Ha! I am in Christchurch Gary! Crazy!
Have ordered the replacement batteries - maybe touch base when they arrive?
If you could help that would be brilliant
On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 5:14 PM Gary Hammond wrote:
> If you are in or near Christchurch, I can do it for you.
>
> On 18 September 2018
If you are in or near Christchurch, I can do it for you.
On 18 September 2018 4:03:29 PM Daryn Hanright wrote:
Cheers guys - I might see if I can find someone who can do this for me. Don't
wanna risk ruining it.
cheers
Daryn
On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 4:01 PM Daryn Hanright
Cheers guys - I might see if I can find someone who can do this for me.
Don't wanna risk ruining it.
cheers
Daryn
On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 4:01 PM Daryn Hanright wrote:
> Ha! Is New Zealand considered far away! :)
>
> Ideally given how hard it is to replace one all the way out here, & given
>
Ha! Is New Zealand considered far away! :)
Ideally given how hard it is to replace one all the way out here, & given
risks of me stuffing it up, I might try & get someone todo it for me. A new
Tandy 102 is invariably double the ebay cost with shipping out here.
cheers
Daryn
On Tue, Sep 18, 2018
Solder braid/wick has generally worked well for me. You may need to
add some flux to it to really get it to wick properly. If you don’t
have any flux, adding some fresh rosin core solder works too.
- Kevin
> On Sep 17, 2018, at 10:38 PM, Ian Eure wrote:
>
> Desoldering the battery isn’t a
Desoldering the battery isn’t a big deal. Start by clipping it
out,
leaving just the legs soldered in. This makes the whole procedure
much safer and easier. You really don’t want to sink heat into a
battery, it’s an explosion risk.
Once the body of the battery is gone, use needle-nose pliers
I just got a 102 off eBay today. It was sold as working, but
arrived
with four dead lines in the LCD. They’re horizontal, from the 2nd
row, and repeat every 16 pixels.
I opened it up and it worked fine. I figured it was the cable, so
I
sprayed some DeOxIt in there and put it back together,
Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a fair amount
of heat sink there.
I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you could damage
the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking for someone
to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself?
On
If I were going to mount this inside the M100, I would
1) retask the modem port to be directly connected to this
2) use a patched main rom to allow modem port to run at 19.2
3) directly wire it to the battery voltage (after the on/off switch)
On Mon, Sep 17, 2018 at 11:37 AM Kevin Becker
This is pretty cool. I think I might have to check it out. It might be an
excuse to finally get a 3d printer too.
On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 10:35 PM, Brian White wrote:
> There's the entire kit for SD2TPDD on an Adalogger 32u4.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/N2v6iB45pePNFQNA8
>
> Bam. Couldn't
Greg,
Definitely not mComm for the Pi. All my code is either Windows or
Android based and designed to work with off the shelf hardware such as
your PC, Android phone or Android TV box. Anything Linux related would
be LaddiCon or LaddiAlpha based.
Brian's TPDD project that looks really promising
Hi Greg,
Almost anything is possible with enough effort. The things to be
identified / solved in a Pi Zero "hat" for the M100 BUS would be a PCB that:
1. Fits in the limited space of the M100 expansion bay.
2. Provides the power needed by the Pi Zero.
3. Solves the 5V / 3.3V level
1. Still getting duplicates.
2. As for the modern replacement for a DVI, it seems that we're working on a
quicker/smaller tennis shoe network. Certainly good ideas all, but there is
very little software that actually takes advantage of 80 columns and 25 lines
for the M100. Somewhere in the
Just picked one up. It has a Thesaurus cartridge.
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