The idea of working of the hypothetical nodal point in order to create
component images was because I wasn't sure I could achieve the final image
I want just by changing the camera's yaw, primarily out of a concern for
excessive parallax issues. I'm trying to avoid obvious indicators of photo
Some notes I wrote on this eleven!! years ago:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/brunopostle/5830006193/
Shooting from the same distance is useful, as is shooting perpendicular to
the surface/wall. Though shooting from an oblique angle where necessary is
ok, probably this would be better if this is
On Thursday, September 8, 2022 at 11:41:00 PM UTC-4 alexande...@gmail.com
wrote:
> . Relative depth may be the main issue I run into here because there are
> parts of a house as well as trees visible behind the wall at various
> distances.
In that case, your idea of working from a
Thanks, Donald. Yes, this is very much what I'm trying to do and I
appreciate you making the folder available to me. I'll definitely take a
look.
On Thursday, September 8, 2022 at 7:48:49 PM UTC-7 Donald Johnston wrote:
> Here is an image of something I did a few years ago that sounds similar
Thanks for the response. Relative depth may be the main issue I run into
here because there are parts of a house as well as trees visible behind the
wall at various distances. Do you have a sense for how much relative depth
the approach you outlined can handle?
Lol the hypothetical component
Here is an image of something I did a few years ago that sounds similar to what
you may be trying to do.
If’s made up of 12 images. I moved along across the street from these buildings
trying to be at 90 degrees to each “section” of the buildings; hoping to reduce
any parallax problems later
A lot depends on how much relative depth there is to the surface. If there
is significant relative depth, then there will be parallax problems that
hugin has no good way of managing. Otherwise, it should not be terribly
difficult.
I'm failing to see the point of computing the hypothetical
Hey all,
This is a question partially about Hugin but also about how to shoot a
specific type of site/location in order to produce a quality panorama. If
any of you know of resources that provide solutions to this problem, then
please send them along.
In brief, I'm trying to photograph an
