> On August 2, 2017 at 10:03 PM OK Don via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, spring loaded syringe, melt with iron, then quickly put the syringe
> tip over it and push the button - pop, there goes the solder.
I squeeze the bulb, put the pc board joint in the hole in the tip
Yes, spring loaded syringe, melt with iron, then quickly put the syringe
tip over it and push the button - pop, there goes the solder.
On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 4:34 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Radio Shack still carries the one I use:
>
Radio Shack still carries the one I use:
https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-45-watt-desoldering-iron
But they're probably talking about a syringe like thing that does the sucking
after you melt it with something else.
> On August 2, 2017 at 5:20 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG
On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 4:20 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> What is a solder sucker? Sounds like something I need.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Craig
: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 2:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise control amp install
What is a solder sucker? Sounds like something I need.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Craig via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
&g
On Wed, 2 Aug 2017 16:20:05 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
wrote:
> What is a solder sucker? Sounds like something I need.
https://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-060820-Solder-Desoldering/dp/B00L2HRW92/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi=UTF8=1501709179=1-5=solder+sucker
What is a solder sucker? Sounds like something I need.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
>
> On Wed, 2 Aug 2017 15:40:34 -0500 OK Don via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>> I use a "solder sucker" to remove most of
On Wed, 2 Aug 2017 15:40:34 -0500 OK Don via Mercedes
wrote:
> I use a "solder sucker" to remove most of the old solder, then apply
> new - I don't trust old mechanically broken/hardened and oxidized
> solder. Only had to do each board once . . .
That would be my
I use a "solder sucker" to remove most of the old solder, then apply new -
I don't trust old mechanically broken/hardened and oxidized solder. Only
had to do each board once . . .
On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 10:20 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Never occurred to me that
Never occurred to me that somebody might add only heat!
Yes, you MUST use some fresh flux, and the easiest way is
to add a dab of extra solder.
-- Jim
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On Wed, 2 Aug 2017 03:15:34 -0500 fmiser via Mercedes
wrote:
> When you re-flow the joints, add a bit of that Multicore solder.
> I bit of fresh rosin can make an old joint flow nicely. Just a
> bit - unless its a big joint, then load it up. The extra solder
> can also
> > Kaleb wrote:
> >
> > ... yesterday the cruise did not want to work during the
> > first part of the day but started working again later on. This
> > was after installling it back on the bracket.
> Jim wrote:
>
> I have had several of these CC amps that I had to re-solder more
> than once
I have had several of these CC amps that I had to re-solder more than once
before it would behave. I've never had one that I could not get going,
though.
Not yet, anyway.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
That's what I'm going to do next time. In fact yesterday the cruise did not
want to work during the first part of the day but started working again later
on. This was after installling it back on the bracket. If I got to pull it it
again this is what I will do. I drove the 95 e300 today and the
I found it's often easier to bend open the ears in situ and slip the PCB
straight out.
Repair it on the bench, slip it back into place, and hammer the ears back
over.
(Not until after sufficient testing, of course.)
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To
The CC amp on my 123 wagon is similarly awkwardly placed under the steering
column, and required a bit of time on my back to do the R/R. Since the
Programa rebuild it has worked flawlessly (6 years).
On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 9:11 PM, Michael Esh via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
Yes, I've done that way as well.
Michael E. Esh
> On Jul 30, 2017, at 2:32 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Get a 1/4” ratchet and an extension and use it from over the top of the brake
> pedal stuff to run the bolt in. If you’re under there and look around
I find that a magnet from an old hard drive works very nicely to hold bots
in place while putting the bracket, etc. on it from below.
The magnet does need to come from an old hard drive, not a newer one - they
are too small/weak.
On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 2:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
I will add I had to remove the big black round air pipe at the front under the
dash to give me more room. I also pulled the cluster and there is too much
stuff in the way to get to it from above.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 30, 2017, at 1:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
>
I ended up getting the bolt started. I was finally able to get into a position
to where I could see it better, carefully got the bracket on and pulled down on
it enough to put enough pressure on the bolt so it would not push back in while
threading the nut. Got the nut on about a thread worth
Get a 1/4” ratchet and an extension and use it from over the top of the brake
pedal stuff to run the bolt in. If you’re under there and look around you’ll
see what I’m talking about.
It’s a total pig to get to but that was how I recall doing it on my 350SDL.
