There are two instruments, the static one and the dynamic one. Dynamic one was
dealer only as a rule, probably too expensive for independent shops. Both work
by sensing the position of the lug on the governor shaft that is also used to
lock the pump.
Peter
No instructions in the manual for "manual" injection pump timing for the 60x
engines, at least not in the one I have.
Injection pump should be locked using the MB tool with engine set a 15 degrees
ATDC to R , and you can use the tool to set the timing more or less
accurately using the tool
The 200, 700, and 900 series cars were essentially indestructable. Ran
forever, the 700 and 900 didn't rust, they were great cars.
All later models (after Ford bought Volvo) are rolling junk. My neighbor
bought an 850 to replace their 245 with 300,000 miles on it, sold it in six
months after
Sadly, we have returned to the age of disposable cars, made of junky parts
intended to be discarded at the end of the car loan.
I've been advised to avoid any Benz after 2006, they suffer from mysterious
computer ailments that can only be fixed by replacement at $2500 each. Always
see a
On a Benz, it does not matter. On my old Volvo with a "cold start" device,
either hot or with the cold start disconnected (it advanced the timing quite a
bit cold).
Peter
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The 126 odo is electronic. make sure you have a signal from the transmission.
Peter
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Windows messes around with the boot files all the time, and as a
result they become corrupted on a fairly regular basis.
Power outages and brown-outs play merry hell with Windows, too, for
reasons I don't understand. Never had an issue with a Mac, any
version, with that.
Only Mac disk
Readily available from the dealer or should be from any Mercedes
specific on-line place.
Check to make sure you didn't short the glow plug wires with one of
the brackets on the intake, I did that on my 300D when I replaced the
head, under the cross-over pipe from the turbo. Didn't get the
80A. They are aluminum, and flex with vibration and heat loading, and
eventually fail.
Get two, put one in the glove box for the next time they fail..
Peter
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Hard to fight back when it's obvious you wrote software to fake the
testing, eh?
There was quite a bit of pushback on the regulations, but this is a
case of wishes overtaking reality, I think. There is severe pressure
to eliminate diesels due to the particulates anyway (and they are bad,
I was always under the impression that the diesel was really just a 4-
bolt main version of the gas engine with a deeper casting on the
bottom end, but I may be wrong.
Rear main wasn't adequate at all, the original was pretty much going
to spin it sooner or later, and sooner was about
That 350 Diesel was dying for a turbocharger and variable injection
timing. In fixed speed use (pumping stations, for example) it's a
real workhorse, but in a car it was a serious dog. Smoky, slow to
accelerate, but fine once you got it going.
Between water damage to the IP from a non
The cheat was to operate the engine so it passed the NOX and
particulate emissions standards ONLY when it was being tested -- when
not being tested, emissions were somewhat higher. The 40X above the
limit is misleading, the limit for NOX is very low, so 40 time that
isn't much.
When the
VW cannot do that without adding a 5 gal tank for the urea, hence the
failure to have a mechanical fix.
No place to put the tank.
Peter
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The emissions standards for diesel cars in the US is probably
impossible to meet for small engines, and VW chose to cheat rather
than use known technology (BlueTec) to avoid using large amounts of
urea solution to manage the nitrogen oxides. Probably can not afford
to develop the cars
Eh, I'd not bother with all that, just get a set of Euro headlights.
Not too bad if you get the Chinese ones, although Hella's are better
if you can find them.
Beat the h..l out of the DOT originals and don't pull any more
current. If I keep either of the W124s much longer I will get a
FLAPS I think. Been a while.
Peter
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Yes, don't use the OEM sockets, buy a replacement, they are both
common and cheap. They are much heavier than the OEM and the wires
are as well.
Did that on the "new" 300D, had been replaced but twisted together and
not soldered, so they got hot and burned the wires again.
The factory
Gotta do the brakes on the Golf this week, same deal on the rear
brakes (it's the screw type parking brake that causes the issue, but
you don't have the drum brake parking brake to deal with).
Not really looking forward to it, but it's gotta be done.
First major thing on the Golf since I
Lift pump is shot, it has a leather seal, and it's leaking air in.
Replace with the new style "thumb" pump, it's internally sealed with o-
rings and will not leak air.
