Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup.
I loved it so much I saved it as one of my screen saver images...I hope that's ok...in fact...I think I'll do more screen saver images using more of your exquisite gorgeous work for my computer.. Gia -- Original message -- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Oh gosh, Thanks a lot Joan... Bjarne - Original Message - From: Joan Jurancich To: Historical Costume Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:10 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sofie in the garden at Gammel Estrup. At 09:10 AM 6/27/2007, you wrote: The nicest picture i got from Gammel Estrup. Just wanted to share. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/t26.htm Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ Sofie looks lovely. You've made another masterpiece! Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] re: volunteering
Fashion citation to volunteers? That is downright funny! I just about spewed my drink on the screen laughing... The idea for merit awards is a much better idea.. Gia -- Original message -- From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm going Wednesday night to turn in my application to be a volunteer at a local historic site. They do 1860's. Nothing fancy, it's a farm house, but it looks like it could be fun. I've met some of the other ladies and they're nice. Those of you who do volunteer work at sites, how did you get the 'job'? Hey, Dawn I just started showing up. Every month. (That's when the site did living history: just once a month.) Pretty soon I was on the events planning committee, the next year head of another committee, another year later I was on the board, then president. Unless it's Sturbridge or Billburg (er, Williamsburg) most sites dont say no, thank-you. That said, we had our own problems, like the park ranger we had for a few years who was an ex-LA cop. She wanted to issue citations (like traffic citations, not like merit badges) to volunteers who, in the ranger's opinion, didnt measure up, usually in some trivial way. I remember the fashion violation she tried to issue... --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Your dream costume
No restrictions at all? I would love to make at least One gown with all underpinnings and accessories for every period, every country/culture beginning around the 10th century... That's a big dream... Gia -- Original message -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] La Mode Bagatelle's Artistic Reform Tea Gown, View A, in mossy-green velvet (for the overdress) and ivory silk for the underdress. I did spring for the pattern; I just quail before it in terms of my limited skill, especially in light of the materials I would like to use. And of course brocade slippers to wear with it. -- Original message -- From: Deredere Galbraith I was thinking of what my next costume would be and I came to an interesting question. What would be your dream costume? If you wouldn't be limited by money or your own expertise. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book - Natural Dyes by Cardon
Wow! I'm more interested in the Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles. Based on the description, it might provide more information regarding the weave and fibers of the textiles which, I think, might provide vital clues as to the how and why of fabric behavior on the human body. For example, if one could look at the spin of the fiber and the weave of the fiber, it could explain why certain extant fabrics in costumes seem to be more stretchy and not wrinkle or more rigid, causing stress wrinkles. Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles Rob Janaway and Paul Wyeth (eds) ISBN: 1873132794 Happy stitches. Gia -- Original message -- From: Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED] Finally published! ... but the booksellers are still waiting. Natural Dyes - sources, tradition, technology, science by Dominique Cardon ISBN: 190498200x http://www.archetype.co.uk/ click on 'recently published' Looks like a cool book but $170??!! Yikes! Diana -- www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] i cant deside
I think it looks Perfect for the look you are trying for! Thank you for sharing!! Gia -- Original message -- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, As you all responded me so bravely i have uploaded a new photo how i want to make it. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-36.htm Its as i told you late last night made with 2 rows of stitching each side of the center and with the narrow goldtrim. It raises in the edges and gets dimentional as i wanted. Thankyou all for your nice responses.. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The Queen, The Queen
*sigh* You lucky person! Gia -- Original message -- From: Ron Carnegie [EMAIL PROTECTED] Oh all right then She will arrive in Williamsburg Thursday night. She is staying at te Williamburg Inn. She will enjoy a carriage ride through the historic area on friday, and address people at the College of William and Mary. Later she will be at nthe two Jamestown Parks. I will be escorting her as part of an honor guard at Jamestowne Settlement. Ron Carnegie - Original Message - From: Penny Ladnier To: h-costume Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 1:04 AM Subject: [h-cost] The Queen, The Queen Oh well, you can't win them all. Queen Elizabeth II is coming to Richmond, VA Thursday for the 400th Anniversary of Jamestown. Last Friday, it was announced that she would be at the Capital on Thursday, May 3. And that the Queen would be receiving 108 people in representation of the original 108 Jamestown Colonists. The Commonwealth of Virginia had a lottery today to be one of the 108 people. Darn, I didn't win. But my daughter, son, and I are going to the Capital to see the Queen give a speech. Hopefully we can get close enough to take photos. The Queen will be going to Jamestown next week. LOL! I wonder if the Queen is going to the NASCAR race in Richmond this weekend. For more info about the Queen's visit and Jamestown's 400th Anniversary go to: http://queensvisit.governor.virginia.gov/home.asp http://www.americas400thanniversary.com/ Maybe our Williamsburg h-costumers can give info about the Queen's visit there. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] i cant deside.........
I think the pleated side is prettier, but also think the trim on it is too small. The rusched side looks good too, but the trim is too big. Maybe switch trims? The bigger one on the pleated side and the smaller trim on the rusched side? I don't know if that'd be period, because I've not studied the period.. Gia -- Original message -- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you would give me your 2 cents, i would be very pleased. I spended this day desiding wich trim to use on the red francaise dress i am going to make. But desided i have not yeat! On the left side i made box pleatings with a tiny gold trim in the edge. On the right side i have made the trim ruched and used a bigger gold trim. I think the left box pleated side is two boring, its flat, and not at all like i wanted it, the ruched one gives more shading to the silk. Is the gold trim two much? What do you think? http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3-35.htm Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] FW:OT Middle ages tech call. (video link)
Hilarious! (H-Costume) Not really costume related, but for all of us who love researching texts... An illustration of how tech upgrade help calls have never changed. http://www.devilducky.com/media/57946/ Gia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Translation help
I'd love to help. But without the beginning of the sentence, I don't have enough context to decide. Gia -- Original message -- From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature, and where better to find it than here? I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through a bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the reader. The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its appearance, handle, and properties. Obviously handle is the word that doesn't ring true here. My co-editor pencilled in feel. The fabric-user in me thinks hand, but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term. If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up short, or would it make sense to you? ...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric. ...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric. Other suggestions welcome. I don't think texture will work in context, because that turns out to be one of many factors in the handle. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Translation help
Thank you for the longer versions! We hope that [this method of analysis] may provide information that will increase our knowledge about the properties, handle, and appearance of a finished fabric. Might I suggest characteristics, texture and appearance of a finished fabric.? Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in warp and weft are very important for the appearance of a fabric and also for the fabric's handle and properties. And in this sentence, could I suggest using drape, handle and typical construction characteristics. I think the use of characteristics is more defining and seems (to me) 'guide' the impressions more toward the texture line of thinking. I think your idea of adding drape in the following sentence, it seems logical. I hope this helps! Gia Original message -- From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hmm. It appears hand might be too much of an American term. Thank goodness for this list. And yes, I think feel is too narrow to capture the idea of drape, which is something I couldn't put my finger on -- thanks to those who mentioned it, as now I have something to approach the authors with Patty asked about properties; the authors discuss a large number of factors that help define the effect of a textile, so I read this word as a catch-all term for everything else about the fabric other than how it looks and feels, e.g. warmth, durability, etc. But I will query and see whether that's what they mean, or whether all the properties they address can be summed up in appearance and drape/texture. A radical thought: If I used the original word, handle, would anyone here *not* understand it? Would it seem like bad English usage (which is a major concern here)? It struck both my English co-editor and me as a translation problem. The two appearances of the word: We hope that [this method of analysis] may provide information that will increase our knowledge about the properties, handle, and appearance of a finished fabric. Both the amount of twist and the twist combination in warp and weft are very important for the appearance of a fabric and also for the fabric's handle and properties. I am very tempted to put drape and texture in for the latter pair of adjectives, and may ask the authors' permission on that. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Netherlands Clothing early 17th century-preganacy etc....Was: [h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress.
