I built my outer panels with my Center spars in a roll over jig, using the
AS504x airfoil templates and a lazer level makes it easy and accurate and doing
the foam and glasswork is easier also because the work can be turned over to
the best position to do it in. I also hot wire cut my foam
Cool
rahu...@peoplepc.com wrote: Netters - this is going to be rather long and will
contain content regarding the KR2 as LSA compliant - so be warned and delete
now if you desire.
I feverently hope that we don't start an endless discussion but rather my
objective is to add some datapoints that
just thought I'd pass this along, the KR engine mount for HAPI engines matches
the 4 cylinder Continental engine mount pattern. In November Buddy Midkiff /
c.midk...@verizon.net offered up his project for sale and had one of these
engine mounts for sale for $175. Just my opinion but it would
Look on Barnstormers, there's tons of stuff available also consider an 0 235
Lycoming (I'm partial to these engines) stronger engine around the same weight
depends on what you're willing to settle for I suppose
Larry Flesner wrote: At 12:21 PM 12/26/2006, you
wrote:
>Look on Barnstormers, there's tons of stuff available also consider
>an 0 235 Lycoming (I'm partial to these engines) stronger engine
>around the same weight
Brian Kraut turned me on to this website, look on the Bowers flybaby website
you'll probably find everything you need to know about 4 cylinder Continentals
I would just use it, if not offer it for sale to someone that would
Marc Lee Winnig wrote: > If I remember correctly the
4000 series Slick mags are throw away Mags Sounds like I should just toss it
now! What do you suggest? (I would like to go with a dual
I hate to be a party pooper here but you'll know if it's the old Rand Three
blade prop because it'll have a plastic hub and the hubs do crack.
Marc Lee Winnig wrote: Is it wood or composite? (I have
a 3-blade ground-adjustable wood prop, apparently by Rand).Marc Lee
It's my understanding that Slick produced the throw away series Mags to produce
a magneto that you could purchase for what it would cost you to overhaul one
for and they're of the same quality as the later infield repairable ones. They
weren't meant to be taken apart
I don't know if my thinking is flawed here but out of the dark recesses of my
brain I seem to remember a 1 bladed prop from WW2 that the Germans were playing
with, with a counterweight for balance. It seems to me that you can argue the
points of multiple blades versus 2 blades seems to me to be
use it
mtmcgo...@aol.com wrote: Everything I've read on here about the 4216 is not
good. The KR-2 that I'm
restoring has one, the last owner says it worked fine. Should I trash it and
buy a 4316 or what?
Mike McGowan N4288C
_mtmcgowan@aol.com_ (mailto:mtmcgo...@aol.com)
If I remember my #'s correctly a 2180 has a bore of 92 mm and stroke of 82mm, a
2276 is 94mm bore 82 mm stroke and the Revmaster engine is 90.5mm bore with
82mm stroke and I believe 2015 CC'sBenjamin Copeland
wrote: Does this mean the 2100 engine on Revmaster's site is
Anyone looking for an inexpensive magnetro for a VW engine? There's one on ebay
that you should be able to pick up cheap
Original Message -
From: "Don Chisholm"
To:
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 5:17 AM
Subject: KR> 0 200 Continental cowlings
> Is there an 0 200 Continental cowling available for KR2s
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.madd
If I remember correctly the 4000 series Slick mags are throw away Mags
"Brian G. Douglas" wrote: If it's working, and you can get a
good spark just keep it till about 500
hrs. Then it is due for an overhaul. You might look up any ad's that were
applied to your magneto. Just do
See if you can find the Charles Wells Gear latch system in the archives. What
it is is a spring loaded pin lock system that self latches and aligns with 2
positions for up and down and the pilot operates a lever to pull the pins out
and manually pushes or pulls the gear up or down and the
Is there an 0 200 Continental cowling available for KR2s
What you ran across was a dynosaur, I had one tell me one time that they had a
homebuilt at their airport one time fortunately it crashed and then proceeded
to lecture me as you got lectured, meanwhile he had a ratty old Cessna 172 that
looked like it hadn't been flown in years. He reached his
In a lot of cases it's easier to rewire than figure out someone elses mess
Larry Flesner wrote: At 11:39 PM 12/10/2006, you
wrote:
> I need a wiring diagram for a KR, can anyone help?
> Mike
>___
I will need a few days to sort through
there's a problem with harmonics with ground adjustable props and VW
crankshafts and they break cranks
Solly Melyon wrote: Myron,
Could you elaborate on why not on a VW engine?
