Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members (Pipers silk)

2004-11-20 Thread David Collyer
Dear Tamara
Threads from Pipers can be ordered direct from the website or from a 
particular dealer in Geelong. They only take  about 5 days from the UK though.
When was the last time you'd ordered? g I ordered a batch on 
Sunday/Monday and was told that the delivery date *within UK* is 21 days; 
God and our president only know when it'll arrive in US...
That's interesting. It's probably a couple of years now since I ordered - 
but it was a big order :) However, it seems as though I'm going to end up 
using about 5 reels of the white 2/20 on this current Chantilly project. So 
perhaps I'd better start ordering again soon, as the cloth should be 
finished about mid next year.
David in Ballarat


---
Tamara P Duvall http://lorien.emufarm.org/~tpd
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)
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Re: [lace] re: reticent list members

2004-11-20 Thread Steph Peters
On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 19:16:54 -0500, Sherri wrote:
I have been lurking on this list for awhile now - seeing all the posts 
about a quiet list - maybe you won't mind my asking a few questions. I 
am a wannabe lacemaker, not even a beginner - I have bobbins, some 
thread and pins, even a few prickings - I have balked at the purchase of 
a pillow and would like to know:
snip
2. And how would you recommend that a beginner learn on her/his own? I 
live in an area where there are no lacemakers and no lacemaking classes. 
Is there a book that's especially good for beginners? A particular type 
of lace that is best for beginners to start with?

This list likes questions, there's always something new to learn.  For some,
like me, answering newbie questions now is a sort of 'repayment' for the
help I received here as an absolute beginner.

You've had some answers to your first question, so I'll tackle the second
one.

I learned on my own from books.  My recommendation is to try to get hold of
2 beginner books, using library facilities if possible.  Two books are very
much better than one because each author has their own way of explaining, so
what I didn't understand in one book could usually be sorted out by reading
a different explanation in the other book.  Also for the first few pieces I
did it was handy to have one book open at the pattern I was working, and the
other one open at the explanations of the basic stitches.

Most beginner lacemakers start with Torchon as this is good foundation.  It
is a geometric lace based on a regular grid which is a little easier to
follow at first than a lace based on curves.  Having said that, if a
beginner knows exactly what lace they aim to make long term, then it is
quite possible to start with something else.  When lace was made
commercially children started by learning the easiest patterns of the laces
made where they lived.  

My website has a list of comments by members of Arachne, compiled by
Winifred Keefer from discussions of beginner books in 1996 and 1999.  Some
of the books are out of print, but they may be available second hand.  The
list is at:
http://www.sandbenders.demon.co.uk/bobbinlace/begbook.htm

--
The desire of knowledge, like the thirst of riches, 
increases ever with the acquisition of it. Laurence Stern
Steph Peters  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tatting, lace  stitching page http://www.sandbenders.demon.co.uk/index.htm

Scanned by WinProxy
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Re: [lace] re: reticent list members

2004-11-19 Thread Ruth Budge
Dear Sherri,
Welcome!   And let me, on behalf of the Arachne list, assure you that we don't
mind questions of any sort!!  Asking questions is how you learn.

Pillows:  there are all sorts of pillows around the world, and, depending on
where you live, I'm sure that someone will be able to recommend a supplier of
an economical pillow to start with.  Here in Australia, most beginners start
with a styrene-type pillow (not just the fruit box variety, which breaks down
as soon you put a pin in it), shaped a bit like a mushroom.   They are quite
economical to buy, last quite a long time.  I usually advise a beginner to use
one of these pillows to learn the basics.  Then, once you've learnt a bit more,
and perhaps developed the feeling about which type of lace you're likely to
specialise in, buy a pillow especially suited to that type of lace.

For instance, I make a lot of long lengths of lace, so I have a pillow which
has a roller in it, and I just work round and round the roller until I've got
enough length for whatever project I'm working.

I taught myself lacemaking from Rosemary Shepherd's book An Introduction to
Bobbin Lacemaking.   It was based on a series of correspondence lessons which
Rosemary wrote especially for lacemakers living hundreds of miles away from a
teacher (in Australia).  So, as you can imagine, it contains step by step and
detailed instructions which enable someone to become a competent lacemaker on
their own.

Most people would prefer to have a teacher beside them, but I honestly feel
that having to nut out a problem by myself made me a better lacemaker.  I
frequently meet lacemakers who've been making the same type lace for 20 or 25
years, and still need someone to tell them what to do next - because they've
always been so reliant on a teacher to give them minute instructions (and
because the teacher has been silly enough to do so!)

Again, depending on where you live, someone should be able to tell you where
you can get Rosemary's book, or some other substitute.

Good luck with the lacemaking!
Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia) 



Sherri Butler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:I have been lurking on this list for
awhile now - seeing all the posts 
about a quiet list - maybe you won't mind my asking a few questions. I 
am a wannabe lacemaker, not even a beginner - I have bobbins, some 
thread and pins, even a few prickings - I have balked at the purchase of 
a pillow and would like to know:

1. What type of pillow most of you would recommend? Is there such a 
thing as an economically priced lace pillow? 

2. And how would you recommend that a beginner learn on her/his own? I 
live in an area where there are no lacemakers and no lacemaking classes. 
Is there a book that's especially good for beginners? A particular type 
of lace that is best for beginners to start with?

Thanks for any advice and I hope you pardon such ignorance. :-)
Sherri



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Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members

2004-11-18 Thread David Collyer
Dear Jen,
Here goes. Why isn't thread manufactured today that is as fine as those 
available in the early lace-making days. I'd
have thought that with the technology available these days (fibre optics, 
micro and nanotechnology etc etc) that small
wouldn't be a problem. If they could do it in the 1700's, why not now?
The threads certainly are available today.  Can I recommend you do a google 
search for the website of Pipers silks in the UK. I am currently using 
their 2/20 silk for a large Chantilly piece and loving it. That's pretty 
fine - and they're not the only ones. Silkeborg in Denmark also comes to 
mind. I'm fairly sure 180 cotton is still around. Egyptian 170/2 certainly 
is as well.

