Re: [h-cost] 1930s Joan of Arc reenactment (color photos)

[Astrida Schaeffer]

I… I think I’m in love with the cloche hennins.

Astrida

> On Apr 21, 2016, at 11:23 AM, Lynn Downward  wrote:
> 
> Very cool, thanks for sharing. I'm going with awesome and not nitpick.
> LynnD
> 
> On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 1:20 AM, Elena House  wrote:
> 
>> http://mashable.com/2016/04/18/joan-of-arc-festival/
>> This is a collection of photos from the 1932 Joan of Arc festival
>> in Compiégne.  The garb is both very nitpickable, and very awesome.
>> 
>> -E House
>> ___
>> h-costume mailing list
>> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> 
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Embellishments exhibition

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Hi everyone—

Heads up to anyone interested in late 19th c. dress, the Embellishments: 
Constructing Victorian Detail exhibition from a couple of years ago is having 
it’s likely last hurrah showing at the Portsmouth Athenaeum in Portsmouth NH. 
These are the garments featured in the book by the same name. Info on hours, 
directions, etc. is at http://www.portsmouthathenaeum.org, it will be up till 
Nov. 6.

Astrida
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Embellishments the book, and the traveling exhibition

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Like Fran, I'd like to beg your indulgence and mention my book, Embellishments: 
Constructing Victorian Detail, available at www.schaefferarts.com. Focusing on 
the last quarter of the 19th c., it showcases dresses from the collection at 
the Univ. of NH with full color photos, detail photos, and how-to diagrams.

I'd also like to let everyone know that the exhibition, which closed March 
2013, will be traveling to the Quilt Museum in Lowell Massachusetts January 
22-March 22, 2014. There will be a white-glove curator's tour on Feb. 6, and a 
full day technique workshop on Feb. 8. Not all the items from the UNH showing 
will make the trip, but the 13 dresses that formed the bulk of the exhibition 
will be there, along with the close-up panels and touch samples. Hope to see 
you there!

Astrida
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book

[Astrida Schaeffer]

:D

That's about as big a grin as I know how to make with emoticons.

Glad you like it!!

Astrida

On Jul 4, 2013, at 12:26 PM, Lauren Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote:

 I had a wretched day trying to get the chiffon to pleat yesterday. I'm 
 leaving the dress alone for a day so that when I look at it again I won't 
 just automatically assume it must all be started over. But I think this may 
 be the dress where I really do, possibly using a different fabric. What I 
 can't accept is that the original was done in crepe de chîne -- because the 
 crepes I've worked with in the past won't pleat, either. Crepe is much too 
 thick for this doll dress, but the chiffon -- which is very sheer, very soft, 
 and very light (no organza stiffness to lose, but the pleats vanish when it 
 gets damp) and which I chose because it wouldn't build up an unacceptable 
 bulk, as well as because it's iridescent, might just be the wrong cloth. I 
 may try starching a couple of test pieces and seeing if that's an answer -- I 
 think with this fabric I'd want to leave the starch in anyway.
 
 BUT Astrida's beautiful book arrived yesterday, too. So now I can, if I want 
 to, follow her excellent and clear instructions for pleating, and use a 
 vinegar pressing cloth to try to set them. I put a little vinegar in the 
 spritzing water for my first attempts but nowhere near a 1:1 ratio and did 
 not use a cloth nor let the pleats rest. So I have those to try before I 
 throw in the towel on this one. 
 
 Plus this gorgeous book! With these really nice, consistent, clearly 
 diagrammed instructions. If this is what a Kickstarter-funded, 
 artisan-controlled book can be like, the future could be much more fun than 
 I've recently been imagining!
 
 Lauren
 Lauren M. Walker
 lauren.wal...@comcast.net
 
 
 
 On Jun 30, 2013, at 1:59 PM, Cin wrote:
 
 A note of caution:  Rinsing out the starch may also rinse out the
 finish of your organza making it limp or less shiny. Test first.
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com
 
 
 On Sat, Jun 29, 2013 at 6:16 PM, Lauren Walker
 lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote:
 Thanks -- I was wondering how to stabilize it. Starch is a good suggestion.
 Lauren M. Walker
 lauren.wal...@comcast.net
 
 
 
 On Jun 29, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
 
 Do you starch your chiffon before working with it? That may help and after
 it's pleated and the pleats are tacked down, you can rinse out the starch.
 Sharon C.
 
 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of Lauren Walker
 Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 9:08 AM
 To: Historical Costume
 Subject: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book
 
 Oh, dear. I was just going to check in to complain that if I EVER finish 
 the
 current project it's going to be YEARS before I work with chiffon in 1/12th
 scale again, and here I see Astrida has a whole book on how to really *do*
 these embellishments where I've been winging it. I'm torn between buying a
 copy now and waiting until I'm done with the doll project so I don't feel I
 have to tear everything apart and start over.
 
 I mean, I did just pause to go order the book, because books always win.
 
 But I'm just about to do the accordion pleats (Godey's calls them
 accordion pleats) for the skirt on the gown on the left here:
 http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176890;view=1up;seq=511
 
 for the tiny Grodnerthal doll (I've got the bodice done although there are
 things with which I'm not satisfied so it might get done over--the pleating
 ended up not crossing above the belt, and I'm not sure I can stand it) and
 I'm not sure whether it would help or not to know what I am doing!
 
 Anyway I'm looking forward to my copy of the book! And to moving on to the
 fourth and last outfit in the doll project, which is the one on the right 
 in
 this plate:
 http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109
 which I'm working in a striped cotton and a sheer wool challis. Which will
 have their own problems, but will at least not be this insanely delicate
 chiffon.
 By the way, Godey's calls the hat a flat leghorn -- looking at some other
 hats from the late 1880s, some did not have crowns, or the crown was filled
 in with the scarf material. Would any of you hazard a guess about this
 particular hat?
 