-D
> On Jul 30, 2017, at 2:29
I need to get one off the donor 126 but haven't yet so not sure how it
works, but I have found that liberal use of blue tape for holding
various things is a good technique to try for things like this, if you
can get some in there to hold things
--FT
On 7/30/17 2:29 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via
The GenRad calls the ESR rating "Q". I look at that,
and the rated capacitance. The Heathkit IT-28 is responsible
for the leakage test, and is the only one that puts significant
voltage on the cap. I always start there, and if it passes that
test then I'll throw it on one of the good bridge
> > Jim wrote:
> >
> > The Frakos fail, the (few) others I've tested don't.
> Dan wrote:
> That may be, but it’s false economy to not replace all the
> electrolytics while you’re there.
Maybe. But I don't think so. But by measuring the Effective
Series Resistance (which I am _presuming_ is
That may be, but it’s false economy to not replace all the electrolytics while
you’re there. While the others might be fine, they’re close to 20 years old if
not older, so why not swap them out anyway? It’s pocket change cost-wise and
takes all of a minute or two to do.
-D
> On Jul 22,
For the record, I have capacitor testers. (Heathkit, GenRad,
Hewlett-Packard.) The Frakos fail, the (few) others I've tested don't.
-- Jim
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On the dozen-plus CC amps I have repaired, I've _never_ replaced any
capacitor except a Frako. The other repair is re-soldering everything. I
had _one_ that killed some driver transistors, probably due to bad
soldering that allowed the H-drive to engage a short across the power.
IMHO, de-Frako
Please share! The CC amp in my wagon has gone wonky again, I'd love to fix
that (again).
-
Max
Charleston SC
On Sat, Jul 22, 2017 at 9:02 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> There are 5 of them that I see, which are the same ones Craig circled in
>
There are 5 of them that I see, which are the same ones Craig circled in blue.
Poos also sent me his version offlist with the same 5 circled, which is the
exact same 5 I came up with.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 22, 2017, at 7:57 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes
>
Why don't you circle what you consider to be capacitors and let Jim or
Craig grade your work?
I agree with Jim, that is the only one that I can positively ID as a
capacitor, the other things I'm not sure of (square and upright). I see a
lot of big can-shaped diodes that you may be mistaking for
I see the Frako one. Are you saying I only need to replace it and not all of
them?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 21, 2017, at 10:44 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> You have exactly one, and it's labeled "FRAKO". That make, in that vintage,
> have a high incidence of
You have exactly one, and it's labeled "FRAKO". That make, in that
vintage, have a high incidence of failure.
-- Jim
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
So now I'm looking for a replacement 13 pin amp, part #7932.
Anyone got any ideas where I can find one?
Hans Hansel
84 300d
80 450sl
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three
On Tue, 8 Jan 2008 20:34:59 -0600 OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So now I'm looking for a replacement 13 pin amp, part #7932.
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
But not for an opamp.
Craig
.
- Original Message -
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
I had good experiences on rebuilt CC and other components with Beckmann
26, 2007 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
I had good experiences on rebuilt CC and other components with Beckmann
Technologies (they advertise in the Star)
On Dec 26, 2007 5:02 PM, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Kaleb,
We've obviously had different
Did you check with Rusty? Im sorry, I just would not buy a stick of gum off
GM.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
Did you check
PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
Did you check with Rusty? Im sorry, I just would not buy a stick of gum
off
GM.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
Hi the cruise control works alright but has a little surging effect .
what could be serviced for this?
mak
- Original Message -
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 5:41 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise
Jim your help and the help of the others has been of high value. I
went out
today an bought a soder gun. I have three cores. If I mess up I will
send
one to you. No I have never soldered before. So be checking your mail
Jim
I hate to rain on your parade, but if you're soldering for the
Hi the cruise control works alright but has a little surging effect
.
what could be serviced for this?
More description required. Is it a little jiggly surge like a spastic
foot might cause, especially if irregular, or is it more of a long-scale
hunting effect? What is the time scale of
Its a little surge 0f about 4 Km or so seems like stepped on the pedal
gently for a few seconds. the speed is held overall and does not overshoot.
seems I don't have the Speedo cable on my 126 300Se/90. its electronic one
mak
- Original Message -
Hi the cruise control works
Mak -
I seem to remember folks saying that dry ball joints in the throttle linkage
could cause this. I pop them off and lube them with ATF using a Q-tip. I
have a plastic 35mm film container with some ATF and a Q-tip always at the
ready. I find it very handy for all kinds of lube jobs.
