can i still return those socks i bought from you in 1972?
On Sat, Jun 7, 2014 at 9:18 PM, Marshall Field wrote:
> I would be more suspect of excessive bearing wear in the bearings that
> "cup" the armature. Once worn, flat spots and low spots result and can
> cause the kind of intermittent per
On Sat, 7 Jun 2014 21:27:14 -0700 Jim Cathey
wrote:
> Exactly analogous to putting your car up on jack stands and flooring
> it in high gear, and then telling all your friends that your econobox
> can go 180 MPH, because that's what the speedometer read at redline.
Excellent analogy!
Thanks, Ji
I disconnected the last wiring junction before the starter solenoid, 11
volts measured when the key was turned. I don't think the NSS is the
issue.
Open-circuit voltage measurements tell you _nothing_ significant.
Exactly analogous to putting your car up on jack stands and flooring
it in high
On Sat, 7 Jun 2014 23:03:43 -0400 Meade Dillon
wrote:
> What do you think may be the problem?
>
> How do you think I should try to isolate the problem?
You may have already solved the problem by disconnecting and
reconnecting plugs in various places (including the Neutral Safety
Switch), as you
This is a Bosch "re-manufactured" starter, only 2 years / 30k miles old. I
don't think it has worn out yet.
I just had FLAPS test the starter, it failed the first test (solenoid) and
then passed the next five or so tests.
Solenoid seems to be the issue, and I cannot find any source for a
replace
What do you think may be the problem?
How do you think I should try to isolate the problem?
On Sat, Jun 7, 2014 at 7:55 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> That will prove nothing. The failure mechanism of wet
> things is to develop increased contact resistance due
> to corrosion. That puts heat and vo
I disconnected the last wiring junction before the starter solenoid, 11
volts measured when the key was turned. I don't think the NSS is the issue.
Now the solenoid wants to work every time.
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jun 7, 2014 6:37 PM, "Meade Dillon" wrote:
> Hmmm, I couldn't get to the
I would be more suspect of excessive bearing wear in the bearings that
"cup" the armature. Once worn, flat spots and low spots result and can
cause the kind of intermittent performance you are seeing
Good standard practice is to read/record current draw of the starter during
cranking over miles an
On Sat, 7 Jun 2014 18:34:15 -0400 Meade Dillon
wrote:
> Craig, it cranks the starter instantly, every time, when I short the
> solenoid "start" terminal to the battery hot terminal.
>
> Looking at the wiring diagram, path seems to be from battery to switch
> to starter lock-out relay t
I guess I could disconnect the ignition signal at the
solenoid, see if I still only get ~9.5 volts?
That will prove nothing. The failure mechanism of wet
things is to develop increased contact resistance due
to corrosion. That puts heat and voltage drop in places
where it should not be, and pr
Hmmm, I couldn't get to the contactors inside the solenoid to check/clean,
and didn't test the coil(s). May have to check that if I can't solve the
low voltage. I guess I could disconnect the ignition signal at the
solenoid, see if I still only get ~9.5 volts?
-Max
On Sat, Jun 7, 2014 at 6:05
Craig, it cranks the starter instantly, every time, when I short the
solenoid "start" terminal to the battery hot terminal.
However, today the no-crank condition has only presented on the first few
attempts, now no matter what the test, it cranks every time.
So, I think the starter ground path is
Might be a short in the solenoid? That would drop your voltage. Not
sure how the thing getting wet (unless it is still wet) would cause that.
--R
On 6/7/14 5:59 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:
Ok, starter solenoid is only getting about 9.5 volts.
I added an additional ground path, used jumper cable
On Sat, 7 Jun 2014 17:59:29 -0400 Meade Dillon
wrote:
> Ok, starter solenoid is only getting about 9.5 volts.
>
> I added an additional ground path, used jumper cable from starter body
> to battery negative, slight improvement, about a tenth of a volt.
>
> So, could a bad neutral safety switch
Ok, starter solenoid is only getting about 9.5 volts.
I added an additional ground path, used jumper cable from starter body to
battery negative, slight improvement, about a tenth of a volt.
So, could a bad neutral safety switch cause this?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
_
Thanks, more testing tomorrow.
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jun 6, 2014 5:39 PM, "Scott Ritchey" wrote:
>
> Even after the NSS quits working in park it will often still work in
> neutral. That's usually my first test. Replacing the NSS is easy but
> dirty. If you head sound from the starter s
enz.com] On Behalf Of Meade
> Dillon
> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 8:42 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Deep water adventure, now dead starter?
>
> ...
