Re: [lace] Architect's linen

2013-04-24 Thread Anna Binnie

On 22/04/13 4:57 PM, Jean Nathan wrote:

DH was an engineering lecturer and taught, among other things, technical
drawing. When the subject started to move to computers, he brought home
what the college had because he didn't think computers would catch on
(LOL) and knew the college would throw out what they had on the
assumption that computers would be the way to go. Of course, DH was
wrong and we had half a dozen full rolls of architects linen in the loft
for several years until we moved, when he threw it out because it was
never going to be needed again and that was long before I took up
lacemaking or knew about needlelace.

Somewhere at the bottom of a landfill in Essex are six full rolls of
architects linen!

Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK
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I have the architect's linen that my husband grabbed for me under 
similar circumstances. I have also boiled it down to make nighties for 
me and handkerchieves for both of us.


Anna from a sunny cool Sydney

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[lace] Architect's linen

2013-04-22 Thread Jean Nathan
DH was an engineering lecturer and taught, among other things, technical 
drawing. When the subject started to move to computers, he brought home what 
the college had because he didn't think computers would catch on (LOL) and 
knew the college would throw out what they had on the assumption that 
computers would be the way to go. Of course, DH was wrong and we had half a 
dozen full rolls of architects linen in the loft for several years until we 
moved, when he threw it out because it was never going to be needed again 
and that was long before I took up lacemaking or knew about needlelace.


Somewhere at the bottom of a landfill in Essex are six full rolls of 
architects linen!


Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK 


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[lace] architect's linen

2011-12-29 Thread Lorelei Halley
Jill
Architect's linen isn't really necessary.  Most of us use standard weight
paper for the pattern, and then cover the paper with sticky plastic film (to
keep the pattern from tearing, and to keep ink off the lace).  I suggest you
look at http://needlelacetalk.ning.com   We have a BEGINNERS group where
you can get lots of advice.  Joining is free.  All the content is visible,
even if you aren't a member, but you have to join to be able to post
questions.
Lorelei

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Re: [lace] Architect's Linen comparables pre-pricking

2011-01-09 Thread Susan Reishus
 
I am loving this sharing!  :-)
 
Thanks so much to Bev, for her tip on Magic
Mending Tape, the finite details and 
downfalls from Pat T., Jacquie’s
sharing in precision and technique, and Eve’s 
sharing of sewing machine
pricking for needle lace.
 
Bless your hearts!
 
Susan Reishus

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[lace] Architect's Linen Comparables

2011-01-09 Thread Jane Partridge
In message 666730.22564...@web34405.mail.mud.yahoo.com, Susan Reishus 
elationrelat...@yahoo.com writes

My question regarding your suggestion would be why buy brown paper  and the
Weldbond (even if we can get it here!) and spend time diluting,  pasting the
paper and waiting for it to dry when the adhesive plastic  films work as well
and are bought ready-to-use? Jane Patridge

I am confused, as you had shared that Architect's Linen would be used 
for needle
lace, and adhesive plastic over paper would be used for bobbin 
(paraphrased)?


No, what I meant was that adhesive plastic over a paper pattern (which 
is then tacked onto a backing of (in my case) three layers of calico) is 
for needlelace. If you need the support to be firmer, after couching, 
you can pin it to a needlelace pillow to work the lace. The pad is 
comfortable to stitch through when tacking the pattern on and couching - 
which if it was thicker or stiffer, it wouldn't be - so that is probably 
why you would want to pre-prick it? If the couching stitch comes up and 
goes down through the same hole there is a danger of the cordonnet being 
pulled through the pattern - hence I tend not to do this.


The same plastic can be used on bobbin lace prickings, but in this case 
whereas some will use it on paper alone to give it a bit more substance, 
the use we were taught (which I no longer do) was to use it over a 
non-waterproof paper pattern* which has been stuck to pricking card to 
save drawing in the pattern markings. *By non-waterproof, I mean some 
inks, pencil, printer toners etc that are not waterproof and may mark 
the thread if it gets damp through the atmosphere or from your hands. I 
just use pricking card and where necessary mark it using a waterproof 
pen.


Not all permanent markers are waterproof - check that it states 
waterproof on the pen before trusting it, regardless of the supplier!



 Some prefer having a taut surface to
work upon and others, less so.  You mentioned 3 layers of calico (here, 
a small

cottage print) or muslin (US), but I would prefer something a bit stiffer,
knowing that play tends to accrue and when removed, proportion can be off.