Thanks,
Solly
"Myron (Dan) Freeman" wrote:
No! Not on a V W engine. I already checked into
A good friend of mine had a wood prop on his Spezio and flew through a shower
with it without any leading edge protection. He probably only had 80% of his
prop left. He switched to a metal prop and the wood prop made a nice wall
hanging after he decoratively refinished it
Marc Lee Winnig
>From what I understand about ground adjustable props and VW cranks, you
>probably wouldn't make it to 500 HRs
benji mosley wrote: I agree with everyone else,don't do
it.Even though it can be done using Great Plains rear drive,it's not worth the
extra effort or
just a heads up to the group that are putting together production engines for
their machines. Avoid this company like the plague, I got stung on a complete
set of rings for an 0 235 Lycoming engine I put together and contacted
Barnstormers about them where I seen their adds and was informed
That's in the subject title Premium Aircraft Parts, I feel sorry for anyone
that tried buying an engine from them they only got me for a bit
steve winter <ghettoboy_98...@hotmail.com> wrote: Sorry Don---I didn't See the
companies NAME Mentioned any where here !!
Chris
>From: Don
8, 2006 10:30 AM
Subject: RE: KR> Premium Aircraft Parts
> Sorry Don---I didn't See the companies NAME Mentioned any where here !!
> Chris
>
>
> >From: Don Chisholm
> >Reply-To: KRnet
> >To: kr...@mylist.net
> >Subject: KR> Premium Aircraft Parts
> >Da
you know if you go into the archives this is a question that keeps coming up.
and it doesn't matter, you're going to get a banana boat no matter what you do
. As soon as you pinch the tail in to the tail post, your sides are not going
to be flat to your leveled table no matter if you laid your
if you want a definitive answer go on the manufacturers website and if your
answer is not there, there will be a phone # listed. Phone them and ask them.
There is no set answer for every resin as some only have a years shelf life
mplane...@aol.com wrote: Here's a question for the net. I
I think this is a case of what you feel comfortable with as there are pros and
cons to any debate on this subject. You would always be wondering whether you
should have bit the bullet and bought new resin or not, it may work out and it
may not. Maybe the thing to do is experiment with what you
I don't take myself as being any kind of expert on the subject of aerodynamics
but I've been around for a bit asking dumb questions when I've had the
opportunity to pick brains of knowledgeable people and maybe this will stir the
cauldron and get a response from some of the wizards that
The gentleman that inspected my KR1 for it's prepaint inspection ( it's a
Canadian thing) figured when he seen my blunt trailing edges on my wing that
the slip stream wouldn't know the difference. Sounded good to me
Larry Flesner wrote:
> This
>photo of Richard Shirley's
I chopped my trailing so I wouldn't have as big a mass balance weight on my
ailerons. They can be big and ugly
James c Ferris wrote: I believe you can increase the
thickness to about one percent of the
chord without adversily changing the performance. When we were developing
Virgil; You're having a hell of a time convincing people it wasn't you
mitch hargin wrote: Glad you survived Virgil. You will need
the landing strip for the Space Shuttle if you keep up speeds of 90 over the
numbers. Like the others have said get the speed down to 70 or less
My friend Darryl Gilbert ( Gilbert Custom Aircraft) buys aircraft engines on a
fairly regular basis that come from all over North America and they are just
shipped on pallets
Charles Buddy & Cheryl Midkiff wrote: I have a couple
engines complete with accessories for
that also works if you mist black over your high build primer coat and will
show high spots and low spots by what you sand off
bearlk...@aol.com wrote: from "finishing a composite airplane"
"I strongly recommend spraying a light coat of black primer, before you start
filling, Even thou
what I've been using for filler is Milled fibers and is a good alternative to
flox with it's own unique properies. What it is is high density short glass
fibers that when mixed with resin makes a jelly like putty and has high shear
strength. The claim is when it's mixed with a thickening
and composite work that needs lots of filler to make it look good
Jamie Duff wrote: My personal thoughts are that
there is virtually nothing to the fuselage
structure anyway, and certainly nothing which can be safely omitted from the
plans which are fairly minimal
S41,22M,V.W logo in circle, 043.101.101A
Thanks Virg.
Don Chisholm wrote:"HAPI didn't believe in "Stroker V.W.'s"
Answ.: That threw me as I did not have a clue what a "Stroker" engine was!