These are all *stunning*! Thank you for sharing..Gia -- Original message -- From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Lorina, this is quite the norm for the first part of the 17th century in the Netherlands - (which at the time was much larger than it is now.) The bodice is pretty tight, doubtful of much use for pregnancy. The outer gown on the other hand is a possibility. I took this pattern from Juan Algacea's pattern book - it is a mourning gown. I justified this because the Netherlands were under Spanish control for about 80 years. This gown can be made several different ways, one of which has a false front underneath the sack of the back. That would lace up, and of course be adjustable. I saw this gown for the first time at Mathew Gnagy's shop (Desert Torch Tailoring) at local event (might have been Estrella Wars). http://www.deserttorch.com/DTT/DTT_2003%20historical%20female.htm (the red gown in the middle of the page) http://www.deserttorch.com/DTT/DTT_2002%20historical%20female.htm (green and cream in the second row, and cream in the 4th row) I am thinking about putting my slide show up in a Flash movie for folks to see. I can also post my talk - it is pretty rough, since I had most of it memorized, but it might give folks a little background. Thank you for your thoughts, Sg - Original Message - From: Five Rivers Chapmanry To: Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:05 PM Subject: [h-cost] RE: Done! A few pics from the Golden Age dress. Oooo thanks for the image. Fascinating that. Almost makes one wonder if this wasn't a maternity outfit. Very odd. Haven't ever seen another example like that, or have I been missing the boat here? :-) Do you know? Is this an unusual example, or quite the norm? Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of quality hand-crafted cooperage, embroidery supplies; fine, original textile, pen and ink, and watercolour art. Launching April 1: Recipes of a Dumb Housewife, by Lorina Stephens 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Extant Rennaisance Spanish Dress
I could go all day just looking through your site! Fabulous! Gia -- Original message -- From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello all, I have just updated my website dealing with renaissance spanish women's garb. Recently I came across several new images of extant garments and found new URLs to some older links, which I hadn't yet uploaded... oops;) http://sayaespanola.glittersweet.com/extant.htm I'm trusting the provenance for the Isabel de valois and Isabel Clara Eugenia gowns are well established, but they do seem genuine if altered. The Isabel de Valois (red) is particularly inspiring for me as I have just made a new jerkin in red and am thinking of finishing the skirt and adding sleeves and embroidering the heck out of them all;)! Also of course I now am just itching to get to Spain as well as Germany to seek all these hidden treasures. I also came across many new portraits which I'll slowly add to my site as I go. If you are curious I have already posted them to my costuming journal: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com (if anyone happens to come across this in an h-cost mail archive it will be around the 28th Feb-1st March 2007.) Several of these are Dutch and it is tempting to add yet another setion to my site;) Michaela de Bruce http://costumes.glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?
IIRC, They are called Leading Strings... Hope that helps, Gia -- Original message -- From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Do any of you know of some sources which discuss the pieces of cloth (typically from the shoulder or sleeve scye) hanging from a child's costume? I need some reference material to support my discussion and can't seem to find anything specifically in my books. I have always referred to them as lappetsmaybe this is why I can't find the reference? You can see it in the following picture. http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=6259302223530010 Or http://tinyurl.com/3y4vr6 It makes sense to me, and I seem to recall they were used to hang on to kids. This one shows a rope attached to the small child. http://tinyurl.com/3eyaqz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin
Helen/Aidan, I happily received the CD-ROM just after Christmas! Thank you for the disc! Happy Happy dance... Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Helen Pinto [EMAIL PROTECTED] The catalogue is gone, but if you send me your mailing address, I'll send you a CD-Rom of the scans of all the pages. -Helen/Aidan - Original Message - From: Voncile W. Dudley To: Historical Costume Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 10:15 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin I'm late checking my email. I would love to have any books that needs a good home especially garments from the 15th century up. Lady Von Hope I am not to late! - Original Message - From: Helen Pinto To: Historical Costume Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 11:18 PM Subject: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding things that could use a home other than mine. I have a Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin from back in the days when they sent members these glossy books every quarter. It's from the costume collection and contains large, high-quality pictures of garments from 1695 through the early 1950's, including microphotographs of some of the embroidered detail of the garments. It's nice to look at, but way past anything I'm really interested in. So... I will scan and send photos of anything that someone fancies, and the whole thing can belong to the first person who asks for it. (You have two weeks to ask for the pictures, then I'll mail it.) The highlights: - Complete embroidered woman's dress from 1695 - Four men's 18th c embroidered coats, one uncut, one with original embroidery cartoon, one with pants and vest - Men's banyans - Assorted women's 18c dresses, one with panniers, most sack-backed, all embroidered or hand-painted, 1740's - 1795 - Assorted women's 19c outfits, day dresses, evening wear, several from each decade - Assorted women's 20c outfits, evening wear, suits, etc, up to the 50's -Helen/Aidan - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Lady Von http://www.wildthangstreasures.com - Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] post- Christmas gift exchange
Whee! Quilting cottons? Did you say quitling cottons? I'd love to participate, too! Gia/Elena -- Original message -- From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hee! That's a great idea. I could certainly come up with several things to submit, though none from this Christmas. (Any quilters out there? I've got quilting cottons out the wazoo!) It might work best if there's absolutely NO secrecy about the items, though =} -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Even Weave Fabric
