Ok, so I drained and flushed all the Prestone and red crap out tonight then put
in the citric acid and water and drove it again. It seemed to be running ok
and like it had before, nothing higher than 95 on the interstate, so I decided
to drive it a bit farther on the interstatethat was a
The radiator shop will tell you to junk it -- it cannot be taken apart
and put back together.
Sorry.
I've tried with a Volvo rad with a broken hose nipple. No dice, cannot
be sealed back up.
Peter
it can if they have the right equipment, very few shops do though.
Peter Frederick wrote:
The radiator shop will tell you to junk it -- it cannot be taken apart
and put back together.
Sorry.
I've tried with a Volvo rad with a broken hose nipple. No dice, cannot
be sealed back up.
Peter
it can if they have the right equipment, very few shops do though.
I have a shop nearby in Lansing, Illinois that re-cored a BMW radiator for
me. Amongst the stuff in the shop was an MG radiator that they had re-cored
to a four row to set in front of a V8. That was a dozen or so years
Wow - I had that done back in 1969! MGA with a 215 CID Old's Al block V8.
Amongst the stuff in the shop was an MG radiator that they had re-cored
to a four row to set in front of a V8. That was a dozen or so years ago.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right
No, they cannot -- the aluminum will not crimp back down on the plastic
tanks. BTDT, can never seal the leaks.
Also, it's impossible to dissolve the clogging corrosion with anything
that will leave the aluminum behind.
New rad time.
Peter
No, they cannot -- the aluminum will not crimp back down on the plastic
tanks. BTDT, can never seal the leaks.
Ugh, I thought maybe the tanks were brass, like cars from back in the day.
Seems I remember my radiator shop making up a real radiator for an S-10 or
two. Them plastic/aluminum
Removed the monovalve insert tonight, it was clogged with the red-sandlike
radiator/block/head sealer stuff from the PPO. So, I installed one I replaced
in my SD (before I discovered that the coil was bad) and suddenly I have heat
in the car. So, I took it on a drive tonight, about 5 miles on
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Removed the monovalve insert tonight, it was clogged with the red-sandlike
radiator/block/head sealer stuff from the PPO. So, I installed one I
replaced in my SD (before I discovered that the coil was bad) and suddenly I
have heat in the car. So, I took it on a drive
Drove it for about 30 minutes tonight, most of the time the temp was right
around 100, but toward the end I had to kick the heat on to cool it down from
110+. It is finally blowing heat from the vents and the bottom hose at the
radiator is getting hot to the touch. Maybe the flush is working
Sorry about the incorrect time.
I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and creating
a gap for constant flow.
I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, then I
dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the neighborhood in
Do you still have the silicone oil? I might take a shipment of that
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 16:36:58 -0600, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage. Lower
hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT. I am also not getting very
much heat in
why do it the hard way? Take the radiator out, and let a radiator shop
clean it and verify good flow.
I suspect that your t-stat mod might be causing more problem than
help, if it can't close the bypass port (don't know whether the bent
part prevents that or not).
On 10/29/06, Luther Gulseth
Not everyone has $'s like you :) I'm thinking of making an adapter so I
can apply regulated air pressure to the radiator and blow the clogged stuff
out. Our water here doesn't have very high pressure.something about being
rural and on top of a hill.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:56:32
How are you filling it?
Are you pumping the upper rad hose and crimping the small line to the
reservoir? If not, you only have about a gallon in a two gallon system
and it's gonna run hot!
To purge, squeeze the upper radiator hose flat, then crimp the small
line to the reservoir, then let
I fill in the top radiator hose until it trickles out the radiator neck. I
also have a Prestone flush tee installed where the block2heater core line is by
the oil filter. I've run the car with the water hose attached there to flush
the system before adding the flush.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006
Well, it did cost $55.00 to have the 107 radiator cleaned last time --
but that was small change compared to the rest of the engine
rebuilding project, and cheap insurance.
I have adopted the fill from the upper radiator hose process, and it
has resulted in fewer troublesome bubbles to burp.
I
Luther, won't work.
The crud clogging the rad is aluminum phosphate corrosion, most likely
(unless you are really lucky and it's only carbonate and will clean out
LONG soaking in citric acid). Aluminum phosphate deposits are pretty
much impossible to remove when accessable, let along inside
Do the hose shuffle to be sure.
Peter
Crack the head? I'm fairly certain that's already done due to the vapor that
is constantly flowing from an open pressure cap.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 20:48:14 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Luther, won't work.
The crud clogging the rad is aluminum phosphate corrosion, most
Serious underfilling will also give you steam, since the head isn't
full yet -- a much better situation.
Pressure cold is a better indication of cracks in the head.
Peter
it's deffinately NOT steam, to light and wispy for steam.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:06:37 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Serious underfilling will also give you steam, since the head isn't
full yet -- a much better situation.
Pressure cold is a better indication of cracks in
Do you still have the silicone oil? I might take a shipment of
that
I parceled it all out, and only have the same amount left as I shipped
to each customer. In other words, I still have my share, which is
enough
to fool with many clutches. Given my collection of aging beasts, I
think
PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Luther Gulseth
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 10:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] overheating SDL
it's deffinately NOT steam, to light and wispy for steam.
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 21:06:37 -0600, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 22:44:06 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Do you still have the silicone oil? I might take a shipment of
that
It's not hard to come by, but you have to buy a gallon of it and
shipping just about doubles the price.
So, where does one come by it?
And for
I bought 12,500 centistoke oil from thechemistrystore.com
Closest they had to the 6-7k oil that is supposedly what
you really need. Maybe.
-- Jim
Yesterday and today I've worked on the SDL trying to figure out why it is
overheating. Yesterday, I first checked to see if the fan clutch was engaging,
it's not.well, the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage.
Lower hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT. I am also not
the radiator isn't hot enough to cause the clutch to engage. Lower
hose is cool to the touch, top is HOT. I am also not getting very
much heat in the
Your radiator is clogged, perhaps also the heater core. First step
would be
to flush the system, then try an acid flush. But be prepared
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 17:19:48 -0600 Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Could the cold bottom/hot top problem be a bad water pump and how would
I check that?
It's possible, though there's not much to go wrong with a water pump.
You'll have to pull the pump to inspect the impeller. Given
Yeah, gritty crud is the wood fiber type leak fixer. Usually fixes
the engine, too by clogging.
Flush out what you can, and run water backwards through the heater core
and rad. The worst part of this is that the grit is coated with (or
consists of) low MP plastic, the theory being that it
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