 Thanks! I'm going to be so happy to go back to human-sized 18th-century
 wools and linens. Fabrics you can't hurt even with a blowtorch and a 
 hammer!
 Lauren
 
 Lauren M. Walker
 lauren.wal...@comcast.net
 
 
 
 On Jun 17, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Terry wrote:
 
 I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book
 Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail.  I mean I JUST got it
 (5 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it
 looks beautiful.  Can't wait to read it!
 
 
 
 Terry Walker
 
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 

Re: [h-cost] Astrida's Book

[Astrida Schaeffer]

On deadline this week, will get you info as soon as I can!

Astrida

On Jun 25, 2013, at 8:51 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Tue, Jun 25, 2013 at 2:24 PM, Astrida Schaeffer
 astr...@schaefferarts.com wrote:
 Oh, and the coat is going to be on Wardrobe Unlock'd in August!
 
 On Jun 19, 2013, at 1:18 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Mine arrived yesterday  it's a lovely review of the best techniques
 for the period. I'm completely in love with the Deco wool coat with
 the crazy-wide lapels.  Do I want a pattern? Absolutely!
 
 Thrilling news.  It's truly lovely and marvelously dramatic.  What
 fun. Looking forward to seeing a croquis of the pattern.  That'd be
 enough for me to figure it out.
 
 Can you point us at other photos from the exhibit?  There's a teal
 item in the background of one of the show pics, a waist I'd like to
 see more of.
 
 On Tue, Jun 25, 2013 at 2:23 PM, Astrida Schaeffer
 astr...@schaefferarts.com wrote:
 Hmmm, a teal waist... is it the one with lots of vertical pleats? and the 
 Grecian key detail at the neckline?
 
 Yes, I think that's it. Page 109, bottom photo, far right.
 
 There are some exhibition photos on my schaefferarts website but pretty much 
 what's already in the book. I can try to PM you some pics since I don't 
 think I can  post them to the group?
 
 You are correct. We cant post to h-costume's photo page.  Stupid
 spammers spoiled our fun.
 
 I'm trying to figure out what that waist is made of, how it closes,
 what sort of interior structure it has, that sort of thing.  Velvet
 ribbon applied onto organdy (surely not)?  Seersucker of some sort?
 Woven velvet stripes?
 
 Thanks much for all your help,
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Astrida's Book

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Sorry for the reply delay, it's been a zoo around here

Glad you like the book!

Hmmm, a teal waist... is it the one with lots of vertical pleats? and the 
Grecian key detail at the neckline?

There are some exhibition photos on my schaefferarts website but pretty much 
what's already in the book. I can try to PM you some pics since I don't think I 
can  post them to the group?

Astrida

On Jun 19, 2013, at 1:18 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote:

 Mine arrived yesterday  it's a lovely review of the best techniques
 for the period. I'm completely in love with the Deco wool coat with
 the crazy-wide lapels.  Do I want a pattern? Absolutely!
 
 Can you point us at other photos from the exhibit?  There's a teal
 item in the background of one of the show pics, a waist I'd like to
 see more of.
 
 Thank you Astrida  good job!
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com
 
 
 On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 6:00 AM, Astrida Schaeffer
 astr...@schaefferarts.com wrote:
 Thanks, everyone! It's a bit surreal to finally be holding it in my hands. 
 This has been a while in the making!
 
 Astrida
 
 
 On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:29 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I got mine today too, and it looks gorgeous!  Thanks, Astrida!
 
 Emily
 
 
 On 6/17/2013 2:39 PM, Terry wrote:
 I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book
 Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail.  I mean I JUST got it (5
 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it looks
 beautiful.  Can't wait to read it!
 
 
 Terry Walker
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 .
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Astrida's Book

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Oh, and the coat is going to be on Wardrobe Unlock'd in August!


On Jun 19, 2013, at 1:18 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote:

 Mine arrived yesterday  it's a lovely review of the best techniques
 for the period. I'm completely in love with the Deco wool coat with
 the crazy-wide lapels.  Do I want a pattern? Absolutely!
 
 Can you point us at other photos from the exhibit?  There's a teal
 item in the background of one of the show pics, a waist I'd like to
 see more of.
 
 Thank you Astrida  good job!
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com
 
 
 On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 6:00 AM, Astrida Schaeffer
 astr...@schaefferarts.com wrote:
 Thanks, everyone! It's a bit surreal to finally be holding it in my hands. 
 This has been a while in the making!
 
 Astrida
 
 
 On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:29 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I got mine today too, and it looks gorgeous!  Thanks, Astrida!
 
 Emily
 
 
 On 6/17/2013 2:39 PM, Terry wrote:
 I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book
 Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail.  I mean I JUST got it (5
 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it looks
 beautiful.  Can't wait to read it!
 
 
 Terry Walker
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 .
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Astrida's Book

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Thanks, everyone! It's a bit surreal to finally be holding it in my hands. This 
has been a while in the making!

Astrida


On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:29 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote:

 I got mine today too, and it looks gorgeous!  Thanks, Astrida!
 
 Emily
 
 
 On 6/17/2013 2:39 PM, Terry wrote:
 I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book
 Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail.  I mean I JUST got it (5
 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it looks
 beautiful.  Can't wait to read it!
 
  
 Terry Walker
 
  
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 .
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] One more about the Embellishments book

[Astrida Schaeffer]

It's taken longer than I thought, but I just got word that my Kickstarter has 
been approved. So for those interested in checking it out, it's at 
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1285190256/embellishments-constructing-victorian-detail

At the very least it has nice images of some of the dresses!

The Kickstarter has a variety of pledge levels which include a number of gifts; 
if you simply want to pre-order a book you can still go to 
www.schaefferarts.com/embellishments

Many thanks!

Astrida
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Astrida Schaeffer]

If you come in the evening from 5-7, I'll be there too to answer questions. 
Glad you're getting to see the show!

Astrida

On Mar 14, 2013, at 2:08 PM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hooray!  Some friends and I are going to see the exhibit next Thursday,
 can't wait, it looks beautiful.
 