Have you tried http://www.threadneedlestreet.com ? Denise is wonderfully helpful. She's located in Issaquah, WA on Front Sreet. Good luck and happy stitching! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Elisabeth Doornink [EMAIL PROTECTED] I'm in NW Washington state, so no, that won't work. I wish it would, though! Quia Christus Perpetuo Regnat, Elisabeth -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of REBECCA BURCH Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2006 2:45 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Even Weave Fabric Where are you? There is a needlework shop in Cambridge, Ohio where you can get it from the bolt. --- Elisabeth Doornink wrote: My mother has requested even weave fabric for Hardanger Embroidery Rebecca Burch Center Valley Farm Duncan Falls, Ohio, USA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.24/592 - Release Date: 12/18/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.25/593 - Release Date: 12/19/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt
Yes, there were laws, but IIRC, the purpose was to keep unscrupulous weavers and merchants from selling cloth at a higher cost just because they could say it was woven with blank. They'd just leave out the 'percentage' that blank. Just like the other guilds, they kept a close watch on their members, for fraud. I think that there might some examples of guild members being publicly punished, such as bakers, and other such folks. Queen Elizabeth, at the urging of different guilds, to do some proclamations, but nothing specific comes to mind. Drat! I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the Italian city-state guilds had even instigated the use of color coding the selvedges, to keep track. I'm away from my books, so don't can't verify right now. And my memory may be playing me false! Anyone who can help with those vague memories or let me know that my memory might be out of kilter, please post! Well, back to work... Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've read The Devil's Cloth and I agree that there are some interesting-- and sometimes far fetched -- ideas presented there. I remember seeing a painting right after I read the book. It was John the Baptist baptizing Jesus. Jesus is wearing a striped undergarment. Somehow I doubt that He would not be wearing something that was questionable-- even if it is a painting. Just as a side note. I made the Beatrice dress. IMO the stripes have to be spliced in or applied. I remember the stripes doing domething funky around the shoulders. Remember too, that this is a postumous picture of her-- she died in childbed (the baby she lost is kneeling next to her in the picture)-- so she wouldn't be posing in the dress, anyway. As for stripes themselves-- everything woven would have to be yarn dyed, unless there are two different fibers used. Then two chemically different dyes, formulated to work with one of the fibers, could be dumped into the same pot. This is a modern dye method and I am not sure how far back it goes. But wasn't there laws about mixing two fibers in a cloth? Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Cat Dancer Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 6:08 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: striped skirt On Wed, 6 Dec 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ooo, a whole book about it! Thanks! I don't remember where I found my copy. It's a fascinating book even if some of his theories are off-the-wall. :-) The one thing it did do was to get us to look critically at portrayals and look for themes and such. Pixel, is there any way of knowing if the sumptuary laws meant woven-in stripes, applied stripes or pieced stripes? That painting with Mary Magdalen looked like they might be applied. The Castilian law specifies types of cloth (which I will have to look up when I get home) but the London law just says 'rayed cloth'. [I highly recommend /Governance of the consuming passions : a history of sumptuary law/ by Alan Hunt, if you want to dig deeper.] The rayed cloth of the London law is probably woven-in stripes, stripes being what you, the weaver, do if you have leftover yarns but not enough of any one color to do anything useful with. I want to say that cloth woven of dyed wool is going to be cheaper than cloth that is woven and then dyed, but I don't have enough knowledge of the medieval textile industry to be saying that. [Here is where someone who does, steps in and corrects me. ;-)] Certainly the comments in the inventories and accounts are specific that rayed cloth is for the members of the household fairly far down on the social scale--the valets and such. What we've found, in going over some amazingly huge number of illuminations, frescos, panel paintings, book illustrations, etc., is that when someone is portrayed in stripes and/or parti-colour, that person is somehow a social inferior to at least one of the other people in the artwork. So we see stripes (and sometimes plaids) on musicians and on the people that my consort refers to as minions--the various servants, lackeys, etc. that tend to hang around important people in the art. Except in the Manesse Codex, where I suspect that stripes indicate someone who is a fop or otherwise on the edge of fashion. Note that that's only a hypothesis--it hasn't made it to theory yet. ;-) Thanks to everyone who responded! I love this kind of conversation with you guys! Tea Rose Anything to geek about stuff that isn't work! Pixel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com
[h-cost] bounce confirmation?
I just got an auto email regarding emails bouncing, and I have no idea why.. and I've just noticed that I haven't gotten any emails from the list since I got the auto membership reminder email on December 1. I've not made any changes to my membership and fear that this is a phishing scam. Has anyone else gotten one of these? The body of the message is pasted below: Your membership in the mailing list h-costume has been disabled due to excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated 26-Nov-2006. You will not get any more messages from this list until you re-enable your membership. You will receive 2 more reminders like this before your membership in the list is deleted. To re-enable your membership, you can simply respond to this message (leaving the Subject: line intact), or visit the confirmation page at ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bounce confirmation?
