Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts [long]

2008-06-13 Thread Robin Netherton
Back to Salome again, but only briefly, as I am loaded with work and will not 
be able to pursue this thread further (I spent way too much time online this 
week).

Suzanne wrote (among many other things in a very thoughtful and helpful post):

  I suggest that we break up the question into 2 parts:
  (1)  WHO was Salome?  In the 21st century, what does everybody know
  about her?  In the 15th century, what did everybody know about her?
  (2)  WHAT is she wearing in this depiction?  Is this style ever seen
  any where else?  Does it have an iconographic meaning?

That last question is probably even more important than the first one. What 
people knew about a religious character or story in the 15th century is the 
starting point; the key element for our purposes (interpreting an image) is 
how that knowledge became translated -- and cemented -- in artwork. And 
iconographic conventions don't always match historical, religious, or 
theological understanding. Sometimes they are holdovers from earlier eras. 
Sometimes they are the result of confusion. (Consider the images of Catherine 
of Alexandria that show her with a wedding ring in the Mystic Marriage. 
Whoops -- that's Catherine of Siena's story. Oh well.)

So, before I would feel comfortable stating what is going on in a picture like 
this one, I'd want to be reasonably familiar with how artists of that place 
and time handled that particular scene, so I could determine what elements of 
the scene were routinely repeated, and how this artist followed that 
convention, and where he chose to depart from it.

I'm afraid I don't know Salome images from 15th c. Spain. And I have not made 
a significant study of Salome depictions overall (as I have with some other 
figures). However, I do know enough Salome representations from elsewhere and 
elsewhen in Europe to hazard some guesses on *possibilities* that may be at 
play in the mind of a 15th c. artist.

Salome might be considered, and represented, as:
  -- a historical figure
  -- a religious figure
  -- a foreigner
  -- an evildoer (I know, she was just doing what her mother said, but she's 
still seen as an evildoer because she was instrumental in John the Baptist's 
death)
  -- a dancer
  -- a princess.

Thus a medieval artist might draw on any of these themes in dressing Salome; 
the choice would depend in large part on what was customary for presentations 
of that scene in his place and time.

More than one of these devices might be present at once. I have seen a c. 1300 
English illumination that depicts Salome as a dancer in one panel (and this 
is where informal dress comes into play, as she was wearing only an 
undergown in that scene) and as a princess in the adjacent panel, on the 
same page. In early 15th c. France, the Limbourg brothers gave her an odd 
little tiara (which might have meant foreigner or might have meant 
princess; it's hard to tell), and dressed her in a currently fashionable 
gown but added stripes of a type that, elsewhere in the book, appear on 
Biblical/historical/exotic figures -- and, interestingly, on a couple of 
dancing girls. (The history of stripes as a real-life marker for prostitutes 
may be relevant here as well.) Yet I have seen many, many people look at this 
Salome image and assume that because the gown is of the fashionable style, the 
stripes must be evidence of contemporary fashionable decoration. No -- they 
are some sort of marker for her character.

It would be quite extraordinary for Salome to be unmarked in 15th c. Spanish 
art; there is certainly something, maybe many things, about her dress in this 
scene that are there specifically to differentiate her from the contemporary 
fashionable woman. But without knowing what is considered normal, and what 
shows up in other religious art, and particularly what shows up in other 
Salome scenes, I can only guess at which elements are the ones you cannot 
trust. The hoop skirt might be one such element. Or it might not -- it might 
be currently fashionable dress in the Catalan style. The point is, this 
picture will never tell us, because Salome's depiction is deviant by 
definition. By the time you know enough (from a study of other artwork) to 
know how to interpret it, you'll have better evidence from elsewhere. Other 
artwork could eventually show us how to interpret Salome's dress, but Salome's 
dress can't tell us much in itself.

This post is already longer than I intended, so I'll add just one small 
clarification. Suzanne wrote:

  Going on to question #2, since the painting in question shows
  everyone fully dressed, right down to their hair and jewellery, I
  don't see any reason to re-interpret this as an informal scene.  And
  for reasons that I stated yesterday, I don't believe that the other
  [non-Salome] depictions shared by list-members need to be interpreted
  as informal scenes.

It seems I was not clear in what I meant by informal. I was not referring to 
the *scenes* as informal 

Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-13 Thread Bonnie Booker
On Thu, Jun 12, 2008 at 11:21 AM, Lynn Roth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I usually just lurk on this list and occasionally ask questions or respond.  
 My question is when making a dress like this one with a close front bodice, 
 where do you put the lacing?  I've read if it's english that it goes in the 
 back, but haven't been able to confirm or deny this.  Also, if you were doing 
 a spanish one, where would the lacing go?  Did they always use lacing in this 
 period or did they also use hookand eye, and if so where did they use 
 it.Lllynn

Juan de Alcega was printed in a later period, however the styles
seemed not to move much in Spain after the beginning of the 15th c.
There were many different styles, they were the leaders at the time.
The Hispanic Costume Book shows where they fasten up with an open
front, closed laced front, back  and side closures. I can't see what
kind of closures.
Yes, many of them with the over robe and high waist look like they
could be pregnant, even the children. What a good coverup.

-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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[h-cost] Clothing of the Renaissance World

2008-06-13 Thread Suzanne
FYI, Amazon.com is taking pre-orders for the new book about  
Vecellio's costume book, The clothing of the Renaissance world:  
Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas; Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi  
et Moderni by Margaret F. Rosenthal  Ann Rosalind Jones (Thames   
Hudson, 2008) ISBN 978-0500514269.  *Only* $91.25!  ;-)


Suzanne 
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Re: [h-cost] Clothing of the Renaissance World

2008-06-13 Thread Bella
- Original Message 
From: Suzanne [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Clothing of the Renaissance World

FYI, Amazon.com is taking pre-orders for the new book about  
Vecellio's costume book, The clothing of the Renaissance world:  
Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas; Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi  
et Moderni by Margaret F. Rosenthal  Ann Rosalind Jones (Thames   
Hudson, 2008) ISBN 978-0500514269.  *Only* $91.25!  ;-)

Suzanne
Whoa! Thank goodness I pre-ordered it a while back when it was listed at $78.75!
 

 
Bella
The Realm of Venus
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net 



  Get the name you always wanted with the new y7mail email address.
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Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

2008-06-13 Thread Ann Catelli
I was interpreting her as wearing trousers, actually, though the size of the 
webbed picture makes any firm conclusions on her outfit premature.

Ann in CT

--- On Thu, 6/12/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
  http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099 
 
 
 **
  
  
 Did y'all notice the servant in the left corner with
 the horizontal lines on her skirt, but no hoops?



  
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