 Katy
 
 On Thu, Mar 14, 2013 at 2:02 PM, Astrida Schaeffer 
 astr...@schaefferarts.com wrote:
 
 Hi everyone--
 
 The Victorian embellishments book is finally well on its way through the
 design process, and I have a date (end of April) for it to get to the
 printer. I'm expecting copies in hand by mid-June.
 
 Pre-orders (and many more images of the exhibition) are now at
 www.schaeffferarts.com/embellishments. All pre-orders go toward printing
 costs! I'll also be posting a Kickstarter, hopefully tomorrow, with the
 same goal: raising printing money.
 
 If you pre-order from my site, it will be $30 plus shipping until mid-May;
 if you go through Kickstarter there will be many options with pledges of
 $50 or more including a book as well as other goodies.
 
 Thanks for all the interest!
 
 Astrida Schaeffer
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian
 katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com
 Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era.
  Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books.
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Yes, all women's I'm afraid ...




On Mar 15, 2013, at 4:19 PM, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote:

 Just looked at your photos, could you please confirm that the exhibit and 
 book deal exclusively with women's garments? (My husband is interested in 
 men's Victorian fashion, as a foundation for his Steampunk interests, for 
 himself.) 
 
 thanks much,
 chimene
 
 On Mar 14, 2013, at 11:02 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:
 
 Hi everyone--
 
 The Victorian embellishments book is finally well on its way through the 
 design process, and I have a date (end of April) for it to get to the 
 printer. I'm expecting copies in hand by mid-June.
 ...
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Hi everyone--

The Victorian embellishments book is finally well on its way through the design 
process, and I have a date (end of April) for it to get to the printer. I'm 
expecting copies in hand by mid-June. 

Pre-orders (and many more images of the exhibition) are now at 
www.schaeffferarts.com/embellishments. All pre-orders go toward printing costs! 
I'll also be posting a Kickstarter, hopefully tomorrow, with the same goal: 
raising printing money.

If you pre-order from my site, it will be $30 plus shipping until mid-May; if 
you go through Kickstarter there will be many options with pledges of $50 or 
more including a book as well as other goodies.

Thanks for all the interest!

Astrida Schaeffer
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] costume exhibit book

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Design up through March 22 in Durham NH, 
website is www.izaak.unh.edu/museum. I'd hoped to put up links to more photos 
than that site has by last Friday but got swamped; it's on my to do list for 
today and will post here when it's up. In the meantime, I do have some photos 
up on my professional FB page, SchaefferArts Costume Exhibition  Care if 
anyone wants a look.

Also, I have been making a list of everyone who's wanted to go on the 
notification list for when the book does finally come out, so if I haven't 
individually acknowledged you, never fear!

Astrida

On Feb 3, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com wrote:

 Drat - I missed it...what exhibit?
 
 On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:42 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey 
 mary.d...@pierocarey.info wrote:
 
 me! Me!
 put me on the list, too!
 
 Mary Piero Carey
 __**_
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 -Sg-
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Some images from Embellishments

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Hi everyone--

I finally got to posting some installation shots from the Embellishments 
exhibition. They're at my webpage, http://schaefferarts.com/portfolio.html, 
just scroll down. Enjoy, and I hope you can come see the show! I think I said, 
but there's also an 1860 dress and two early 20th c. suits not pictured, plus a 
few other things, and also nine big close up shots of embellishment details in 
the show that illustrate specific design techniques or ways of thinking. And a 
case of Godey's and Delineators too.


Astrida

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments book

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Yes-- please feel free to write me directly, me too posts take up bandwidth 
for everyone else. (Thank you all for the interest, apologies for inadvertently 
becoming an issue).

Astrida


On Feb 4, 2013, at 6:22 PM, michaeljdeib...@gmail.com 
michaeljdeib...@gmail.com wrote:

 While I appreciate the details and discussing the exhibit and book, can we 
 please refrain from replying only to say please add my name to the list?
 
 If I recall, Astrida has said that once the details regarding purchasing the 
 book are settled, they will be posted on here for all to know. Perhaps a 
 quick private email to Astirda if you wish to e added to the list would've 
 better suffice rather than fill our inboxes? Thanks! 
 
 Michael Deibert
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Feb 4, 2013, at 18:15, Kimberly Prack kpr...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 Please add my name to your list as well.  Kimberly 
 wageman-prackkpr...@hotmail.com
 To: h-cost...@indra.com
 From: fyneha...@aol.com
 Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 16:47:01 -0500
 Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments book
 
 
 Dear Astrida,
 
 Please add my name to your book list as well.
 
 Donna Scarfe
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-request h-costume-requ...@indra.com
 To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Sent: Mon, Feb 4, 2013 1:01 pm
 Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 12, Issue 26
 
 
 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to
   h-costume@mail.indra.com
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
   http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
   h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
   h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of h-costume digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
  1. Re: checking on a merchant (llwa...@juno.com)
  2. Re: costume exhibit book (Astrida Schaeffer)
  3. Re: costume exhibit book (R Lloyd Mitchell)
  4. Re: costume exhibit book (Charlene  Paul Roberts)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 14:00:45 GMT
 From: llwa...@juno.com llwa...@juno.com
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] checking on a merchant
 Message-ID: 20130204.080045.1314...@webmail12.vgs.untd.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
 Um, all you gave was the main page for the site.  What is the
 shoe style's name so it can be found?
 
 -RC
 
 
 Sorry about that -- I'm leaning toward the Connie.  The heel style on the 
 Cheri 
 is a closer match, but I'd have to get it redyed leather-brown since it 
 doesn't 
 come in natural.  (And it's a left/right shoe; straight last is more 
 appropriate 
 for this outfit.)
 
 Leah
 
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 2
 Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 09:12:17 -0500
 From: Astrida Schaeffer astr...@schaefferarts.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume exhibit book
 Message-ID: d994a7b0-4903-4ec5-a017-2a87d975b...@schaefferarts.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Design up through March 22 in Durham 
 NH, 
 website is www.izaak.unh.edu/museum. I'd hoped to put up links to more 
 photos 
 than that site has by last Friday but got swamped; it's on my to do list 
 for 
 today and will post here when it's up. In the meantime, I do have some 
 photos up 
 on my professional FB page, SchaefferArts Costume Exhibition  Care if 
 anyone 
 wants a look.
 