Shucks! I *did* think it was spamming and deleted it already. But went ahead and re-subscribed to h-costume list anyways. No wonder I was starting to get cranky. I hadn't had my daily H-list fix! Thanks to all of you who contacted me! Gia/Elena -- Original message -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I got one too Astrid -- Original message -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I just got an auto email regarding emails bouncing, and I have no idea why.. and I've just noticed that I haven't gotten any emails from the list since I got the auto membership reminder email on December 1. I've not made any changes to my membership and fear that this is a phishing scam. Has anyone else gotten one of these? The body of the message is pasted below: Your membership in the mailing list h-costume has been disabled due to excessive bounces The last bounce received from you was dated 26-Nov-2006. You will not get any more messages from this list until you re-enable your membership. You will receive 2 more reminders like this before your membership in the list is deleted. To re-enable your membership, you can simply respond to this message (leaving the Subject: line intact), or visit the confirmation page at ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century ball
Bjarne! How lovely! I felt absolutely trasnported back in time! Perfect ambiance, setting and it seems like everyone worked really hard to make this dinner party look like a living protrait from the past! Well done! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Usually i take up some photos on my website when i get back from the party at the gustavians in Sweden. This time i need not to do it, as a dear friend of mine, Lars Rosenberg made a slideshow for you to see. It was the last summersday of the year, in the evening, the full moon came up, and i enjoyed every moment of it. If you click this link, and turns on a full schreen on your computer, you should be able to have the slideshow: Enjoy! http://www.sodratornet.se/pertoft/beatelund/ Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] iridescent fabric/weaving ( mind over matter)
I have got a green and black iridescent taffeta, but don't know how much of it I have. How much do you need? Gia/Elena -- Original message -- From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED] I had one of those neat synchronicity moments recently: I thought to myself, Huh! I bet you could make an iridescent with more than just 2 colors. Why don't they? and the next day, I picked up a fabric order that included some iridescent silk taffeta, which to my surprised delight was a _3_ color iridescent. It looked taupe, but was actually pink and green weft on black warp. Very cool! Yep:) In fact I believe this is true irridescent fabric rather than simply shot or two tone. Anyway, the whole thing has gotten me wondering: how practical is it to make 3+ color iridescents? Are they as uncommon as I think? Are there any weavers on here who can expound on them? I had seen soem mentioned on a website and then lo and behold within a few weeks I handled some in person at a local trade type store. It was red and green and another colour I can't remember, but I was able to pick out a thread of each colour so it wasn't just a trick of the light. It's (would commit minor mayhem for a freakin' copper/purple or copper/teal taffeta, or best of all, a copper/teal/purple!) I am just on the hunt locally for simple green and black! Screes of red and black or rust and black or muddy grey and orange... but not green and black! Michaela http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.4/448 - Release Date: 14/09/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hourly Wages
Sheesh! Yet another husband that wants to get rich quick on the labors of his wife? My ex used to harangue me about this same thing, which I found rather irritating, especially since he enjoyed being on unemployment... IMNSH opinion, if he thinks that he can get the high prices, let him negotiate with the customers. And then have him deal with their nitpicking every little thing to get the final bill reduced; and he can also deal with those who abuse the garment so that a seam fails and then wants free repairs! I suggest that you do your usual quote type thing, and calm the the customer down. I charge $20/hour for garments that have straight basic sewing (no embrodiery work or beading or minimal hand sewing). Charge $25/hour for garments that have embroidery work, beading or lots of handsewing. 3 Fittings are included, but if they miss a fitting without any notice, they pay $10 penalty. If they lose so much weight that alterations are needed before they wear the garments the first time, the hours needed for altering is at the higher rate of $25.00. Anyhow, I found that if I do a flat fee quote, I seriously underestimate the time I spend sewing the garments. On the other hand, folks seem to think they are getting a bargain having me sew for them at my rates, but they still can't afford me. Sad, huh? I don't sew for folks too much anymore, I just don't have the time.. Best of luck with *coughcough* discussing this with your husband.. Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] I was having yet another *coughcough* discussion with my husband on what the typical hourly wages independant costumers make - what they charge out at for high end work - full suites of clothing, custom designed, in part or fully assembled by machine, complete with embellishments. He seems to think I am on cheap crack, however I have looked into it through employment statistics in my province and country, and have kept a quiet eye on the discussions in the past here and I believe that I am on track for a 5 year plan of establishing my reputation and credibility. He is a frustrating insta-boing type, thinking I should be able to name whatever I please with no justification behind the price tag. Could I run a survey on what those interested and willing to offer cannon fodder on this discussion charge out for work roughly described above, and the currency it is typically quoted at, so I can compare apples to apples? If it seems like a private subject, please feel free to reply offlist. Thanks for anyone willing to save my sanity, Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules. Its never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates
IIRC, The Frog is the prince or king or royal someone of France that she was supposedly being 'courted' by. Never came to anything, since she had no intention of ever marrying... I'm sure someone on this list can get the french royalty' name I can't seem to remember right now. Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sir Walter Raleigh gave her a frog pin, maybe that's supposed to be him. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kimiko Small Sent: Friday, July 28, 2006 9:56 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] amusing fashion plates Any idea what Queen Elizabeth is supposed to be, animal wise? I am not sure if it is a tortoise or what. But I do like the Froggy courtier. And I like Henry VIII and Jane Seymour. I like some others as well, but those are what I am involved in. Kimiko Dawn wrote: Silly, very silly, animals in historic clothing: http://www.mydeskcity.com/DZFG20.htm I think they're desktops. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] finished left side of the waistcoat
Stunning!!! I love your work! Have fun celebrating your accomplishment. Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] I just finished the left side of the waistcoat with spangels. Took me 2 weeks to make, i promised to update, when finished.. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cel.htm I am now taking a break and goes a trip to Tivoli in Copenhagen, have a nice coffe and a big cake :-) Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Heirloom stuff
I'm interested, but don't know how ebay search works. Where would I go to enter your id? I've looked on a few pages, but they only show catagories to search. Thanks! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] All that lace I had mentioned I had a while back has finally made it onto E Bay, along with some other stuff. If you're interested, look up my ID insaneseamstress. I'll be pitching some other stuff up there soon as well. I have a whackload of Victorian patterns - all are intact, I traced off rather than cut. Some may have notations on them in pencil - anyone interested in what I have? I can inventory and photograph for those interested. Otherwise I'll toss em on EBay as well. Some of my finished vic goods will be going this week too. Kathy Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert(Fieldless) On a rose Or barbed vert a lion's head erased gules. Its never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot Tosach eólais imchomarc. - Questioning is the beginning of knowledge. http://www.sengoidelc.com/node/131 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Heirloom stuff
Whichever they are, I'd be interested in seeing them. Thanks! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Kathy Page wrote: I have a whackload of Victorian patterns Are these patterns that were produced in the Victorian era or modern patterns of Victorian styles? Thanks, Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sloper form
Here's an idea...instead of using christmas tree stands, you can get really nice market umbrella holder/stands. With summer just around the corner, there should be some sort of supply around somewhere. Maybe at the local home improvement stores? Just a thought.. Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Beth, I made the sloper of unbleached cotton. You are right that you can stuff it two hard, so that it gets two thick, but i find that this special teddy bear stuffing, is nice to form with, and i have obtained a shape very like my own. I just placed it on top of the cut away bottom of my supermand model, and it rests on it. I intend to glue it to the top of the bottom. I didnt make any legs to the model, that would be two difficult to me to make, but i do intend in near future, to add a right arm to it. Its potential to me, that i can see how the back of my jackets and waistcoats are, and that is the major factor. I have seen at the companys who sells dress forms, that you can buy seperate stands. Why dont you do this? And then use a broom stick to the stand? Let the end of the stick rest on the neck top. Perhaps stuff in a heavy cardboard here, to keep it have the shape? I really intend to make a female sloper two, to the corsets i make. I hate the breast part sitting two low, and it wont moove :-) It was years and years since i made a sloper model last, but fortunately i have a folder with recipies how to construkt these, from my designschool. It really wasnt difficult to make, it kind of is in my brain already. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Beth Schoenberg To: Historical Costume Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 7:05 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] sloper form Hi, Bjarne, You always amaze me!! Making one of these is such a big project, yet you mention it so matter-of-factly, as if it was a good idea, but a bit of an after-thought!! What did you use for the outer surface of the dress form? Unbleached cotton (muslin or calico)? Linen? Something heavier? Not fabric at all? A group of friends and I have been talking about making duct-tape doubles, using duct tape, or wide house-painter's masking tape, or possibly fabric medical tape (expensive!) --- over plastic garbage bags or thin dry-cleaner's bags. We've been debating using foam-rubber for the stuffing, or teddy-bear stuffing, or spray-in building-insulation foam (this last is not squishable, but it is carve-able). The expected problem with using fabric fitted to shape is that the fabric body will be distorted out of the correct shape, as it is forcibly stuffed, for the person it's supposed to fit. How did you achieve your fit? One thing we have discovered is that an old microphone stand is *very* heavy, and might be an ideal base for a dress form, especially for our large and heavy historic dresses. I'm also curious: did you put whole or partial legs on your form? Beth S --- in clear and frosty Kambah, in Canberra, the big-city-small-town capital of Australia On 03/06/2006, at 9:29 PM, Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Hi, My friends at Live Journal, gave me the idea to make myself a sloper form. I had recently ordered a mans dress form, but when it arrived, i found out it was much, much two big for me, it was a superman. So some of my friends suggested me to make myself a sloper model, pad the armholes, and neck, and stuff it with teddybear stuffing. I did yesterday, and i had to buy 6 large bags of stuffing, to fill out my sloper. The stand from the Superman i used for my own sloper model, and now i have my own uniquely you. Boy i am so happy that i made it, i have tryed on my suits on it, and i actually found out many things i could have done better with the cut. Now i am going to make myself a lot of nice outfits. Also for period corsets, the sloper model is a brilliant idea, because its squishable. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] My latest gig!
