Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
At 19:46 29/01/2006, you wrote: Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]: On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is a wonderful book by the Cunningtons which I believe is out of print. Published, I think in the 50's. I'd like to find living, currently active, working scholars. There seems to be a gap here in current work :-( Probably Ninya Mikhaila http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/costumes2.html She's the lady doing the Tudor Tailor book. Those who've seen advanced copies proclaim it better than Janet Arnold's work. http://www.tudortailor.com/ I did one of the proof reads of this book, and in my opinion it is not better but different. The patterns are not taken from original garments as were Janet Arnold's, but based on considerable research and practical use. The text is comprehensive and detailed. The book will be a great addition to the current range. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
On Mon, 30 Jan 2006, michael tartaglio wrote: Hi, Robin. There were a whole series of articles written in a variety of languages in Waffen und Kostumkunde in the 70s and 80s. Some of the authors are still around. I have found many specialists out there, though, that handle detail info (shoes, clothes fastenings, etc.) that work at a few of the European museums. What are you looking for specifically? By this I mean nationality, sex of wearer (I say this mostly because the majority of the work seems to be directed towards women's fashions, IMO) etc. Mike T. Not any particular costume information; I'm looking for someone to consult on the methodology of a project involving the use of early 16th c. English historical documents in costume research -- someone familiar with the particular range of available documents in this period and their applicability. If it were a particular costume question, I'd have an easier time! --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
Speaking of which...what makes an expert? Someone who is already published? Someone who has a degree in history, research, costuming, or? Someone who has access to primary sources?I am reminded of someone who considered themselves (grammatically incorrect, but gender non-specific) an expert, but wrote off Mairead Dunlevy's book, Dress in Ireland, because she was just a ceramics/pottery expert writing about costume??? Sorry if this offends anyone...not my intention. Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
Quoting Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]: At 19:46 29/01/2006, you wrote: Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]: On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is a wonderful book by the Cunningtons which I believe is out of print. Published, I think in the 50's. I'd like to find living, currently active, working scholars. There seems to be a gap here in current work :-( Probably Ninya Mikhaila http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/costumes2.html She's the lady doing the Tudor Tailor book. Those who've seen advanced copies proclaim it better than Janet Arnold's work. http://www.tudortailor.com/ I did one of the proof reads of this book, and in my opinion it is not better but different. The patterns are not taken from original garments as were Janet Arnold's, but based on considerable research and practical use. The text is comprehensive and detailed. The book will be a great addition to the current range. Cool. It's good to have another perspective on the book. I think that a possible couple of things that may have produced the better comment were color pictures and real patterns. Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
On Jan 30, 2006, at 8:00 AM, Robin Netherton wrote: Costume, though, does not have anywhere near the established avenues. People who pursue costume-related degrees often do so in departments of art history, theater, literature, women's studies, economics, etc. depending on their interest, and establish themselves as scholars in that field with costume as a specialty. Or they may come from outside the academic context, but build experience by doing and presenting research. I can heartily agree with this. I am working on a doctorate in cultural and historical apparel so I've been keenly interested in job postings. I have not seen a single one (and I certainly may have missed some) come across my desk that didn't have fashion merchandising as the main focus. It's why I have an anthropology minor. I don't see me continuing in apparel departments, but I can find a place in anthropology. And don't get me started on grants, etc. Or the lack thereof in our field. My research is an out-of-the- book anthropological ethnographic study, but because I am in an apparel department, there is little to no grant money available, unless I get an anthropology prof to sponsor it. So all my research money is out of pocket which will limit what I can do. It's enough to make one cranky. Althea Turner [EMAIL PROTECTED] Ignorant themselves of the forces of nature and wanting to have company in their ignorance, they don't want people to look into anything; they want us to believe like peasants and not ask the reasons behind things. William of Conches, 12th century ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
