[h-cost] Question re a future family heirloom (hopefully)
Not fully costume related, but I would love some ideas from you all. I have been asked to make my Grandson a Christening Gown :). He will be about 18 months old and it is to be held near a rock pool. For anyone who has seen the film Whale Rider, it is this area of NZ!I have been asked to make it represent his heritage (Maori and Kiwi-Irish). I was thinking about smocking the yoke with maori patterns evoking the sea and a whales tail (which is the local motif) and a hem showing the family crests as small repeat motifs like an embroidered border.I don't attend church and have no idea what is current/traditional. How much colour is used? Can I use full colour, very muted tones or is it supposed to be white and cream? As he will be toddling, would a long jacket over a suit with trousers be a good idea?Many thanks in advance.Lynlee ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 12, Issue 15
I looked up the site and it does not show well in web address so Google Shabraque belonging to Cornet Crompton, 15th (King's) Hussars in images compared to http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2618/4180065732_174388490c.jpg From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 12, Issue 15 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 12:00:01 -0700 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: wickedf...@gmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 15:08:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Schabraques I'd love to see what you are talking aboutgot any links? Threads just had an article on trim something that sounds like what you are talking about... On Sat, Jan 19, 2013 at 9:29 PM, lynlee o bahr...@live.com.au wrote: I am making a number of 15th Hussars Shabraques to replace club ones lost in a bush fire. The lost ones used felt to give the sharks tooth trim but I found an image of an extant one and it has much smaller teeth and I was wondering if folded ribbon would be the way to go. Should I stich it all down or leave the tips free?Bahriah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- -Sg- --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: f...@lavoltapress.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:30:24 -0800 Subject: [h-cost] As interesting as what did they use instead of tampons http://rogueclassicism.com/2013/01/19/roman-toilet-papergame-piece-revisionism/ Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Schabraques
I am making a number of 15th Hussars Shabraques to replace club ones lost in a bush fire. The lost ones used felt to give the sharks tooth trim but I found an image of an extant one and it has much smaller teeth and I was wondering if folded ribbon would be the way to go. Should I stich it all down or leave the tips free?Bahriah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] old thread
I have used old thread with no problem but feel guilty at using my Grandmothers wooden spool as they are not overly common. I think a lot depends on what dye was used and whether is has been in the sun or excess heat during storage. I have noticed my embroidery machine thread got stroppy after a few weeks when I had the machine near a window.The best answer is probably to test sew a bit, wash it a couple of times and try to pull it apart.Lynlee ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] silly question
Can someone tell me if there is a website etc where I can search old topics?? I found out about this group by reading someone referring to it and emailing the listed address.I have been saving all the emails for future reference, but it does run to quite a few over a year. :) Claricia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 247
I waited until I got to a real computer and could snip my reply this time :)I have a Tajima Neo embroidery machine. It is very clever but VERY big and heavy (and fun)Speaking of machines, has anyone got or used an Able 290? It is a hand crank patching machine replicating an 1880ish design. It moves the seam in the direction of the foot with a 360 degree swivel and can be used for bags and shoes etc. I met a guy selling them new over the weekend and am seriously tempted but they are made in China.Lynlee What model of machine do you have? Thanks, Fran On 11/1/2012 3:22 PM, lynlee o wrote: Machines can either do chain or other types. I can even add sequins on mine. The evenness can be digitized out by individual placement of stitches. Thickness can be adjusted by the number of passes or bean. Repeat patterns can have variability added by slight size or angle changes, just enough to fool the eye. There are now spiral fills which give quite an opus anglorum look. No real stem stitch but a very highly angled satin stitch or tatiama. Good programmes can do colour blending and photo like images. I can do applique and even embroider leather. You can also do free standing lace which is good for miniature making or getting just the right design. Sorry I can't snip from my new tablet. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re machine embroidery