Congratulations! You go and have loads of fun!!! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] I do, I do! The Phoenix Art Museum just called me and asked me to do costumes in conjunction with the traveling exhibit from the Rijksmuseum from Amsterdam! Whe! I am s exited. I hope like heck they ask me to do the Kitchen Maid by Vermeer. They even said there would be funds since they realized it could be very expensive!! http://www.codart.nl/exhibitions/details/833/ etails/833/ Sg (who can hardly believe it herself, and hopes she doesn't jinx anything by announcing it!) - Original Message - From: Cynthia J Ley Subject: Re: [h-cost] hello out there?? Feel like discussing latest projects? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Steam Iron source
Walmart has one and it's on their webpage, too...I tried to send the info in an email I sent yesterday, but my email didn't post... Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Suzi (who really needs to find a new job - I hate ironing, and I hate machining!!) ps - meant glad it's not just me that feels like that :-))) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] stumpwork bag
Hello! Goodness! I *LOVE* the gusset bag!. I'm wondering if these could also be used modernly? And how much for one? in US Dollars? Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Kathleen, Uploaded a new picture, i am going to give it a taffeta handle in same colour as the purse itself, so that the highlight will stay at the embroidery. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm It has a gusset in the side, and gives place for many things. I think i have an interrested buyer allready. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Lloyd Mitchell To: Historical Costume Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] stumpwork bag I love this shape! It takes the ordinary evening to another level. Not that your Work is just ordinary... What do you have in mind for the handle? Kathleen - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews To: Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 5:49 AM Subject: [h-cost] stumpwork bag http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm This is the gusset bag finished. Except i need to make the handle. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Holiday/Secret Santa gifts
Hello! My gift was from Carol Kocian, who gave me the book by Mara Riley, Whatever Shall I Wear? and several small lengths of basic cotton and linen twill type tapes. And also pieces of a pale green toile cotton for my quilting, too! Since I have decided to start playing in the era generally associated with the civil war of the US, I'm definitely going to be using everything! Thank you Carol, for these thoughtful gifts! Elena, Gia -- Original message -- From: Carol Kocian [EMAIL PROTECTED] Naturally mine was waiting for me today when I got home. :-) Sue Clemenger sent some chocolate truffles (Yum!) and a beautiful blank book covered in green velvet, with a Celtic knotwork animal design embossed into it. Very cool, thank you! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] gamberson question
I'm not sure what colors would be used, but the wealthy folks (in period) who had armor might (and this is just conjecture) use their heraldic colors, maybe? Maybe some good places to look would be the paintings and illuminations with Italian City-State wars (or whatever those might be called). Maybe the painting sourses that have pavilions in them? I have a vague recollection of seeing paintings with gorgeous pavilions (french bells?) with men in various stages of armoring and fighting? My memory is very sketchy, so I welcome corrections! I have a few (ok, a *lot* of) construction tips that I found to be helpful when I made a gambeson for a fellow a few years ago. Try and use upholstry cotton for the batting. I found it to be thicker and it washed up pretty darn firm. I also found that once I determined each pattern piece of the gambeson, (front body, back body, upper arm, lower arm, skirt) I would draw each pieces' cutting line onto the lining fabric, leaving at least *2* inches of fabric space in between *each piece* all the way around.You should use non wash out marker that will not wash out (sharpie? I actually used a pencil, with a soft lead so it left a rather noticeable line and it didn't wash out) . And being on 'true grain' isn't really critical, as long as you are 'close enough'. You'll see why as you read further. Cut out each pattern piece at least *2* inches away from the pattern actual cutting line. Take the cut out lining pieces and lay on the outer fabric *wrong sides together*, and cut out the outer fabric using the actual cut edge of the pieces to cut around (same rules for grain alignment as lining). Lay the cut out pieces of *outer* gambeson fabric pieces, wrong side down, on the batting and cut. There is no actual 'grain' for batting, so lay out so as to not make any cabbage (waste); you can even piece the batting, too! Sandwich the outer fabric (wrong side to batting), batting and lining fabric (wrong side to batting). Quilt the each piece *individually*. Quilting each piece separately (front body sandwich, back body sandwich, arm pieces sandwiches) will make handling at the sewing machine a heck of a lot easier! I used a diamond (60 degree angle) quilting method because it would help with supporting the bias of the fabric, without actually reducing the any of the possible 'stretch' that activity would need. Zig Zag cut edges enclosing the batting. If you lay the pattern piece on the quilted pieces, you will notice that the pattern cutting line markings are just a tad to the inside of the pattern piece cutting line, because the quilting 'takes up' some of the materials. This is why one reason you need to mark the cutting lines on the lining. Do NOT assemble pieces yet!! Machine WASH AND DRY every separate piece (which is why you have the 2 all the way around and the cut edges are zig zagged to enclose the batting). The reason is so that each piece can be pre-shrunk without out the dreaded distortion that would pull adjoining pieces out of wack. This also *thickens* (fulls?) the batting so that it will be firmer, and more stable prior to the first wearing. This will also make the gambeson wash and wearable. Once the pieces are washed and dried, take the PAPER pattern pieces and lay on the OUTER fabric of each piece (make sure you flip the *paper* pattern piece if you have distinct right and left sides) on the outer side of each piece. Cut the quilted pieces around the *paper* pattern. Assemble the gambeson as desired, decorate and embellish as desired. Be sure to have several heavy duty sewing needles to hand. You might need to change them as they become dulled going through such heavy duty layers. I hope my tips will be helpful and reduce the difficulties of assembling a gameson that would shrink with the first washing! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks! That is very interesting. I am probaly going to use the period pattern since I have it. It is for a 15th century gambeson. And the person wil only wear a fiew armour parts. He wants it as korrect as possible. But likes it to have a colour. The only colour I have ever seen is red. But I don't now if a normal soldier would wear it in red. For filling I am thinking of using loose sheep wool or cotton batting used for making quilts. Just sew over the cloth with batting between it is much faster but would that be right? He doesn't want a very thick gambeson because he will also use the costume in play's and it will get hot under the stage lights. otsisto wrote: A gambeson is padding worn under the armour. Linen and wool were used, usually in the medium to heavy weight. If you are a part of the Society for Creative Anachronism, authenticity is encouraged but not manditory when it comes to garment fiber content. Try to go for the linen as