 Also, I have been making a list of everyone who's wanted to go on the 
 notification list for when the book does finally come out, so if I haven't 
 individually acknowledged you, never fear!
 
 Astrida
 
 On Feb 3, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Drat - I missed it...what exhibit?
 
 On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:42 AM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey 
 mary.d...@pierocarey.info wrote:
 
 me! Me!
 put me on the list, too!
 
 Mary Piero Carey
 __**_
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 -Sg-
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 3
 Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 09:47:48 -0500
 From: R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@washjeff.edu
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume exhibit book
 Message-ID:
   e654c574e9ca2143b34235488f1c5f8c010be6cb8...@exch-mstore.washjeff.edu
 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 I likewise would like to be on the Book list. I spend summers in Dunbarton, 
 my 
 home town. Always interested  in what is going on at UNH.
 Kathleen mitchell
 
 
 From: h-costume-boun

Re: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments exhibit

[Astrida Schaeffer]

All who have expressed interest here so far are on the list ;) and I promise to 
keep h-cost updated as well.

Astrida
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments exhibit

[Astrida Schaeffer]

I'll send a blanket, but also directly to those who expressed interest. As I 
can personally attest, members come and go! ;)

Astrida

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 29, 2013, at 6:28 PM, Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Me too please! Or will you just send a blanket email to hcostume?
 Lynn
 
 On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 3:21 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.comwrote:
 
 Count me in!
 
 Emily
 
 
 On 1/29/2013 11:50 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:
 
 All who have expressed interest here so far are on the list ;) and I
 promise to keep h-cost updated as well.
 
 Astrida
 __**_
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/**listinfo/h-costumehttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Hi everyone--

I am subscribed to h-cost but have not been able to actually participate or 
even lurk for a long time, so when Marjorie wrote to the museum at which the 
exhibition I curated, Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail, is 
currently showing I confess I had a total DOH!! moment. I should have let you 
all know about it when it first opened! But the show is up through March 23 and 
as she wrote on my behalf, there will, at some point this year, be a book 
related to the project. The book will be a blend of coffee table book and 
how-to guide for making the kinds of embellishments on view. I will be posting 
a link later this week to an overview of the exhibition, not just the one 
rotating dress currently on the official museum web site. But in the meantime, 
here are some teasers, I hope they post. And if any of you are in the Durham, 
NH vicinity, I hope you come see the show!

Best wishes to all of you,

Astrida Schaeffer

  All are c. 1880
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Drat, the photos stripped out... I will have lovely images up on my website by 
the end of this week, I promise!

Astrida

On Jan 28, 2013, at 3:24 PM, Astrida Schaeffer astr...@schaefferarts.com 
wrote:

 Hi everyone--
 
 I am subscribed to h-cost but have not been able to actually participate or 
 even lurk for a long time, so when Marjorie wrote to the museum at which the 
 exhibition I curated, Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail, is 
 currently showing I confess I had a total DOH!! moment. I should have let you 
 all know about it when it first opened! But the show is up through March 23 
 and as she wrote on my behalf, there will, at some point this year, be a book 
 related to the project. The book will be a blend of coffee table book and 
 how-to guide for making the kinds of embellishments on view. I will be 
 posting a link later this week to an overview of the exhibition, not just the 
 one rotating dress currently on the official museum web site. But in the 
 meantime, here are some teasers, I hope they post. And if any of you are in 
 the Durham, NH vicinity, I hope you come see the show!
 
 Best wishes to all of you,
 
 Astrida Schaeffer
 
  All are c. 1880
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Beautiful, Zuzana!! Is that your fabric as well? I seem to recall you were 
going to be making reproductions of it. Stunning!

Astrida 


On Dec 6, 2011, at 5:11 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

 Hi,
 
 I checked all I could find out (year 1999 mostly, then something from 2000), 
 but didn't find an answer to what I'm searching for. You were discussing bit 
 different things. Maybe I just missed some important post?
 So were the grandes assiettes sleeves pictured in one colour, and the body 
 in another, one garment? I read the Adrien Harmand's book and it semms she 
 thinks it was one garment.
 
 Do you have this monograph from Musee de Tissus? How it's called? Where can I 
 get it? I am very curious about the theory of the under vest. I've done 
 various pourpoints of this style, but as I didn't find any info on how the 
 chest wast stuffed, I just put two small cushions on either side of the 
 chest, hidden by the lining, which made the large chest in the end. This 
 technique works well for quilted garments, but not so well for anything 
 without stuffing, because the soft fabric will dip in at the front opening. 
 See my last charles de Blois attempt here: 
 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150367778803721.352533.294387883720type=3
 
 Just one observation I have to follow on some of the 12 year old discussions 
 - I think the grande assiette sleeve is easy to construct once you know how. 
 You can do any form of sleeve, whether tight fitting, bag, or wide at the 
 bottom. I will be writing a detailed tutorial on how to do this once I get to 
 it. Would you folks be interested?
 
 Zuzana
 
 _
 www.sartor.cz 
 
 
 --- On Tue, 12/6/11, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tuesday, December 6, 2011, 1:56 AM
 In a monograph published by the Musee
 des Tissus (Lyons), the Charles
 de Blois pourpoint is conjectured to be worn over a
 vest-like thing
 that held all the stuffing for the fashionable high puff
 chest.  This
 particular example has the sleeves  body of the gament
 all in the
 same fabric.
 We discussed this pourpoint, the account books from the
 Dukes of
 Lorraine,  Jeanne d'Arc  the records from her
 trial waaay-back. Check
 the h-cost archives.
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com
 
 
 
 On Sat, Dec 3, 2011 at 4:54 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova zkraemer...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
 Hi there,
 
 I am searching for evidence for the grandes assiettes
 sleeve construction from the 14th and 15th centuries, the
 type with two coloured garment - sleeves in one colour,
 bodice in another. Like this: 
 http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/grande_assiette/Sachsenspiegel_large.jpg
 
 Do you know whether this was one garment made from two
 fabrics, or two separate garments, the upper being a
 vest-sort of thing? I know this is often discussed, but has
 anyone already found an answer to this question?
 