Machines can either do chain or other types. I can even add sequins on mine. The evenness can be digitized out by individual placement of stitches. Thickness can be adjusted by the number of passes or bean. Repeat patterns can have variability added by slight size or angle changes, just enough to fool the eye. There are now spiral fills which give quite an opus anglorum look. No real stem stitch but a very highly angled satin stitch or tatiama. Good programmes can do colour blending and photo like images. I can do applique and even embroider leather. You can also do free standing lace which is good for miniature making or getting just the right design. Sorry I can't snip from my new tablet. From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 246 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 12:00:01 -0600 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: bete...@mostlymedieval.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 09:40:32 -0700 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. I found something. Someone on a forum or something like that was asking about a Kameez Lengha (sometimes spelled lahenga) which is the tunic with the skirt. I guess Lengha means skirt. Anyway, they were saying that this was the Pakistani style as opposed to the lengha choli which is more of an Indian style. So maybe your outfit is Pakastani? Teena From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 12:15 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. Lauren, Thanks for the link!! Not a lehenga choli like those pictures. No. The top is a *tunic* and not a choli. It's as if you were to take a Punjabi pantsuit *tunic* and place it over the long lovely skirt from the Lehenga choli. I'll find time later to post the pic of me wearing it. I'm unforgivably paleface, but the outfit is nice :) ==Marjorie Wilser On Nov 1, 2012, at 7:36 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: It's a lehenga choli. http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/ The Punjabi pantsuit is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli is often used for bridal wear. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: f...@lavoltapress.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 09:53:01 -0700 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Umm. . . please say something historical? Well, I DID say I was looking for a machine with the idea of doing historical embroidery that looked sort of accurate, and wondered if there were many available historical designs or if not, how to digitize my own. Blackwork is a nice idea but I'm also interested in other kinds of embroidery. I'm sure embroidery machines can do satin stitch, but can they do chain stitch? What kinds of stitches comparable to hand stitches are available on embroidery machines, other than straight sewing, zigzag, satin stitch, and the kinds of seam finishes available on sewing machines like my Bernina 1008? I'm not that impressed by the blackwork samples someone linked to, but I think they would have been improved by use of a heavier thread. The real difficulty I saw was a machine-like regularity. This list isn't very active, so let's not spoil a conversation by over policing. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 10/31/2012 11:06 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Hi guys, Technology is wonderful. . . and for theatre costuming I'm sure it's a timesaver. But I'm laboring under the illusion that this is a historical costuming list, and wearying of machine embroidery (begging all your pardon. . . 'tis true). Please somebody, talk historical costume? ==Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: f...@lavoltapress.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 09:57:41 -0700 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. Marjorie, Are these historic garments, or is this an inappropriately non-historic discussion? Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com On 11/1/2012 9:15 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Lauren,
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 242
How many relatively accurate (for any period) premade historic embroidery designs are out there? Is it essential to digitize most of your own to get anything decent? Fran Lavolta Press Not many pre-existing ones, but if you find a good digitiser, you can commission quite a few. Most charge by the stitch which can make it expensive for satin stitch and totally filled designs, but for blackwork and such, they can be relatively small and therefore reasonably priced. It all depends on how much you are really going to do. Claricia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] USB's
USB's are great. If you have trouble using a new one, check the size. My fancy Tajima won't read more than 1MB. It can be hard to find small ones now so I bought up big. The designs take so little room that you can get heaps on each one. Lynlee From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 241 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 12:00:01 -0600 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: f...@lavoltapress.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 17:25:55 -0700 Subject: [h-cost] How to clean vintage metal presser feet? I discovered that low-shank, side-clamping vintage feet will work on my Bernina 1008 with the aid of one of the adapters sold to me with an eBay lot of modern generic feet. There are sizable box lots of suitable vintage feet on eBay, at lower prices than one Bernina foot or even most generic feet. I have avoided buying any feet that looked rusty in the photos. I still think they are grubby and I want to clean them before putting them in contact with my sewing projects. I am not sure what metal they are made of, and since they are not all the same brand and date they may not be all the same metal. My guess is steel or a steel alloy but I am not sure. Some feet appear to be chromed, most not. One of the attachments has a black finish. What is the safest way to clean them? Also, I now have several vintage rufflers and tuckers that will fit my machine because one or two of each seem to be in every box lot. They appear to be rather stiff, but I am not sure whether they are supposed to be oiled, or what. Any info from anyone who restores vintage sewing attachments would be appreciated. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic sewing patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress --Forwarded Message Attachment--From: costu...@radiks.