The old one will leak air even if screwed down when the seal fails.
Pretty sure it failed last time the filters were
No hand primer.
While smoke means you have fuel, it's not igniting.
The fuse in the relay is a strip fuse, and they are prone to
cracking. Check for continuity across the fuse. relay will operate
normally with a bad fuse but the GP get no juice. This may or may not
set the diagnostics
All W124's have the same valve setup, but the later ones have dual
controls and have two valves instead of one. None of them can be
repaired to the best of my knowledge.
I've replaced two.
Peter
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It means you have a glow plug burned out. Ditto for flashing during
glow or after.
If the #1 is burned out, sometimes the glow plug lamp does not come on
at all.
Peter
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Door gasket is the usual suspect when the footwell fills up, but I
would suspect the window gasket in your case. Get a new one, re-
intalling with an old seal will just give you a bigger leak.
Peter
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Indiana has been backpedaling as fast as they can since the 1870's
when they granted judges the ability to issue divorces rather than
having them passed by the legislature and signed into law
(individually, that is, every divorce).
Scared the pants off them.
I know, I've lived here most
Until and unless someone comes up with non-silicon wafer based
semiconductor based transistors, we are at the end of the road. No
more speed, no more cores, just about the only thing that will change
is the details of the designs and software.
Apple is doing the one thing I've always
Replace the IP pressure valve holder seals. A job I need to do on the
300d, it causes knocking at idle, rough running, and hard starts.
Also check the suction lines and heater lines on the fuel system up to
the IP, and the o-ring on the suction line to the lift pump - -
intermittent air
Same benefits as for any other synthetic vs Dino oil:
Far less viscosity change with temperature.
Order of magnitude better lubrication by any measure you want to use.
Much longer life.
Adheres to metals, so no dry startups.
Peter
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Pretty easy, acutally.
Check for voltage at the low pressure switch and a ground on one side
-- the PBCU grounds the signal from the Klima relay to switch the
compressor on.
If you have voltage and a ground, the relay is bad (usually cracked
solder on the actual relay) OR the low
There are rumors that ATF in any version will eat the seals out of the
PS pump.
My "new" 300D lost one a few years back, and the fluid was pink.
Peter
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Fake news would be imaginary things reported as fact, such as the
Satanic child abuse ring headquartered at a pizza place in DC.
Most of it appears to me to come from Russia.
Peter
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Commerical quantities of hydrogen usually come from natural gas these
days. Might eventually be produced by solar powered hydrolysis, but
not currently.
I always fall down laughing when people talk about "ecological"
electric or hydrogen powered cars. Electricity comes from magic,
It doesn't dilute much in ground water.
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Reminds me of black flies in Canada. One year it was very cold all
summer, and we had them til October.
Mosquitos are a pest -- screens turn black at night when they try to
get at out, for instance -- but I'm allergic to black flies and get
welts the size of golf balls when they bite.
There are several things going here:
Pipelines are safer than moving that sludge in tanker cars -- there
have been two very serious accidents already, one of which pretty much
burned out a Canadian town. Bakken crude is much to thick to ship
unadulterated, so it's mixed with solvent to
#1 is low, but if there was no heat shield in there, it may come back
when you run it a while with one -- should get the carbon out of the
rings.
Can't be any worse than my 300 D -- I'm afraid to check the
compression.
Peter
___
No seal/heat shield is going to give you lousy compression.
So will putting the pre-chamber from a #14 head into a #17 or #22 --
they don't seal tight at the seal rim at the top.
370 is fine, 270 and it won't start.
Peter
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Anti-lock yellow light came on in the 300D the other day, changed the
master cylinder today because I was having to pump up the brakes -- it
has 400,000 miles or so on it. Used the one from the wrecked car.
Anyway, the anti-lock light comes on when the car moves, so I assume I
have a bad
My buddy had a Citation back in graduate school -- rusted like crazy.
Biggest problems were the standard GM "cheap it till it hurts and take
off 10%" stuff, bad plastic, instrument clusters that fell apart, poor
quality parts that fail too soon.
Not a bad design as cars go, just executed
Aluminum powder (not oxide) with iron oxide added for body, in
nitrocelluose lacquer. Thermite with guncotton, so to speak. Very,
very, very flammable, and should never have been used without
grounding all the linen panels together (they were sewn on with cotton
thread, I think).
The
It was indeed the fabric, and the nitrocellulose/aluminum powder/iron
oxide dope (thermite with a fuse, so to speak). The Deutchland was
immediately grounded and the entire covering removed and replaced
before she flew again (on the South American route) for this very
reason.
Needless
I've done two.
Clean the compressor very well, the last thing you want is grit in the
seals.
Not a bad job.
Compressor has to come out, so replace all the o-rings including the
four under the top plate.
The new seal will leak a little until it runs in completely, but I've
never had an
Ford or Dodge truck, Chevy will require major modifications.
Front oil sump vs rear oil sump
Peter
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Only get what you need, the PAG absorbs water like crazy, and with
R214a makes hydrofluoric acid.
120 mL in the compressor if I remember correctly.
You do NOT need to vent the system to replace the clutch or coil on
the compressor if it's the same one in the 87 or 88.
Peter
Very quiet and low milage makes me think late injection timing! Any
smoke under load at high speed?
Peter
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The gunk is coked oil and soot from the EGR. Synthetic oil does not
coke like dino oil, so if the owner has been using synthetic, the
intake will be clean.
Peter
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I have also had the cable break at the sunroof, which makes for
strange operation.
If the sunroof is level with the roof and not tilted, the cable end
may have come adrift. If it's sitting crooked, the lift angles are
broken.
Peter
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Middle of the manifold? Overpressure switch.
Peter
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Broken lift angles is the main suspect here.
Not a huge job, but a pain.
Peter
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They cannot be repaired so far as I know, they are sonic welded
together or something. Usually the seat goes bad on the valve, or it
fails to open properly.
Peter
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You cannot re-glue the existing fabric, the rubber backing has gone
bad and will continue to shed until you have nothing but cloth left.
This is a common issue, foam back headliners are standard equipment in
most of the industry now, with either hardboard or molded plastic
backing.
Get
No, the collapse in sales was due to lower gasoline prices. The
service writer at the local dealer was chewing the fat with my buddy
Hans a few years back, and he said after 1984 you couldn't get a
prospective buyer to even get in a diesel, let alone drive it,
including previous diesel
The real issue here is that it's probably impossible to manufacture a
diesel engine that meets the nitrogen oxide emission requirements.
This has been a bone of contention between the US EPA and European EPA
equivalents. NOX is bad, for sure, but it cannot be eliminated from
diesel
I would never allow internet control of anything in my house. NONE of
the electronics are made in the USA, and who knows what's programmed
into them.
Peter
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Those have been the places mine have leaked suddenly.
Also look for an oily spot on the condenser -- road debris damage can
put a hole in it.
Peter
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Three places for leaks on these systems you need to check:
Between compressor and hose manifold fitting -- usually the high side
0-ring erodes through.
Manifold to hose set on the compressor, one one screw holding them on,
tends to leak when the o-rings get tired.
Hot side o-ring between
Corruption is not ideological, it's corruption.
If the people in charge of something steal, it's not due to their
avowed political stance, it's because they are thieves.
Right wing totalitarian regiemes are at least as likely as socialist
ones to be filled with people lining their pockets,
Classic symptoms of a clogged fuel filter -- you loose power at speed
first! Change the filters before getting too concerned, and get some
algicide in the tank pronto.
The second 300D had this issue, the PO was using some custom mix of
bio, diesel, and waste oil. Fuel gauge acted funny
Search for T10 replacement bulbs.
You want a current limited power supply for LEDs so the voltage drops
with over-draw, else you tend to burn out the LEDs I think -- that
data is out there too, I've seen it but don't remember where. Sorta
above my head, I'm a biologist not an electrical
They do make 15 watt replacements, but they are not common yet. I
need to do "surgery" on my 1956 fixtures in the bathrooms as well.
Did two of the ones in the garage this year, a PITA but not too bad.
Two bad ballasts, so no point in replacing bulbs, and so far they are
great after six
I could use some too, it's pretty wood for making straight razor
scales and other small things.
Probably can't come and cut them down though
Peter
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Most replacements simply require the fixture to be re-wired for 120V
without the ballast. The PS is built into the lamps.
Peter
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The early chinese ones were quite iffy. Now that the major
manufacturers are making them, In expect the quality to improve.
That said, one of the nasty "corn cob" ones I bought a few years ago
is still working -- strobes a bit once in a while, but still good
after about 5 years. It's
Drain is above the center of the tranny tunnel, quite a pain to get
to. I think the center console has to come out to get to it.
Peter
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They often stick and get stretched when you unscrew the back. A very
light coating of silicone grease helps the gasket stay in the slot
while you screw the back down.
I have a Seiko I have never gotten to seal well, grease or not.
Peter
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Know issue, defective weld and bad metal.
Should be fixable.
I like the older W124s better, didn't rust out so bad there.
210s also have this issue, quite a few had the mount break off while
driving.
Peter
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Clutches do wear out, and can be replaced in the car without venting
the system.
I don't remember the correct gap, maybe 0.060"? Not big anyway, can
be adjusted by removing shims from under the center of the clutch when
you take it off. No point in doing that if it's badly worn though.
I would replace the belt and check the condition of the clutch, easy
enough to spin it with the engine off and check for binding in the
compressor or faulty bearings, etc.
Also verify that the gap at the clutch is correct.
You don't have much slippage unless the KLIMA has been replaced with
Aren't stents a wonderful thing?
Me, I'm lucky -- ended up in the hospital last year on Easter Sunday
with severe congestive heart failure (EF 10-15%, for those of you who
know what that is). Long, slow recovery, but was released by the
cardiologist back to my primary care doctor this
If Timex had used standard plates and screws instead of rivets to hold the movements together so they could be serviced, they would have been the best watches made at that price point. I have an automatic with a broken mainspring, which would not be a big deal on any other watch, and it's not
I did exactly that. Once I learned how to sharpen screwdrivers
properly I can usually get a watch apart and back together without
breaking anything.
Bent up hairsprings are the very worst, followed closely by replacing
staffs on balances and replacing jewels.
Peter
Be very very careful if you attempt to move the regulator lever -- and
don't confuse it with the lever that adjusts the "beat" -- centering
the balance and hairspring on the fork.
It is VERY easy to stick something into the balance spring while
attmepting to nudge the lever the very tiny
Wear it to bed. And do not mess about with the innards, you are much
more likely to make it worse than better without a timing machine --
in my experience Seiko regulators are a pain to move small amounts.
16-17 sec/day is a bit much, but not a shock for a watch that may have
been sitting
Depending on the model, Seikos tend to be fairly thick. The price you
pay for eternal operation, I guess, gotta have room for that big rotor
that does the work of winding the watch.
Thin automatics are scarce, expensive, and usually less reliable than
a Seiko 5. Buren Microrotor comes to
The pocket watch was probably a Hamilton 299B -- my father had one he
bought when he got his first good job. 499B if it had a sweep second
hand. I still need to re-staff my father's, my brother the genius was
carrying it at work in a machine shop on a string and the string broke
-- a
I believe military issue in the mid sixties was Hamilton, but if not
probably a Bulova, both top manufactures in the US.
I suspect also autowind models rather than electronic or electric due
to sealing issues and humidity in Viet Nam, although that would
account for failures in the jungle.
Wilton:
I don't think you are the only one, I've heard of at least one Lt.
who bought one for combat duty in the mid 60's on the suggestion of a
chief gunnery officer when his Army issue Hamilton died repeatedly in
the jungle. Still had it a couple years ago, never serviced, still
Well, a nice Mercedes was $6000 in the 70's too, not $70,000.
I figure a proper service takes an hour if you know what you are
doing, and entails the use of some fairly expensive tooling (proper
ultrasonic or "basket" cleaner, timing machine, expensive screwdrivers
and possibly others), so
Max:
A complete service (polish or replace crystal, disassemble, clean,
assemble, oil) is gonna be at least $100. Less than that, they are
just rinsing it and re-lubricating (or worse, spraying with "one step"
cleaner/lube). Cheap service is worse than none at all, I've gotten a
number
The only difficulty with opening windows to take advantage of "natural
AC" is humidity control. In this neck of the woods, opening the
windows at night will saturate the house, with the result that the RH
will be very high in the morning -- think damp sheets and condensation
on counters
If you want to replace the band, look for an original Seiko
replacement, they fit better and if set properly (so they don't flop
around) will last forever.
$50 for one in running condition with a good crystal is a decent
price. I try to avoid paying more than $35, but I can clean and oil
These watches go from less than ten dollars to over 150 on eBay
depending on age, condition, and running status. I've gotten several
that were "broken" because they do not hand wind (again, depending on
model) and have to be shaken to get them going.
They are very robust watches, most of
Check the neck of the radiator carefully, they are notorious for
cracking, particularly if there was ever "green" coolant in the car.
You don't want to replace a hose just to have the radiator nipple blow
off the next time you have the engine under load.
It happened to my sister in her
I use AdBlock, it's nice.
Most annoying thing about many of the ads is that they load VERY
slowly, and when my connection is bad (most of the time) they can lock
up the browser.
Peter
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Low side pressure is determined by evaporator temperature and
expansion valve opening -- it's possible you have cooler (and hence
denser) high side liquid with the fans on, which would result in more
gas by weight for a given expansion valve opening. More gas, same
temp has higher
I have not replaced any. not had any driveshaft vibration not due to
bad center joints either.
Peter
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Seized starter is one failure mode -- happened to me. Solenoid would
work (you could hear it engage) but starter was locked up.
Peter
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Use Truck and Turbo Diesel. It meets all the requirements, we've been
using it for a long, long time.
Peter
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Note that you MUST use approved oil in VW diesels, especially those
with unit injectors, as they have flat tappets. If you don't, the cam
lobes wear, greatly reducing power.
I suspect they are high ZDDP oils.
This has been an issue with the performance crowd for a while, some
older
Probably a golden skink, very common here in wet springs. I get a few
in the house every year -- they sneak in the door when you are going
in and out, will wriggle through loose fitting basement doors, or into
any other cracks. They love to hide in the gap between the house and
outside
Is that an expansion valve or an orifice tube/accumulator system? If
it's an orifice tube (a common system these days, cycles the clutch by
low side pressure) you will need to flush the whole system out if the
screen is plugged, replace the trashed compressor (where all the crap
came
I know what you mean Wilton -- I've been a bit twitchy since I got t-
boned by a guy running a red light. Takes me forever to cross
intersections and I'm always diving for the ditch when people wander
across the center line (at least six or seven times a day it seems).
I think I know how
Change because they are 22 and the guy who did the hard work of
setting things up is ancient at 30, yeah, BTDT.
"new and improved" doesn't mean screwing with the colors and doing
thing differently just because YOU want to pee higher on the post..
Peter
I'm still using 10.6, would still be running my MDD if not for the
fact web browsing was getting too difficult (and is still a pain
sometimes on the MacPro -- probably old enough now that not all
functions are supported).
Apple made very good hardware in those days. Premium prices, but
Could be, but more likely it's a bad KLIMA relay if you have one (I
think it's in the master relay, sadly).
If you have lots of "cycling" with noise I'd check the clutch, too --
if it's slipping you will get exactly you symptoms. Poor cooling when
it's slipping and not producing the
Fuel heater on the 603 is in the water line for the heater core. Two
metal lines run out of the adapter down part way to the fuel
thermostat on the block behind the IP.
Never had one leak water into the fuel, but those lines can leak fuel
out and air in, causing all sorts of running
Here's the skinny on 60x engines and pressure in the cooling system:
They seal well, so if it's a bit warmer than when you capped it, there
can be a bit of pressure. However, both a cracked head or a leaking
gasket will result in cold pressure since you are leaking combustion
gasses into
If it's still pressurized cold you have a blown head gasket or cracked
head.
Peter
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I have the processors but haven't gotten around to doing the upgrade.
the MacPro is so much faster than my old B or MDD I don't really
feel a strong need to boost performance much.
Now if I could just get decent high speed internet at a rational price
I'd be all set
Peter
Burp it before starting:
Squeeze upper radiator hose flat, then pinch vent line from radiator
to coolant tank shut and release upper hose. This will suck coolant
out of the bottom hose on the tank.
Refill tank, repeat squeezing the hose, crimping the vent line shut,
and releasing the
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