I did calipers on my Ranger (with ABS) a year or so ago and was worried about
getting them bled correctly because of the ABS. I'd been very careful to never
let the MC go dry and when I took it round to my local guy (just down the
street) he said I'd done fine and because the MC had never gone
From my understanding, only a pressure bleeder can completely flush fluid from
the ABS system. Vacuum or gravity will bleed all the rest of the system.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
Better yet, if you have a MityVac, get a
I doubt it, never tried it, simple hose does the trick. I think you must be
moving the pedal to get chalk air out.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
So with a pressure bleeder, can I also bleed a new master cylinder?
Sent from my
There is a small cross member that holds the carrier bearing, which
you have to take down to do the rear flex disk anyway, else the shaft
won't move enough to get it off the flex disk.
When you put it back together, be careful not to get the clamp nut too
tight -- reef down on it and it
Should be get all air out.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
I doubt it, never tried it, simple hose does the trick. I think you
must be moving the pedal to get chalk air out.
___
From an environmental standpoint this technology might be superior as one
doesn't have to deal with disposal of dead hybrid batteries.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2013, at 11:20 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
Sure is superior as far as mpg claims go in city driving. Make it a Diesel
and get better MPG on thr highway too.
Mike
On Mar 3, 2013 8:46 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
From an environmental standpoint this technology might be superior as one
doesn't have to deal with disposal of dead
And we won't have to be driving lame ass Priuses.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 3, 2013, at 9:00 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:
Sure is superior as far as mpg claims go in city driving. Make it a Diesel
and get better MPG on thr highway too.
Mike
On Mar 3, 2013 8:46 AM,
Sounds like someone wishing he had not bought the 85 after all and is not
willing to admit so. I remember when I actually thought the 85 was the
acme of Benz wagons. Now I just want the 85 torque converter for my 83 so
it will come off the line faster.
Mike
On Mar 2, 2013 11:52 PM,
Is plural for that Prii?
Mike
On Mar 3, 2013 9:04 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
And we won't have to be driving lame ass Priuses.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 3, 2013, at 9:00 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:
Sure is superior as far as mpg claims go in city driving. Make
The seal or cup on the piston in the master cylinder closest to the booster.
If it leaks, brake fluid will flow directly into the booster. If the leak has
been present for a while, the brake fluid will be drawn into the booster by
engine vacuum, and out into the vacuum system. That's why I
Ok. Now I get it:)
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 3, 2013, at 9:37 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
The seal or cup on the piston in the master cylinder closest to the
booster. If it leaks, brake fluid will flow directly into the booster. If the
leak has been present for a while, the
I don't have ABS brakes on my SD, but I've been pleased with a budget
pressure bleeder I bought some years ago for about $50. But you can also
make your own for a fraction on that.
It's basically a very small hand-pumped garden sprayer with a brake
reservoir cover on the end of the hose. The
I have a pressure bleeder (Eazi-Bleed) but I don't like doing it, after I had a
problem with a cap the topped off under pressure one time and sprayed brake
fluid all over the place (and we all know how destructive that can be to
painted surfaces.)
That's why I like vacuum bleeding. Plus I can
I did this on the 84 300SD a year or two ago so still some fresh thoughts.
I had the car on stacked 2x12 ramps, as much room under as you can get
will help.
You need to remove the exhaust system first. Support it, it is heavy.
Use new rubber donuts when you put it back (and mine all broke
Oh, and I remembered another thing you might want to think about doing
while you have the car organized -- change the rear diff fluid, maybe
tranny too while you are under there and nasty.
--R
On 3/3/13 3:22 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
I did this on the 84 300SD a year or two ago so still some
My old Snap On pressure bleeder had chains with small turn buckles to
secure the lid from popping off. I suggest a very small ratchet strap for
a home made version.
Mike
On Mar 3, 2013 2:58 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
I don't have ABS brakes on my SD, but I've been pleased
On Sun, 03 Mar 2013 15:27:23 -0500 Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
Oh, and I remembered another thing you might want to think about doing
while you have the car organized -- change the rear diff fluid, maybe
tranny too while you are under there and nasty.
You can
Simply raising one rear wheel off your block a bit with the factory jack
will allow you to rotate the driveshaft to a position where the bolts are
easy to get to. Lower it back down to hold it still.