>
> Testing the NSS: Would a voltage test at the "S" terminal on the solenoid
> (which
On Fri, 6 Jun 2014 13:07:05 -0400 Meade Dillon
wrote:
> Visual and pull-test only, didn't check for voltage drop. Can do that
> when I test the NSS.
>
> I'm also wondering about starter ground to engine. Starter tested fine
> out of the car, with jumper cables directly from the battery. Spun
Visual and pull-test only, didn't check for voltage drop. Can do that when
I test the NSS.
I'm also wondering about starter ground to engine. Starter tested fine out
of the car, with jumper cables directly from the battery. Spun it up like
four times, it never missed a beat. Motor stayed nice
Did you check/clean the frame to engine ground cable?
Gerry
On 6/6/2014 8:41 AM, Meade Dillon wrote:
Still not fixed.
Got it all back together, "bench" tested (actually it was on the cement
driveway under my foot) and it worked several times in a row just fine.
Runs much cooler now too!
Instal
Thanks Jim!
On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 9:06 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
> Testing the NSS: Would a voltage test at the "S" terminal on the solenoid
>>
>
> Voltage under load should be sufficient. You could also use
> a jumper wire, and see if hitting S with battery voltage resulted
> in 100% reliability
Testing the NSS: Would a voltage test at the "S" terminal on the
solenoid
Voltage under load should be sufficient. You could also use
a jumper wire, and see if hitting S with battery voltage resulted
in 100% reliability of crankage.
-- Jim
___
http://www.
Still not fixed.
Got it all back together, "bench" tested (actually it was on the cement
driveway under my foot) and it worked several times in a row just fine.
Runs much cooler now too!
Installed and attempted to start numerous times, and about 1/3 of the time
the solenoid fails to engage. I ca
I'd just polish it up, and apply a light oil, LPS #2 perhaps. Some 400 grit
or so sandpaper on the armature might be in order before the DeOxit as well.
On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 8:43 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:
> After a little thought, I think no grease, just polish it up. Thoughts?
>
> Max Dillon,
After a little thought, I think no grease, just polish it up. Thoughts?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jun 5, 2014 9:35 PM, "Meade Dillon" wrote:
> Solenoid plunger and barrel quite corroded. Would a dielectric grease be
> appropriate?
>
> Max Dillon,
> Charleston SC
>
_
Solenoid plunger and barrel quite corroded. Would a dielectric grease be
appropriate?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
___
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FLAPS tested starter after I removed it. Owner/manager is a Benz guy, he
thinks a good cleaning should restore dependable operation, showed me what
he'd do. The starter failed the first test, but then passed the next
four. The end with the brushes was pretty hot, not normal, he thinks it
has cor
On Thu, 5 Jun 2014 19:34:47 -0400 Meade Dillon
wrote:
> FLAPS tested alternator and battery, they passed.
>
> All electrical connections tight, clean.
>
> Voltage at starter drops to about 10.3 volts when the starter does
> finally turn. Doesn't change (from about 11.7 volts) when the key is
>
FLAPS tested alternator and battery, they passed.
All electrical connections tight, clean.
Voltage at starter drops to about 10.3 volts when the starter does finally
turn. Doesn't change (from about 11.7 volts) when the key is turned but
the starter doesn't.
Voltage drop from battery to starter
Good points Randy. I would like to take the car to FLAPS and have the
battery and alternator tested.
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jun 4, 2014 5:57 PM, "Randy Bennell" wrote:
>
> On 04/06/2014 4:49 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:
>>
>> I'm sure it's dry by now, I've been driving the car everyday since
>
On 04/06/2014 4:49 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:
I'm sure it's dry by now, I've been driving the car everyday since
Saturday, today is the first day the starter acted up.
I'm wondering if some flotsam is jamming the solenoid?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
I have a hard time believing that the water kil
I'm sure it's dry by now, I've been driving the car everyday since
Saturday, today is the first day the starter acted up.
I'm wondering if some flotsam is jamming the solenoid?
Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
On Jun 4, 2014 5:23 PM, "Rich Thomas"
wrote:
>
> Yeah, it probably got soaked. Maybe you co
Yeah, it probably got soaked. Maybe you could dry it out with a dose of
alcohol and air?
-_R
On 6/4/14 4:43 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:
Today my starter has failed to turn for two out of six starts. The first
time I heard nothing over the noise of the HVAC fan, second time I shut off
the fan an
Today my starter has failed to turn for two out of six starts. The first
time I heard nothing over the noise of the HVAC fan, second time I shut off
the fan and could clearly hear a "thunk" but no turnee. Cycling the key
did eventually convince the starter to turn.
This last Saturday, when I met
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