Re: [h-cost] greetings
Awesome!!! Absolutely gorgeous! Now I want one! Thank you for sharing your gorgeous work. Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and a Wonderful New Year to you! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello. First i want to wish all the h-costume members a merry christmas and all the best of a happy new year. May the new year be prosperous and lucky for all, and bring a lot of wonderfull meetings and events. I have nearly finished the long work i have had with the chenille embroidered robe a la francaise, i have to pack it down and make the finishing touches to it after christmas. It takes up two much space here, and i need to make everything ready for christmas. You can se it on my webpage here: http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm Many greetings Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Humans in England, 700k years?
I happened upon an AP article that just caught my eye. Hopefully, I'm not sending out old news! But it looks like that they found 32 black flints, in river sediments in Pakefiield in eastern England, that dated back to 700,000 years. I think I need to find and re-read my Mummies of Urmichee (spelling?) book again. This find will make the re-reading much more enthralling (to me anyway)! I know this is *way* early for SCA (for those interested in SCA), but my research pathways have certainly expanded! I can hardly *wait* for the details of this find to be published, even if there's no mention of textiles, this is still useful for development of theories and conjectures. Elena/Gia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A Rant about commercial patterns
What I've done in the past is to cut a bit of elastic, and sew ribbon to *both* ends. This way the ribbon doesn't need to be very long (shorter dangly bits) and you get a bit of 'give' for sizing. When I thread the elastic/ribbon through the casing, I also tack (backstitch) 'across' the elastic in the casing at least in the middle (I hope that's clear), so it doesn't keep slipping out. I hope this helps! Elena/Gia -- Original message -- How about threading a pretty ribbon through the casing so your (very lucky to have a grandma sewing for them!!) granddaughters can just tie off and have an attractive bow showing? Although, maybe not a good solution for babies...someone in an earlier post suggested leaving an extra length of elastic for Mama to finish off? Good luck, Theresa Eacker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've been sewing for my granddaughters for Christmas and have come across, again, something that has long bothered me in most commercial patterns. The sleeves have elastic in them and the directions say, Cut elastic to a comfortable measurement. Now, the girls are in Florida, and I am in Maryland, so how am I supposed to do that? The same holds when making baby clothes for babies who aren't born yet, for example. (Snipping) Does this peeve anyone else as it does me? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Irons
I live in Everett WA and Costco has a great iron (can't remember the brand - and I'm at work - drat!) that I think is equal to the Rowenta that I have, and about half the price. It's got a 'computerized' setting selection LCD (I think that's what it's called) with up/down buttons to select syn/silk/wool/cotton/linen. It has a separate lever to select steam functions too. The shot of steam is wonderful. I'll post the brand when I get home. Elena/Gia -- Original message -- I think my 28yo GE iron is giving up to ghost. Problem is this: I volunteered to make curtains for a friend who is having a baby - she doesn't have time as the doctor wants to induce her 3 wks early (due to diabetes in the family). I need to get them done like today or tomorrow and I don't have time to research irons. So, can I please get some recommendations? Something, sturdy, mid-range, easy to find (cause this is Seattle and they're prediciting snow off and on for the week and I might have to get it at either a Joanns, Fred Meyers, or Sears store) and without an automatic off timer thingy that drives me nuts when I use other peoples. Thanks a bunch Susan in Bellevue ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] update of chenille dress
Stunning! Excuse me, I've got to wipe the drool off my keyboard now Elena/Gia -- Original message -- Hi, Uploaded 3 more photos of the stumpwork dress. Desided to discharge the ruffled edge that i made in the drawing, on top of the border of the underskirt. Two much. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/chenillestumpwork.htm Bjarne who now adds the small chenille flowers to the edge of the underskirt. Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dipping silk in cold water
Hello, I've done a few gowns out of 'regular' (as opposed to moire) taffeta for my eldest daughter, but not silk taffeta. I've discovered that with taffeta if I wash the whole thing in water (not in the washer or the whole thing is a wrinkled mess), it doesn't lose it's crispness or sheen in my eyes. But if you put just a bit of water on it (like in spot cleaning) the spot is visibly obvious and (I think) I've not figured out a way to get that spot out, once it's there. Even after washing it. My experiences with silk specifically, is with China silk, 'silk' velvet , raw silk and duponi. China Silk and Silk velvet washes up beautifully if carefully hand washed. Washing raw silk make the fabric 'stiffer'. Duponi loses it's sheen, becomes fairly stiff and loses it's resiliency for wear and tear. Just my .02 worth... Elena/Gia -- Original message -- Hi, Just wondered, what will happen if a silk taffeta was dipped in cold water? Would it get spoiled? Thoaght about the water solluble solution for transfer of embroidering pattern to silk. I could try a small sampler, but thoaght some of you already tryed? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Testing
I think the list might be mid-hiccup or at that point in a cyber-shneeze where it's gathering the emails for big explosive schneeze. And then we'll all be innundated.. Elena/Gia. -- Original message -- Anyone else out there? I'm not getting any mail from the list. Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Gustavian harvest feast
Oh *Bjarne!*. I will pray for a swift healing for you!!! And may your embroidery withdrawl symptoms be small... Hugs (careful)! Elena/Gia Dear all, I have uploaded some pictures from this last weekends event at the gustavians in Stockholm. It was situated in romantic sourroundings like a small Petite Trianon. Dinner was esquisite and the company as allways very nice. Please use your back button to get back to the index. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/beatelund2005.htm Unfortunately i had a small accident. When busses were driving us back to Stockholm i couldnt find my bag and i rushed arround to find it, slipped on a staircase and broke my right hand wrist. My shoes are very slippery! So no embroidering for me the next 4 weeks :-( Thankyou fo all your feed back with the topic about why America are more into renaissance than 18th century. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
playing in period societies? Re: [h-cost] why renaissance and not 18th century?
