That is correct. They now cost $47.00.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 12:59 AM, Barry Stark barryst...@verizon.netwrote:
Andrew -
I seem to remember Marshall talking about the newer gold one being an
improved version that was really just a stronger spring inside to give you
more leeway on the
Look here.
http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/rackbolt/
Does it look like a large-ish bolt with a locking hex nut on the end
of
it, parallel to the ground?
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Brilliant! How do these things ever wear out to the point they need to be
replaced?
On Mon, Aug 10, 2009 at 2:28 AM, Barry Stark barryst...@verizon.net wrote:
Look here.
http://articles.mbz.org/engine/diesel/rackbolt/
Does it look like a large-ish bolt with a locking hex nut on
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Brilliant! How do these things ever wear out to the point they need to be
replaced?
I don't know if the spring takes a set, or if it's just nicer to have the
updated version with a longer/stronger spring.
Mitch.
___
So at what point would I recide to replace the screw rather than continuing
to adjust it?
On Mon, Aug 10, 2009 at 12:33 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Brilliant! How do these things ever wear out to the point they need to be
replaced?
I don't know if the
Andrew -
I seem to remember Marshall talking about the newer gold one being an
improved version that was really just a stronger spring inside to give you
more leeway on the adjustment. Likely a different spring rate as well.
Barry
Brilliant! How do these things ever wear out to the point
I adjust mine with the engine running.
The rack dampener is just a bandaid fix, uneven idle is a sign that it
is time to have the IP on the bench. Of course that costs money and
anyone can adjust a rack dampener :D
-Rolf
harry watkins wrote:
From Mac, Aug, 2008
The rack damper bolt is
Does it look like a large-ish bolt with a locking hex nut on the end of
it, parallel to the ground?
On Sun, Aug 9, 2009 at 7:30 AM, Rolf Martin-Hoster r...@winmutt.com wrote:
I adjust mine with the engine running.
The rack dampener is just a bandaid fix, uneven idle is a sign that it is
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Does it look like a large-ish bolt with a locking hex nut on the end of
it, parallel to the ground?
Largish? I thought it had a 10mm head on it.
Mitch.
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andrew wrote:
...W123 turbodiesel to cure 'the shakes at idle.
Ludmila Grobtken?
mao
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From Barry, 9/11/2006
John -
Screw it in just until you feel it hit the rack linkage inside the IP.
Understand that if it is screwed in too far the engine may not start. Go
ahead and start the engine and screw the damper bolt in very slowly until
the engine just settles down. do not turn it in
From Mac, Aug, 2008
The rack damper bolt is only part of the equation with respect to getting
the idle 'right', or as right as it can be.
First, the adjustment has to be done with the engine as hot as you can get
it, so if you are able to work in a place near a stretch of highway all the
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