 Thanks a lot,
 
 Zuzana
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer

[Astrida Schaeffer]

You know, Zuzana, a thought--

Looking at your photos again, it strikes me that it almost looks like two 
different fabrics, because the body is on the straight grain and the sleeves 
are on the bias, and they reflect light differently. I always hesitate to put 
thoughts into long-ago minds, but it doesn't seem unlikely to me that someone 
would have seen a similar effect and decided to take the next step, actually 
using a different color. 

Astrida

On Dec 6, 2011, at 5:11 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

 Hi,
 
 I checked all I could find out (year 1999 mostly, then something from 2000), 
 but didn't find an answer to what I'm searching for. You were discussing bit 
 different things. Maybe I just missed some important post?
 So were the grandes assiettes sleeves pictured in one colour, and the body 
 in another, one garment? I read the Adrien Harmand's book and it semms she 
 thinks it was one garment.
 
 Do you have this monograph from Musee de Tissus? How it's called? Where can I 
 get it? I am very curious about the theory of the under vest. I've done 
 various pourpoints of this style, but as I didn't find any info on how the 
 chest wast stuffed, I just put two small cushions on either side of the 
 chest, hidden by the lining, which made the large chest in the end. This 
 technique works well for quilted garments, but not so well for anything 
 without stuffing, because the soft fabric will dip in at the front opening. 
 See my last charles de Blois attempt here: 
 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150367778803721.352533.294387883720type=3
 
 Just one observation I have to follow on some of the 12 year old discussions 
 - I think the grande assiette sleeve is easy to construct once you know how. 
 You can do any form of sleeve, whether tight fitting, bag, or wide at the 
 bottom. I will be writing a detailed tutorial on how to do this once I get to 
 it. Would you folks be interested?
 
 Zuzana
 
 _
 www.sartor.cz 
 
 
 --- On Tue, 12/6/11, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Date: Tuesday, December 6, 2011, 1:56 AM
 In a monograph published by the Musee
 des Tissus (Lyons), the Charles
 de Blois pourpoint is conjectured to be worn over a
 vest-like thing
 that held all the stuffing for the fashionable high puff
 chest.  This
 particular example has the sleeves  body of the gament
 all in the
 same fabric.
 We discussed this pourpoint, the account books from the
 Dukes of
 Lorraine,  Jeanne d'Arc  the records from her
 trial waaay-back. Check
 the h-cost archives.
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com
 
 
 
 On Sat, Dec 3, 2011 at 4:54 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova zkraemer...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
 Hi there,
 
 I am searching for evidence for the grandes assiettes
 sleeve construction from the 14th and 15th centuries, the
 type with two coloured garment - sleeves in one colour,
 bodice in another. Like this: 
 http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/grande_assiette/Sachsenspiegel_large.jpg
 
 Do you know whether this was one garment made from two
 fabrics, or two separate garments, the upper being a
 vest-sort of thing? I know this is often discussed, but has
 anyone already found an answer to this question?
 
 Thanks a lot,
 
 Zuzana
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Storing a wedding gown.

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Gaylord and University Products both sell acid free boxes as well as acid free 
tissue. Well-laundered white cotton sheets (no perfumes or dryer sheets) will 
also do. 

From what I understand, your friend is wise to do this herself, it's 
apparently often a rip-off industry.

Astrida


On Oct 26, 2011, at 1:59 PM, albert...@aol.com wrote:

 Greetings Earthings,
 
 
 A friend wants to pack up her wedding gown for safe keeping but didn' like 
 the price of having someone do it for her. The gown is not silk or anything. 
 It's all synthetic I think. (It's really beautiful even if it is synthetic) I 
 told her she just needs to stuff it and wrap it in acid free tissue paper and 
 put it in a box that is not plastic. I remember we used to store things in 
 the costume shop at school, and also a friend of mine that collected vintage, 
 in waxed cardboard boxes.
 
 
 Was my advice sound, d'ya think?
 
 
 Also, I don't know a source for acid free tissue or boxes anymore but I 
 confess, I haven't done a search online or anything yet.
 
 
 Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 
 
 Gray Hunter
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] mystery term

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Hi--

Thanks to all who've tried to help on this one! I came across the term through 
a friend who saw a dress exhibited with that as part of its description, and 
she was curious and asked me the costume expert. (um…). I don't generally 
deal with this period, and tried searching, and got nothing at all. So at least 
now I have a little something, thank you! I'm going to try contacting the 
museum and seeing if anyone there actually can explain it. And if they can, 
I'll share with the list.

Astrida
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] mystery term

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Anyone ever heard of a hesitation hem???


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Nothing but air and the whiff of possibility….

Astrida

 It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties,
 winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair,
 theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You
 might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale.  Whatever
 the reason, h-costumers are probably making something.  So, what's
 your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com
 


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] 1879-80 trim conundrum-- HELP!

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Hi--

I am in the process of making a mannequin for a going-away dress from 1879-80. 
And I have bumped into something I've never seen before. Any suggestions/ideas 
would be appreciated!

The gown's floor-length skirt has a shorter, integral, bustled layer. Just 
beneath the lower drape of the bustle, sewn into the lining and exposed if you 
lift the bustle drape, are a set of buttons, to which the skirt's separate 
train can be attached. It's a lovely solution to train/no train needs! 

BUT. 