However, Google educated me in a hurry.HAPI literature at the time stated that
HAP
Hapi didn't believe in stroker VWs at first until Steve Bennett was marketing
2180's and having them be a successful engine, What you have there is a stock
stroke VW with 94 MM cylinders and pistons and is a type 1 engine probably with
Mexican engine cases. Even back in thw 80s most aftermarket
I ended up with 2 finished KR2 stripped hulks because the composite work was
very poor and have seen others so it might be easy after the fact but not
everyone develops the skill. There are pitfalls to it like there are to any
skill and it takes practice to master it and it takes alot to turn a
you shouldn't have any problems if you make good covers using a good quality
breathable boat topping material and there are materials available with
synthetic felt backings that will keep the chafing problem at bay. Although
Chris Gardener brings his KR2S in every winter, his is outside and is
I worked in a bodyshop a while back and the painter there when polyurethane
paint was state of the art and this guy used to spray without a respirator and
the whole shop used to stop work and watch him paint because they couldn't
believe it. Nobody seen him die but it was everybodies knowledge
best book hands down is" How to rebuild your Volkswagen Air-cooled Engine" by
Tom Wilson/ HPBooks and only deals with the engine
Pete Diffey wrote: A good place to start is the Haynes
Manual
http://www.haynes.com/na101.html#anchor570578
Ronald Wright wrote:
>Does
I've done it 2 ways now, the first was on my KR1 where I drilled all my holes
first and then fitted everthing up and what happens is the holes through the
outer spars are not in a 90 degree plane to the surface of the fitting when
you bolt the center and outer fittings together and had to make
As you progress with your project you will gain much knowledge and your level
of skill will increase exponentially, you can kid yourself that everything is
OK or wake up with the cold realization that you should or shouldn't have done
something and end up with a lawn ornament. My first attempt
I'm not going to profess at being an absolute expert on the subject here but
I'll express an apprehension here about using a layer of fibereglass cloth in a
glue joint. It has been my experience with a cloth and resin layup that it is
strong in tension and has some compressive strength but has
and resin layup that it is strong in tension and
>has some compressive strength but has no peel strength
Don Chisholm
++
I don't expect my canopy or turtledeck bows to ever have any "peel"
loads applied. Also, what changes in a glue joint
Correct me if I'm wrong as I'm sure someone will but I seem to remember that
there was an issue with ground adjustable propellers and harmonics with VW
cranks. Maybe Great Plains Aircraft's Force One prop hub solves the problem but
I'm sure the person to answer this question is Steve Bennet
losing weight is simple, it's a matter of self discipline, An example is, a 190
lb. man requires 3300 calories in his diet to maintain his weight. 1 lb. of
body weight is valued at 1500 calories, keep track and eat less calories than
what you require to maintain your weight. Beer is 241
We just had a mid air collision between 2 Cessnas on Friday here in a practise
area and 3 people got killed an instructor and his student were in one aircraft
Allen Wiesner wrote: > I saw one at Sebring (LSA
Expo) earlier this year that was optical. It
> scanned the
I know that this is a little off the subject of gluing oillite bearings in but
feel that this product should be mentioned to anyone that is considering using
lubricated plain bushings. There is a product called Garlock DU series bearings
and what they are are spring steel jackets that have a
If you're considering trying another brand of resin, have a look at MGS. Wicks
and Aircraft Spruce carry it. It's a formulation designed in Europe for their
Aerospace industry and is exclusively used in Diamond Aircraft (Katana). It's
of very low toxicity, cure times are adjustable, has
Also use crossed cables with turnbuckles (cheap ones) from the top of one side
to the bottom of the other side both sides and drop a plumb bob to align the
top centerline to the one marked on your table. It makes it totally adjustable
VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote: I put a
I'm wondering why nobody has mentioned Machinerys Handbook as a source of
information. It has everything you need to know on the subject being discussed
and by the way 6061 T6 is only about 70% the strength of 2024 T3
Mark Langford wrote: Don Lively wrote:
> I would stay
Hi Bob, My name is Don Chisholm, I f you don't have any other takers please put
my name on the list for your compass. I need a compass to mount on my canopy
frame on my KR1 as the hole in my panel for the compass is being used for
another engine instrument and want to remotely mount a compass
I've never seen it this quiet, I was begining to wonder
bo...@hatconversions.com wrote:
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info
turner for the business and even get to write her off on
taxes.
Doug Rupert.
Don Chisholm
Subject: Re: KR> For sale
I have a outer wing panel set that are jig built using a laser level that
are precision aligned with center section spars and are AS5046 with a
horizontal stabilizer and elev
I have a outer wing panel set that are jig built using a laser level that are
precision aligned with center section spars and are AS5046 with a horizontal
stabilizer and elevator from the same drawings. I'm keeping my KR1 and going
onto a different project, will sell all for cost of materials.
who supplies Dart industries
here's my 2 cents worth " maybe ' again. but these wars that get started
seem to breath life into this on line repartee. I don't think anyone is really
offended
in the long run of it and it keeps this lively. My little foray about steel
tube fuselages
recently netted me some good info that put
Touche'
Mark Jones <mjo...@muellersales.com> wrote:-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Don Chisholm
Sorry Mark Jones, we're brothers with a difference of opinion.no hard feelings?