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 23:53:00 -0500 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Embroiderry software This means you probably don't want a Husqvarna. While they are great machines (hubby has one and loves it), they will only use the particular USB drive sold by them. When he lost his, it was over $75 to get a new one. Sandy At 12:10 PM 10/27/2012, you wrote: Yes, Embird seems to have a lot of fans, as offering good features for the price. As for how the designs get onto the machine, I definitely want a machine with a USB drive. Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic sewing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress I am thinking of buying a Brother PE770, which is a fairly inexpensive dedicated embroidery machine. It takes a flash drive so I can import designs from my computer. I want to do historic embroidery designs and I want to create or at least customize my own. I'm used to using graphic design software (scan editing and draw programs), but I know little about embroidery design software. Any suggestions? Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com International Costumers' Guild Archivist http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php Those Who Fail to Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C. Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroiderry software
I have a commercial embroidery machine and we recently lost useability of the digitizing programme I had. Watch that whatever you buy will work on subsequent computers if you are spending a lot. Pulse designed for 32 bit computers will NOT work on 64 bit !! The upgrade is a mere $5000. Pretty steep when it was them that didn't consider future compatibilty. Wilcom offers similar features and a similar price for a trade in. They really seem to be the biggest commercial brands (in English speaking countries anyway)Having said that, there is freebie stuff around e.g. Sofiesew and Thread. Both have strengths and weaknesses. For a full commercial grade software, I-cliqq is pretty good value for money, but it is still expensive for fully functional software rather than limited size/ stitch numbers or rearranging existing designs. You can buy or commission a lot of designs for the price of the software. If you do commission a design, specify what textural finish you want or you will! get satin stitch by default, which is not always appropriate. I know my requirements a different from a domestic machine, but if you are doing costume work you will also need to have options for underlay stitches and changing density to account for differing fabrics. Some of the cheaper domestic programs may not have many options.Feel free to contact me for any other information. I hope to have my new software in the next week or so and may be able to take digitizing commissions as soon as I am up and running. At least a fellow costumer will have a better idea of authentic look than some off shore cheapie firms. Although it would be nice to do hand embroidery, realistically I have too many other things on my schedule. For a while I toyed with the idea of getting a high-end sewing/embroidery machine, but I already have two perfectly good sewing machines and a huge price tag is a bit intimidating. I am thinking of buying a Brother PE770, which is a fairly inexpensive dedicated embroidery machine. It takes a flash drive so I can import designs from my computer. I want to do historic embroidery designs and I want to create or at least customize my own. I'm used to using graphic design software (scan editing and draw programs), but I know little about embroidery design software. Any suggestions? Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bra-building
Not an on line source but I have a Woman's Division sewing handbook from about 1940 giving instructions on making your own. If you get desperate I could scan it and email Lynlee From: lili...@earthlink.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 11:12:28 -0400 Subject: [h-cost] Brassiere assistance sought Does anyone know of a trustworthy bra building e-mail list? Some of my searches turn up rather... uh... inappropriately salacious boards. I would also like to find some of the materials needed to fix some bras or build new ones from scratch. I am in the US. Thanks Lilinah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] white glue
That being said for white glue, try carpenters glue (the yellow stuff). Obviously not period, but they make one that is a bit flexible for furniture and once it dries, it pretty much stays dried. Kate . White glue is not waterproof. If you soak it, it softens and you can scrape it away. Appologies for what may be a regionally based error of judgement on my part. The white glue you refer to must be different from the one I am familiar with from NZ.This is the one used in the woodwork shop. It is used to glue dowels.It is watered down and used as a sealer.It is used on school projects to hold paper creations together.It dries clear and can be combined with paint to make lift-off window stickers like the purchased Christmas decalsI guess this may well be another case of the generic product being a poor copy of the original, which I would be happy to use on a hat. RegardsLynlee ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] water soluble
I believe Stiffy is essentially white glue. It's water soluble, so you'd better make sure you don't wear your hat in the rain! I wouldn't risk it... Ooh! That is extremely important to know. In that case, Stiffy does not sound like the right stuff. Thanks for the tip! If it is white glue, then it won't dissolve. A lot of modern products are water soluble when you get them but once they dry they don't re-dissolve. Think water based exterior paint; it doesn't wash off.If you are unsure - trial it before using it.RehardsLynlee ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] embroidery and irons
