Re: [h-cost] Mystery for experienced Sempsters
For stage costumes I always line/interface with heavy muslin. It holds the shape and size well and protects the outer fabric (which is usually more delicate) from stress. What did you use for lining and interfacing? And here's what is probably a really stupid question, but you seem to have done everything right; and as Sherlock Holmes says, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the solution! so: what size needle did you use? Do you think the stretching might be occurring near the stitching lines, where the needle holes are? Yes, it really does sound like a silly idea. The only other factors I can think of, though, are faeries and witches... --RA Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- From: Julie jtknit...@gmail.com Sent: Oct 10, 2012 12:21 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Mystery for experienced Sempsters I guess all you can do now is line it. (With fabrics that don't hold their shape, interfacing corrects that but now that you've put the dress together, that would be a bear. **It *is* lined. Maybe if I'd interlined it? Some things to think about for your debugging: Did you put in all the facings, linings interfacings required? **yes Did you pre-shrink your cottons with hot water and then in the dryer on zorch? **always Does the stretch occur in crossgrain direction? **no. Bodice is cut straight grain and grows around the body. Is your model wearing period unmentionables **no. She's young enough that the boned bodice is enough...no bra. Also, IMHO, the Joann's quilting fabrics on the bargain wall are not particularly high quality. **These were the good quilting fabrics. That's why I'm so mystified ticked. I didn't cheap out (but only because we didn't find anything we liked on sale.) --cin Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mystery for experienced Sempsters
I may have missed this detail: what time period is it for? I just realized you said boned bodice, and looks like you're saying no stays or corset? The fabric just might not be up to a snug fit. One purpose of a corset or stays is to do the work of compressing -- even if there is not much of that going on -- so the fabric of the gown can just sit there un-stressed and looking pretty. -Carol I guess all you can do now is line it. (With fabrics that don't hold their shape, interfacing corrects that but now that you've put the dress together, that would be a bear. **It *is* lined. Maybe if I'd interlined it? Some things to think about for your debugging: Did you put in all the facings, linings interfacings required? **yes Did you pre-shrink your cottons with hot water and then in the dryer on zorch? **always Does the stretch occur in crossgrain direction? **no. Bodice is cut straight grain and grows around the body. Is your model wearing period unmentionables **no. She's young enough that the boned bodice is enough...no bra. Also, IMHO, the Joann's quilting fabrics on the bargain wall are not particularly high quality. **These were the good quilting fabrics. That's why I'm so mystified ticked. I didn't cheap out (but only because we didn't find anything we liked on sale.) --cin ___ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mystery for experienced Sempsters
On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 9:21 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote: I guess all you can do now is line it. (With fabrics that don't hold their shape, interfacing corrects that but now that you've put the dress together, that would be a bear. **It *is* lined. Maybe if I'd interlined it? Interlining is for warmth is unusual in anything but coats jackets. Interfacing is for strength, shaping structural support. Does the stretch occur in crossgrain direction? **no. Bodice is cut straight grain and grows around the body. Actually from your description (what I heard you say is that the straight grain runs vertical), the garment *is* growing on the cross. This is normal to a small degree. On grain the weave is tight because of the weaving direction; the warp is tight on the loom. If fabrics are going to grow as you describe, it's usually on cross grain. Quilt fabrics are not supposed to do this. That's why we pony up the extra cost... to get the tighter weaves that dont grow. (Yes, I'm a mad quilter, too.) Is your model wearing period unmentionables **no. She's young enough that the boned bodice is enough...no bra. In this we will disagree. I'm probably skinny enough to pull this off, too, but I'd still wear the proper unmentionables for shape, structure fashion... and maybe because I'm a bit of a costume snob. For your debugging purposes, however, I'd suggest the corsetry for repeatability. Many women, young old, change size monthly, seasonally or at random. The corset, tightened to a known amount at B,W H will give you a better target to fit to next time 'round. Also, IMHO, the Joann's quilting fabrics on the bargain wall are not particularly high quality. **These were the good quilting fabrics. That's why I'm so mystified ticked. I didn't cheap out (but only because we didn't find anything we liked on sale.) Julie If you're sure the fabric is to blame not the pre-treatment or assembly process, then take it back complain to the vendor. Tell us who the fabric manufacturer is so we can all direct our ire appropriately. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mystery for experienced Sempsters
--- On Wed, 10/10/12, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote: Which pattern did you use? **New Look 6773, a 50'sish sun dress I'm thinking that it is the pattern that is the problem, rather than the fabric. I took a look at it online and the deep, curved v neck, along with the princess-like side seams on the front bodice panel, could result in a lot of stretch. A quick and easy fix would be to pipe the neck line, the bodice seams and the waist. Store bought piping in a solid color should work well. Did the instructions call for stay stitching the neckline? Nadine Pelikan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