Don and others,
Don't be sorry and
I don't know if Ron is An upholsterer /Canvass guy but I'm the person that
suggested
the Odyssey Soft Touch And I already have a Pattern for a Stock KR2 Canopy Cover
and I'd be interested in patterning up wing covers , turtle deck, tail covers
and cowling covers
I manufacture seat sets for
Hi Ron; I'll wait till friday to post a proposal to the net but I think I can
make covers for a half decent price as once I do the pattern which is
a big part of the job the ones after the first one are straight layout
cut and sew and I've done covers for various aircraft so I have a good
idea
doing professional looking looking upholstery really does depend on what
equipment
you have at your disposal as the craft itself is not difficult. The difference
is that an
upholsterer has a repertory of techniques and has a hands on knowledge of the
materials being used, thousands of hours at
Yes
patrusso wrote:D
Fuselage uncovered.
Pat
- Original Message -
From: "Dennis Mingear"
To: "KRnet"
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: KR> steel tube fuselages
> Was that covered or uncovered Pat?
>
> Denny ...
>
> --- patrusso
wrote:
>
>>
Just to let you know;my steel tube take off from a KR2S is a work in progress
I've invested years of thinking and research into this and have a completed
fuselage
my wing spar set comes from a stripped KR2 and I've foamed and glassed my outer
wing panels and built a tail and am getting ready to
I'm an automotive upholsterer by trade and if you don't mind my
2 cents worth my favorite material to use especially for canopy covers
is a material called Odyssey Soft Touch manufactured by MarChem Coated
Fabrics.Inc.. What it is is a light weight coated polyester that is waterproof
and
that's an idea for thought. I'm getting ready to start machining parts
Don Reid suggests that the waf's almost as they are, are probably sufficient
my view is that how the spar sets are attached to the stock fuselage it
shouldn't bve too hard to come up with something at least that structurally
I'm looking for aluminum bar stock for landing gear legs, up here in the frozen
north pickings are slim. Aircraft Spruce has 3/4 inch x 4 inch 2024 T3 but
I'm looking for 1 inch x 4 inch 2024 T3 or 7075 T6.
Any suggestions?
Thanks people for the input I got some good leads.Stuff like that is hard to
locate here in Canada as some grades are not manufactured here and
must be imported from the good old U.S of A. You guys have everything
just to get a dicussion going. I have a hypothetical question to the net and
I'm sure it's been either done or thought about.
If one decided to mate a KR wing set to a truss type steel tube fuselage
how would one go about doing it?
. My thoughts are to go with a Sonerai 2 style set up
as it is
e wood
and steel fuse.
Denny ...
--- Don Chisholm wrote:
> just to get a dicussion going. I have a hypothetical
> question to the net and I'm sure it's been either
> done or thought about.
GOP = Greed-Oppression-Power.
__
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine
I just weighed my Sidewinder fuselage and it weighs 58 lbs
just to let you know I registered my KR1 in the primary ultralight catigory
here in Canada
with a stall speed of 45 mph. If you look at the early KR2 plans it calls the
stall speed as
42 mph
Dennis Mingear wrote:
Most KR's are not as fast as most people think they
are.
I'm curious about prop clearances and what's available for bigger diameter
props as what would be used on a 0 200 Continental or 0 235 Lycoming.
I haven't looked at other designs yet but am interested in other peoples
thoughts and experiences on the subject on the kr net
With Jeff Scott's development of his KR2 seems that the KR's are on the cusp
of another development phase. I remember some time ago on the net here
there was talk of extending the tail boom to make the tail more effective rather
than increasing the span of the h/s, elevator combination. What is
This may start a info storm on the kr net but it's my understanding that
sanding end cuts is a no no for 2 reasons. first being a fresh cut exposes
end grain of the wood and sanding knocks the exposed cut end of the
long indiviual wood fiber over and the adhesive can't wick into the cut end.
if you need a reference for proper gluing techniques
you'll find a back up to what has been mentioned earlier on the krnet today
in the EAA how to series " Building the Custom Aircraft With Wood volume 1
on page 20 titled " Glues And Gluing" No point in reinventing the wheel
and ignoring previous
I've been loosly following Jeff Scott's narrative about his h/s modification
and have built a stab. elevator combo from TET AS5046 drawings that
establish the level line to give the stab. a -- .75 degree incidence.