Barry
Jim I bought a good iron tip not a gun. I took one look at that gun
and
said no way.
You also need some good solder, and may find that some sort of solder
removal device (I use a Solda-pullit) to remove excess will come in
handy.
And do not overlook the paint stripper step. Really.
Go
Its a little surge 0f about 4 Km or so seems like stepped on the pedal
gently for a few seconds. the speed is held overall and does not
overshoot.
seems I don't have the Speedo cable on my 126 300Se/90. its
electronic one
On a 126 you're talking about the servomotor unit. If lubing the
Barry I will do just that using ATF ,hopefully it will sort out the little
surges,
regards
mak
- Original Message -
From: Barry Stark [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp
I will start with the lubrication and report back.I am sure it will do the
rectification as all other parameters are correct. .
Thanks
mak
the feedback potentiometer track inside the servomotor wears out, but
that
results in difficulties with one particular speed. If setting a
significantly
Yow, lubrication and rectification in adjoining sentences. I am cringing.
--R
M.Afzaal.Khan wrote:
I will start with the lubrication and report back.I am sure it will do the
rectification as all other parameters are correct. .
Thanks
mak
Sorry didn't get that bit. ??
-
Yow, lubrication and rectification in adjoining sentences. I am cringing.
--R
M.Afzaal.Khan wrote:
I will start with the lubrication and report back.I am sure it will do
the
rectification as all other parameters are correct. .
Thanks
mak
Jim Cathey wrote:
Jim I bought a good iron tip not a gun. I took one look at that gun
and
said no way.
You also need some good solder, and may find that some sort of solder
removal device (I use a Solda-pullit) to remove excess will come in
handy.
And do not overlook the paint
thanks David!
- Original Message -
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp 1979 240D
Jim Cathey wrote:
Jim I bought a good iron tip not a gun. I took
: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp 1979 240D
Jim Cathey wrote:
Jim I bought a good iron tip not a gun. I took one look at that gun
and
said no way.
You also need some good solder, and may find that some sort of solder
removal device (I use a Solda-pullit
Is thee a link to fix these? MB Model number is 001-545 2132
You can resolder them yourself if you like, most of them seem to
respond to that in my experience. But it's a tedious job, and
you'd better know how to solder if you want a good chance of success.
Or I can do it. Or you can get a
Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp 1979 240D
Is thee a link to fix these? MB Model number is 001-545 2132
You can resolder them yourself if you like, most of them seem to
respond
Try Jim at http://cathey.dogear.com/mamerepairs.html
Harry
On 9/24/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Anyone have a cruise control amp they want to sell which they know
works. I
changed one out today for one I got in a grab bag ebay sale which had a
bunch of other controlers.
Wrong bulb will cause it not to work.
Sunil Hari wrote:
did nothing but switch the rear fog light bulb and the brake light bulb.
Neither was burned out. Cruise now works at all speeds. WTF?
On 5/16/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
14 pins
Sunil Hari wrote:
Anyone know
transistors. Schematics are very scarce - Mercedes doesn't supply them
to anyone.
But they _are_ available, at least until the mid 80's.
-- Jim
did nothing but switch the rear fog light bulb and the brake light bulb.
Neither was burned out. Cruise now works at all speeds. WTF?
On 5/16/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
14 pins
Sunil Hari wrote:
Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin
variety?
did nothing but switch the rear fog light bulb and the brake light
bulb.
Neither was burned out. Cruise now works at all speeds. WTF?
Corrosion in the socket causing intermittent contact.
-- Jim
Sunil Hari wrote:
did nothing but switch the rear fog light bulb and the brake light bulb.
Neither was burned out. Cruise now works at all speeds. WTF?
Old cruise controls do that. They can become intermittent. Sometimes
using them daily improves reliably and sometimes not (but they USUALLY
Sunil Hari wrote:
Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin variety? If
not 12 pins, how many is it? I haven't had time to extract the unit.
As I recall they are 14 pin, but have a plug-in that that earlier units
don't have. It may be matched to the car/engine.
I
I tried removing the CC amp today - I removed the black plastic panel,
unplugged the CC amp, but I couldn't see/access the screws or bolts holding
the amp in. Where are they?
Also, do I have to remove the tan dash panel just below the steering
column? If so, how? I thought I removed all the
In a message dated 5/16/2006 2:50:13 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I tried removing the CC amp today - I removed the black plastic panel,
unplugged the CC amp, but I couldn't see/access the screws or bolts holding
the amp in. Where are they?
Also, do I have to
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