Or drive it until the reserve light comes on and drain the thank into a can.
It is not that bad, but I won't do it in good clothes!
G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
Or, you could do what I've now done quite a number of times. De-fuel the
tank using a cheap electrical fuel pump plumbed into the fuel
Some years ago my Indy made a mistake while doing delivery valve seals that
made the job take inordinately long and cost $1000. The next time I had a car
that needed them I did them myself, cost around $20.If something is going to be
screwed up I might as well do it myself...
Curt
Sent from
Or, you could do what I've now done quite a number of times. De-fuel the
tank using a cheap electrical fuel pump plumbed into the fuel line at the
engine compartment, with the pump exit line into jerry cans to collect the
fuel.
Battery charger used as a power supply for the pump. Takes about 20
Time for the Indy.
Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI
On May 12, 2018 6:27 PM, "Dimitri via Mercedes"
wrote:
This sounds like a job that I don’t want to do!
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 12, 2018, at 4:45 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>
This sounds like a job that I don’t want to do!
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 12, 2018, at 4:45 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Actually, there are three hoses there. Fuel, return and vent. All should be
> replaced while you are there. I can't remember
Actually, there are three hoses there. Fuel, return and vent. All
should be replaced while you are there. I can't remember if the 123
has the vent there, or if that is just 124.
Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
Most likely. There is a short, bigger on one end line between the tank and
Bingo! Time for a dissel bath. it will kill off bugs too!
Dimitri via Mercedes wrote:
Today I uncovered my (formerly Jon’s) ‘85 300D that has been sitting since the
fall and noticed a fuel leak under the differential. Without getting dirty and
greasy crawling under the car, what could this
That would be my guess.
Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI
On May 11, 2018 9:04 PM, "Dimitri via Mercedes"
wrote:
> Today I uncovered my (formerly Jon’s) ‘85 300D that has been sitting since
> the fall and noticed a fuel leak under the differential. Without getting
> dirty and
Most likely. There is a short, bigger on one end line between the tank and the
steel lines.
Peter
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Vacuum leak. Plug the circuit under the driver floormat one at a
time to isolate and identify where the leak is. You can leave a golf
tee in for a plug to close the leaking circuit until the repair is
made.
If I try to shut off the engine and the passenger door is unlocked,
the engine
]
On Behalf Of Peter Merle
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 1:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??
Engine was bored to 91.5mm ( Yes it is allowed check EPC and Mercedes OEM
piston A6170301917 ) was used. HEad was redone using only OEM parts ,
including new
If the rings are bad, you will have tremendous blowby. If you don't,
likely the valves are bad, much cheaper.
Peter
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To
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??
Engine was bored to 91.5mm ( Yes it is allowed check EPC and Mercedes
OEM
piston A6170301917 ) was used. HEad was redone using only OEM parts ,
including new guides all round . Oil consumption has increased from
Valve adjustments done on schedule? Did the breakin with dino oil? Did
you have the cylinders bored and then how fine was the final hone job on
them?
Manfred
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 18:35:12 +0200
From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] W123 300D loosing compression??
@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D losing compression??
It's all goobered up. You gotta go drive it flat out for like 2000
miles up hill, a Gumball Rally kind of thing.
--R
Peter Merle wrote:
My W123 300D seems to be slowly deteriorating. Oil consumption
If you don't have increased oil consuption, it's definitely the
valves, but if the valve guides were not installed and sized
correctly, you now have worn over-size guides, and the valve seats,
especially on the exhaust valves, are shot, causing low compression.
The only way to tell is to do
Engine was bored to 91.5mm ( Yes it is allowed check EPC and Mercedes OEM
piston A6170301917 ) was used. HEad was redone using only OEM parts ,
including new guides all round . Oil consumption has increased from and
initial 0.2 to approx 0.5 l /1000 km. Engineering shop was one that
services the
Check valve clearance, then run a few hundred km and check again --
if they close up, you nee to have them set loose and recheck each
few hundred km until they quit closing up, then set to spec. Carbon
builds up on the valve stems and will prevent them from fully closing
if the clearance
It seems the next step would be to check compression.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Merle
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 1:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ
my turbo has like 400k miles on it. changing the oil helps. they aren't
life and death expensive if they do go. it's a silly concern. if you find
a nice car at a nice price, buy it, without given consideration to whether
it is turbo or not
On Fri, Feb 15, 2008 at 1:09 PM, LarryT [EMAIL
LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Looking for a '83-'85 300D - need to know of any weak areas to worry
about - things specific to late W123 300Ds (I'm familiar with W123
240Ds)? One owner of an '85 300D said his is not Turbocharged - he
said it was a weak spot- True?
The turbochargers are
Looking for a '83-'85 300D - need to know of any weak areas to
worry about - things specific to late W123 300Ds (I'm familiar
with W123 240Ds)?One owner of an '85 300D said his is not
Turbocharged - he said it was a weak spot- True?
After driving my '91 300D T don't know if I want a
LarryT wrote:
owner of an '85 300D said his is not Turbocharged - he said it was a weak
spot- True?
If it was sold by MBUSA from 1982-1993, it left the factory with a
turbocharger.
A 1985 california car did have some weirdness about it, go to bimby and price
an air filter.
What's happening to the 240D Larry?
Ed
300E
On 15/02/2008, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Looking for a '83-'85 300D - need to know of any weak areas to worry about
-
things specific to late W123 300Ds (I'm familiar with W123 240Ds)?One
owner of an '85 300D said his is not Turbocharged
My 115 300Ds with auto trannys had significantly more 'get up and go'
than the 240D manual tranny 123. I don't remember hearing that the
123 300d, turbo or not, had a weak point!
I'd personally rather a 124 than any of the above however ---
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of
If his 85 was not turbo, it was a euro model. The turbo was not a weak
spot on those cars. In fact, I have seen far more worn out 240d's than
I have 300D turbo engines.
LarryT wrote:
Looking for a '83-'85 300D - need to know of any weak areas to worry about -
things specific to late W123
PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D
What's happening to the 240D Larry?
Ed
300E
On 15/02/2008, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Looking for a '83-'85 300D - need to know of any weak areas to worry
! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.
- Original Message -
From: E M [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 300D
What's happening to the 240D Larry?
Ed
It seems than at Fri, 15 Feb 2008 13:09:52 -0500, LarryT wrote:
Looking for a '83-'85 300D - need to know of any weak areas to
worry about - things specific to late W123 300Ds (I'm familiar
with W123 240Ds)?
Not much different.
Back door power window regulator frame is prone to bending and
So, does anyone know whether is it possible to remove and pop in a
replacement clock into the gauge without a lot of hassle?
Because soldering is required to swap the clock itself, and
the 99%+ repair of a dead clock is a trivial soldering job,
once you're in a position to swap it you're
Do you know if it is possible to just clean the inner parts of the clock
or is it all electronic? My clock just stop when temps go below 10F or
so... Hope it needs some cleaning and maybe the proper oil to cure the
problem. Any suggestions? TIA
Bill
1981 300 TD
Jim Cathey wrote:
So, does
Do you know if it is possible to just clean the inner parts of the
clock
or is it all electronic? My clock just stop when temps go below 10F or
so... Hope it needs some cleaning and maybe the proper oil to cure the
problem. Any suggestions? TIA
Oil is not your problem. Torque for the motor is
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