It was indeed the column lock that failed, not the tumbler.
Tom Hanson confirmed that the tumblers are NLA, although he did say "There
might be some of these back next year, but I can't be sure yet.", so there's
hope.
I would have ordered a replacement tumbler out of an abundance of caution,
Maybe take the tumbler to a locksmith for a professional opinion, they can
inspect and replace any springs or wafers that are questionable.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
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Waytago! After the cylinter and key were out, did the cylinder turn
freely? (Indicating the problem was actually in the steering lock
itself) In 40+ years, I've never heard of a steering lock failure.
They are normally not lubricated. Tom can confirm(or refute) that.
David Bruckmann
Excellent! Well played!
-D
> On Jul 16, 2019, at 4:09 PM, David Bruckmann via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Victory!
>
> For reference, unlike later models, the W116 doesn't require the key to be in
> a particular position to remove the electrical connector from the ignition
> lock. By loosening
Bravo!
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
On July 16, 2019 4:09:05 PM EDT, David Bruckmann via Mercedes
wrote:
>Victory!
>
>For reference, unlike later models, the W116 doesn't require the key to
>be in a particular position to remove the electrical connector from the
>ignition lock. By loosening the
I'm not sure a new cylinder is usually required. I don't really see how they
go "bad". I'd bet many were replaced which were merely cruddy inside. A good
locksmith should be able to clean/refurbish a lock cylinder. Might have to
replace some of the springs, I often stretched 'em getting them
A fellow I supplied with a bunch of my spare R107 parts for his rebuild of a
1972 SL had to unbunggle many bits. One was the ignition from a w124. I had a
quartet of the obsolete ignition switches he took with.
clay
> On Jul 15, 2019, at 1:10 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
On my '95 cabriolet, I cut apart the lock housing with a Dremel tool, because a
thief had pretty much destroyed the ignition lock and no way to get the key to
turn.
Once the dash parts around the steering column were removed, and the steering
column loosened so it dropped down to grant more
On 15/07/2019 3:45 PM, Clay Monroe via Mercedes wrote:
I was able to get the key to do one last turn by flushing the lock with
Tri-Flow and running the jiggly sander on the key for five to ten minutes over
a four day period. It finally got one last good turn. At that point you want
to
The SD had that issue, sort of. There is the end of the tumbler that fits into
a sliding switch mechanism once you turn the key. The SD had somehow buggered
that up, so that it would not disengage the steering lock and allow the key to
turn. I had to get the tumbler out to see if a flat head
I was able to get the key to do one last turn by flushing the lock with
Tri-Flow and running the jiggly sander on the key for five to ten minutes over
a four day period. It finally got one last good turn. At that point you want
to remove the tumbler and make haste to your most trusted
I believe that's also the case on the 116. Sigh.
On 15 July 2019, Max wrote:
>
>On a 124 car, one must be able to turn the key to position 1 (FSM section
>46-8110) in order to remove the electrical switch from the back of the
>ignition.
>
>Maybe a 116 is different?
On a 124 car, one must be able to turn the key to position 1 (FSM section
46-8110) in order to remove the electrical switch from the back of the
ignition.
Maybe a 116 is different?
-
Max
Charleston SC
On Mon, Jul 15, 2019 at 1:49 PM Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Maybe it's 3 bolts/screws, it's been so long... And for me, never on a 116.
But 116 and 107 share
a lot of things, and I have done this on a 107.
-- Jim
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I've not been into a 116. On the 123, it is 3 small screws. It probably
is the 2 bolts on the 116 as Jim sez.
Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote on 7/15/19 12:48 PM:
It almost feels like the mechanism that prevents you from activating the
starter twice without turning the key to off first.
And
> It almost feels like the mechanism that prevents you from activating the
> starter twice without turning the key to off first.
And it may well be that, which is part of the electrical switch. It's an easy
test: two 8mm bolts release
the switch from the back of the lock assembly. Remove it
I don't think your problem can be the lock. The wafers retract or they don't.
When they retract they either move enough to turn the lock or they don't,
theres no way for the lock to open partially. I think your lock cylinder is
working correctly and something beyond it is binding up...
-Curt
Incidentally, to play the video linked in the email, at least on my Mac, I need
to download the file and then change the filename extension from .obj to .mp4
and it plays just fine...
On 7/15/19, David Bruckmann wrote:
>
>I have attached a video to this posting...
>
>D.
>
>-- next
On Mon, 15 Jul 2019 03:39:54 -0500 fmiser via Mercedes
wrote:
> > David wrote:
>
> > Sorry, I gave a rather confusing account. There are 3 positions:
> >
> > 1 - Off and steering lock
> > 2 - Accessories
> > 3 - Run
> >
> > The key turns about halfway to the first detent (position 2),
> > but
On Mon, 15 Jul 2019 00:01:21 -0400 Max Dillon via Mercedes
wrote:
> I don't remember, what position does the key need to be for tumbler
> removal? I thought it was the first, which means your [you're] ok.
Here is a picture of the W123 lock.
Craig
>
> On July 14, 2019 11:44:45 PM EDT,
Ugh.
On 7/15/19, fmiser wrote:
>
> David wrote:
>>
>> Sorry, I gave a rather confusing account. There are 3 positions:
>>
>> 1 - Off and steering lock
>> 2 - Accessories
>> 3 - Run
>>
>> The key turns about halfway to the first detent (position 2),
>> but not nearly far enough to push in the
normally that is "wiggle the steering wheel to get the bind off the
steering lock", but David said the steering was unlocked. I'd guess it
is still a wafer hung up.
fmiser via Mercedes wrote on 7/15/19 3:39 AM:
David wrote:
Sorry, I gave a rather confusing account. There are 3 positions:
1
> David wrote:
> Sorry, I gave a rather confusing account. There are 3 positions:
>
> 1 - Off and steering lock
> 2 - Accessories
> 3 - Run
>
> The key turns about halfway to the first detent (position 2),
> but not nearly far enough to push in the wire and extricate the
> cylinder.
If it
Sorry, I gave a rather confusing account. There are 3 positions:
1 - Off and steering lock
2 - Accessories
3 - Run
The key turns about halfway to the first detent (position 2), but not nearly
far enough to push in the wire and extricate the cylinder.
D.
On 7/15/19, Max Dillon wrote:
>
>I
I don't remember, what position does the key need to be for tumbler removal? I
thought it was the first, which means your ok.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
On July 14, 2019 11:44:45 PM EDT, David Bruckmann via Mercedes
wrote:
>The key will no longer turn much past the first detent on my 1979
The key will no longer turn much past the first detent on my 1979 300SD W116.
Alas, this situation arose without warning near the end of a long day trip.
Fortunately the steering is unlocked if the key will turn at all, so I managed
to get the car started by disconnecting the vacuum shutoff
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