> The rebuilt native 87 300td half shaft failed within 500 miles as
> predicted and the diff tried to leave the subframe, which was twisted up in
> the process.
>
> I have procured a v8 subframe, 2.65 210mm diff from a 91 500sl, v8
> driveshaft complete, and a 4 bolt flange for the transmission
Sounds like FAG is one to add to the 'good' list...
Thanks for the info -
LarryT
On 07/27/2018 11:14 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
On Fri, 27 Jul 2018 19:33:51 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes
wrote:
Have never heard of FAG, or most others.
It's short for Fischer's Automatische
On Fri, 27 Jul 2018 19:33:51 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes
wrote:
> >
> > Have never heard of FAG, or most others.
>
>
> It's short for Fischer's Automatische Gussstahlkugelfabrik,
> obviously. :-) Trademarked since 1905.
>
> Fischer was first to invent a machine for making high-quality
>
> Have never heard of FAG, or most others.
It's short for Fischer's Automatische Gussstahlkugelfabrik, obviously. :-)
Trademarked since 1905.
Fischer was first to invent a machine for making high-quality steel spheres
in volume, in 1883.
-- Jim
___
Thanks Mitch! I'll probably go with the Timken, National or SKF. No
need to cheap out. Course I don't want to go with OEM MB which is
probably triple the cost of Timken or SKF.
TIA -
Larry
On 07/27/2018 3:41 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
I just took a look at Rock Auto.
SKF or Timken.
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It's kind of like Red Bull. If it wasn't expensive, you wouldn't know you
were drinking a premium beverage :-)
On Fri, Jul 27, 2018, 12:41 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I just took a look at Rock Auto.
> HooFlungDung are under $25, one of them is $13.
> Timken and
I just took a look at Rock Auto.
HooFlungDung are under $25, one of them is $13.
Timken and National are $54.
SKF are $85.
Mitch.
> On July 27, 2018 at 3:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> Seems like any bearing on that list would be indistinguishable from the
> others in
Seems like any bearing on that list would be indistinguishable from the
others in terms of real world performance. Is that list based upon anything
objective? A Timken bearing is a pretty good bearing in my experience.
On Fri, Jul 27, 2018, 10:24 AM Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
Larry asks:
>When I get to the point when I'm ready to buy a >replacement bearing kit,
>which brand is the >highest quality?
In my opinion, (and others) here is the pecking order of bearing quality.
1. FAG
2. SKF
3. NSK
4. NTN
5. Timken
Aisin should probably be in there somewhere.
Stay
Hi Ya'll,
When I get to the point when I'm ready to buy a replacement bearing kit,
which brand is the highest quality? I've seen FAG, Aftermarket (there's
a creative name), and others. Have never heard of FAG, or most others.
TIA!
LarryT
On 07/26/2018 8:48 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
Thanks Peter
On 07/26/2018 8:48 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
On July 26, 2018 at 8:33 PM Peter Frederick via Mercedes
wrote:
The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a
pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer).
The other links unbolt,
> On July 26, 2018 at 8:33 PM Peter Frederick via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a
> pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer).
>
> The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the
>
The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a
pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer).
The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the
wheel carrier must be at ride height when you tighten the bolts back up. No
need to
no, this is the 5 link rear suspension. No ball joints, except one link
has small ball joints. the 5 suspension links are what need to be
tightened with the wheel in driving position (loaded) all other
fasteners are tightened as normal. I reuse all fasteners that are not
obviously bad.
Thanks Mitch -
I'll have my suspension shop check the alignment and also check the
torque on the fasteners...
Sincerely,
Larry
On 07/25/2018 10:56 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
Removing the wheel carrier should involve some ball joints, a brake caliper and
a parking brake cable.
Removing the wheel carrier should involve some ball joints, a brake caliper and
a parking brake cable. Suspension position shouldn't matter when tightening
ball joint stud nuts.
If you loosen any bolts in control arm bushings, those should be tightened with
the car parked on a level surface,
Hey Curley,
That's really good to know! Thanks for that!
Now my plans can start to come together. I'm probably worrying too
much about this, but the thought of wailing away on the axle shaft to
pop it loose bothers me. it'll probably go easy and even if the
cir-clip is damaged I can use
I suspect that it will be fine. When the rear subframe mounts get dead
rubber, you will know it. The car get squirrelly going over RR tracks,
but is normal most of the time. Until it gets squirrelly going over
tracks, I'd not worry about it, and even thern you probably have 1-5
years before
Got a question regarding my rusted connection over the rear suspension:
I'm thinking that if I go through with replacing the wheel bearing
carrier, maybe I can just ignore the rusty connection and drive? After
all, very few similar problems have been found but granted it's not a
problem to
I couldn't find my old 1980s JC Whitney ball joint press so I bought a new
Gearwrench one for the ball joints on the ML. The Gearwrench was better
quality, and about the same $$ that I paid for the other one 30 years ago.
Hi Mitch!
That doesn't sound like a fun way to spend a weekend! BTW, what you
described is very much what I saw the mechanics doing in the videos -
they were using a foreign language I didn't recognize but it may have
been German. The sound was pretty poor.
They also used a shop made
We pull the carrier and use a press. Much faster, and I've never been able to
get a hub out with a slide hammer. In my case they had been in there for 28
years.
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> On July 21, 2018 at 1:22 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Perhaps the Harbor Freight Bearing tools might make this a driveway
> job? BTW, I also watch a couple of videos showing slide hammers and
> similar being used (w/a sledge hammer!) that looked like the mechanics
> doing
Thanks,
BTW, I was browsing YouTube videos and came across this R Whl Brg R
for a BMW - after watching I thought it was very much like the W124.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4PK1jXhppE
Some of the fasteners are different and it doesn't have the 5 point rear
deal like a 124 but the axle
You can check them in place -- jack up the car so you can reach the axle and
rotate the shaft. If either end moves in relation to the joint, it's bad.
