Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car. If there is
also a speed sensor on the rear, replace that while you are there as
well as the manifold seal(s). You may also want to consider replacing
the clutch, and
So you swapped out an r12 for an r134 evaporator? Did you also need to
install the newer R-134 expansion valve? I see from the EPC that there
is only one o-ring different between the two expansion valves, and it
seals one of the connections on the evaporator.
-Max
-Original Message-
For my '87 wagon, EPC shows the evaporator was revised five times and
condenser twice. Last revision for the evaporator made it identical to
my '95. Revision for condenser is still a different part number, 124
830 18 70 in my '87 vice 124 830 16 70 for my '95.
-Max
-Original Message-
Walt,
Neat stuff, I'd love to have same for my '87 wagon, engine is OM603.960.
Does Mitchel have any torque converter stall speed data? I would like
to know what that is for my '87 300TD, 124.193, transmission is 722.317.
Thanks,
Max
-Original Message-
From:
Looking at my last two posts, I'm wondering if the r134 expansion valve
will fit into my '87 wagon? If I've got to pull the dash to replace a
bad vacuum pod, why not go whole hog and replace the evaporator while
I'm there so that I know the newer r134 expansion valve will fit? Hmmm,
need to get
Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car.
You can also make this tool (for Nippondenso) if you have a
welder and a spare drain plug from a differential. See:
Gerry wrote:
Didn't you write something about replacing a compressor seal some time
ago, Jim?
I've not yet replaced a shaft seal.
-- Jim
---
Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you
The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty. You can remove the
clutch while the compressor is still mounted in the car. Theoretically you
could replace just the seal underneath leaving the compressor in the car, but
you may end up removing the radiator in order to get clearance.
I put the 134 expansion valve on my 88 300TE. it helps if you have
10-12 yr old hands and fingers, but I managed to get it done with
adult hands. I had extra orings, which was good, because I lost or
cut a small, odd sized one in the process.
My understanding is that the 134 models had a
Bingo, exactly what I wanted to hear. I'll be calling Rusty shortly to order a
new expansion valve. Condenser will have to wait - I'd like to compare my '95
to my '87 to see if it will fit.
-Max
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
I managed to swap the clutches on the MB and the DatHonToy compressor
with out any special tool, but I did have the compressors out of the
cars. I did a write up for the list several years ago.
The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty. You can
remove the clutch while the
Well when you get all that stuff maybe we can try out the HF cheapie vac
pump and gauges, and consult on the noisy compressor in the converted 84 SD.
--R
On 7/9/2010 9:28 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
wrote:
Bingo, exactly what I wanted to hear. I'll be calling Rusty
Max wrote:
Seals on the compressor are easy/peasy IF you have the special tool for
removing the clutch and AFTER you get it out of the car.
You can also make this tool (for Nippondenso) if you have a
welder and a spare drain plug from a differential. See:
The special tool for removing the clutch is pretty nifty. You can remove
the clutch while the compressor is still mounted in the car.
Theoretically you could replace just the seal underneath leaving the
compressor in the car, but you may end up removing the radiator in order
to get clearance.
The expansion valve is the same on the outside. the new one was
stamped with 134 on the outside.
Bingo, exactly what I wanted to hear. I'll be calling Rusty shortly
to order a new expansion valve. Condenser will have to wait - I'd
like to compare my '95 to my '87 to see if it will fit.
Sure can. S'not though, this is a good American trailer from the '70s! Only
rust protection was a poor quality coat of paint. Fortunately previous owners
repainted and I've kept up with it, except on this bit which is deep underneath.
-Curt
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 11:03:32 -0500
From: R A
this is a good American trailer from the '70s! Only rust protection
was a poor quality coat of paint.
My EZ-Loader had only what appears to be an excellent coat of paint.
There's a limit to what paint can do, when you repeatedly dunk the
whatsit in salt water and don't get a chance to rinse it
Ford made a Fairmont wagon in the early 80's that would have been comparable
too. I never had the wagon but I had
the Mercury Zephyr 2 door and it was quite a decent little car with an inline 6.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Two questions:
Do you have AC and are you using it?
2nd Question, if you do not have working AC do you have the AC aux fan? Put a
switch in to permit you to manually
turn it on so you have more airflow through the rad.
Also a suggestion to make sure that the main rad fan is working correctly.
