Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
On my monitor, the codpiece looks like it has a stripe of black velvet about an inch or two wide running down the front of it with a shiny black button (?) right in the middle---constructed like the sides are red and the center front is black. What would the black button be? Or am I seeing things? Kate - Original Message - From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 11:47 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier At 11:49 AM 7/6/2005, you wrote: Belt clasp for the sword belt. -Original Message- (snip) I also wonder what the shiny thing above the codpiece is as well. That's an interesting style for a belt clasp. Thanks. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
To me, the sleeves look like they are a velvet or fine wool that has been slashed, then trim applied as horizontal bands separating the slashed sections. To get them to stand out, you cut the 'fashion fabric' slightly longer than the lining and then tack the horizontal bands to the lining and let the extra fabric naturally created the fullness. Unless you are planning to make linen under drawers (which were worn but not universally) then the long tails of the shirt function as underwear. The bottom of the shirt should fall well below the hips and could fall as low as just above the knee. There's a doublet under the jerkin made of the red fabric, so that's two 'outer' layers for the torso. The jerkin has the long, vertical slashes that were frequently found in Italian fashions. Hope you get really good at the slashes with horizontal bands because from what I can see, the doublet is made in the same way as the sleeves and trunkhose so you will be doing alot of it! Oh, and don't forget the stuffed codpiece... Karen Seamstrix On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 23:29:31 -0400 (EDT) Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have someone that has requested me to interpret this painting into real costume: http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg Portrait of a Soldier 1555-59 Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm Museo del Prado, Madrid I lack practical experience with men's wear in general, let alone this period. This is a skin-out project, so I need to know just what I am committing to here. I see the following layers: *underwear *shirt *netherstocks *jerkin *possibly waistcoat, but could be attached sleeves *Venetians/Breeches Sound about right? Anyone have any clues where to start finding reference materials for construction? Thanks so much, this will be a major project once I get underway - just trying to design the embossing on that velvet will be a serious challenge. Kathy ItÂ’s never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot An inordinate passion for pleasure is the secret of remaining young. -Oscar Wilde __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
I can think of lots of gloves and a few shoes that were leather with gold or polychrome embroidery. Bridgette / Mari Can someone refresh my memory--embroidery on soft leather--examples? Mari Stewart Webmaster College of Veterinary Medicine Cornell University ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
The red material is either red suede leather or velvet. The sleeves could be box pleated but the left forearm and the right cuff make me lean towards slashes and that the bands are non - applied bands but of the same sleeve material with embroidery to stop the slashes. Basically, one solid sleeve with alternating slashes and bands. So the suede route might be easier and you could possibly embossed instead of embroider. Note that the sleeve cuffs have small cloth covers buttons. Note that the codpiece uses the embroidered band design only, no slashes. The black jerkin looks to be velvet. The garment seems to be a bit odd on the right shoulder region so I not sure about the cut there. I am not sure what he has in his hand but it isn't gloves. Though I don't think there is underwear underneath this, you might want to make him a set of linen boxers for his own modern mind comfort. (unless he's use to not wearing any underwear.) From my understanding the pants and codpiece are what help the special package from bouncing around to much. Long shirt.. Actually, Margo Anderson has a good pattern for Men that may cut your trouble in half http://www.margospatterns.com/mainframe.htm Just scroll down to the men's pattern, go to the site for that pattern. Good luck on your challenge. De -Original Message- I have someone that has requested me to interpret this painting into real costume: http://www.wga.hu/art/m/moroni/port_sol.jpg Portrait of a Soldier 1555-59 Oil on canvas, 119 x 91 cm Museo del Prado, Madrid (snip) Kathy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Portrait of a Soldier
Oh that is so good to know! I have seen the results of leather loinclothes that haven't been cleaned and their not a pretty sight. EEww De -Original Message- Nope. White linen drawers would have been the norm. (Can you imagine the condition of a pair of venetians made of non-washable fabric after a few wearings without underpants? Ugh!!) -- Adele de Maisieres ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
