Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Slight correction to the URL provided. It should be elizabethstewartclark.com http://elizabethstewertclark.com/ The site has a great article on assembling a Best Bet wardrobe that should be required reading for Civil War re-enacting women. MaggiRos On Sun, Jul 5, 2009 at 8:03 PM, Laura Chambers cha...@hotmail.com wrote: A good simple dress would be a gathered bodice with coat or bishop sleeves and a cartridge pleated skirt. Simplicity had a very good pattern by Martha McCain that was an easy way to get started if you can find it. I don't remember the # but the main dress on the front is a yellow dress and the lady has a straw hat on and a basket. Past Pattern also has a gathered/darted bodice pattern and you can get directions on how to cartridge pleat the skirt at elizabethstewertclark.com. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
A good simple dress would be a gathered bodice with coat or bishop sleeves and a cartridge pleated skirt. Simplicity had a very good pattern by Martha McCain that was an easy way to get started if you can find it. I don't remember the # but the main dress on the front is a yellow dress and the lady has a straw hat on and a basket. Past Pattern also has a gathered/darted bodice pattern and you can get directions on how to cartridge pleat the skirt at elizabethstewertclark.com. Assuming this is going to be made out of cotton you should look for a print were the pattern is somewhat uniform. They had a lot of rollerprinted patterns so if you can see the pattern repeating uniformly as if a roller with a single pattern was rolled the length of the fabric that is a good sign. You should also plan on making white collars and cuffs for the dress to be basted on. This was both commonly seen and will save the parts of your dress that get the most dirt and wear from showing it as quickly. Laura Hoover If we continue to forget our past we will continue to repeat it over and over and over... Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 01:16:58 + From: purpl...@optonline.net To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought As I am brand new to this time period, do I just google Civil War dress, or 1860, or what? Katheryne - Original Message - From: Carolann Schmitt Karen's suggest on getting an appropriate one-piece dress and accessorizingit for your needs is still very applicable and very good advice. Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 4-7, 2010 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Hotmail® has ever-growing storage! Don’t worry about storage limits. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Storage_062009 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats...
In a message dated 7/5/2009 11:03:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cha...@hotmail.com writes: Assuming this is going to be made out of cotton you should look for a print were the pattern is somewhat uniform. They had a lot of rollerprinted patterns so if you can see the pattern repeating uniformly as if a roller with a single pattern was rolled the length of the fabric that is a good sign. It is fairly easy to find printed cottons taken from mid-19th century designs--search at a quilt shop. (If only EARLY 19th century designs were as easy to find!) Ann Wass **Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
I am thinking of branching out into early US Civil War, and I was told that 'the easist thing to make is the Garibaldi shirt'. However there were no examples around for anyone to show me. And no reference book/website for them to point me to. Can you please share a pic / web site / pattern with me so I can start creating a prototype Civil War outfit. I am aiming for a country widowed woman, spinner, middle class, if that helps. Katheryne - Original Message - SNIPPAGE Head-coverings of roughly pillbox shape go back at least to the mid-1860s, and are associated with Garibaldi, the Liberator of Italy - he wore them, and the so-called Garibaldi blouse, and many women began wearing versions of them. Carolyn Kayta Barrows ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Google on Garibaldi, then on garibaldi shirt. There are commercial patterns. On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 9:37 AM, purpl...@optonline.net wrote: I am thinking of branching out into early US Civil War, and I was told that 'the easist thing to make is the Garibaldi shirt'. However there were no examples around for anyone to show me. And no reference book/website for them to point me to. Can you please share a pic / web site / pattern with me so I can start creating a prototype Civil War outfit. I am aiming for a country widowed woman, spinner, middle class, if that helps. Katheryne - Original Message - SNIPPAGE Head-coverings of roughly pillbox shape go back at least to the mid-1860s, and are associated with Garibaldi, the Liberator of Italy - he wore them, and the so-called Garibaldi blouse, and many women began wearing versions of them. Carolyn Kayta Barrows ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- “The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.” -William Gibson -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Sometimes what someone tells us is not the best information. :-) The 'classic' women's Garibaldi shirt c.1860-1865 was made from lightweight red wool flannel embroidered in black in scroll patterns. It is cut very full and gathered into a waistband (worn over the waistband of the skirt), with very full sleeves gathered into a cuff, and a small standing collar. Variations of the style included other fabrics - white wool flannel, fine white cotton - but all with the same cut and scroll trim. Garibaldi shirts were high