The train has a piece of trim coming off of it which seems to be intended to go 
around the front of the skirt, which if true would rather get in the way of the 
helpful functionality of the removable train. It's a band of fabric pleats, 
nicely finished on both gathered and splayed edges. Its angle coming off of the 
train is definitely a continuation of the line it has on the train (in other 
words, it doesn't look like it goes up the skirt but rather keeps going at hem 
level, and it's one-sided so it definitely doesn't loop back on itself onto the 
train either). The trim is a closed loop sewn into the train, beginning and 
ending off of the train. With the train in place and the trim brought to the 
front of the skirt, the loop matches the circumference of the skirt (and looks 
right). It sure SEEMS to be intended to go around the front hem of the dress. 
But there are no pin holes, no stitch holes, no thread remnants, no indication 
of how it might have been attached, either on th!
 e trim or on the skirt. The fabric is silk taffeta, so it would show such 
evidence. And it is known that this dress was worn (even who wore it.) The 
train had definitely been used, the band with the buttonholes was shredded from 
dealing with the weight and the skirt itself had damage at the back waistline 
from the weight as well.

And if this trim loop WERE meant to go around the front of the skirt, it would 
fall right where you'd trip over it/tear it if it weren't well applied, as the 
line seems to demand being attached directly above the brush braid. The inside 
of the trim does seem a bit dirtier than on the train, where it has an 
additional layer of fabric beneath it.

But no holes showing it was ever attached to anything! And why would you do 
something requiring tedious pinning/sewing when the rest of the train was an 
easy on/off solution?

Any ideas? I'm baffled.

Astrida
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] 1879-80 trim conundrum-- HELP!

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Good point.
I've examined the trim loop with a magnifying glass, though,  and still can't 
find any attachment holes. Hmmm… Since it does seem to so clearly belong at the 
skirt hem, perhaps I'll suggest either a minimum pin job or really large 
basting stitches to the curator.

On Sep 20, 2011, at 4:03 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

  But no holes showing it was ever attached to anything! And why would you do 
  something requiring tedious pinning/sewing when the rest of the train was 
  an easy on/off solution? Any ideas? I'm baffled. Astrida
 
 In the 19th-century, it was quite common for women to hand baste accessories 
 and other parts onto a garment to change the look, even though this seems 
 labor intensive from our point of view.  This made the wardrobe more 
 flexible, almost larger, without costing much more money.
 
 Bear in mind that the wearer did not necessarily want to alter the 
 with-train/without-train look every time she wore the garment. She could 
 easily have decided to wear the train for a number of events in a row.  She 
 even might have added the train for an entire season, as in This season 
 trains are in fashion,  but I can always remove this one next season if they 
 go out of fashion.
 
 Fran
 Lavolta Press
 Books on making historic clothing
 www.lavoltapress.com
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] 1879-80 trim conundrum-- HELP!

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Cleaning is certainly a possibility, though the dress seems to have avoided 
alteration in any other aspect. At any rate, thanks!


On Sep 20, 2011, at 6:01 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

 If someone cleaned the garment at any point since it was worn last, this may 
 be enough to have made any thread holes disappear.
 
 Something else I as a clothing collector have sometimes run into, is the 
 remodeling project some Victorian or Edwardian abandoned partway through.
 
 Fran
 Lavolta Press
 www.lavoltapress.com
 
 On 9/20/2011 2:37 PM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:
 Good point.
 I've examined the trim loop with a magnifying glass, though,  and still 
 can't find any attachment holes. Hmmm… Since it does seem to so clearly 
 belong at the skirt hem, perhaps I'll suggest either a minimum pin job or 
 really large basting stitches to the curator.
 
 On Sep 20, 2011, at 4:03 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:
 
 But no holes showing it was ever attached to anything! And why would you 
 do something requiring tedious pinning/sewing when the rest of the train 
 was an easy on/off solution? Any ideas? I'm baffled. Astrida
 In the 19th-century, it was quite common for women to hand baste 
 accessories and other parts onto a garment to change the look, even though 
 this seems labor intensive from our point of view.  This made the wardrobe 
 more flexible, almost larger, without costing much more money.
 
 Bear in mind that the wearer did not necessarily want to alter the 
 with-train/without-train look every time she wore the garment. She could 
 easily have decided to wear the train for a number of events in a row.  She 
 even might have added the train for an entire season, as in This season 
 trains are in fashion,  but I can always remove this one next season if 
 they go out of fashion.
 
 Fran
 Lavolta Press
 Books on making historic clothing
 www.lavoltapress.com
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Dressing a Victorian Lady

[Astrida Schaeffer]

I have a friend who did a bodice ripper presentation at a costume con-- IIRC 
she ended up getting dragged offstage via the intact and unaffected corset by 
the frustrated would-be ripper...


On Jul 20, 2011, at 7:09 AM, Sharon Henderson wrote:

 Hi folks,
 
 I saw this on the Wall Street Journal site, of all places.  It's an
 article with a slideshow and an amusing video, about a lady who writes
 historical romances--and wanted to get her steamy scenes right.  :)
 
 http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304911104576443871615544338.html
 
 Fun stuff.  I've seen a similar show for how Queen Elizabeth I would
 have been dressed by her ladies.
 
 Cheers,
 Meli
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Further information on 15th-century archeological finds

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Wonderful, thank you!

Astrida


On Jul 1, 2011, at 2:27 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

 The lecture was given at:
 
 http://www.nesat.org/pdf/Program_in_detail.pdf
 
 And if you want to contact the author for more information, a two-minute web
 search revealed her email in this document:
 
 http://www.minesdespiennes.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Vienna-2010-UISPP\
 -Commission-program-+-list-18.9.2010.pdf 
 http://www.minesdespiennes.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Vienna-2010-UISPP-Commission-program-+-list-18.9.2010.pdf
 
 Here is what seems to be a related article:
 
 http://www.uibk.ac.at/urgeschichte/institut/mitarbeiter./wissenschaftl/harald.stadler/schloss-lengberg/harpfe-dec-2010.pdf
 
 
 Fran
 Lavolta Press
 Books on making historic clothing
 Two new books of 1880s patterns!
 www.lavoltapress.com
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Azalea Trail Maids: Antebellum Costumes

[Astrida Schaeffer]

AAAUUUGGGHHH



On Jun 17, 2011, at 9:53 AM, Hope Greenberg wrote:

 
 Oh my! Just thinking of all those ruffles makes my head spin
 http://www.mobileazaleatrail.com/
 
 
 - Hope
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Hair styles

[Astrida Schaeffer]

That's wonderful! And I just cut my hair for the first time in 25 years, 
dammit Going to save this site!