They can go bad like my Golf though, and grind. You'd probably have to pull it
to see if it's the wheel bearing or the axle joint unless it's
Based on your description of the noises I am inclined to be confident
the outer bearing is bad - we get a loud growling noise starting at
45mph or so and getting worse and speed increases. But I don't recall
any vibrations on accel / decel or clunks as you describe.
The CV joint is a question
A bad bearing can damage the wheel carrier, or at least "grow" enough to be
very difficult to get out -- had that happen a time or two.
Basically the bearing is a double row ball bearing with one side free (so it
can be assembled) -- the axle nut holds it together.
The nub is pressed into the
Thanks Peter!
I need to look at the WSM again - I'm not understanding the hub
completely. Or I could pull a wheel and take a look - might be worth
the time because I find the idea of replacing the carrier w/a used one
interesting. Then again, I'm not sure I would gain anything by using a
The bearing is pressed into the wheel carrier, and then the hub is pressed into
the center of the bearing. Don't want you to end up with half of what you
need, eh? Three parts there.
The axle does indeed fit on a spline through the hub. It also holds the
bearing together, so the nut needs
Hi Peter, just to be sure I understand what you are saying when you
wrote, "not just the hub that presses into the bearing." - I thought
the bearing presses into the hub, not the other way around? Then the
axle slides thru the center of the bearing..., no?
I think it is easy for me to
Max's comment about ASR helps because I don't have ASR - only ABS - so
hopefully that's not going to be a concern. But it looks like I should
try to find parts from cars close in manufacture to mine to minimize
problems and to state my 91 300D is non ASR.
I've been looking at Car-Part.com
Thanks Max - very helpful!
On 07/17/2018 8:40 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
Only the cars with ASR got 4 channel ABS. Most 124 are 3 channel, with third
sensor at input to differential.
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I can't answer that, I'd have to look at the EPC to figure that out.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
On July 17, 2018 8:45:08 PM EDT, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
wrote:
>
>> On July 17, 2018 at 8:40 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Only the cars with ASR got 4 channel
> On July 17, 2018 at 8:40 PM Max Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> Only the cars with ASR got 4 channel ABS. Most 124 are 3 channel, with
> third sensor at input to differential.
Then why does Car-Part's exchange list 1995 rear knuckles as different from
1986-1994?
Mitch.
Only the cars with ASR got 4 channel ABS. Most 124 are 3 channel, with third
sensor at input to differential.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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yes, the gasser and Diesel rear axle carrier are the same. Wagons have
a heavier duty bearing, I was told.
Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
Wow! They have a hub for a 300E for only $70 which I assume would be
the same as the one I need for my 300D?
This is the 1st time I have contacted
> On July 17, 2018 at 8:29 AM Larry Turner via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> Hmmm, so a much newer part might fit?
When I look at Car-part.com, for the rear knuckle they give me parts ranging
from a 1984 W201 to 1994 R129/W124/W202. The newest right rear knuckles
available in the US that
Hmmm, so a much newer part might fit? And I could (maybe) use more
modern links? That'll take some extensive research to do that, but I
agree completely that MB designed the W124 with future fit in mind.
Having said that, the rear wheel carrier (which I have been calling it)
is pretty
Well, my reference books have failed me. But if I inspect the high
pressure lines going to/from the ABS controller under the hood it might
tell me something, right? If I have tubing going to each wheel rather
than 1 for the differential shaft I will know the answer I suspect. I
recall the
The axle in the wagon is larger diameter than the sedan, but I think that's the
only difference.
And I suspect it's the same part in use today, MB is good at designing properly
and then using common parts for a very long time. I think the rear suspension
is exactly the same on current
Thanks for the questions, I think it does have a sensor at each hub but
will have to confirm that... Not sure I woud consider my 91 to be a
early 124 - maybe more a mid year?
I have the Tech Data book I can check. But I'll find the answer ;-)
LarryT
On 07/17/2018 7:14 AM, Mitch Haley via
Did the early W124 have W201 style 3 channel ABS with the ABS sensor on the
differential input shaft?
And does your 1991 have a sensor on each hub?
Mitch.
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Hi Peter,
Thanks for that! BTW, I have found they are not consistent in the way
they name their parts. But I will be sure to ask that is it the Wheel
Carrier and try to get a photo of the part before I buy. I'm going to
check EPC to see if there are any differences over the W124 years - I
Make sure it's the complete wheel carrier, not just the hub that presses into
the bearing.
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Wow! They have a hub for a 300E for only $70 which I assume would be
the same as the one I need for my 300D?
This is the 1st time I have contacted Car-Part.com but it won't be the
last.
Thanks again.
LarryT
91 300D 2.5T
On 07/14/2018 10:45 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
car-part.com
Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
Hi Guys, for a change things are looking up. I tried to start the
subject 300D and found the battery was dead and refused to take a
charge. It was bought in 2014 and had almost 1000 CCA's but dead is
dead. So I went into my garage (slowly as
On Fri, 13 Jul 2018 20:21:17 -0400 Larry Turner via Mercedes
wrote:
> Anyone have one or know where I might find a hub? I have been putting
> out feelers to recyclers looking for hubs and only got one specific
> reply. Besides, I like options. ;-)
Check out http://car-part.com/
Craig
Correct.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
On July 13, 2018 8:34:17 PM EDT, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
wrote:
>That’s a 124?
>
>--FT
>
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That’s a 124?
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Jul 13, 2018, at 8:21 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys, for a change things are looking up. I tried to start the subject
> 300D and found the battery was dead and refused to take a charge. It was
> bought in 2014 and had almost
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