fashion, worn by younger women or VERY fashionable older women, for informal occasions: walks, picnics, boating, at recreational activities. The style is likely one of the LAST that would have been worn by a country widowed woman, spinner, middle class. Although it is simpler in cut and can be easier to fit than other 1860s styles, anyone with a modicum of sewing skills and intellect (can thread a needle and use a pencil) can learn to produce an 1860s garment that would be much more appropriate for this impression. There are dozens of general costume histories that discuss Garibaldi shirts and literally thousands of original images on websites across the country. An Internet search on the term will lead you to many examples. Just be cautious and check the source of the Internet postings. Look for primary sources (Google books) and images identified by reliable institutions and sources. Although I was one once, tread cautiously with the information posted on various reenacting sites. Some of it is very good; unfortunately much of it is best described as myth and misinformation. Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 4-7, 2010 -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of purpl...@optonline.net Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 12:38 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought I am thinking of branching out into early US Civil War, and I was told that 'the easist thing to make is the Garibaldi shirt'. However there were no examples around for anyone to show me. And no reference book/website for them to point me to. Can you please share a pic / web site / pattern with me so I can start creating a prototype Civil War outfit. I am aiming for a country widowed woman, spinner, middle class, if that helps. Katheryne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
This is not directly an answer to your question, but it is the sort of thing I would appreciate hearing about before I made something - take it or leave it as you choose. I am not a Civil War reenactor, so I do not know how to evaluate this source, but I have a special edition of The Citizen's Companion - the Voice of Civilian Reenacting August 2006, article Creating the Proper Impression by Karen Crocker, who says that the Garibaldi style waists were the latest in youthful sportswear in the mid-19th century. A survey of period photographs shows that, with few exceptions, they were mostly worn by young ladies... Also, they were considered undergarments, just as men's shirts were were not worn alone. A Garibaldi waist was worn as an ensemble piece with either a Zouave or bolero jacket , or a Swiss bodice. She suggests that it is more appropriate to get one correct dress and change it to your needs. For example, an apron can be worn for camp use and a nice collar substituted when a trip to market (sutler's row) is necessary. Patty From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of purpl...@optonline.net [purpl...@optonline.net] Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 12:37 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought I am thinking of branching out into early US Civil War, and I was told that 'the easist thing to make is the Garibaldi shirt'. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
The article in the August 2006 edition of The Citizen's Companion is a reprint of an article Karen Crocker originally researched over a dozen years ago. Karen will readily agree continuing research indicates there are portions of that article that are not quite correct. Karen's comments regarding Garibaldis as a garment worn by young ladies is still correct. There is documentation (photographs, primary written sources) of a few mature women wearing the ensemble, however these are VERY fashionable women following the latest style. Continuing research indicates this comment: Also, they were considered undergarments, just as men's shirts were were not worn alone. A Garibaldi waist was worn as an ensemble piece with either a Zouave or bolero jacket , or a Swiss bodice is not correct. Original images of true Garibaldi shirts - colored wool, black braid trim - show them being worn without a jacket. I have several in my files and have examined dozens more. However, a fine white body or waist, similar in cut to a Garibaldi shirt but made from fine white cotton, was frequently worn with a jacket of some style. These white bodies were also worn without a jacket, frequently with a shaped belt, e.g. a Medici waist or Swiss belt (not Swiss bodice as listed in the article). Neither Garibaldi shirts nor white bodies were considered undergarments. Karen's suggest on getting an appropriate one-piece dress and accessorizing it for your needs is still very applicable and very good advice. Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 4-7, 2010 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
As I am brand new to this time period, do I just google Civil War dress, or 1860, or what? Katheryne - Original Message - From: Carolann Schmitt Karen's suggest on getting an appropriate one-piece dress and accessorizingit for your needs is still very applicable and very good advice. Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 4-7, 2010 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Also, they were considered undergarments, just as men's shirts were were not worn alone. A Garibaldi waist was worn as an ensemble piece with either a Zouave or bolero jacket , or a Swiss bodice. I hadn't heard that, nor guessed it from the fashion plates I have seen with no jacket. -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- “The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.” -William Gibson -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
