Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but...
well, a wool lining won't exactly keep you DRYER in the rain, but you won't freeze when it does soak through! Wool's insulating qualities are not affected by wetness, and it does take longer to soak through wool than many other fabrics, so two layers would extend the time you have until the rain gets all the way through to you. chimene from Oregon in the Pacific NorthWET, as we call it! 8-) On Nov 11, 2010, at 6:52 PM, Laurie Taylor wrote: Thanks for the thought Glenda. I'm not likely to see snow anytimeever...but rain is a possibility and staying dry is really nice! I may have to try that on another one. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but...
On Nov 11, 2010, at 6:42 AM, Laurie Taylor wrote: I'm not sure how much overlap there is between this list and an SCA garb list, so I hoped for more ideas between the two. I am cutting a cloak, the half-circle style as shown in Hill Bucknell, The Evolution of Fashion 1066-1930, c.1100 male/female. I opted for this one because it fit well on my fabric without piecing. The fabric is a very dark charcoal, almost black, woolen-like, though probably acrylic. It’s what I had on hand so, even if the color isn’t period, it’s going to happen. snip Also, quite a few of the cloaks of c.1066-1260 or thereabouts are greater than ½ circle and harder to fit on fabric without piecing. I did the math to enlarge one particular pattern, and it would need a piece of fabric around 105” x 120” approximately. How would you piece that, or how might it have been pieced in period, assuming that they didn’t just weave a fabric to a dimension suitable for that garment? Looking at surviving examples of medieval half-circular cloaks, where the cut is discernable from the available publications, pretty much all of them are pieced to some degree. (This isn't surprising when you compare the style to the typical fabric widths in use in the medieval period.) Most often, the basic shape is formed by sewing together strips parallel with the straight edge of the half-circle, but very often the area farthest from that straight edge is further pieced in order to use up the bits cut off for the curved edges of the strip next to it. Heather ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but...
Thank you Heather. Logically, that's about what I expected, but I just have no references here to confirm that. I've cut one cloak and it's lining but will have to work on it after an SCA event this weekend. Anxious to get it finished! Laurie -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Heather Rose Jones Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 8:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but... On Nov 11, 2010, at 6:42 AM, Laurie Taylor wrote: I'm not sure how much overlap there is between this list and an SCA garb list, so I hoped for more ideas between the two. I am cutting a cloak, the half-circle style as shown in Hill Bucknell, The Evolution of Fashion 1066-1930, c.1100 male/female. I opted for this one because it fit well on my fabric without piecing. The fabric is a very dark charcoal, almost black, woolen-like, though probably acrylic. Its what I had on hand so, even if the color isnt period, its going to happen. snip Also, quite a few of the cloaks of c.1066-1260 or thereabouts are greater than ½ circle and harder to fit on fabric without piecing. I did the math to enlarge one particular pattern, and it would need a piece of fabric around 105 x 120 approximately. How would you piece that, or how might it have been pieced in period, assuming that they didnt just weave a fabric to a dimension suitable for that garment? Looking at surviving examples of medieval half-circular cloaks, where the cut is discernable from the available publications, pretty much all of them are pieced to some degree. (This isn't surprising when you compare the style to the typical fabric widths in use in the medieval period.) Most often, the basic shape is formed by sewing together strips parallel with the straight edge of the half-circle, but very often the area farthest from that straight edge is further pieced in order to use up the bits cut off for the curved edges of the strip next to it. Heather ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but...
Had you considered that piecing is in fact period? There are many, many examples of piecing throughout the centuries. I'd suggest the best approach might be to see how wide the typical fabric _of_the_day_ (or area!) might be, and piece even if you don't need to! :) As far as lining. Kayta once told me that you absolutely do not want a slippery lining over your shoulders-- unless you want to fight holding the cape in place. She used cotton lining in the shoulder area, and, should satin be called for, satin in the rest. However, I am not so familiar with the 1100s. My impression, however, is that woolens were often NOT hemmed or lined, because they were quite thick and rather fulled. A simple line of stitching around the (non) hem would keep them tidy. Same with slashings dags. The reason that later period clothing was often brushed and spot- cleaned was that washing an entire garment was't the usual treatment. I can see the reasoning: so often washing was boiling and beating, which would full (and shrink) the cloth. I wonder if the same were true in the 12th century. == Marjorie Wilser (who has bought the very last of a t-shirt knit and even pieced the shirt! Yep. loved it that much) =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Nov 11, 2010, at 6:42 AM, Laurie Taylor wrote: I'm not sure how much overlap there is between this list and an SCA garb list, so I hoped for more ideas between the two. I am cutting a cloak, the half-circle style as shown in Hill Bucknell, The Evolution of Fashion 1066-1930, c.1100 male/female. I opted for this one because it fit well on my fabric without piecing. The fabric is a very dark charcoal, almost black, woolen-like, though probably acrylic. It’s what I had on hand so, even if the color isn’t period, it’s going to happen. I’m stuck on lining. I’m guessing that it should be a linen, though I was eye-balling a super-fine 130 wool from my stash. The color isn’t good though, I suppose – being a blue-gray, almost faded teal, but it sure feels nice. What would be a good color, keeping maybe sort of period? I’m not wanting to go buying more fabric – I own too darn much! But I’m not sure that I’ve got anything in a good color/fiber combination. Also, quite a few of the cloaks of c.1066-1260 or thereabouts are greater than ½ circle and harder to fit on fabric without piecing. I did the math to enlarge one particular pattern, and it would need a piece of fabric around 105” x 120” approximately. How would you piece that, or how might it have been pieced in period, assuming that they didn’t just weave a fabric to a dimension suitable for that garment? Wide open to thoughts and ideas! Laurie T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but...