I can't stand the scratchiness of the embroidery on a couple of outfits I bought in Florida the last time we went down for a shuttle launch, so, I need to devise a partial lining that won't make them too hot. I do commercial embroidery by machine. The embroiderer probably used a syntetic instead of cotton underthread. You can't change that now, but there are fusable backings which you can iron on to soften the backing. I concluded that the way to get an old-fashioned iron was to just buy an old iron. There are a lot of them out there. I am very hopeful about my upcoming vintage GE (and since it has a polyester setting it can't be an antique!), but if that does not live up to its unused-looking shiny promise in the seller's photo and description, I will just keep buying old irons till I get one that works.My iron is a Sunbeam domestic one from about 15 years ago. In light of your comments, I am in no hurry to upgrade to a new one. The thing I found then was that most of the ones on the market were nice and light to make ironing easy. I had one and biffed itas instead of letting the weight of the iron do the work, I had to push down on it to do any meaningful ironing. Give me a nice heavy one any day.I guess you get used to your own equipment. The one thing I do to look after it is to only use distilled water so I don't get gunk building up.Not only does it cause gritty bits to fall out, it plays havoc with the theromstat. All water is not equal. The less minerals the better for irons and car batteries.Lynlee ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] GRRR
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 12:31:49 -0700 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Gr ... ! Well, those two I can understand, as you can make them easily. Tarragon in hot wine vinegar; let steep, and sugar in the blender. Sharon C. Sam's does carry a larger assortment of products than Costco. Costco only carries 4,000 products. Off the mainland U.S., Costco carries more products...I've been to their stores in Hawaii and Liverpool, England...love them! I wish we had the choices these location have. My beloved hubby does our shopping. (And he can tell cotton from linen fabric too!) He has to go to 3 supermarkets to get food without additives. One shop has a 10% discount for your 5 favourite buys. We can no longer find 5 things worth buying in the shop! Malt vingear from the house brands is diluted acetic acid with caramel added ! YUMThe bands without added tartrazine colour have been deleted. Plain sugar has anti-caking agent added which means it makes lousy fudge!Dumb bunnies in bulk fabric shops think linen and silk are textures not fibres. The world isn't what it was - I must be getting old!!! NO! LynleePS sorry this is off topic, but I did get fabric in there :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 66
On Mar 13, 2012, at 11:44 AM, Lynn Downward wrote: Sorry about the poor link.That's all that was offered in the article. But isn't it GORGEOUS!?! Lynn Absolutely amazing. Look at the size of stone on the gloves worn by the Cardinal holding the tongue in pincers!!! The gloves are all quite flesh toned and I only realised that they are all wearing them when I wondered how the jewellery was being held in place. At first I thought it was a Rosary/Paternoster being wound around their hands - til I went super close up. My dummy is a brand new self made version (as the daughter bound my bust down so it looked like Arnie on a bad day). Tonight she will be wearing a blue linen 12th C dress. I am making my first one with lacing, hopefully to wear next weekend. Claricia ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] partlets
Hi, I am not nearly as experienced here as most of you, but looking at the pictures, what I see is not always brocade with brocade or always black velvet if plain, but that the partlet always matches another fabric in the dress. The black velvet partlet matches the black velvet on the sleeves, the brocade partlet matches the brocade in the dress. I don't think that from 3 or 4 images you can make any tighter assumption. Unless you are doing an exact reproduction of a picture, I do not think anyone can call your plan unsupported. It appears to me that the partlet fabric was likely chosen to balance the design and/or make best use of available fabric. I am sure the gowns in pictures were a tiny minority of all gowns made and probably chosen as those with the best sense of symetry and balance to the eye of the painter rather than painted to be a representation for today in fashion. I believe details were included to show allegorical and political messages, rather than photographic-style accuracy in many paintings. The whole painting was to represent the person to the world as they wished to be seen, they may not have even been wearing brocade on the day! Note that there are different brocades in exactly the same colour pallet. I believe this is evidence of massaging reality with artistic licence. Lynlee I've been planning some fabric purchases with a new Tudor court gown (in a 1540s - 1550s style) in mind and have ordered some red silk taffeta I was originally planning to include a matching partlet but I've encountered a problem. The portraits I can find are either plain black silk with a matte (probably velvet) partlet e.g. a velvet gown with a matching velvet partlet e.g. a brocade gown with a matching brocade partlet e.g. What I can't find is a gown made of a plain coloured (for these purposes I'm not counting black as a colour) silk (e.g. satin or taffeta) with a partlet. This evidence leads me to two possible conclusions either the only time a partlet is not made of velvet is when it's a brocade or that if you have a coloured gown you make the partlet out of the same dress. So I'm hoping that either somebody else on this list has a better art collection than me and can provide an example of a coloured silk gown with a partlet or, failing that, somebody can make a good logical argument why one is more likely than the other. -- -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Burda
