leave on the bars until you are done immersing in the dye bath and rinse water. Dry on the bars. By keeping it under a fair amount of tension it didn't have as much opportunity to contract. The nice part is that you can construct them to fit down in whatever size tub you have for your dye bath. We were lucky to have come across some fairly deep metal pans being discarded from the VA Hospital kitchen. Worked like a charm. Good luck. --- Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Procion is not a literally cold-water dye; you need to use pretty warm water for best results. The dyeing process almost always shrinks the fibers, sometimes quite a lot. Also, the earlier in the process you dye the fibers, the more thoroughly the dye penetrates. Dyed in the fleece is better than dyed in the spun yarn, dyed in the yarn is better than dyed in the woven material, and dyed in the material is better than dyed in the made-up garment. Hence the old saying, Dyed in the wool. Ever buy a dyed-after-sewing garment, unpick the hem to take it up, and discover that it is pale, or even still white, on the inside of the old hem? And when I have dyed crocheted articles, the dye visibly penetrates better into the upper surface, than further down into the intertwinings of the yarn. Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com Maureen Campbell wrote: If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like Procion, I don't think it makes a difference. Anything involving hot water, though, will shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should be dyed first, then crocheted. Yay, crochet!! :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: welcome back
Thanks! Am hard at work on more b/w for Christmas presents, then on to some new body linens - have been planning FOREVER to do the camicia from Raphael's La Muta. And then I'll need the gown to go with it... Alas, only one kitten remains - apparently they had been exposed to cat parvo before we found them. Last one is a holy terror now. G Happy stitching! Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO wildernesse, the Outlands http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joy Shillaker Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:30 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: welcome back Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens? regards Joy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: welcome back
I must second that your blackwork is magnificent! What a lot of work, and so beautifull!! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:51 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: welcome back Thanks! Am hard at work on more b/w for Christmas presents, then on to some new body linens - have been planning FOREVER to do the camicia from Raphael's La Muta. And then I'll need the gown to go with it... Alas, only one kitten remains - apparently they had been exposed to cat parvo before we found them. Last one is a holy terror now. G Happy stitching! Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO wildernesse, the Outlands http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joy Shillaker Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:30 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: welcome back Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens? regards Joy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: welcome back
Thanks! Next on my list of things to learn is to get better at various needle- laces, to trim my smocks and shirts up in high style... And someday to do beautiful silk work like yours! Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO wildernesse, the Outlands http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 12:03 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: welcome back I must second that your blackwork is magnificent! What a lot of work, and so beautifull!! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 7:51 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: welcome back Thanks! Am hard at work on more b/w for Christmas presents, then on to some new body linens - have been planning FOREVER to do the camicia from Raphael's La Muta. And then I'll need the gown to go with it... Alas, only one kitten remains - apparently they had been exposed to cat parvo before we found them. Last one is a holy terror now. G Happy stitching! Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO wildernesse, the Outlands http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joy Shillaker Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 8:30 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: welcome back Hi Liadain, your blackwork is absolutely gorgeous! How are the kittens? regards Joy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist
My suggestion isn't so much the headwords as something to include alongside the headwords-- their counterparts in other languages. For example, it's braies in French, but breeches in English, Bruche in German, and what about Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, etc.? It would be beyond the scope of the encyclopedia to try to address this comprehensively in all cases, but given that the English used terms from other languages (particularly French) to describe various fashions, there's going to be some non-English terminology creeping in. It will be up to the authors of the individual articles to consider whether and how to address this in each case ... but it's a point I'll make sure is raised early on. Thanks for mentioning it. --Robin _ Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Windows Live OneCare! http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist
My suggestion isn't so much the headwords as something to include alongside the headwords-- their counterparts in other languages. For example, it's braies in French, but breeches in English, Bruche in German, and what about Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, etc.? Astrida *** Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director The Art Gallery, University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 College Road Durham, NH 03824-3538 603-862=0310 FAX: 603-862-2191 www.unh.edu/art-gallery *** ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Costume journal was Re: [h-cost] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii
Suzi, I'm missing 1-5 and 39+ (need to re-up and get current) of Costume (Journal of the Costume Society). If you hear of someone with any of these for sale, please let me know! I'm also looking Textile History Vol 18 and Dress #26, 1999. (Journal of the Costume Society of America) Best price that I could find for Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii in the USA was BarnesNoble. They say that it will ship Nov 20... I've had it on order for awhile. Beth At 08:40 PM 11/14/2007, you wrote: Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2007 14:12:14 + From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] At 00:01 04/11/2007, you wrote: I put this on the Renaissance Tailor site, but it might be of use to someone here as well: Subject: RE: [TheRenTailor] Dress at the Court of King Henry Viii I got mine early because I used bribery and corruption. The publication party for the book was to have been 1 October in England. Which is why the books are only shipping in time for Christmas. It is available in the US for $98 for the slipcased Paperback edition (as large as the clothbound version in that it is larger than 8 x 10) from http://www.oxbowbooks.com/results.cfm/q/Dress%20in%20the%20Court%20of%20Henr y%20VIII/qt/All/ST/QS/StartRow/1(David Brown Book company the US distributor Look for Oxbow books and click on the $) Another nifty is Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society (also a Manley publishing item). It is a Quarterly Journal of the Costume Society This is an Annual Journal, not a quarterly one - I have very nearly a complete run, and thankfully, there is only one per year! Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] RE: Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wish list
I don't think those are too earthy at all! Except for the swaddling and clothing for infants are things I'd really be interested in knowing. Given the right book I'd probably be willing to spring for the baby stuff too. Wanda swaddling clothing for infants and toddlers underwear aprons breast support maternity clothing wills - clothing handed down through generations second hand clothing Are these too earthy? Mary ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
I've never seen it used in any sense but fastness. For example, if you call someone, A dyed-in-the-wool Republican, you mean their political beliefs are thoroughly those of the Republican party, not mixed or uncertain. Of course, if you dye some woolen yarn one color, and some linen thread another color, if you weave a fabric from both you might get something the modern fashion industry would call heathered. (Or instead striped, or checked, depending on how you set up the loom and wove the fabric.) Or for that matter, if both yarns are wool. What matters is having the different colors. In this case the wool could be dyed either before or after spinning, but you'd need to do it before weaving. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: But of course referring to dying the fleece makes much sense...with less of a story. ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist
Oops, just read the England only bit. But still, the other languages would be very useful-- at least as a handle on research using the encyclopedia as a launch pad. *** Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director The Art Gallery, University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 College Road Durham, NH 03824-3538 603-862=0310 FAX: 603-862-2191 www.unh.edu/art-gallery *** -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Schaeffer, Astrida Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 4:08 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: RE: [h-cost] Dress and textile topics, medieval Britain: Your wishlist My suggestion isn't so much the headwords as something to include alongside the headwords-- their counterparts in other languages. For example, it's braies in French, but breeches in English, Bruche in German, and what about Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, etc.? Astrida *** Astrida Schaeffer, Assistant Director The Art Gallery, University of New Hampshire Paul Creative Arts Center 30 College Road Durham, NH 03824-3538 603-862=0310 FAX: 603-862-2191 www.unh.edu/art-gallery *** ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