On Mon, 30 Jan 2006, WickedFrau wrote: Speaking of which...what makes an expert? Someone who is already published? Someone who has a degree in history, research, costuming, or? Someone who has access to primary sources? In my experience, the answer varies with the type of task at hand. Are you making a costume, trying to locate a historic document or artwork, analyzing a fashion trend, writing a textbook, creating a website? Different skills, knowledge, and research methods are useful in different types of cases. I routinely refer academics to nonacademics (hobbyists, re-enactors, independent scholars) if the latter has the knowledge that the academic lacks, and is doing something that is not being pursued in a formal academic context. It's a question of the finding the best person for the job. In the same way, there is a time when academic credentials or the equivalent are particularly meaningful: not just as a means of asserting that you can be sure this person has put in a certain number of years and produced a certain body of work that has passed inspection by other scholars, but also when you need authors/contributors for a scholarly book or encyclopedia, referees for a scholarly article, or advisors for a graduate student (for example). In such cases, part of what you're looking for is not just knowledge of a topic, but also an understanding of the research process, the academic degree process, or the publishing process. (My day job is as an editor. This is like the difference between a professional copyeditor and the friend who reads your manuscript. The friend may have a good eye and make useful suggestions, but s/he won't know the conventions of Chicago style, copyediting marks, or the editing process. Sharon Farmer once drew the distinction between the botanist and the gardener; same sort of thing.) I say or the equivalent because in this field (see below) it can be sufficient to prove the value of your work through nontraditional means. I am a prime example. I do not have a doctorate at all, and my graduate work is mostly in fields unrelated to costume (my relevant academic background is in English, with smatterings of social science, paleography, art history, and history). However, after years of working as an independent scholar, I have a long list of conference presentations, academic lecturing experience, a handful of publications in refereed journals, experience organizing and running conference sessions, and a decent enough reputation that I was asked to co-edit an academic journal. Yes, I could go back and get the doctorate at any time, but as my Ph.D-bearing friends say, You're already doing what we had to earn a doctorate to get the chance to do. Why would you put yourself through the expense and stress? However, if I wanted to teach at the college level, then I would absolutely need to have an advanced degree. I've found that people are more likely to cross the academic/nonacademic boundaries (and more likely to be accepted when doing so) in costume study as a field than in the more traditional academic fields, such as English/languages, history, economics, etc. That's probably because there is no established academic home for costume study, and very few places to pursue academic degrees. That is, if I were an English scholar, there are plenty of places to study, publish, and teach in that field, so if I chose not to work within that established structure in some way (a degree, or publication in referreed journals) yet still tried to claim I was a scholar in that field, I'd have a lot of trouble convincing people I was legitimate. Costume, though, does not have anywhere near the established avenues. People who pursue costume-related degrees often do so in departments of art history, theater, literature, women's studies, economics, etc. depending on their interest, and establish themselves as scholars in that field with costume as a specialty. Or they may come from outside the academic context, but build experience by doing and presenting research. Costume study also often is interdisciplinary, requiring knowledge from many fields (e.g. archaeology, paleography, art history, economics, social history), which leads to a lot of crossover: I am reminded of someone who considered themselves (grammatically incorrect, but gender non-specific) an expert, but wrote off Mairead Dunlevy's book, Dress in Ireland, because she was just a ceramics/pottery expert writing about costume??? I wonder where that person would have expected to find someone who had more specific credentials, especially in the time that Dunlevy wrote (more than 15 years ago)? Granted, being a ceramics/pottery expert doesn't mean much when it comes to costume, but costume scholars come from all over. It's neither a reason to write someone off, nor a reason to embrace them. It all depends on the quality of the work itself, which might be good or bad. (I certainly have seen plenty of inadequate
[h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
If you were looking for information on 16th c. costume in written sources, whose research/publications would you seek, other than Janet Arnold's? And: Does anyone know if Jane Ashelford is still active, and if so, where she can be located? --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]: If you were looking for information on 16th c. costume in written sources, whose research/publications would you seek, other than Janet Arnold's? And: Does anyone know if Jane Ashelford is still active, and if so, where she can be located? :-D Dressing Renaissance Florence :-D I know that there are a couple of inventories from Henry 8, but I don't know the author. Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
By 16thC, do you mean British Elizabethan, or 16thC everywhere and in general? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
