Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
Penny Ladnier wrote: A first for me, I am making a ruff. And for something completely different, check out this Elizabethan style set of ruff and cuffs: http://www.marthastewart.com/how-to/fairy-godmother-no-sew-halloween-costume?lnc=c10c758a65cee010VgnVCM103d370a0aRCRD Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
Heh ... Martha Stewart ruffs ... out of coffee filters! :) On Tue, Jun 16, 2009 at 1:56 PM, Dawn d...@reddawn.net wrote: Penny Ladnier wrote: A first for me, I am making a ruff. And for something completely different, check out this Elizabethan style set of ruff and cuffs: http://www.marthastewart.com/how-to/fairy-godmother-no-sew-halloween-costume?lnc=c10c758a65cee010VgnVCM103d370a0aRCRD Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
Hi Penny, That's a interesting ruff. The setts are round on the top but creased on the bottom. If you want to starch it, I have instructions online at http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/ruff.html You would probably use the curling iron for the rounded top and, as I think someone else suggested, iron creases into the bottom. Putting it together, if you want to starch it, is the easiest thing in the world. Just gather the ruffle very tightly into the top of a neckband. It fans out when you starch it to the setts at the outer circumference. I would not recommend pleating of any kind if you intend to starch it--pleats get in the way and make life difficult. However, if what you want is a theatrical ruff that can be laundered and come out still set, use the suggestions people have sent for non- starched options (using horsehair braid inside folded fabric for the ruffle, putting fishing line in the edge), and cartridge pleat. The problem you'll have is that you want the ruff to be so tall that the height of it won't fit on the neckband. Cartridge pleats, when done on a straight strip of fabric, are the same height on the inside edge as the outside edge. So if you want to do cartridge pleats, you'll need to cut the ruffle on a curve so that it can fan out from the neck to the outer edge. I've done the math to figure this out for a neckline ruffle, and I ended up solving a quadratic equation for two variables. Maybe someone else has an easier way. As Sharon noted, starching really isn't that hard, and in this case it might be much the easier way. The only thing is that due to the size of the ruff you want to make, you'll need quite a lot of fabric gathered into the neckband. I recommend a really lightweight fabric. Also, instead of doing machine gathering, do teeny tiny itty bitty cartridge pleats (gauge it with two identical lines of hand- basting--like smocking) by hand. The stitches will probably end up being 3/16-3/8 long, but you'll have to experiment to get the right size. This is the method used in extant ruffs as described by Janet Arnold, and in my experience you can get MUCH more fabric in than when you do a machine-baste and pull the bobbin threads. Good luck, Melanie Schuessler On Jun 13, 2009, at 8:02 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote: A first for me, I am making a ruff. I read the ruff advice area on Drea's website, but am confused if it is better to cartridge pleat or just gather pleats in groups. Is there a good site with illustrations about how to make the ruff? My son and I are making an anime costume http://www.geocities.com/ eyesofaclown/images/Perriot.JPG . Does anyone have advice on how to attach the ruffles to the band. I followed the ruff calculator on Drea's site and put in the measurements as follows: ruff depth: 5 inches width of each sett: 2 inches ruff height: 4 inches Will the ruff height at the band be 4 inches? If not, how high will it be at the neckband? Will it fan to 4 inches at the outer edge? I am also looking for advice on starching a ruff. Many thanks in advance. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
In a message dated 6/15/2009 9:09:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, mela...@faucet.net writes: The setts are round on the top but creased on the bottom. *** I saw that too. But I think that may just be the drawing style, because the cuffs don't seem to do it. And since this is a costume of an anime version of a Comedia del arte character, I don't know how period one needs to go. A more space age feel might be more appropriate with a stiff synthetic or non-fabric choice (like pelon) and the ol' cartridge pleated on a wide neckband construction. Now having said that, a more traditional ruff, set in an nontraditional way would also be very interesting, Especially if the rest of the costume has some traditional elements to it. **Download the AOL Classifieds Toolbar for local deals at your fingertips. (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolclassifieds/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown0004) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
A first for me, I am making a ruff. I read the ruff advice area on Drea's website, but am confused if it is better to cartridge pleat or just gather pleats in groups. Is there a good site with illustrations about how to make the ruff? My son and I are making an anime costume http://www.geocities.com/eyesofaclown/images/Perriot.JPG . Does anyone have advice on how to attach the ruffles to the band. I followed the ruff calculator on Drea's site and put in the measurements as follows: ruff depth: 5 inches width of each sett: 2 inches ruff height: 4 inches Will the ruff height at the band be 4 inches? If not, how high will it be at the neckband? Will it fan to 4 inches at the outer edge? I am also looking for advice on starching a ruff. Many thanks in advance. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