Personally, I play in the SCA because I can dress up alot... What I'd prefer to do is to play dress up for several periods, and (I'm sorry) for brevity let's just say from 1650 through 1900. I love each of the different fashions that evolved and exploring each development and their fabrics, textiles, accessories and social graces would be exquisite. If there are 'Societies' in the USA (Seattle, Washington area) that I could begin playing in I'd love to know about them. Or, if not, if there's a group that focuses on the Irish/Celtic/Welsh (I think they are all different and distinct groups) history, language and costuming, I'd also love to know about them, too. Elena/Gia Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Sorry sorry folks, drinks on me! I ment why so much renaissance fairs and renaissance reenactors and not so many 18th century? The American RenFaires are mostly very fluffy. Lots of flashy clothes, stage magic, selling of pretty things, and not so much history. They make a fair amount of money for the organizers, and the few historic elements are often provided by really dedicated volunteers who get paid nothing, and who are not a big part of the experience for most of the attendees. It's an experience of its own, really, not related to re-enactment. I expect the 18th century is too close in time to be myth'ed up like that and sell well to the general public. cv ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume Groups in Seattle (was RE: playing in period societies?)
Bless you! I'll look up the brcg and would love the info on the other group SWIT. I can hardly wait to spread my historical research and costuming wings! Elena/Gia If there are 'Societies' in the USA (Seattle, Washington area) that I could begin playing in I'd love to know about them. *snip* Ask and ye shall receive: www.brcg.org We are a group that studies every aspect of costuming, from extrapolations of the stone age to futuristic fantasy, with a lot of historical fact and folly in between. There is another group, Somewhere in Time, Unlimited, which is more heavily influenced by historical costume after the SCA period, but I don't think they have a web presence. I can find their address if you would like it. The BRCG is the local branch of the International Costumers Guild, while S.I.T.U. was started by local folks in the SCA who wanted more from the later periods. Kate McClure aka StitchWitch Beads? What beads . . . ? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re:storm prayers
Penny, I love the idea of helping with rebuilding stashes and such. May I send some as well? Oh Penny, My prayers are to you and all of your family. Mia in Charlotte, NC - Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
Hm...Having fibromyalgia myself, I can tell you that the *weight* of the garment is as important as the fit. And 'dragging' along long lengths of fabric, no matter how pretty, really can cause the fatigue that makes the pain pretty darned unendurable. If you make a houppeland, make sure it's out of a fairly lightweight fabric. I used to wear italian ren, and then the gowns just got too heavy for me, and I just won't wear a italian ren without the right amount of fabric to get that 'shape and drape' that is so special. Now most of the time I wear a nice tunic over a linen under tunic, that just skims the body so I don't even have to wear a belt. Anything I can carry has to go into a little basket, so I'm forced to not carry more than I have to. Anyhow, you are on the right track thinking about going tunic for her. Elena My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding too. She is 5'-2 and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a belt, or anything else that will create any pressure or tension, especially on her lower back. She also detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent either. The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not have to be historically accurate, just look the part. I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most of these requirements. I haven't really studied them as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less so will create a tent-like appearance. Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but not snugly. This picture from a series of German prints also gave me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified. http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks, Annette M __ Yahoo! Mail for Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
Hm...Having fibromyalgia myself, I can tell you that the *weight* of the garment is as important as the fit. And 'dragging' along long lengths of fabric, no matter how pretty, really can cause the fatigue that makes the pain pretty darned unendurable. If you make a houppeland, make sure it's out of a fairly lightweight fabric. I used to wear italian ren, and then the gowns just got too heavy for me, and I just won't wear a italian ren without the right amount of fabric to get that 'shape and drape' that is so special. Now most of the time I wear a nice tunic over a linen under tunic, that just skims the body so I don't even have to wear a belt. Anything I can carry has to go into a little basket, so I'm forced to not carry more than I have to. Anyhow, you are on the right track thinking about going tunic for her. Elena My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding too. She is 5'-2 and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a belt, or anything else that will create any pressure or tension, especially on her lower back. She also detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent either. The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not have to be historically accurate, just look the part. I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most of these requirements. I haven't really studied them as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less so will create a tent-like appearance. Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but not snugly. This picture from a series of German prints also gave me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified. http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks, Annette M __ Yahoo! Mail for Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fitting issues
Hm...Having fibromyalgia myself, I can tell you that the *weight* of the garment is as important as the fit. And 'dragging' along long lengths of fabric, no matter how pretty, really can cause the fatigue that makes the pain pretty darned unendurable. If you make a houppeland, make sure it's out of a fairly lightweight fabric. I used to wear italian ren, and then the gowns just got too heavy for me, and I just won't wear a italian ren without the right amount of fabric to get that 'shape and drape' that is so special. Now most of the time I wear a nice tunic over a linen under tunic, that just skims the body so I don't even have to wear a belt. Anything I can carry has to go into a little basket, so I'm forced to not carry more than I have to. Anyhow, you are on the right track thinking about going tunic for her. Elena My future MIL wants a period dress for the wedding too. She is 5'-2 and wears a man's 2x shirt. Due to fibromyalgia she will not wear anything very fitted, a belt, or anything else that will create any pressure or tension, especially on her lower back. She also detests anything that might accentuate the bust. But I don't want to make her look like she is wearing a tent either. The period is 14th - 15th century. Her dress does not have to be historically accurate, just look the part. I was thinking a houppelande would do well with most of these requirements. I haven't really studied them as to fit so I don't know just how fitted they might be over the bust and waist. I wonder if making it less so will create a tent-like appearance. Or perhaps a basic chemise and tunic type dress with side lacing so that it can be gathered in a bit, but not snugly. This picture from a series of German prints also gave me some ideas. The woman on the right, but simplified. http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE23AX.HTML Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks, Annette M __ Yahoo! Mail for Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
