Subject: Re: [MBZ] Still starter question
On Sep 22, 2017, fmiser wrote:
Nope. High resistance in the starter will _decrease_ the current
draw through the braid. Les current, less heat.
>> Tin man sez:
>>
>> Still seems odd.
> Rick wrote:
>
> Post pictures of
On Sep 22, 2017, fmiser wrote:
Nope. High resistance in the starter will _decrease_ the current
draw through the braid. Les current, less heat.
>> Tin man sez:
>>
>> Still seems odd.
> Rick wrote:
>
> Post pictures of the failed starter.
> Very high internal resistance in the starter w
Fine wire in braid means lots of surface area. Yes,it's more flexible, but
it's also much more prone to corrosion damage.
-- Jim
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So a short in the starter would produce a high current draw, what about a
frozen armature with otherwise OK windings?
On Thu, Sep 21, 2017 at 7:59 PM, fmiser via Mercedes
wrote:
> > > Tin man sez:
> > >
> > > Still seems odd.
>
> > Rick wrote:
> >
> > Post pictures of the failed starter.
> > Ve
> > Tin man sez:
> >
> > Still seems odd.
> Rick wrote:
>
> Post pictures of the failed starter.
> Very high internal resistance in the starter windings could have
> caused the cable to melt.
Nope. High resistance in the starter will _decrease_ the current
draw through the braid. Les current
Manfred wrote:
> I have been thinking about this and if the wire got hot enough to burn and
> crumble then the rubber grommets would be melted or burned. If they aren't
> then it pretty much has to be corrosion of the wire itself. Is it even
> copper? See how a magnet reacts to it. In any case why
I have been thinking about this and if the wire got hot enough to
burn and crumble then the rubber grommets would be melted or
burned. If they aren't then it pretty much has to be corrosion of
the wire itself. Is it even copper? See how a magnet reacts to
it. In any case why worry, just put a n
RB wrote:
> Did you pull it apart and have a look inside?
> If it is just a piece of braided wire that has failed, you shouldn't need a
> whole new starter.
> A rebuild may not be as good as what you already have.
Son bought remanufactured starter and they need core. He tried to
tear it down but
> > Mountain Man wrote:
> >
> > The car was operating fine. Drove it to get gas and then it
> > did not start
> >
> > If the motor froze, could that cause the braid wire between
> > the motor and solenoid to disintegrate?
Maybe. But it would probably have to be rather compromised
already. A fr
Tin man sez:
>> Still seems odd.
Post pictures of the failed starter.
Very high internal resistance in the starter windings could have caused the
cable to melt. A short to ground would cause the cable to melt. Without visible
evidence I (we) can speculate all day long about why it failed
On 21/09/2017 11:30 AM, Mountain Man via Mercedes wrote:
Basically dead. 3-pedal car started using push to get home. The
braid is between solenoid and starter and is from positive battery
terminal through the solenoid.
Fred and others say rust. That works but the thing worked well up
until it d
RB wrote:
> Did it crank or click or was it basically dead?
Basically dead. 3-pedal car started using push to get home. The
braid is between solenoid and starter and is from positive battery
terminal through the solenoid.
Fred and others say rust. That works but the thing worked well up
until
I must have missed the original post on this.
I see that you went to the gas station and then it would not start but I
don't see what the symptoms were.
Did it crank or click or was it basically dead?
You mention a braided cable that appeared to be corroded so I assume
that you believe that to
Discussion List
Cc: Mountain Man
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Still starter question
Rick wrote:
> Just have the starter changed and be done with it.
Totally happening.
However, if there is something else in the system, another starter
change may be coming soon?
And, the car started fine just 15-minutes earl
Rick wrote:
> Just have the starter changed and be done with it.
Totally happening.
However, if there is something else in the system, another starter
change may be coming soon?
And, the car started fine just 15-minutes earlier and when starter
removed the braid disintegrated. That hardly seems l
Tin man inquires:
>Is there suggestion why that braid >disintegrated?
It's a decade old..
It has been a rust belt car for ten years...
There was a plastic shield over it from the factory that disappeared...
Someone cranked it like a diesel that ran out of fuel (no start condition)...
Just hav
My Jetta starter quit last fall at work, wouldn't click or anything. Since it
was a three pedal car my class gave it a shove and I was off. It was a
replacement starter, I removed, cleaned all the connections good, reinstalled
and it worked again. Another example of why I won't go back to the s
Scott wrote:
> The normal setup has a big negative wire from the battery negative to the
> engine block and a big positive wire from the battery positive to the
> starter solenoid. Then there is a web strap or other strap from the engine
> block to the chassis to support all the electronics in the
The normal setup has a big negative wire from the battery negative to the
engine block and a big positive wire from the battery positive to the
starter solenoid. Then there is a web strap or other strap from the engine
block to the chassis to support all the electronics in the car. If that
strap is
The car was operating fine. Drove it to get gas and then it did not
start. Push started the 3-pedal Toyota and made it home.
If the motor froze, could that cause the braid wire between the motor
and solenoid to disintegrate? Perhaps corrosion over the past decade
took its toll on the braided wi
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