Astrida


On Jun 2, 2011, at 4:10 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

 I saw this on a friend's Facebook page and just had to share.
 
 http://rapunzelsresource.wordpress.com/style-index/
 
 Sharon C.
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Caryatid hairstyles reproduced

[Astrida Schaeffer]

It's mostly a fishtail braid-- not very difficult. Unlike a regular braid, you 
divide your hair into two hanks instead of three. Keep the hanks apart, unlike 
a regular braid you'll never be crossing the whole hank. Then you take a tiny 
bit of hair (maybe an 1/8th of the whole hank, you can play around till you get 
the effect you like) from the outside of the Right Hank, add it to the inside 
of the Left Hank. Then a tiny bit of hair from the outside of the Left Hank and 
add it to the inside of the Right Hank, and repeat till your braid is done. 

Astrida 


On Jun 1, 2011, at 4:56 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:

 That is really interesting. I've the length and thickness, but alas, no one 
 skilled in this. But it is a lovely style as seen in the models. I am tempted 
 to get the dvd.
 
 Kimiko
 
 
 On May 31, 2011, at 11:06 AM, Lavolta Press wrote:
 
 http://rogueclassicism.com/2010/04/10/caryatid-hairstylings/
 
 Fran
 
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Bjarne, you remain an inspiration to us all and your talent is breathtaking. 

You deserve a patron who would free you to do this full time, I only wish this 
could happen for you!

Astrida

On May 13, 2011, at 12:25 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

 Hello sharon and all who replied,
 Thankyou for your help, off cause i can imagine horsehair tape would be 
 brilliant solution for this, i shall keep that in mind.
 I intend to make all things myself, and yes i shall post pictures.
 My webpage is not very big at the moment,  i have issues finding time for it, 
 and i deleted most of it this winter because it really needed updatings.
 Its terrible because the demand for my things is increasing, and i still only 
 have two hands and  a full time job to earn my living, and also i have 
 difficulties to say no when somebody asks.
 Last summer almost killed me because i had accepted to make a regency for 
 another museum who was going to have a big exhibition about the museum who 
 was build as a summer residense in 1806. I thoaght it would be easy to make a 
 regency, very simple and it happened that the curator wanted a dress like one 
 in the danish National Museum.
 It was tambour embroidered all over the skirt 
 I had to teach myself to tambour embroider, and boy it was hard. But 
 suddently  i had the right twist and pull to it, and i learned
 all summer for 4 months i embroidered every single day at least 3-4 hours, 
 and all day when i was home. Even an embroidery course i had ben given as a 
 gift, i had to tambour all the time to be ready for the opening.
 I did finish it for the opening and it was a very nice thing for me because 
 the danish queen attended the opening, and i shaked her hand :-)
 Right now i am making a karnival dress for a danish lady who is going to 
 Venice karnival. She pays me well and she also broaght with her fabric, wich 
 alas is an upholstery fabric, but i try to make it as nice as possible.
 I still have 20 yards of a wonderfull Brunswick silk brokade, floral and very 
 espensive, wich i am going to make a huge courtdress of, but there are 
 unfortunately a lot of other things i have to make first.
 I have missed you all a lot, and i browsed trough the topics lately and 
 found, you have become more wide spread in periods wich i think is 
 wonderfull.
 
 Bjarne
 
 -Oprindelig meddelelse- From: Sharon Collier
 Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 5:54 PM
 To: 'Historical Costume'
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
 
 www.renaissancetailor.com has ruffs that can be easily washed. I believe
 they are made of linen with horsehair braid inside for stiffness. My friend
 has some and loves them. You might consider using them, or looking at the
 site for techniques, etc.
 Will you be posting pictures? Your work is always so beautiful.
 Sharon C.
 
 -Original Message-
 From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
 Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews
 Sent: Friday, May 13, 2011 7:25 AM
 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
 
 Hello the list, its long time since last.
 I have ben asked to make some renaissance costumes for a shool projekt at a
 danish castle. the teachers are going to be dressed up in renaissance
 costumes, a man and a woman. They work at a danish castle wich is a museum.
 I am going to start this projekt in july.
 In some danish inventory lists, wich all are written in german ( it was the
 language used then in Denmark) it is often mentioned with wide dresses and
 narrow dresses.
 My question is, could a narrow dress be the same as the english word a
 kirtle
 Its hopeless with danish study of danish renaissance costumes, because
 nobody knows the danish terms for different costumes (costume parts) No
 danish words for anything except the major things like ruffs, cuffs and the
 like.
 Another question i have for you is: wich fabric would you recomend to use
 when i make ruffs and cuffs? They should be able to wash them often, and i
 thoaght about maybe using a synthetic fabric wich will hold the shape, and
 dont need to be ironed, or perhaps to use silk organza, as this also is
 stiff and keeps the shape.
 Any suggestions and any help would be greatfull apreciated.
 
 Bjarne
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage

[Astrida Schaeffer]

My local PBS station carried the BC coverage, uninterrupted until the 
moment they came out onto the balcony and suddenly all I had was ads for 
animated kids' shows! AARRGGHH Hours of watching and I missed the kiss due 
to station SNAFU. Sigh...

Fabulous dress, though!

Astrida
On Apr 29, 2011, at 10:25 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

 
 I figured the BBC coverage would be the best, so I watched BBC America.  
 (This was also what PBS stations carried.)  They had a small panel of fashion 
 people weigh in, along with other coverage. Got great views of a variety of 
 guests arriving at the Abbey, hats and all!  I watched from 5:00 (E D T) to 
 8:30, after the balcony appearance and the fly-over, which I have to admit, 
 brought tears to my eyes.
 