The calico is used as a support under the pattern in needlelace, with 
all layers tacked together round the edge, and only the couching 
stitches go through it, so I don't really see where any play would 
cause a problem.



our muslin is a much finer, coarser woven cloth Jane Partridge

For some reason, I am not comprehending what that means.  Can you help me
understand?  TIA, Susan Reishus

I've explained this in a bit more detail off list.
--
Jane Partridge

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[lace] Architect's Linen etc

2011-01-06 Thread Jane Partridge
In message 206436.95516...@web34402.mail.mud.yahoo.com, Susan Reishus 
elationrelat...@yahoo.com writes

Sorry, as I never saw your query, Sue.  I was pondering the thought on my own
and had not been partaking of much on the list.  I suppose  the beginnings of
these repeated topics often began at the onset of the list itself.

I don't remember a discussion of architect's linen replacement (thought there
may have been) as I take breaks over the years.  If so, then I 
completely missed

comments on Canaletto, and don't think it is in the archives.


Having been on the list since a few months after it began, I don't think 
needlelace queries have come up all that often (tatting even less, 
though I believe a lot of tatters split off and formed their own group 
ten or so years ago) whereas discussion on prickings - especially the 
question of whether or not to pre-prick a pattern, has come up from time 
to time. Sue asked the question regarding architect's linen (which has 
become more difficult to obtain over the last ten years) only a couple 
of days ago, so you possibly only blinked to miss it, Susan!


I certainly had never heard of Canaletto before you mentioned it in your 
post this week, so doubt very much if it has been mentioned on the list 
before (though I may be wrong).


I still have a small amount of linen, but frequently use a dark green 
matt sticky backed plastic for needlelace as the threads show up well 
against it. Whatever you use, it needs to be easily pierced by a needle 
for couching, but then resist the needle point when working the 
needlelace stitches. Interestingly, with other needle type laces, I 
believe that a century or so ago a sheet of brown paper (similar to that 
we use for parcels which is smooth and shiny one side but can be quite 
rough on the other) was used for the Battenburg/Branscombe/Princess type 
tape laces, and we were taught Carrickmacross using butter paper, which 
again has a smooth surface. In this case, Sheila Regan taught us to make 
the stitches using the blunt (eye) end of the needle rather than the 
point, to avoid puncturing the paper.


For prickings, I prefer to use glazed manilla pricking card - and to 
pre-prick the pattern. Once or twice with a one off sample I have used 
just the paper pattern, but wasn't really happy with this. For Honiton, 
the card needs to have more substance, and is slightly thicker - in 
order to withstand the attentions of the needlepin during sewings! Some 
old prickings I have, dating back to 1911, are in really thick cardstock 
- I remember one friend I showed them to saying that he thought it would 
have taken a small hand drill to make the holes! Certainly most of our 
modern prickers wouldn't have gone through it! When I first started 
making lace, I had an idea to use the outer covers of old exercise 
books, which appeared to be of similar card but coloured - I was warned 
off this by an experienced lacemaker as it might have been possible that 
the dyes used in the card were not waterproof, and thus could stain the 
lace if they got damp. Also, the card being of a coarser fibre, it was 
possible that fibres disturbed by the pins could end up woven into the 
lace. I now just use card and a waterproof pen for the pattern markings 
- much cheaper than having to buy the film to cover the pattern as well, 
saves getting adhesive on the pins and the patterns survive constant use 
on a block pillow just as well!

--
Jane Partridge

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Re: [lace] Architect's Linen etc

2011-01-06 Thread Susan Reishus
Thank you for the lovely information, Jean.  I think this sharing is helpful, 
as 
one always picks up a thing or two, and a variant perspective.  s  (Including 
most of it, as it bears repeating.)

Butter paper in the US, is a better grade of wax(ed) paper, being nicer paper 
with less wax (than what we call wax(ed) paper.  Curious if it is the same in 
the UK?

Best,
Susan Reishus


I don't think needlelace queries have come up all that often (tatting even 
less...I still have a small amount of linen, but frequently use a dark green 
matt sticky backed plastic for needlelace...needs to be easily pierced by a 
needle for couching, but then resist the needle point when working... a 
century...ago a sheet of brown paper (...parcels...smooth and shiny 
(sides)...Carrickmacross using butter paper...make the stitches using the blunt 
(eye) end of the needle...use glazed manilla pricking card...Honiton 
(needs)...more substance...slightly thicker ...withstand...the needlepin during 
sewings...prickings...1911...really thick cardstock...would (take)...hand drill 
to make the holes!...I now just use card and a waterproof pen...cheaper (than) 
film to cover (also)...saves...adhesive on the pins and the patterns survive 
constant use!
-- Jane Partridge

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Re: [lace] Architect's Linen Comparables - Prickings

2011-01-05 Thread Susan Reishus
Thank you for your kind response, Alice. That is pertinent information that is 
very helpful.  I did think ornament size would come up as the exception (as I 
am 
not sure that yardage or exceptionally involved projects are as popular as 
quicker projects tend to be.)