Don't mess with the exhaust bolts if they look rusty. Simply support it,
remove the rubber
As I recall, only dropping the exhaust is necessary, even if you're doing the
center support. Also, you should not bolt the center support down tight until
the car is on the ground and the suspension is loaded, which can be a bit
tricky to do.
The nuts that come with the flex disk are self
Hmm. Might have to see about rigging something like that up. Unfortunately,
the W140 has a reservoir that is partially under the front plenum, making it
near impossible to get directly on top of the reservoir.
I'm more concerned about the spouse's Mazda 6, as it really needs a fluid
flush.
A pump up garden sprayer, pressure gauge, extra reservoir cap, a threaded
brass fitting to be fitted in a hole in the extra reservoir cap between two
nuts and O-rings, reinforced hose, several hose clamps, a clamp made of two
pieces of one eighth bar stock and two pieces of redi-bolt with nuts
I probably did not know that at the time.
--R
On 3/3/13 4:06 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
The nuts that come with the flex disk are self locking, and do not require
thread locking compound.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to
I have a Motive Products bleeder. It has a screw-on cap that fits the
reservoir on all my Mercedes (also fits the VWs I had, I believe it's a
somewhat standard euro fitting). No way it would really be likely to
pop off at normal pressures.
It does not fit any of our Japanese cars, or our Ford,
Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com writes:
The nuts that come with the flex disk are self locking, and do not
require thread locking compound. The last portion of the threads are
altered slightly to create and interference fit, which prevents the
nuts from coming loose.
Also for this reason you
'Been a bit slow this afternoon; 'may be time for another Sondy Tale:
KULUSUK
By Wilton Strickland
In late August of 1978, while I was Director of Engineering at Sondrestrom,
Air Base, Greenland, I needed to go across Greenland to do a final
inspection of a drainage improvement project at an
Yeah. Bad wire leading to the fuse box from someplace else and there was
damage to the harness out to the light too. I will have to source a bunch of
new wires for the car in future, but was able to bypass the breaks for now.
Found the water pump is leaking now. I am begining to think that I
While you are at it, replace your motor mounts. When the mounts fail, the
angle from the trans to the shaft changes and it puts increased stress on the
flex disks. Makes them fail faster.
clay
On Mar 3, 2013, at 12:22 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
I did this on the 84 300SD a year or two ago so
wow, what have you got against Max?;-)
cheers!
e
On 02/Mar/13 08:06, Rich Thomas wrote:
http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/3642033235.html
--R
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
Some time ago, I was determined to fix the floor heat in my 82 300SD. The
heater box has left and right doors that operate by belcranks at the top of
each pivot shaft. In my case (probably common) both shafts broke between
the actual door and the belcrank but still pivoted freely on the
http://www.godvine.com/Father-of-the-Bride-Gives-the-Most-Touching-Speech-Ever-2831.html?utm_source=newsletterutm_medium=emailutm_campaign=2-13-2013
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
I built a pressure bleeding unit as Gerry described, minus the bar stock
clamp. I used an old MB brake fluid cap that I got from Kaleb. It worked
fine on the ABS systems in 124 and 126 cars at 12 - 15 psi. No problems at
all.
If you're going to use the mity-vac system, remove, clean , and wrap the
With that logic no wonder most here think there is no such thing as a cheap
mercedes.
Mike
On Mar 3, 2013 7:05 PM, clay redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
While you are at it, replace your motor mounts. When the mounts fail, the
angle from the trans to the shaft changes and it puts increased stress
It depends on when the motor mounts were last replaced, if you know. This
is really delayed maintenance, as most are driven till they fail, rether
than being replaced when they should be.
If you can find a used MB that has been properly maintained, it can be a
cheap Mercedes. If you buy one that
Maybe he secretly hopes I'll buy this and then buy his rusty '79 wagon, and
transplant that cars good engine into this one. Or maybe he's testing the
waters, considering that move himself?
I may be able to loan an engine lift to the project...
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87
I've used all the methods - pumping the pedal, mity-vac, and pressure. I'll
be using the pressure...
Ditto. Beware that pumping can destroy the seals in a used master cylinder.
The swept portion inside the cylinder will be pretty smooth but the rest
(beyond the normal piston stroke) can be
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