> Rolf wrote:
> I have mixed and matched slave cylinders from all kinds of
> w123's with no ill effect. They should all be the same. If you
> have a longer one it is from the v8 as the bellhousing
> placement pull its further away. Infact right now I believe
> both the slave and master on my 123 a
Iirc you use those to protect the seal as you slide it on, like you use the
cup for the front main seal on a 61x engine.
Lube up, insert gently, slide over valve, seat it, carefully remove plastic
tube.
Someone correct me if I got the procedure wrong, my brain is in "wheelspin
mode" right now.
W
VIN#WDBCA45D1GA256289
Need a carfax, trying to get a whole history of it before I hand over the dough.
Thanks for any/all help.
Joe
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/a
For anyone on the list who has experience replacing W123 valve stem seals, I
obtained a new set of these and before I tear into things I need to ask what
the purple spiral striped plastic tubular thingies are for as the procedure
(05-270) from the W123 engine workshop manual doesn't mention the
That was a replacement head already.
-Rolf
On 3/4/2011 5:32 PM, Benz Hogs wrote:
What about finding someone with a 603rodbender and offering to
purchase their #22 head? This is what I did on eBay for my SDL. Came
with injectors and chambers.
Luther KB5QHUOak Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312
Expensive w/o the prechambers, you are correct, but mine included
chambers and injectors. The angle difference was not enough that I
needed to change the injector lines, they remain the original '87 lines
from the 14 head.
Luther KB5QHUOak Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram
That's great, one less W115 rusting away and going to the crusher! I hate
no show buyers, or those who come out and spend 20 minutes driving it around
and poking under the hood only to say "That isn't really what I wanted. I
had this happen a few days ago with an RC car I had for sale, and it
Benz Hogs wrote:
What about finding someone with a 603rodbender and offering to purchase
their #22 head? This is what I did on eBay for my SDL. Came with
injectors and chambers.
It would be expensive if the proper prechambers were not included.
Did you need to change injection lines too?
__
I nearly sold my 1975 W115 300D last week, but I got annoyed with a no-show
buyer so I have reconsidered the whole thing. Bottom line: I love the car
too much to part with it. So I have a new project, and... leaping into the
21st Century with my son Brian's urging, I have started a blog
Begin forwarded message:
> From: Joe Sasser
> Date: March 4, 2011 4:47:08 PM CST
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Subject: Need CARFAX Check done please, if any can manage it
>
> VIN#WDBCA45D1GA256289
>
> Need a carfax, trying to get a history of it before I hand over the dough.
>
> Thanks for
What about finding someone with a 603rodbender and offering to purchase
their #22 head? This is what I did on eBay for my SDL. Came with
injectors and chambers.
Luther KB5QHUOak Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)
On 3/4/2011 10:17 AM, Rolf wrote:
Yes, rem
On Fri, 04 Mar 2011 15:01:41 -0600 R A Bennell wrote:
> I think I bought the spacers, shields, whatever they are called that
> one puts in behind the injectors so would replace them too I guess.
It's a good idea.
> Any likelyhood that I will have trouble getting the injectors out?
Usually the
I have mixed and matched slave cylinders from all kinds of w123's with
no ill effect. They should all be the same. If you have a longer one it
is from the v8 as the bellhousing placement pull its further away.
Infact right now I believe both the slave and master on my 123 are from
201. I assume
Oh an you will need new injector return lines. A word of advice, but
them about 1" longer than you need them to be. Then when it fails on you
in the middle of nowhere with 200miles to the next diesel station you
can simply cut the end off and put the hose back on...
-Rolf
On 03/04/2011 04:01
You need a 27mm deepsocket and it has to be really deep, the ones at
autozoo will not do the trick. Kobalt from lowes did. I evenetually
bought the hazet proper tool for the job. You ream anytime you take the
gp out. I like using the injector holes as it requires less work IMO.
The heat shields
My tester, and the snap-on tester I used go into the GP holes. In
some cases, it is hard to test compression on #3 if the IP is set
close to the head. There is not enough room to get the adapter in
the hole and a hose on the adapter.
This is the same on OM engines from 1959 up to the OM603 a
Thanks guys. Good to know.
Anything else you can think of that I need to know? I think I bought the
spacers, shields, whatever they are called that one puts in behind the
injectors so would replace them too I guess. Any likelyhood that I will
have trouble getting the injectors out? I seem to r
Curt,
You finally said something that clicked with me. Is the slave
cylinder in this car smaller or larger in bore and length of bore
then the slave cylinder in the car that the master cylinder came
out of?