Back in the days when I used to do a lot of weaving and crocheting, I never became interested in spinning, for some reason. I bought pre-dyed yarn. However, my philosophy is that if something is likely to shrink, I'd rather get it over with before I go to a lot of trouble making a garment by any method. One great thing the device you describe has going for it, is keeping the yarn from becoming a totally tangled mess while being agitated to distribute the dye. A problem I've always had while dyeing things like long lengths of lace trim. The other thing about crochet, knitting, and lace is that they can be fragile. Of course, this depends on how fine your yarn or thread is, how well you tuck the ends in, and how careful you are when agitating the piece. But I'm going to agitate something during dyeing, if I have the choice I prefer it to be in a less fragile state, as I'd rather not spend a lot of effort making something, then have it come apart during dyeing. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Back in the days when I had lots of time to experiment with natural dyes on the yarn I had time to spin (Oh for the days of no kids!!) my hubby made me a set of stretchers to keep the shrinkage to a minimum. snip Good luck. --- Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Procion is not a literally cold-water dye; you need to use pretty warm water for best results. The dyeing process almost always shrinks the fibers, sometimes quite a lot. Also, the earlier in the process you dye the fibers, the more thoroughly the dye penetrates. Dyed in the fleece is better than dyed in the spun yarn, dyed in the yarn is better than dyed in the woven material, and dyed in the material is better than dyed in the made-up garment. Hence the old saying, Dyed in the wool. Ever buy a dyed-after-sewing garment, unpick the hem to take it up, and discover that it is pale, or even still white, on the inside of the old hem? And when I have dyed crocheted articles, the dye visibly penetrates better into the upper surface, than further down into the intertwinings of the yarn. Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com Maureen Campbell wrote: If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like Procion, I don't think it makes a difference. Anything involving hot water, though, will shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should be dyed first, then crocheted. Yay, crochet!! :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A crochet question
BTW, as someone debating whether to get rid of the 8-harness jack loom in the garage, I have a conundrum. I loved the process of weaving. But I just was not all that thrilled by hand-woven material. It was OK, and I made a lot of home-furnishings type things. But stylistically, I'm not no longer that interested in the rough-looking bedspreads, etc. that I used to make, and as for woven wall hangings, these days I'm totally uninterested. The only kind of wall hanging I'd ever consider making is a tapestry, which I never used to do, except when I learned the techniques in textile arts class. I do still like tapestries. What I was really most interested in making then was garments. Garment fabric is of course comparatively fine and very time-consuming to weave. I wanted to get on to making the garments, so it just seemed more efficient to buy fabric. The loom also has sentimental value, but given the its size, I suppose I'll eventually sell it. I just hate to ever get rid of anything. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Back in the days when I had lots of time to experiment with natural dyes on the yarn I had time to spin (Oh for the days of no kids!!) my hubby made me a set of stretchers to keep the shrinkage to a minimum. Basically, it is no more than a couple pieces of 2x4 with dowels plugged in. Before the dye bath, I would wind the yarn across the bars in a single layer with fairly firm tension. Leave on the bars until you are done immersing in the dye bath and rinse water. Dry on the bars. By keeping it under a fair amount of tension it didn't have as much opportunity to contract. The nice part is that you can construct them to fit down in whatever size tub you have for your dye bath. We were lucky to have come across some fairly deep metal pans being discarded from the VA Hospital kitchen. Worked like a charm. Good luck. --- Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Procion is not a literally cold-water dye; you need to use pretty warm water for best results. The dyeing process almost always shrinks the fibers, sometimes quite a lot. Also, the earlier in the process you dye the fibers, the more thoroughly the dye penetrates. Dyed in the fleece is better than dyed in the spun yarn, dyed in the yarn is better than dyed in the woven material, and dyed in the material is better than dyed in the made-up garment. Hence the old saying, Dyed in the wool. Ever buy a dyed-after-sewing garment, unpick the hem to take it up, and discover that it is pale, or even still white, on the inside of the old hem? And when I have dyed crocheted articles, the dye visibly penetrates better into the upper surface, than further down into the intertwinings of the yarn. Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com Maureen Campbell wrote: If you're going to use a cold-water dye, like Procion, I don't think it makes a difference. Anything involving hot water, though, will shrink cotton, so in that case, the yarn should be dyed first, then crocheted. Yay, crochet!! :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA The only twelve steps I'm interested in are the ones between the flat folds and the brocades. --Anonymous Costumer-- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