I'm wondering what is the ideal or are the numbers still out on that one
couldn't make thje gathering we had our chapter fly in on the same weekend
that I was commited to. I'd be interested to see pictures of KR1's that made
the gathering. after all that is the first airplane in the movement
I guess I' d better get my bott in gear and show up at the next gathering
with my KR1. I'm almost finished putting my VW engine back together
and installing it back on the airplane. I haven't thrown the Posa away yet
but will when I purchasec an Aerocarb as that is the only carb I can use
without
about 5 years ago there used to be a website linked to what was online
at that time in relationship to KR'S called area 51 where KR's that started
as KR's but ended up being something else were showcased.
Anybody know if that site still exists?
Hi Dubi; my name is Don Chisholm I live in Oshawa Ontario Canada
I'm posting this to you off line because the KR experts on line seem
to disagree with me about building wings first and it doesn't seem to
make any difference that I'm building my second KR and have extsnsive
aircraft experience
oops pushed the wrong button on my last note
Mike;
I put my wings in another room when I finished them
their not in my way
it really doesn't matter about the bows in the banana boat
top longerons or the orientation of the firewall in relation to
the longerons as your alignments should be established
on a longtitudinal plane in relationship to your angle of
incidence of your airfoil profile and all your alignments
(
Steve; seeing as how you haven't installed your center spars
yet may I make a suggestion, food for thought.
I built my outer wing panels with my center spars mounted
in a rollover jig made from angle iron. It allowed me to turn
my assembly over so I could glass my foam cores top
side up, bottom
on my KR1 I did a half a torque tube style stick
assy. to put my stick in the center of the fuselage
so I could use my leg as an armrest and because
the one out of the plans bit the big one.
on my 2S project I'm adapting a SuperCub dual
stick assy. and using it transverse along my front
center
being an upholsterer by trade I've yanked millions
of staples best way is with a tack puller ( if you
don't have access to staple puller tools) and a set
of side cutters. What I did when I built my KR1
fuselage was staple over tacking strip so as
not to leave staple marks on the plywood
less to
didn't we go through a thing with cat crap
not too long ago?
The KRnet is about KR's just like the title
says
Stick to the subject please
Darryl Gilbert from Gilbert Custom Aircraft has
a 1915 cc VW engine for sale for $2500. The
engine is complete set up for dual ignition
with a top mount starter accessory case and
is new never been run. He also has other
engines from A 75 to 0 200 Continentals
0 235 to 0 360 Lycomings. his
basically when you normalize 4130 you are
just stress relieving it. You can do that by
heating it to red and letting it aircool at
room temperature same as you do with
a cluster on a steel tube airframe
your timing light might work it's one
you'd have to try on the chance that
you fry the coil in the mag. If you
don't want to take the chance, get
a piezo buzzer from Radio Shack
part #273-065 or 273-066 ( about
$3) and a 9 volt battery same as
you use in a smoke detector and
wire between the P
I copied my latch mechanism from
a 2 33 glider but after the fact seen a similar
idea in Sonerai 2 plans. This idea works on
a swing over canopy. Basically it works on
a spring loaded pin that inserts into a latch
hole, you can get the idea from your standard
door knob and latch plate. Mine has 2
Deciding to make new hinges and just bolting
them on is a bit stickier than that. Any mis-
alignment of the hinges will make your control
surface bind. To maintain alignment when
mounting them is maintained by using a proper
diameter steel rod inserted through the hinges
and when you swivel the
what will determine how heavy it will be
is how well your initial fibreglass work is and how
well finished you want it
The stock spring bar as purchased from
R.R is 7075 T6 aluminum and it's been
my understanding that 7075 T6 aluminun
is not a weldable grade of aluminum. If
you want to study the properties of this
grade of aluminum , you'll find what you
need to know in Machineriys Handbook
What it is is spring
sorry about my spelling on my last
message. one fingered typing and
no glasses is a bummer
I'm fairly new to the krnet but have been
involved with KR's for quite some time now
and was a subscriber to the newsletters
from early times. The early newsletters
were great and some of the ideas portrayed
were pure genius and the KR2S and many
of the ideas for fittings and hardware on the
KR2S
I've got to keep the record straight but the
rod ends I used came from a gentleman
named Mel Locke from Calgary Alberta
they are not rod ends like Dr. Dean suggested
and personally I like his idea better. They
were easier to do than what I did on my
KR1. I'm still amazed that I got my hinge
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