Also, if the rod isn't connected to the pedal can you pull up on
the peddle and rais
Max Dillon wrote:
Randy,
Very little diesel fuel will dribble out of the injector lines when cranking the
engine with the fuel rack at the idle position. The injector is required at the
end of that fuel line to build the pressure up for a quick high pressure spray.
And if you put a mityvac
Randy,
Very little diesel fuel will dribble out of the injector lines when cranking
the
engine with the fuel rack at the idle position. The injector is required at
the
end of that fuel line to build the pressure up for a quick high pressure spray.
-Max
Fr
The thread on the tick suggested compression testing and that got me to
wondering about doing one.
Anyone have good advice on testing an old 300D 115 normally aspirated
engine?
Am I correct that one must remove the injectors and use those holes for
the tester?
What happens with the diesel
I think hg = head gasket, def = definitely.
I believe I can't order any hg until I pull the head and determine whether or
not it gets milled, as there are different thicknesses of hg, no?
-Max
From: Craig
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 12
On Fri, 04 Mar 2011 11:17:58 -0500 Rolf wrote:
> I compared the 606 to the 603 hg last night, the 606 def seems to be of
> different material. The Finns say its copper but without one in
> hand
hg?
def?
copper?
Please explain
Craig
___
http:
Perhaps a 606 head gasket and careful application of Johnny Berryman's favorite
gasket lube?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Hylomar&174;-Universal-Blue-Racing-Formula-Gasket-Dressing-&-Flange-Sealant-Permatex_7740008-P_N2132_T|GRP2132
Mitch.
Rolf wrote:
Yes, remember that new #22 head is really going to cost upwards of $4k
when you throw in valves etc.
Reman #17 or better is the way to go. Personally, just start with the
headgasket and have the head inspected and work from there. While the
head is off you can hand lap the valves as well if ev
If you do that, I call dibs on your old head.
If the existing head is not cracked, why replace it? There are many
14 heads that run hundreds of thousands of miles.
Yes, that is a consideration. I've put a lot of time and $ into
this car and I
certainly would be happy to keep driving it fo
Thanks Mitch.
It's not the lid - caniser is dry.
I'll check the hoses.
On Thu, Mar 3, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
> Hans Neureiter wrote:
>
>> Back to the original topic:
>> I had access to a car lift and replaced the leaking pitman shaft seal.
>> Easy
>> 30 min job with the car up the
Good idea - anything else I should do "while I'm there"?
-Max
From: Mitch Haley
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Fri, March 4, 2011 9:35:29 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Max Dillon wrote:
> I just received the lab results from the
Yes, that is a consideration. I've put a lot of time and $ into this car and I
certainly would be happy to keep driving it for another five or ten years.
I'd really like to find a used head with #17 or later casting and keep the
~$1500 difference in my pocket.
-Max
Alex,
Yes, compare the "before" and "after" videos (first and last).
You may want to try using M1 oil for the next oil change to see if that will
help; Marshall used to say that the noisy lifters would often be quieted by
using M1, but it could take thousands of miles to do the job, and switchi
Max Dillon wrote:
I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium jumped
from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as "Coolant additives are
present". The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it
looks as if pulling the head to replace
On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 6:12 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
> I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium
> jumped
> from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as "Coolant additives
> are
> present". The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so i
On Fri, Mar 4, 2011 at 4:42 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
> Alex, have you watched the videos from the link that Rolf posted? The first
> has
> noise exactly like my car.
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/olefejer/W124300TurboDieselUdskiftToppKning#
>
Thanks Max. In that video, are you referring to the
I just received the lab results from the latest engine oil sample: Sodium
jumped
from 5 ppm to 115 ppm, which the lab tech interpreted as "Coolant additives are
present". The car does require infrequent topping off of the coolant, so it
looks as if pulling the head to replace the head gasket i
Alex, have you watched the videos from the link that Rolf posted? The first
has
noise exactly like my car.
https://picasaweb.google.com/olefejer/W124300TurboDieselUdskiftToppKning#
-Max
From: Alex Chamberlain
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Thu, Marc
EPC says same oil return tube for '95 E300, so I'll try swapping that to see if
it has any affect.
-Max
From: Peter Frederick
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 6:34:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
First, do y
Peter - great idea - yes the o-rings on the oil filter tube are recent, however
you remind me that the tube in this car has some gouges/damage in the top half,
so maybe I need to add "replace oil filter tube" to the list of things to try
before pulling the head. The noise has come and gone with
Good point!
-Max
From: Rich Thomas
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 3:19:49 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix
Just use a 1" heater hose (or some similar size) long enough to go to
the spot and your ear.
--R
On
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