Unfortunately I think the canaletto paper is more popular in Europe, but am 
very 
curious if anyone is familiar with it for this purpose.  Perhaps those who 
prefer architect's paper over paper/stock covered in plastic have run across it 
or can provide insight.  


Thank you for the chart, Adele.  There is a lot of info on the net, and I have 
worked with the printing industry for my work and business needs over the 
decades so am familiar with NA standards, but that chart is more 
reader-friendly 
than most.

Best,
Susan Reishus






From: lacel...@frontier.com 

I have found that I will repeat some patterns several times, or many times, if 
I particularly like it...I tend to use a paper pattern on file folder and 
covered with plastic film...use...8 or 10 times...(for things) like bookmarks 
or 
ornaments...edging...a roller pillow...(with) a relatively short pattern...that 
is used repeatedly for the length...paper/folder/film sandwich...break(s) down 
before completing a(n)...edging...(used) like...100+ times...alternated (short 
sections)...really see the wear...can...do two or three yards on the 
pattern...(person) uses just the paper pattern...quick project...to be 
used...once...seems to work with her.  I want...thicker, even for 
a...quickie...prickings...saved...to do the project again... Alice in Oregon

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Re: [lace] Architect's Linen Comparables - Prickings

2011-01-05 Thread Laceandbits
Susan said Unfortunately I think the canaletto paper is more popular in
Europe, but am very curious if anyone is familiar with it for this purpose. 
Perhaps those who prefer architect's paper over paper/stock covered in
plastic have run across it or can provide insight.


Did I blink and miss something here, or has Susan got confused?  I always
connect architect's linen with needle lace, as it's reasonably soft and
flexible, but I think that Susan is talking about bobbin lace in this
instance.

The requirements for pattern/pricking for the two types of lace are fairly
disimilar - for needlelace it needs to be soft and flexible, see-through to
lay over the design, thin enough to be able to sew right through it to lay
the foundation threads, but with a smooth enough skin for the needle to
slide across it and not catch in it all the time once the lace itself is being
worked.  The pattern is usually only used once.  Architect's linen filled
all these criteria, with the added bonus of being a lovely matt finish, soft
blue in colour, making it very restful to work on in both white and many
colours.

For bobbin lace the base needs to be firm enough to prick through and
support the pins without tearing, (the softer the pillow, the more support is
needed from the pricking!) it can be stiff as it will be laying flat or gently
curved on a pillow or roller.  Often the guide lines are drawn on after the
holes are pricked so it doesn't 'need' to be see through (although it often
is, as this saves the job of drawing in).  Depending on how firm the
original base material is, the pricking can be used several to many times.

Jacquie in Lincolnshire.

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Re: [lace] Architect's Linen Comparables - Prickings

2011-01-05 Thread Sue Babbs
As I posted the original query I can assure that it was only referring to 
architects' linen and in the context solely of needle lace. I would not 
dream of using it for bobbin lace, for which I would consider it to be 
entirely inappropriate as it is not stiff enough for that purpose.


The original quest also did not refer to canaletto paper (most particularly 
as I had never heard of it before  Susan posted about it!)


Sue Babbs


***
The query began with a comparable to replace architect's linen, including
canaletto (more predominate in Europe) and went various ways from there. 
There
is also a blue stencil paper available in Europe, that is harder to find 
in the

US.



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Re: [lace] Architect's Linen Comparables - Prickings

2011-01-05 Thread bev walker
For what it's worth, I have tried architect's linen for both
needlelace and bobbin lace - to dismal results on *both* occasions,
because...for the needlelace, I washed the blue starch out first! duh!
The linen fabric is tough! For the bobbin lace, I used it with the
blue coating, had drawn the pricking on it freehand. I didn't bother
with that again, *pins didn't go through it readily*. LaL (Live and
Learn).

On 1/5/11, Sue Babbs sueba...@comcast.net wrote:
 As I posted the original query I can assure that it was only referring to
 architects' linen and in the context solely of needle lace. I would not
 dream of using it for bobbin lace, for which I would consider it to be
 entirely inappropriate as it is not stiff enough for that purpose.


-- 
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west
coast of Canada

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