On Sun, 29 Jan 2006, E House wrote: By 16thC, do you mean British Elizabethan, or 16thC everywhere and in general? Sorry -- British, but not just Elizabethan (that is, I'm interested in finding people known for doing work on the first half of the 16th c.). --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
In a message dated 1/29/2006 11:38:48 A.M. Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: By 16thC, do you mean British Elizabethan, or 16thC everywhere and in general? There is a wonderful book by the Cunningtons which I believe is out of print. Published, I think in the 50's. Cheryl Odom ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is a wonderful book by the Cunningtons which I believe is out of print. Published, I think in the 50's. I'd like to find living, currently active, working scholars. There seems to be a gap here in current work :-( --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 14:01:22 -0600 (CST), Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'd like to find living, currently active, working scholars. There seems to be a gap here in current work :-( Have you been in touch with Eva Anderson yet ? She might have some useful suggestions. Gunvor -- Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov Anders (nesten 4 år) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]: On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is a wonderful book by the Cunningtons which I believe is out of print. Published, I think in the 50's. I'd like to find living, currently active, working scholars. There seems to be a gap here in current work :-( Probably Ninya Mikhaila http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/costumes2.html She's the lady doing the Tudor Tailor book. Those who've seen advanced copies proclaim it better than Janet Arnold's work. http://www.tudortailor.com/ Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
At 9:39 AM -0600 1/29/06, Robin Netherton wrote: If you were looking for information on 16th c. costume in written sources, whose research/publications would you seek, other than Janet Arnold's? Doesn't it kind of depend on exactly what kind of 16th century costume you were interested in? The answer is going to be different if you're looking for 16th century Scottish (especially Highland) costume than if you're looking for 16th century English, or Italian, etc. I see in another post you're clarified that you mean British, but not just Elizabethan (that is, I'm interested in finding people known for doing work on the first half of the 16th c.). -- but I'm not entirely sure if by this you actually mean British (including not only Welsh but the various kinds of Scottish) or if you really mean only English. [Alas, it is so common for people to use British and English as synonyms that even when people use British to mean British one often still has to ask...] In any case, I haven't really noticed anyone currently publishing academically on 16th century Scottish clothing, and the best sources for (paper) published information on historical Scottish costume (from many centuries, though usually but not always concentrating on Highland clothing) in written sources are still the works of John Telfar Dunbar and H. F. McClintock (see http://MedievalScotland.org/clothing/books/). Turning to web publications, there is my Historical Scottish Clothing Project http://MedievalScotland.org/clothing/project.shtml, but it is still in early stages (and somewhat stalled by my plans to switch to dynamic database driven web pages) and currently only has a little that is not already in Dunbar and/or McClintock. Sharon -- Sharon Krossa, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language more: Medieval Scotland - http://MedievalScotland.org/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
On Sun, 29 Jan 2006, Sharon L. Krossa wrote: I see in another post you're clarified that you mean British, but not just Elizabethan (that is, I'm interested in finding people known for doing work on the first half of the 16th c.). -- but I'm not entirely sure if by this you actually mean British (including not only Welsh but the various kinds of Scottish) or if you really mean only English. [Alas, it is so common for people to use British and English as synonyms that even when people use British to mean British one often still has to ask...] In this case, English -- sorry for not being specific. Frankly, I can't think of very many people who are currently doing scholarly work in dress study anywhere in Britain focusing on 16th c. documents (as opposed to art, archaeology, or reconstruction -- I know who to call on those), which is why I inquired about Jane Ashelford. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th c. costume experts?
Hi, Robin. There were a whole series of articles written in a variety of languages in Waffen und Kostumkunde in the 70s and 80s. Some of the authors are still around. I have found many specialists out there, though, that handle detail info (shoes, clothes fastenings, etc.) that work at a few of the European museums. What are you looking for specifically? By this I mean nationality, sex of wearer (I say this mostly because the majority of the work seems to be directed towards women's fashions, IMO) etc. Mike T. If you were looking for information on 16th c. costume in written sources, whose research/publications would you seek, other than Janet Arnold's? And: Does anyone know if Jane Ashelford is still active, and if so, where she can be located? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