Whoa I'm Elena o' Tighearnaigh (SCA name)... The email that is being replied to below by this poster is NOT FROM ME! The entirety of what I wrote is: Wow! I was at my local Joanne's (Everett, Washington USA) and they had *whole* bolts of the 90 and 120. Where are you located? I've not been following this thread until I happned to see this...Since I go to Joanne's alot because I'm also really into Quilting, I certainly wouldn't badmouth this chain. Gia -- Original message -- On Thursday 11 August 2005 4:37 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [snip] I don't hate JoAnn's as many people do. I'm lucky enough to live in a big city where there are lots of other places to go for the fabrics that JoAnn's doesn't carry. I wouldn't badmouth the entire JoAnn's chain, because people's comments on this list suggest that individual JoAnn's stores vary greatly in the size and variety of their fabric selection and the intelligence and usefulness of their employees. The JoAnn's nearest to me is fairly lame in both categories, but it's clear that other people have had different experiences. In fact, I once visited a JoAnn's I normally don't shop at, 25 miles away from me in NE Philadelphia, and found about 2 yards of the most beautiful rust-colored silk broadcloth I have ever seen, before or since (they were having a clearance sale at the time). -- Cathy Raymond So what if the universe is a pointless mass of hydrogen refuse powered by entropy. I'm spreading ketchup on a rubber duck, and after that I'm going to brush its teeth. So there.-- Rob Landley ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Muslin at JoAnn Fabrics (not)
Wow! I was at my local Joanne's (Everett, Washington USA) and they had *whole* bolts of the 90 and 120. Where are you located? (Sorry for the cross-post. I wanted everyone to know what I've found out in case it pertains to you.) Over the next few months, I will need to make the ruffles for Truly Victorian's Grand Bustle (took the class at Costume College but we didn't have time to make the ruffles) and make two, maybe three Victorian petticoats The bolt of muslin I bought a couple of years ago is finally gone, so I needed to buy more. I decided that getting the 90 or 120 high-quality muslin with my JoAnn's 40% coupon would be the best use of my time and energies (fewer seams on the ruffles, less cutting and tearing), so I went to my neighborhood JoAnn's. They had very little of the 90 muslin and none of the 120 muslin. They had about 8 yards of the 200 count 90 muslin over three bolts. The Ron-Lok is disappearing too. When I asked at the cutting table, the lady said that JoAnn's now has their own label of muslin and will be selling it exclusively once the old stuff is gone. I fingered that stuff, and it wasn'g good enough for my needs. I bought what I could of the 200 count stuff and went to the farther away JoAnn's on Sunday. They had none of the 200 count muslin at all and very little of the Ron-Lok, and I'm talking the 45 width too! And it wasn't UNbleached, but it certainly wasn't the usual white bleached color either. The JoAnn's brand of muslin is fine for making practice clothes (muslins) and probably fine for flat lining, but I didn't like it for a whole petticoat, and I certainly wouldn't wear bloomers (pantilettes, whatever) out of it. Perhaps once the sizing was washed out of it and it was shrunk down with some really hot water, it would look better, but I won't buy any of it if it's going to be near skin. At any rate, if you want good-quality muslin from JoAnn's go NOW. Or find a new supplier. I was really disappointed because I love the 200 count bleached muslin I have bought there before. And for all I know, this is old news to most people. As I said, I had my own bolt of muslin for the past couple of years and I hadn't bought any recently. I guess I'll go back to Discount Fabrics for bolts again... I don't hate JoAnn's as many people do. I'm lucky enough to live in a big city where there are lots of other places to go for the fabrics that JoAnn's doesn't carry. LynnD ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Handkerchief Linen
Personally, I find this material the best to wear in hot muggy weather. I have several yards of it to make 'modern full length and half slips. I don't know if the cotton slips are showinf up other plcwa, but here in Everett, WA the Target store has been carrying cotton slips foe a while and I love them. But I think linen would be better. I also love the feel of the linen on my skin... But, as I menrioned, it's just my personal preference. Elena (not the other Elena with a web page) -- Original message -- Bjarne, Thanks for the information. By Pros and Cons it means good and bad aspects of working with and wearing the fabric. So based on your email is is very easy to work with, albeit expensive, but is it uncomfortable to wear? Does it breathe or is it oppresive? Thanks, Wendi Bjarne wrote: Hi Wendi, I dont know what you mean with Pros and Cons is, but i have imported the most expensive and lovely handkerchief linen from Rotterdam. I made my 18th century gentlemans shirt of it, and it is very very lovely to work with, irons well, washes well, and alas very very expensive. Also my stock cravat is made of this material. Let me know what this pros and cons are. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] FW: Secret report stolen from the costumer's guild
Really funnyEnjoy!!! -- Slan go foill Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri Emer's Needle Wares Subject: Secret report stolen from the costumer's guild Date:Tue, 19 Jul 2005 14:33:41 + Scientific Study Reveals Hypnotizing Effect A recent study has indicated that fabric gives off certain Pheromones, that actually hypnotize women and cause them to purchase ungodly amounts. When stored in large quantities in enclosed spaces, the Pheromones (in the fabric) cause memory loss and induce the nesting syndrome (similar to the one squirrels have before the onset of winter, i.e. storing food), therefore perpetuating their species, and not having a population loss due to their kind being cut up into pieces and mixed with others. Sound tests have also revealed that these fabrics emit a very high-pitched sound, heard only by a select few of breed of women known as 'Costumers'. When played backwards on an LP, the sounds are heard as chants 'buy me, cut me, sew me! In order to overcome the so-called 'feeding frenzy effect' that these fabrics cause, one must wear a face mask when entering a storage facility and use ear plugs to avoid being pulled into their grip. (One must laugh, however, at the sight of customers in a fabric store, with WW2 army gas masks and headphones!). Studies have also indicated that aliens have inhabited the earth, helping to spread the effect that these fabrics have on the human population. They are called FABRIC STORE CLERKS. It's also been my experience that these same Pheromones cause a pathological need to secret these fabric purchases away when taken home (or at least blend them into the existing stash), and when asked by a significant other if the fabric is new, the reply is I've had it for a while. (Originally published in August 1997 in the Western North Carolina Quilters Guild Newsletter) Youth is when we are always hunting greener pastures, and middle age is when we can barely mow the one we've got. [Uh oh; nowadays I have someone else mow it for me!] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] embroidery for purses
Stunning as always...How much would you charge if I wanted just the piece not set into anything? I have a plan... -- Slan go foill Elena ÓTighearnaigh Átha An Ri Emer's Needle Wares Hi, I have uploaded 4 different embroideries for purses so that you can have a look. They need to be ironed, shameless of me, but i just wanted to hurry along. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/purseembroideries.htm Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
