Re: [h-cost] 1920s Men's bathing suit pattern

2010-01-13 Thread R Lloyd Mitchell
For a family picture two years ago, I found 'bike' style knit?underwear for the 
men(striped) in Penny's catalogue.? To these, we used black knit muscle shirts 
for the top.?This worked really well.
? The antique onsie is usually black wool knit with a buttcover length top that 
is attached to the pant described above. Since this style was in use before 
elastic or drawstring waist bands, attaching the top and bottom was necessary 
for the 'wet weight' of the garment.?
: annbw...@aol.com
Sent 1/12/2010 7:44:29 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1920s Men's bathing suit patternDoes anyone know of a sewing 
pattern for a man's 1920s bathing suit?
Google has let me down. I did find directions for a knitted one, and Past
patterns 7696 for a woman's, but a friend would like one for men, too.  Any  
help
would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Ann Wass
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[h-cost] spray adhesives

2010-01-13 Thread Kim Baird
The ONLY kind I like to use is Sulky KK2000. It is a temporary adhesive.
Everything else, especially Sullivan's, is WAY TOO STICKY, and gets
everywhere.

It's expensive, so I stock up when there's a sale.

Kim



has any one had problems with the spray adhesives for quilting?

Penny


  
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Re: [h-cost] spray adhesives

2010-01-13 Thread Penny Roberts
Thanks





From: Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Wed, January 13, 2010 8:52:03 AM
Subject: [h-cost] spray adhesives

The ONLY kind I like to use is Sulky KK2000. It is a temporary adhesive.
Everything else, especially Sullivan's, is WAY TOO STICKY, and gets
everywhere.

It's expensive, so I stock up when there's a sale.

Kim



has any one had problems with the spray adhesives for quilting?

Penny


      
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[h-cost] Job: Digital and Special Collections Curatorial Assistant, Villanova University, Villanova PA

2010-01-13 Thread Michael Foight
Apologies for cross postings, please forward to interested colleagues.  I am 
posting this here as there are some historic costume materials in the 
collection, for example, General Sherman's Civil War frock coat worn during the 
March to the Sea.  Some of the collection can be browsed at: 
http://digital.library.villanova.edu/


Digital and Special Collections Curatorial Assistant

Position Summary:

This position facilitates and supports the development of Digital Library and 
Special Collections programs, with specific responsibilities for:

· the processing, quality control, content management, and daily production 
of the Digital Library;

· collection description (cataloging and metadata development);

· exhibit development  installation (in coordination with other 
professional staff).

Also participates in library service delivery in relevant academic areas.

Duties and Responsibilities:

Primary work activities will include but not be limited to the following:

50% Management of daily operations of the Digital Library including hiring, 
training and supervising students and staff; ensures adherence to digital 
library standards and best practices, and operates scanner, image and OCR 
software;

40%  Special Collections, Rare Books  Exhibits, including metadata cataloging 
and classification; assistance in the development of Special Collections 
exhibits and participation in  the mounting of physical and Web exhibits ;

10% Library Liaison Team  user assistance duties as assigned, based on 
educational background and areas of special competence;

Other duties as assigned.

Minimum Qualifications:

Masters of Library Science or other relevant advanced degree

Two years academic library work experience, including successful installation 
of at least one public art, Web or special collection exhibit.

Familiarity with digital library processing standards and workflow.

Experience in rare book and metadata cataloging.

Experience with current computer desktop and laptop hardware, scanning software 
and digital scanners and related peripheral devices.  

Preferred Qualifications:

A second relevant masters degree desirable

Knowledge of DCRB, LCSH, Dublin Core, and LC classification systems.

Working knowledge of at least one foreign language preferred.   

TO APPLY:
ONLY ELECTRONIC APPLICATIONS WILL BE ACCEPTED: https://jobs.villanova.edu/ 
(Search Faculty Vacancies - Position #2008214)


Villanova University is an Equal Opportunity Employer and encourages the 
recruitment and retention of qualified candidates for all positions. As a 
federal contractor, Villanova University has an Affirmative Action Plan which 
is overseen by the University's Affirmative Action Officer in the Office of 
Human Resources. The University encourages members of all diverse groups to 
seek employment with the University through the Human Resources Department.





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Re: [h-cost] spray adhesives

2010-01-13 Thread Chris Laning


On Jan 13, 2010, at 6:52 AM, Kim Baird wrote:

The ONLY kind I like to use is Sulky KK2000. It is a temporary  
adhesive.

Everything else, especially Sullivan's, is WAY TOO STICKY, and gets
everywhere.

It's expensive, so I stock up when there's a sale.



Yes, TEMPORARY or RE-POSITIONABLE are the words to look for.

It might be worth comparing prices of the adhesive sold for fabric  
with the temporary spray adhesives in an art department (i.e. near the  
paintbrushes and stuff) -- I've used a couple of different brands and  
they are very handy for glue-basting. As with glue sticks, I  
strongly suspect that they may change the packaging, label it as being  
for fabric, and jack up the price, but the contents are probably  
identical to what's sold for art purposes.