I have a process that I pushed online a while ago on how to make a quick and dirty ruff. http://www.glove.org/costume/ruff/index.html ♫ Chiara Francesca « Ehi Prof.! Che cosa facciamo stasera?» « Quello che facciamo tutte le sere, Mignolo: tentare di conquistare il mondo! » (hint: italian) -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 5:03 PM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice A first for me, I am making a ruff. I read the ruff advice area on Drea's website, but am confused if it is better to cartridge pleat or just gather pleats in groups. Is there a good site with illustrations about how to make the ruff? My son and I are making an anime costume http://www.geocities.com/eyesofaclown/images/Perriot.JPG . Does anyone have advice on how to attach the ruffles to the band. I followed the ruff calculator on Drea's site and put in the measurements as follows: ruff depth: 5 inches width of each sett: 2 inches ruff height: 4 inches Will the ruff height at the band be 4 inches? If not, how high will it be at the neckband? Will it fan to 4 inches at the outer edge? I am also looking for advice on starching a ruff. Many thanks in advance. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
My son and I are making an anime costume http://www.geocities.com/eyesofaclown/images/Perriot.JPG . Does anyone have advice on how to attach the ruffles to the band. The one in your image looks similar to cartridge pleating. To stiffen it, start with something already a little stiff and double it over. Two layers are stiffer than one is, and the folded outer edge takes care of any hem issues. For a costume ruff you might even use one thickness of stiff non-woven interfacing. I like to use several yards of the selvedge of something for my ruffs - not exactly correct, but neater at the outside edge than any hem I can do. -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- “The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.” -William Gibson -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
Franchesca, So would the pleats that attaches to the band, be 1-2 deep? Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history - Original Message - From: Chiara Francesca chiara.france...@gmail.com To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 8:53 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice I have a process that I pushed online a while ago on how to make a quick and dirty ruff. http://www.glove.org/costume/ruff/index.html ♫ Chiara Francesca « Ehi Prof.! Che cosa facciamo stasera?» « Quello che facciamo tutte le sere, Mignolo: tentare di conquistare il mondo! » (hint: italian) -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Penny Ladnier Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 5:03 PM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice A first for me, I am making a ruff. I read the ruff advice area on Drea's website, but am confused if it is better to cartridge pleat or just gather pleats in groups. Is there a good site with illustrations about how to make the ruff? My son and I are making an anime costume http://www.geocities.com/eyesofaclown/images/Perriot.JPG . Does anyone have advice on how to attach the ruffles to the band. I followed the ruff calculator on Drea's site and put in the measurements as follows: ruff depth: 5 inches width of each sett: 2 inches ruff height: 4 inches Will the ruff height at the band be 4 inches? If not, how high will it be at the neckband? Will it fan to 4 inches at the outer edge? I am also looking for advice on starching a ruff. Many thanks in advance. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice
Iy msy be on a band or attached directly to the neckline of a high necked shirt/tunic thingy. The fabric does need to be very stiff to stand out like that. Ironing before stitching can create those knife-sharp creases. Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 18:01:44 -0700 From: kay...@gmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Need Ruff Making Advice My son and I are making an anime costume http://www.geocities.com/eyesofaclown/images/Perriot.JPG . Does anyone have advice on how to attach the ruffles to the band. The one in your image looks similar to cartridge pleating. To stiffen it, start with something already a little stiff and double it over. Two layers are stiffer than one is, and the folded outer edge takes care of any hem issues. For a costume ruff you might even use one thickness of stiff non-woven interfacing. I like to use several yards of the selvedge of something for my ruffs - not exactly correct, but neater at the outside edge than any hem I can do. -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- “The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.” -William Gibson -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Hotmail® has ever-growing storage! Don’t worry about storage limits. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_Storage_062009 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