Thank you Marjorie. You made some good points about the slippery issue with linings. Actually the first lining that I have cut is not at all slippery, simply because I was trying to find something linen or linen-like in a decent color. What I found is definitely not slippery, as linen would not be either. As for the edge finishes, the gray cloak fabric could do quite well without a seamed edge, though the lining will have to be turned inwards and stitched around, as it would fray. I've been looking at some of the information on period stitches and edge-finishes, online of course, and think I know how this one will get finished. I did figure that piecing would be period, but just wasn't entirely sure where to piece on this first cloak. I ended up settling for a 1/2 circle since it would fit on my fabric without piecing. Next one I will make a point to piece, at least enough to cut a 5/8 or 3/4 circle. I am thoroughly modern when it comes to garment maintenance. My labor is worth something, at least to me, so my dry-cleaners help me to preserve the fruits of my labor - no beating clothes on a rock by a stream for this city girl. Laurie T. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Marjorie Wilser Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 9:00 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but... Had you considered that piecing is in fact period? There are many, many examples of piecing throughout the centuries. I'd suggest the best approach might be to see how wide the typical fabric _of_the_day_ (or area!) might be, and piece even if you don't need to! :) As far as lining. Kayta once told me that you absolutely do not want a slippery lining over your shoulders-- unless you want to fight holding the cape in place. She used cotton lining in the shoulder area, and, should satin be called for, satin in the rest. However, I am not so familiar with the 1100s. My impression, however, is that woolens were often NOT hemmed or lined, because they were quite thick and rather fulled. A simple line of stitching around the (non) hem would keep them tidy. Same with slashings dags. The reason that later period clothing was often brushed and spot- cleaned was that washing an entire garment was't the usual treatment. I can see the reasoning: so often washing was boiling and beating, which would full (and shrink) the cloth. I wonder if the same were true in the 12th century. == Marjorie Wilser (who has bought the very last of a t-shirt knit and even pieced the shirt! Yep. loved it that much) om/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but...
Hi Laurie, I've used a woollen lining for a cloak I take with me to the winter (sometimes snow) camps. It's been brilliant. I find that when water gets through the outer wool layer on a cloak, it wicks through a linen lining quite quickly, but the woollen lining gives a bit more protection. Have fun! Glenda. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Laurie Taylor Sent: Friday, 12 November 2010 1:43 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but... I'm not sure how much overlap there is between this list and an SCA garb list, so I hoped for more ideas between the two. I am cutting a cloak, the half-circle style as shown in Hill Bucknell, The Evolution of Fashion 1066-1930, c.1100 male/female. I opted for this one because it fit well on my fabric without piecing. The fabric is a very dark charcoal, almost black, woolen-like, though probably acrylic. Its what I had on hand so, even if the color isnt period, its going to happen. Im stuck on lining. Im guessing that it should be a linen, though I was eye-balling a super-fine 130 wool from my stash. The color isnt good though, I suppose being a blue-gray, almost faded teal, but it sure feels nice. What would be a good color, keeping maybe sort of period? Im not wanting to go buying more fabric I own too darn much! But Im not sure that Ive got anything in a good color/fiber combination. Also, quite a few of the cloaks of c.1066-1260 or thereabouts are greater than ½ circle and harder to fit on fabric without piecing. I did the math to enlarge one particular pattern, and it would need a piece of fabric around 105 x 120 approximately. How would you piece that, or how might it have been pieced in period, assuming that they didnt just weave a fabric to a dimension suitable for that garment? Wide open to thoughts and ideas! Laurie T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but...
Thanks for the thought Glenda. I'm not likely to see snow anytimeever...but rain is a possibility and staying dry is really nice! I may have to try that on another one. Laurie -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Glenda Robinson Sent: Thursday, November 11, 2010 7:44 PM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but... Hi Laurie, I've used a woollen lining for a cloak I take with me to the winter (sometimes snow) camps. It's been brilliant. I find that when water gets through the outer wool layer on a cloak, it wicks through a linen lining quite quickly, but the woollen lining gives a bit more protection. Have fun! Glenda. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Laurie Taylor Sent: Friday, 12 November 2010 1:43 AM To: 'Historical Costume' Subject: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell Cloaks - sorry for cross-post, but... I'm not sure how much overlap there is between this list and an SCA garb list, so I hoped for more ideas between the two. I am cutting a cloak, the half-circle style as shown in Hill Bucknell, The Evolution of Fashion 1066-1930, c.1100 male/female. I opted for this one because it fit well on my fabric without piecing. The fabric is a very dark charcoal, almost black, woolen-like, though probably acrylic. Its what I had on hand so, even if the color isnt period, its going to happen. Im stuck on lining. Im guessing that it should be a linen, though I was eye-balling a super-fine 130 wool from my stash. The color isnt good though, I suppose being a blue-gray, almost faded teal, but it sure feels nice. What would be a good color, keeping maybe sort of period? Im not wanting to go buying more fabric I own too darn much! But Im not sure that Ive got anything in a good color/fiber combination. Also, quite a few of the cloaks of c.1066-1260 or thereabouts are greater than ½ circle and harder to fit on fabric without piecing. I did the math to enlarge one particular pattern, and it would need a piece of fabric around 105 x 120 approximately. How would you piece that, or how might it have been pieced in period, assuming that they didnt just weave a fabric to a dimension suitable for that garment? Wide open to thoughts and ideas! Laurie T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