BTW, the price difference between buying something from a specialized  
art store and from a crafts chain store like Michael's can also be  
pretty astonishing.


As far as I can tell, these temporary adhesives seem to wash out of  
cloth completely, but I can't vouch for what will happen decades down  
the road.


Just be sure you avoid the permanent kinds -- those are basically a  
spray version of rubber cement, and we all know what happens to *that*  
when it ages.


I discovered these because I'm a graphic designer, and this is not the  
only art tool that carries over well into textile arts: my favorite  
marker for dark fabric is a Stabilo white watercolor pencil.




OChris Laning clan...@igc.org - Davis, California
+ http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com




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Re: [h-cost] spray adhesives

2010-01-13 Thread Chris Laning
Forgot to add: yes, spray adhesive DOES get everywhere. Not something  
I would like to be breathing, either. I always do mine out on my front  
porch, with lots of newspaper around the thing I'm spraying.  
(Admittedly, living in California makes year-round front-porch  
spraying a lot more feasible...)


Also: spray the back side of the small piece you are putting down, not  
the front side of the background. Seems like common sense to me, but I  
did have to point that out to my Mom once.


I find this stuff really, really helpful for applique. It keeps  
everything nice and smooth while you are stitching it down.



OChris Laning clan...@igc.org - Davis, California
+ http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com




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Re: [h-cost] Chalking a line

2010-01-13 Thread albertcat


you could run a basting thread along the chalk line...  the couched cord will 
cover any holes from the basting, and if you use a fine needle, the holes won't 
last long anyway... this is actually Gerek's idea, he can't remember where he 
got it, but thinks it might even be a period method?? 
 

*


This is actually a time honored method from god knows when. When I worked for 
the British shop head on a film, she made us flatline things by hand...running 
a basting stitch right along the traced lines on the flatlining material. This 
really keeps the fabric in place but also you now have a completely removable 
line that shows up on both sides. It's a great way to mark fabric... if you 
have the time.






 
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Re: [h-cost] Chalking a line

2010-01-13 Thread Alexandria Doyle
I can help but think that running the basting line will take nearly as
long to do as doing the couching.  I know it won't, I just finished
the pearling on the collar and I had the pattern drawn out of muslin,
and basted to the black velvet so I could feel where the pearls were
to go...

alex

On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 5:19 PM, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote:
 If you're still worried about the chalk line lasting, you could run a
 basting thread along the chalk line...  the couched cord will cover any
 holes from the basting, and if you use a fine needle, the holes won't last
 long anyway... this is actually Gerek's idea, he can't remember where he got
 it, but thinks it might even be a period method??

 chimene

 Alexandria Doyle wrote:

 My idea to mark the placement of these lines involves a chalk line
 snapped against the silk that can then be marked with a disapearing
 marker so they last until I get to that section of the 7 inch by 5
 yards piece.   I can use a cork board with a grid marked and pins to
 get the lines at the proper angle.  What I'm wondering is about
 chalking the string.  Would rubbing a piece of chalk against the
 string between snaps be enough to have enough chalk to transfer?

 Yes, but there's another way you might like better. Instead of a string, I
 use a firm (not bendable) ruler with a sharp edge. Metal, wood, or very hard
 thin plastic work well. (For large projects, I use a wooden yardstick that
 has nice crisp corners on the long edge.) Rub cheap classroom chalk (white
 or a color) along the edge. Place the ruler, on its edge, on the fabric
 where you want the line, and slide it back and forth a couple of times in
 the direction of the line. The chalk transfers in a nice clean line. I
 wouldn't even bother using fabric marker -- just carefully roll up the
 marked fabric, and unroll it as you need it. Before you roll, you might
 cover it with a thin strip of extra fabric to keep the excess chalk from
 transferring to the back of your working fabric.

 --Robin
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-- 
So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with…
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Re: [h-cost] Frasier corset

2010-01-13 Thread Katy Bishop
We went to a costume exhibit a couple of years ago at a small museum
in Cold Spring, New York, and they had a really pretty corset pictured
in the catalogue (it was red), but in the actual exhibit it was on the
mannequin upside down!  We mentioned it to the person on duty--I
wonder if they fixed it.

The exhibit catalogue is still available:

http://www.pchs-fsm.org/pchsCatalogues.html

Katy

On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 8:25 PM,  stils...@netspace.net.au wrote:
 Just watching an old Halloween episode of Frasier:

 The Ros character is wearing a corset that appears to be on back-to-front. If
 so, tghe second-worst corset boo-boo I have seen on TV ever,

 -C.

 PS: Worst was a documentary on the children of the Russian royal family with 
 the
 daughters wearing their corsets upside-down, suspender ends flapping around
 their collars.