 Ann Wass
 
 


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Hoop storage

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Twisting hoops into a figure 8 and then bringing the two lobes together and 
tying them together to hold them shut works too-- this is how I fit a 
farthingale into a carry-on several years ago.

Astrida
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] pricing guidelines?

[Astrida Schaeffer]

This is a very small for-profit sewing school. The sort of thing where I can't 
really charge what I think I should, but it could pay dividends down teh road 
if I do this.


On Feb 18, 2011, at 10:17 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

 At least mmwage for actual hours on the job as well as class prep.? All out 
 of pocket expenses from thread and needles to gas. Then there is the matter 
 of professional? recognition for your expertise. If you start with that, then 
 it should be understood that an additiona fee would be expected for your time 
 and expenses.? Is this a for=profit enterprise or community activity. 
 -Original Message-
 From: Astrida Schaeffer astr...@schaefferarts.com
 Sent 2/18/2011 4:02:06 PM
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] pricing guidelines?Hi--
 I am terrible at pricing my work and time. May I please ask for some advice 
 from you all?
 I've been approached about helping run a week of summer camp focused on 19th 
 c. sewing. I'd bring the girls behind the scenes at a local museum to look at 
 collections, lecture on 19th c. fashion developments, show reproductions for 
 them to try on (already existing, not made for this camp), teach some 
 hands-on techniques. I'm not running the camp, but I'd be one of the main 
 teachers.
 The organizer is asking for pricing and I simply have no idea what to tell 
 her. I'm guessing my daily involvement during the 5 days would be usually 
 about 2-3 hours, however there would be a good deal of prep work I'd be doing 
 ahead of time.
 What say you?
 Many thanks,
 Astrida
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] pricing guidelines?

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Most definitely paying taxes as I am now working for myself. 

I know! They can pay me in fabric! (joking...)

Astrida


On Feb 22, 2011, at 5:03 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

 Yes, and don't count your chickens before they hatch.  Could pay  
 dividends down the road could pay dividends, or could lead towards  their 
 always 
 taking for granted that you work for cheap.
 So, yes, I agree, at least try to recoup your expenses--ALL of them.   Also 
 remember that, if you are in the US, this is taxable income, although you  
 can subtract your expenses from that. Income tax and social security amount 
 to  about 40%.  Of course, if your self-employed income isn't much (I don't  
 remember the floor off hand), you don't have to pay social security 
 withholding,  but if you want to be honest and fair, and you don't expense 
 away 
 everything,  you should pay the income tax.
 
 Ann Wass
 
 
 In a message dated 2/22/2011 2:34:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
 rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu writes:
 
 Charging  what the market will bear is indeed a starting point for 
 reputation for  you,?and skill learning for your students.? This is somewhat 
 the 
 direction I  took in 1976 when I started my costume service business.? Once 
 again, make  sure your out of pocket expenses are being covered...that one 
 took 
 me some  time to realize how all the small items contributed added up on 
 the  profit-loss column. You can?'donate' your time and effort, but it 
 shouldn't be  a Goodwill profit . In the long run, I made my profit on 
 volume and 
 repeat  customers...and when they wanted a first class product, I was first 
 in mind  and they did not quibble on the difference of cost between costume 
 and  Costume!
 Good luck as you try to figure out how to do the project for your  area.
 Kathleen
 -Original Message-
 From: Astrida Schaeffer  astr...@schaefferarts.com
 Sent 2/19/2011 12:00:47 PM
 To:  Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: Re: [h-cost]  pricing guidelines?This is a very small for-profit 
 sewing school. The sort of  thing where I can't really charge what I think I 
 should, but it could pay  dividends down teh road if I do this.
 On Feb 18, 2011, at 10:17 PM, R Lloyd  Mitchell wrote:
 At least mmwage for actual hours on the job as well as  class prep.? All 
 out of pocket expenses from thread and needles to gas. Then  there is the 
 matter of professional? recognition for your expertise. If you  start with 
 that, then it should be understood that an additiona fee would be  expected 
 for 
 your time and expenses.? Is this a for=profit enterprise or  community 
 activity.
 -Original Message-
 From: Astrida  Schaeffer astr...@schaefferarts.com
 Sent 2/18/2011 4:02:06  PM
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Subject: [h-cost] pricing guidelines?Hi--
 I am terrible at pricing my  work and time. May I please ask for some 
 advice from you all?
 I've  been approached about helping run a week of summer camp focused on 
 19th c.  sewing. I'd bring the girls behind the scenes at a local museum to 
 look at  collections, lecture on 19th c. fashion developments, show 
 reproductions for  them to try on (already existing, not made for this camp), 
 teach 
 some hands-on  techniques. I'm not running the camp, but I'd be one of the 
 main  teachers.
 The organizer is asking for pricing and I simply have no  idea what to 
 tell her. I'm guessing my daily involvement during the 5 days  would be 
 usually about 2-3 hours, however there would be a good deal of prep  work I'd 
 be 
 doing ahead of time.
 What say you?
 Many  thanks,
 Astrida
 ___
 h-costume mailing  list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 ___
 h-costume  mailing  list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume=
 
 ___
 h-costume  mailing  list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
 
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] pricing guidelines?

[Astrida Schaeffer]

Hi--

I am terrible at pricing my work and time. May I please ask for some advice 
from you all?

I've been approached about helping run a week of summer camp focused on 19th c. 
sewing. I'd bring the girls behind the scenes at a local museum to look at 
collections, lecture on 19th c. fashion developments, show reproductions for 
them to try on (already existing, not made for this camp), teach some hands-on 
techniques. I'm not running the camp, but I'd be one of the main teachers.

The organizer is asking for pricing and I simply have no idea what to tell her. 
I'm guessing my daily involvement during the 5 days would be usually about 2-3 
hours, however there would be a good deal of prep work I'd be doing ahead of 
time.

What say you?

Many thanks,

Astrida
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume