I go to the Menards in Grand Forks ND.
On 30/04/2014 5:58 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
Menards is in Canadia?
Or is this from your forays south of the border?
Dan former Menards shopper
On Apr 30, 2014, at 6:35 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
On 30/04/2014 5:28 PM, Fmiser wrote:
Rich Thomas wrote:
Deck screws if you must
Curt wrote:
I've been using Scorpion brand square drive deck screws, way
better than trying to drive phillips head...
I much prefer Torx over square, hex, or phillips when dealing with
high torque. Much more of the torque goes into turning
On 30/04/2014 5:28 PM, Fmiser wrote:
Rich Thomas wrote:
Deck screws if you must
Curt wrote:
I've been using Scorpion brand square drive deck screws, way
better than trying to drive phillips head...
I much prefer Torx over square, hex, or phillips when dealing with
high torque. Much more of
Menards is in Canadia?
Or is this from your forays south of the border?
Dan former Menards shopper
On Apr 30, 2014, at 6:35 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
On 30/04/2014 5:28 PM, Fmiser wrote:
Rich Thomas wrote:
Deck screws if you must
Curt wrote:
I've been using
Deck screws if you must
--R
On 4/28/14 7:29 PM, Larry Turner wrote:
My apologies -- I meant to say Dry Wall Screws - Duh.. Sorry
Larry
On 4/28/2014 4:09 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
What is a dry wall stud?
Are we talking about something different than a basic 2X4?
On 28/04/2014 2:42
Now that part makes sense!
Sometimes the building inspectors won't even let you use screws. Nails
have more resistence to shear if I understand right. Unless you buy the
right screws. Simpson Strong Tie folks have special screws intended for
use with some of their fasteners for example.
A
And then you need to buy the right ones if you are using treated lumber
so that the chemical does not eat the screw.
On 29/04/2014 8:21 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
Deck screws if you must
--R
On 4/28/14 7:29 PM, Larry Turner wrote:
My apologies -- I meant to say Dry Wall Screws - Duh..
Funny you mention that. The builders place I go to for my stuff told me
that the special screws were no better than the regular
galvanized/coated deck screws with the new formulation of the treating
treatment stuff. They don't even carry the special screws. Stainless
steel if you must then,
I guess it depends on who you talk to.
I have been using the ceramic coated screws with treated lumber.
Not sure the stainless ones are any better.
Actual hot dipped galvanized would be nice but harder to come by.
The gold anodized ones rust pretty quickly so I don't think I would use
them
Wouldn't plain steel nails corrode even more than coated screws?
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
I guess it depends on who you talk to.
I have been using the ceramic coated screws with treated lumber.
Not sure the stainless ones are any better.
The shear load rating for a #8 nail is 300 lbs. Old dry timbers are very
prone to cracking and spliting. I would not use screws for that reason but
instead, use nails with a good pattern to avoid splitting the grain of the
old stud. Also I would use the best glue and clamps to achieve as perfect
I believe in a belt and suspenders, and screws over nails, too!
Dan
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 29, 2014, at 11:50 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
Now that part makes sense!
Sometimes the building inspectors won't even let you use screws. Nails have
more resistence to shear
I keep a box of 3 square drive deck screws on the shelf as a one size fits
all thing. I love them for just about any rough lumber project.
Dan
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 29, 2014, at 11:52 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
And then you need to buy the right ones if you are using
If it's old, dry, or brittle I drill a pilot hole. Nothing worse than running a
screw down only to hear the wood cracking as you do so. With the quick swap
drill attachments it's easy and quick to do.
Dan
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 29, 2014, at 12:50 PM, G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com wrote:
The
I agree in regard to the pre-drilled holes.
Another choice might be to through-bolt.
When one is doing it for one's self one can often do much more than a
trades person would do. They sort of have to do things quickly to earn a
reasonable income without bankrupting the property owner.
We as the
I've been using Scorpion brand square drive deck screws, way better than
trying to drive phillips head...
-Curt
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2014 09:21:47 -0400
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Building question
Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Building question
Message-ID: 535ffc50.8060...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I agree in regard to the pre-drilled holes.
Another choice might be to through-bolt.
When one is doing it for one's self one can
BTW, don't make the mistake of using dry wall studs. You probably know
all of this but they are much too brittle.
Good Luck -
LarryT
On 4/9/2013 10:14 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
I have a cottage. Really it's a tiny thing that resembles a large shack! I've
been doing some sill
Everywhere I have swung a hammer has required treated lumber for sill plates.
Dan
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 28, 2014, at 3:42 PM, Larry Turner l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
BTW, don't make the mistake of using dry wall studs. You probably know all
of this but they are much too brittle.
With a moisture barrier between concrete sill or floor or whatever you
have, and treated plates. 2x4s with replacing the bottom section and
sistering up a few feet will work, you can put some construction
adhesive on the splice and sister too, then a few nails to hold it all
together. Ain't
I believe what you describe is what is known as a balloon framed house,
which is no longer legal to build.
Balloon framing used the same stud from sill plate to roof, with the second
floor attached to the stud mid point [about] . As the building ages, second
floor joists sag or go soft, the
: [MBZ] Building question
BTW, don't make the mistake of using dry wall studs. You probably know
all of this but they are much too brittle.
Good Luck -
LarryT
On 4/9/2013 10:14 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
I have a cottage. Really it's a tiny thing that resembles a large
shack! I've
What is a dry wall stud?
Are we talking about something different than a basic 2X4?
On 28/04/2014 2:42 PM, Larry Turner wrote:
BTW, don't make the mistake of using dry wall studs. You probably
know all of this but they are much too brittle.
Good Luck -
LarryT
Cut 92 5/8 long, I believe, to make up a total of 96 (8 feet) for a standard
8 foot wall section using a double top plate.
Don't know the metric equivalent, sorry.
Dan
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 28, 2014, at 4:09 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
What is a dry wall stud?
Are
Yes, that is a normal stud length but why would it be brittle?
On 28/04/2014 4:37 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
Cut 92 5/8 long, I believe, to make up a total of 96 (8 feet) for a standard
8 foot wall section using a double top plate.
Don't know the metric equivalent, sorry.
Dan
Sent from my iPad
Those studs are in compression, mostly, and if sistered to another stud,
and fastened to an inner or outer wall in some fashion, you have no
issues with brittle.
--R
On 4/28/14 5:41 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Yes, that is a normal stud length but why would it be brittle?
On 28/04/2014 4:37
it didn't occur to me to get a building permit until I'd taken the wall
off...
-Curt
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2014 15:47:56 -0400
From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Building question
Message-ID: 4103686e-3f4a-42af-9927-f818ff2e3
Curt Raymond wrote:
Yeahbut you've only ever apparently worked in the city. Remember Dimitri said it was a
cottage that later got amended to shack.
Hell when we had the addition put on the camp dad went to get a building permit
and had the following conversation:
Building inspector: Its a
My apologies -- I meant to say Dry Wall Screws - Duh.. Sorry
Larry
On 4/28/2014 4:09 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
What is a dry wall stud?
Are we talking about something different than a basic 2X4?
On 28/04/2014 2:42 PM, Larry Turner wrote:
BTW, don't make the mistake of using dry wall
What you have described is known here as a balloon framed structure,
which BTW is not allowed by building code anywhere I know of if, as you
describe, the studs are two story.
The fix you propose is less than an perfect fix, but likely your only
option. I would suggest you clean, glue and
On 09/04/2013 9:14 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
I have a cottage. Really it's a tiny thing that resembles a large shack! I've
been doing some sill repairs but some of the studs sitting on the rotted sill have rotted
as well. I was thinking about cutting out the rotted bottom section,
Yes it's a two story! It's balloon framed. The upper plate extends up to a
certain point as the roof starts to angle- it's gambrel style.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 11, 2013, at 12:52 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
What you have described is known here as a balloon framed
Lots of old homes built this way; surely they do not expect the owner to
bulldoze the house and rebuild for such a repair that is fairly common.
On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 9:19 PM, G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com wrote:
What you have described is known here as a balloon framed structure,
which BTW is
Yes this was common practice for many years. Use treated lumber, which is
relatively cheap, so a little overbuilding is fairly inexpensive compared
to the risk being averted. Good Luck
On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 11:05 AM, Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.comwrote:
Lots of old homes built this
It would be worthwhile to add some fire-blocking in the walls if you
have the sheetrock open. Balloon framing allows flames to climb right
up to the attic whereas the newer platform framing stops it (at least
for awhile).
--R
On 4/10/13 12:05 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
Lots of old homes
Thanks all for the insightful input. I ended up taking the splice and scab
approach. I used wood glue and plenty of screws on both sides and PT lumber.
Just below the ceiling there is a one by oriented in an upright podition which
sits in a notched recess in the stud. The second story floor
I have a cottage. Really it's a tiny thing that resembles a large shack! I've
been doing some sill repairs but some of the studs sitting on the rotted sill
have rotted as well. I was thinking about cutting out the rotted bottom
section, splicing in a new piece of stud and then sistering it all
/buckle) in any direction
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: dsereta...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 10:14 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Building question
I have a cottage. Really it's a tiny thing that resembles a large shack!
I've
What you have described is known here as a balloon framed structure,
which BTW is not allowed by building code anywhere I know of if, as you
describe, the studs are two story.
The fix you propose is less than an perfect fix, but likely your only
option. I would suggest you clean, glue and clamp
dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
I've been doing some sill repairs but some of the
studs sitting on the rotted sill have rotted as well. I was
thinking about cutting out the rotted bottom section,
splicing in a new piece of stud and then sistering it all up
with another 2x4. Does the sistering
I have a cottage. Really it's a tiny thing that resembles a large
shack! I've been doing some sill repairs but some of the studs
sitting on the rotted sill have rotted as well. I was thinking about
cutting out the rotted bottom section, splicing in a new piece of
stud and then sistering it
Fmiser wrote:
I would use glue (carpenters wood glue or construction adhesive)
and decking screws and try to get 2ft onto good wood. Most of
what a stud is doing is carrying a compression load, so if you
have new wood from the bottom sill to the good part of the old
stud, really all you need to
Fmiser wrote:
I would use glue (carpenters wood glue or construction
adhesive) and decking screws and try to get 2ft onto good
wood. Most of what a stud is doing is carrying a compression
load, so if you have new wood from the bottom sill to the
good part of the old stud, really all
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