 
 This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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-- 
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Chalking a line

2010-01-13 Thread Carol Kocian


On Jan 13, 2010, at 2:25 PM, Alexandria Doyle wrote:

I can help but think that running the basting line will take nearly  
as long to do as doing the couching.  I know it won't, I just  
finished the pearling on the collar and I had the pattern drawn out  
of muslin, and basted to the black velvet so I could feel where  
the pearls were to go...


alex



 Thread tracing does take time, but sometimes it's worth it. I  
once had tiny pleats to make on a very woodgy fabric (grain shifted  
easily). The thread tracing took longer than it did to actually  
stitch the pleats, but was the best way to get everything in the  
right place.


 -Carol
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Re: [h-cost] Frasier corset

2010-01-13 Thread Sharon Collier
My daughter has been making a corset this past week and it is really
difficult to tell which side is up. Of course, it might get easier when it's
finished. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Katy Bishop
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 5:50 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Frasier corset

We went to a costume exhibit a couple of years ago at a small museum in Cold
Spring, New York, and they had a really pretty corset pictured in the
catalogue (it was red), but in the actual exhibit it was on the mannequin
upside down!  We mentioned it to the person on duty--I wonder if they fixed
it.

The exhibit catalogue is still available:

http://www.pchs-fsm.org/pchsCatalogues.html

Katy

On Wed, Jan 13, 2010 at 8:25 PM,  stils...@netspace.net.au wrote:
 Just watching an old Halloween episode of Frasier:

 The Ros character is wearing a corset that appears to be on 
 back-to-front. If so, tghe second-worst corset boo-boo I have seen on 
 TV ever,

 -C.

 PS: Worst was a documentary on the children of the Russian royal 
 family with the daughters wearing their corsets upside-down, suspender 
 ends flapping around their collars.


 
 This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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--
Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
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Re: [h-cost] Roman rings and Cable Ties

2010-01-13 Thread Margo Anderson
I get my roman drapery rings at JoAnne, but I was dismayed to find out  
that my local (40 miles away!) store is discontinuing them.  As  
someone else mentioned, Renaissance Fabrics is a good source.


As for cable ties, the kind I recommend are available at Home Depot.   
They'll be in the heating/air conditioning department.  Here's some  
information from the package that might be helpful:


Malco
36 Nylon Ties
Catalog Number TY34

You can also buy them online from  a number of suppliers.  Search for  
cable ties zip ties or nylon ties.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Chalking a line

2010-01-13 Thread Becky Rautine

You could always use that water soluable interfacing. Draw on it like on paper, 
then tack it to the fabric, do your handiwork... and get it wet and the 
paper-like interfacing disappears. Problem solved and in a short amount of 
time. But sometimes the prep work does take more than the actual handiwork for 
the end product. Good luck.

Sincerely,
Rebecca Rautine



 From: aqua...@patriot.net
 Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 21:37:21 -0500
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Chalking a line
 
 
 On Jan 13, 2010, at 2:25 PM, Alexandria Doyle wrote:
 
  I can help but think that running the basting line will take nearly  
  as long to do as doing the couching.  I know it won't, I just  
  finished the pearling on the collar and I had the pattern drawn out  
  of muslin, and basted to the black velvet so I could feel where  
  the pearls were to go...
 
  alex
 
 
   Thread tracing does take time, but sometimes it's worth it. I  
 once had tiny pleats to make on a very woodgy fabric (grain shifted  
 easily). The thread tracing took longer than it did to actually  
 stitch the pleats, but was the best way to get everything in the  
 right place.
 
   -Carol
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Re: [h-cost] 1920s Men's bathing suit pattern

2010-01-13 Thread Pierre Sandy Pettinger
When you make it, just be aware of the characteristics of your fabric 
when it's wet.


A friend made a set of vintage bathing costumes for herself and her 
husband.  His was black and white striped knit fabric, just a bit 
heavier than T-shirt fabric.  He was having a great time in the pool, 
until he went to get out of it - the fabric had become fairly 
transparent - showing everyone a lot more than he'd 
planned!  :-}  He had to stay in the water till some kind soul 
brought him a towel.  Much blushing (his) and giggling (ours) resulted.


Sandy

At 08:46 AM 1/13/2010, you wrote:
For a family picture two years ago, I found 'bike' style 
knit?underwear for the men(striped) in Penny's catalogue.? To these, 
we used black knit muscle shirts for the top.?This worked really well.
? The antique onsie is usually black wool knit with a buttcover 
length top that is attached to the pant described above. Since this 
style was in use before elastic or drawstring waist bands, attaching 
the top and bottom was necessary for the 'wet weight' of the garment.?

: annbw...@aol.com
Sent 1/12/2010 7:44:29 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] 1920s Men's bathing suit patternDoes anyone know 
of a sewing pattern for a man's 1920s bathing suit?

Google has let me down. I did find directions for a knitted one, and Past
patterns 7696 for a woman's, but a friend would like one for men, 
too.  Any  help

would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Ann Wass


Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda 


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