Threads from Pipers can be ordered direct from the website or from a 
particular dealer in Geelong. They only take  about 5 days from the UK though.
Regards
David in Ballarat

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Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members

2004-11-17 Thread DonLynn
My question Jen, is where can we buy 100 micron wire for Lenka's lace ideas.
Lynn Scott, Wollongong, Australia
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Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members

2004-11-17 Thread Edith Holmes
Having spent a great deal of time trying to find fine linen thread, I'll 
pass on the reasons I was given for it no longer being available.

To get fine thread, flax has to be grown very close together, so that it 
competes for light and nutrients, and becomes long and thin rather than a 
'healthier' size (same thing happens to all plants grown without suffucient 
light).  Then this flax, after retting and various other processes has to be 
spun, which requires a skilled spinner to cope with the fineness (and 
therefor delicacy) of the thread.  When lots of this thread was needed for 
lace and I presume other things, it was commercially viable to grow and 
manufacture it.  Sadly now, so little is required that it isn't commercially 
viable.  Add this on to the shift in attitude from 'serving the public' to 
'best bottom line', and perhaps we will understand why, as there are so few 
of us working in the finest threads now, no-one is likely to start making it 
again.

Occasionally old thread is available, but without knowing how it's been 
stored and what state it's in, I'm always wary of paying a huge price for 
it.

Edith
North Nottinghamshire
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

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Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members

2004-11-17 Thread Sue Clemenger
I had also heard that some of the varieties (for want of a more 
accurate phrase) of truly fine linen plants went extinct around the time 
of/during WWI.
--sue, another lurking list member who just really doesn't ever have 
much to contribute

Edith Holmes wrote:
Having spent a great deal of time trying to find fine linen thread, I'll 
pass on the reasons I was given for it no longer being available.

To get fine thread, flax has to be grown very close together, so that it 
competes for light and nutrients, and becomes long and thin rather than 
a 'healthier' size (same thing happens to all plants grown without 
suffucient light).  Then this flax, after retting and various other 
processes has to be spun, which requires a skilled spinner to cope with 
the fineness (and therefor delicacy) of the thread.  When lots of this 
thread was needed for lace and I presume other things, it was 
commercially viable to grow and manufacture it.  Sadly now, so little is 
required that it isn't commercially viable.  Add this on to the shift in 
attitude from 'serving the public' to 'best bottom line', and perhaps we 
will understand why, as there are so few of us working in the finest 
threads now, no-one is likely to start making it again.

Occasionally old thread is available, but without knowing how it's been 
stored and what state it's in, I'm always wary of paying a huge price 
for it.

Edith
North Nottinghamshire
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members

2004-11-17 Thread eva schaefer
Hello Jen and all
 there is no such thing as a dumb question! If you
don't ask, how are you going to learn!

Cannot help with the wire, and not much on the thread
one, but: at an OIDFA meeting in Sweden, we had, let's
call it a lively discussion, with a representative of
a linen thread manufacturer. His point was, they did
not make very fine thread because noone bought it,
and, of course, our position was, we don't buy it if
it is not available.  Chicken and the egg!

Greetings from freezing Spain, Eva





  




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Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members

2004-11-17 Thread Ilske Thomsen
Hello Jennifer,
Flax is a very difficult plant and to become thread is a very long 
working process so it is very expensive. And the  consumption of such 
fine linnen thread is so few that nobody is interested to do this heavy 
work and it would cost much more than it actually do. And in former 
time nearly everywhere in Europe flax was cultivated and much more 
things were made from linnen than today. There was a time you couldn't 
find any flax-field in Germany. we have a company outside of Hamburg 
who cultivate since a few years again flax but only for technical 
purposes.
Greetings

Ilske
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Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members

2004-11-17 Thread Lacemania
Jen,

I do wire bobbin lace and have gotten the gauges (US) from my local surplus 
store or from a source online in NJ.  Yes, you can use the wire from the shop, 
but I make sure it is coated wire with an enamel coating.  Usually the enamel 
is colored, hence, red wire, green wire, copper wire, etc.  The coating is a 
protection from the wire tarnishing.  This is desirable for me, but depends on 
the purpose the wire is being used for.

The gauges I use are from 30 (largish) to 33 which is fine.  When I use a 30 
gauge wire, it is usually a single strand.  When I use a 32 gauge wire, it is 
usually double stranded, depending on the design. I have designed some things 
using the double strands.  Lenka has some patterns which are single in this 
gauge and very wonderfully done.

And 33 gauge is usually tripled.  Since my patterns are using just the two 
elements of plaits and leaves, these suggested gauges and thickness work very 
well.

If you are interested in learning more, I have a page called a brief study 
in wire bobbin lace on my web page.  You may find it informative and useful.

Dianna Stevens
Kent Washington, USA
www.domesticarts.com 

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Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members

2004-11-17 Thread Lorri Ferguson
The wire Lenka uses (and so do several others) is from/the type used in coils
for electric motors.  Old rotary phones have lovely colors.  Try shops that
repair electric motors or co. that make the coils.  This is not an item found
at your typical craft or hardware store -you must 'think outside the box'.

Lorri -who does wire lace also
  - Original Message -
  From: DonLynnmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Jennifer Audsleymailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ;
[EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 1:23 AM
  Subject: Re: [lace] Re: reticent list members


  My question Jen, is where can we buy 100 micron wire for Lenka's lace
ideas.

  Lynn Scott, Wollongong, Australia

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