I was just looking at some old Burda magazines last night and found the Obituary edition with Anna Burda's life history. My Mother used them in the old days of german language only. I still have a few copies. This is where I got my only real german language from - you could say I sew in German. :) I had so many modern issues that I donated to the local High School - with visiting rights! I love adding my own seam allowance and find they are the best drafted patterns in that notches actually line up first time, mixing, enlarging and reducing sizes works really well, and seeing the difference in the draft between sizes is good for a novices conceptualisation of pattern alteration. It is funny to note that our German exchange daughter's mother (who works in a craft/fabric shop) had never heard of Burda. I asked if they could send me the Christmas special editions as the NZ distribbuter refused to import them because by the time they arrived, via sea, the season had finished. Lynlee That's really interesting information. I knew about later periods with patterns later in the 19C and in the 20th but this early information is all new. Thanks for sharing. Having worked with Burda patterns from their magazines (in German without the seam allowances) before I made costumes and learned more, I can only imagine that the women sewing from their homes from these magazines had to be really determined to get that pattern. LynnD ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 47
We have noticed that whenever a new product comes out, the software you love and has worked perfectly suddenly gets bugs. I am sure this is very convenient for those selling such products. We did notice that when our cell phones did this, if we made complaints, the problems were fixed for a day or two, but if we told them we were changing networks they stopped for a month or two. I am sure this is coincidence, but the best vote of no confidence is withdrawing your custom and telling them why. Good luck with your bidding software. From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 47 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 12:00:00 -0700 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: f...@lavoltapress.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 13:26:04 -0800 Subject: [h-cost] Need recommendations for eBay bidding software I buy a lot of vintage laces, embroidered linens (for sewing), and vintage publications on eBay. I always bid near the end of the auction (snipe) because bidding early just drives the price up. But, years ago I started using bidding software because I did not want to mind my auctions--especially the ones that end in the wee hours of the morning. The program I have been using is refusing to log me on even though it has confirmed I have the correct user ID and password. I suppose another session with tech support might straighten it out. But I am also dissatisfied because some time ago, this software quit letting me add bids on non-US auctions. It's a bug they said they would fix at least a year ago, but they have not. I want bidding software to be installed on my machine, not a bidding service in the cloud. I just don't like having my software and data in the cloud. Any recommendations? Thanks! Fran Lavolta Press www.lavoltapress.com http://www.lavoltapress.com http://www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 35
I use a Tajima Neo, which is a whole bigger beast but it is possible to do edging. It is much easier to hoop the fabric before an item is made than do edges on a finished item. You can use underlay to make up the difference in area in the hoop. Lining everything up will take a bit of experience. It is more important that you can design and import digitising to your machine. If you are limited to old technology (floppy disks etc) you may be stuck with a pretty limited selection, and that is unlikely to be great for reproductions. Lynlee I am planning to buy an embroidery machine and my local shop has a used Designer 1 machine. Is this machine still suitable or should I be looking at newer machines? I want to do embroidery on edges of fabric, ie like a ruffle, and so on for historical reproduction sewing. Many thanks, Aylwen Sent from my iPad ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 29
For a first machine, I would look for an Estate sale. I believe the older simpler machines are actually less confusing to learn on, force you to use good seam technique rather than fancy stitches and are a whole lot more solid. My Mother had a Husqvana and she used it for everything from ballet dresses to canvas horse covers. She worked it hard and it lasted over 40 years. I bought a new Pfaff Tiptronic 29 years ago and loved it dearly. I learned to sew on it. It developed a small fault in that the clutch did not disconnect when bobbin winding and I bought a Janome as a pressy to myself. I got the Pfaff serviced and gave it to my daughter. The clutch still doesn't work and I still use it when I want to sew tough stuff as the Janome simply won't stitch even thin leather, or thick denim. I bought a Janome overlocker (serger) site unseen from an auction house for $28 about 15 years ago. It has purred ever since, apart from the fact that I didn't realise where all the oiling points were and it needed attention for nasty noises. I have seen some of the cheaper brands offered a beginner specials and they can be nasty. The problems they develop will put people off learning. Ask around though, there are a lot of machines sitting around and the owners are often happy for them to get a good home if it helps a young person start sewing. I have seen half a dozen such transactions over the tea room table at work. Lynlee I have been asked by a friend who has a daughter who wants to learn to sew to make costumes to come to our vintage dances. She asked what would be a good starter machine. Does any one here have recommendations? Thanks. -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 15