Max wrote:
Neat stuff, I'd love to have same for my '87 wagon, engine is OM603.960.
Yes - and also needed is the 616 engine cheat sheet, although the 617
is just one cylinder more... so maybe it works fine... generally.
mao
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this is pretty cool, though it's for the 617.912 (non-turbo).
if we could get one of these for the turbo-diesel (617.952), that would
be *super* cool! ;-)
cheers!
e
On 08/Jul/10 10:21, Walt Zarnoch wrote:
Found this today, figured someone else might find it useful.
I can possibly grab
How close is this to the engine in the 115? My guess is pretty close. I assume
that the 123 has the oil filter
housing up top but apart from that probably not much difference.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of
http://www.durangoherald.com/sections/News/2010/07/09/Driver_survives_cars_496foot_plunge_off_Red_Mountain_Pass/
--R
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Rich Thomas wrote:
http://www.durangoherald.com/sections/News/2010/07/09/Driver_survives_cars_496foot_plunge_off_Red_Mountain_Pass/
The less often it rains, the more slippery the roads are when it does rain.
Mitch.
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Now if they could only figure out how to build that kind of safety to
the Lexus LFA rimshot
-Rolf
Mitch Haley wrote:
Rich Thomas wrote:
http://www.durangoherald.com/sections/News/2010/07/09/Driver_survives_cars_496foot_plunge_off_Red_Mountain_Pass/
The less often it rains, the more
Gerry stop off at Advance and Autozone and see if they have the
tool for rent. I seem to remember doing that a few years ago when
I needed to replace a clutch on a compressor.
Manfred
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2010 09:47:34 -0400
From: archer arche...@embarqmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re:
Jill called me at lunch from the library parking lot, and said that the
560SL battery (that went through Hell with the alternator incident) made
a big 'pop' noise when she went to start the car, and fluid started
dripping out of the back. (It also wouldn't start, and had been
getting difficult
They have to tool.
Don't try to remove the clutch on a R4 without it. DAMHIK
Russ W.
MG wrote:
Gerry stop off at Advance and Autozone and see if they have the tool
for rent. I seem to remember doing that a few years ago when I needed
to replace a clutch on a compressor.
Manfred
Date:
Good idea, Manfred; never thought of that. I've borrowed a number of tools
from Autozone.
They might even be able to order the seal. Rusty doesn't carry them and GM
dealer has to order them for $45.
Thanks,
Gerry
Gerry stop off at Advance and Autozone and see if they have the
tool for rent.
Jim Cathey wrote:
Exploding battery, that's a first for me.
And, IIRC, charging voltage was reasonable when you tested it.
I'd still test the charging just to be safe.
Mitch.
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Thanks, Russ. Good abbreviation.
Gerry
---
They have to tool.
Don't try to remove the clutch on a R4 without it. DAMHIK
Russ W.
MG wrote:
Gerry stop off at Advance and Autozone and see if they have the tool
for rent. I seem to remember doing that a few years ago
I had a battery on a piece of equipment blow up in my face many moons
ago. We had jumped the battery, and when we disconnected the
jumpers, the spark ignited the hydrogen gas from the battery, which
was now charging.
Ever since then, I am very careful to hook up the last connection as
a
My buddy is going to be buying an Audi A8 sometime in the next few
months. Car is in perfect condition, 52k miles. I am thinking about
$15k plus something for the 100k ext warranty? I might consider it,
though with the SD and other cars, it would not be a popular choice at
this time. And
Notice anything familiar?
http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/1834374642.html
http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/1834334118.html
--R
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http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1833697723.html
--R
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http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1832837612.html
Looks good!
--R
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This one might have it beat.
http://chico.craigslist.org/cto/1834666383.html
Dave
On Jul 9, 2010, at 8:10 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1832837612.html
Looks good!
—R
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On Fri, 09 Jul 2010 23:08:11 -0400 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/1833697723.html
Ick! Wretch! Patooey!
Craig
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Exploding battery, that's a first for me.
And, IIRC, charging voltage was reasonable when you tested it.
I'd still test the charging just to be safe.
It was 14.03V when I tested it after putting the new one in.
-- Jim
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There must have been hydrogen gas and a spark. The hydrogen gas may
have been in the battery box from when she was driving the car. The
spark came when she tried to start the car.
H2 had to be inside the battery, as did the spark. The box was
just fine, but the battery case itself was
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