Re red flannel I have noticed in fabric shops that some dyes make the same fabric feel different in different colours. Perhaps the red dye permitted the flannel to stay a little fluffier than other colours in use early on. Lynlee ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 10, Issue 327
Milk jug plastic is very meliable and is probably fine for short term use but will break down with time into sharp pieces, probably to be more environmentally friendly in land fills, so if the garment is going to be washed (like a shirt collar) or going to stay intact for extended periods (like a doll) you need something more durable. I have used the clear, self supporting plastic from boxes (e.g. shirt or Christmas decoration boxes) to great effect. 2 layers of lamination plastic stuck together makes good template plastic by the way, you might might try a single layer with no paper as it comes in different thicknesses and is designed to last a while and take the heat of ironing. I don't know about milk jug plastic and corsets, but I do know that milk jug plastic is just the thing to cut a collar stay replacement on a man's shirt. Henry W. Osier President, Armed Costumers Guild On Staff for TeslaCon 3 in 2012, Chicon 7 in 2012, and Chicago TARDIS 2012 --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: the3t...@gmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 17:30:17 -0800 Subject: Re: [h-cost] artificial whalebone I'll echo that, Henry. It's too soft for most purposes, but for collar stays, perfect. Also good for mask parts, visors, and the like, which need stiffening but flexibility. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 10, Issue 319
Re gloves: Gloves also had a very practical use in times of poor hygiene, they limited the bacteria one was subjected to and therefore were a genuine safety feature - especially if in leather which is not absorbtive. It is amazing to me how many social and religious dictums actually evloved out of sound scientific princilpes. Some of which have been abused, some forgotten, some ignored for no better reason than being different/trendy. I recall the scandal among the womone's fashion writers when Princess Diana went to an event with bare legs instead of stockings/tights. Understanding the fashion and understanding the social expectations are so closely linked it is fascinating. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 10, Issue 316
I have used the thicker lids of ice cream containers as inners for caps. It cuts well and you can actually put the odd stitch into it. It stood up to kids and has a nice firm maliability. Milk jugs here are now way too thin to be useful to me, and they break down into sharp bits quickly in the sun - I used then as garden cloches for vege plants. Diane Someone suggested to me once that cutting strips from a milk jug makes wonderful boning for smaller projects, like dolls. I haven't had time to test it myself, but it seems like a pretty good idea. You can always double up on layers if you need it a bit stiffer too. Natalie From: Danielle Nunn-Weinberggilshal...@comcast.net To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:01 AM Subject: [h-cost] artificial whalebone Greetings, Has anyone had much luck cutting down the white plastic artificial whalebone, into much smaller pieces, say length-wise? I've tried soaking it in boiling water first to try and soften it up, I tried using a brand new exacto knife, scissors, and all I got was a mess and sore hands. I'm trying to create doll-sized (22) boning from the full sized piece since I can't seem to find anything that would make good doll boning in and of itself. If anyone has suggestions, I would ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 10, Issue 282
Taylors Dummy: I never had one until I read how to make your own on a Yahoogroups site: Old t-shirt, get thoroughly strapped in with boxing tape then cut it off and stuff it. Perfect fit - except the daughter strapped my bust down a bit hard and it looks like Arnie on a bad day. Make sure you wear a good solid bra and strap upwards not downwards. Off the dummy I have a rusty orange brown silk underdress on the go. I found some kimono fabric of exactly the same colour to use for trims. Also I got some pure silk georgette to make summer tops (I'm in Aus) so I really should get them done before November. Lynlee From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 10, Issue 282 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 18:58:08 -0600 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: annbw...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 16:25:57 -0400 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? I need to make for Federal/Empire/Regency wardrobe I have to finish by mid-January. What is the occasion for this lovely wardrobe? Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Oct 6, 2011 10:22 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? always love this thread but, alas, I have no dressmakers dummy. If I id, however, she would be wearing one of the pieces I need to make for Federal/Empire/Regency wardrobe I have to finish by mid-January. The all gown is mostly done but I still need a pelisse, walking or carriage own, new shift, new stays, new bonnet, and maybe a new cap. - Hope __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: annbw...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 16:28:12 -0400 Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? But as for not having a dummy, don't despair! I found one in a trash can several years ago--I did need to go to the hardware store to find a fitting to hold the stand together, but other than that, she was absolutely free! Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Oct 6, 2011 10:22 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? always love this thread but, alas, I have no dressmakers dummy. If I id, however, she would be wearing one of the pieces I need to make for Federal/Empire/Regency wardrobe I have to finish by mid-January. The all gown is mostly done but I still need a pelisse, walking or carriage own, new shift, new stays, new bonnet, and maybe a new cap. - Hope __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: pinn...@mccc.edu To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 20:33:48 + Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? A friend of mine found a Wolf professional dummy with the collapsable shoulders (in my size!) in her neighbor's sidewalk trash and brought it to me. I just had to oil the wheels and let it dry out a little since it had rained that morning. Kate Pinner -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2011 4:28 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? But as for not having a dummy, don't despair! I found one in a trash can several years ago--I did need to go to the hardware store to find a fitting to hold the stand together, but other than that, she was absolutely free! Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Oct 6, 2011 10:22 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? always love this thread but, alas, I have no dressmakers dummy. If I id, however, she would be wearing one of the pieces I need to make for Federal/Empire/Regency wardrobe I have to finish by mid-January. The all gown is mostly done but I still need a pelisse, walking or carriage own, new shift, new stays, new bonnet, and maybe a
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 10, Issue 244
I was wondering why Miss Botswana is wearing a Maori Pupu? I believe genetically Maori are closer to Vietnam and Thailand than Africa - perhaps it is a tribute to Rugby (World Cup competition is currently in NZ). Miss Ireland looks like she was wearing recycled DVD's. This could be poking fun at the economic state in Ireland at present, and the fact that the same old styles get trotted out again and again - like a bad film. How many bird wings and carnival skirts? At least she was original, pity it wasn't flattering. I think they should re-name the section Wearable Art with a passing referrence to your homeland From: h-costume-requ...@indra.com Subject: h-costume Digest, Vol 10, Issue 244 To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 10:30:50 -0600 Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-costume@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: annbw...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:53:32 -0400 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miss Universe 2011 national costumes I was wondering why there was no Miss India? Wondered if they had enough sense to not send anyone to the competition, but I see that isn't the case. I liked Greece, too, and agree that Miss Egypt looked like Liz Taylor as Cleopatra. And someone commented on non-feather wings--well, Miss USA has them with a vengeance! A non-list friend of mine said enough with the Carnivale look and all the birds that gave their lives for those costumes. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Sep 13, 2011 3:23 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miss Universe 2011 national costumes The costume was held up for a week and arrived after the National costume ics (Sept 7) were done. So far I have not found the reason behind the ustoms issue but it is believed that because of the lack of national ostume pic. she lost points. To say the least, many folks in India are icked and want to know why as well. Of coarse there is the rumor that razil thought Miss India a threat and thus sabotaged her chance to at least ake it into the 16. De -Original Message- am wondering what Miss India had on her costume that couldn't clear ustoms. Any guesses __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -Original Message- From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Sep 13, 2011 3:23 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Miss Universe 2011 national costumes The costume was held up for a week and arrived after the National costume ics (Sept 7) were done. So far I have not found the reason behind the ustoms issue but it is believed that because of the lack of national ostume pic. she lost points. To say the least, many folks in India are icked and want to know why as well. Of coarse there is the rumor that razil thought Miss India a threat and thus sabotaged her chance to at least ake it into the 16. De -Original Message- am wondering what Miss India had on her costume that couldn't clear ustoms. Any guesses __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: ca...@thyrsus.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:57:24 -0400 Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Pattern Company? They've been around for awhile. I haven't bought from them, but my impression is that they are not shooting for reenactor quality reproductions or anything like that--more like sturdy Halloween or live-action rolyplaying costume. -- Cathy Raymond ca...@thyrsus.com Beware how you take away hope from another human being. --Oliver Wendell Holmes --Forwarded Message Attachment-- From: hippy_dippy_dan...@yahoo.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:18:27 -0500 Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Pattern Company? Papal. If they dont take papal and none of the other safe guard are in place like a physical address , then no matter how cool it is i dont deal with them. But my papal account is great leverage. I have 2x had and issue with two different vendors i ordered from and both times just mentioning papal got it resolved to my satisfaction * Bambi Not that on-line only retailers are deliberately trying to dodge, but what recourse does one have, really, if one sends money off into a void and doesn't get anything
