[MBZ] 1974 240D

2005-11-14 Thread Tom Scordato
Anyone interested in a 1974 240D, I think has around 70-90K.  Body in good 
shape. Located in Philly area.  I test drove it.  Some minor things but with 
a little tlc could be a very good daily driver.  Real nice condition for a 
115.


If you are interested email me direct and I will hook you up.  I was going 
to by but settled on a 123 chassis four banger.


Regards Tom Scordato
Bellefonte PA
- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?



Thanks - I will try the local sources.

On 11/14/05, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

$1.70, probably cheaper to get locally.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

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[MBZ] Mobil NZ's synthetic oil recommendations

2005-11-14 Thread Euan
Hi team

Just when you hoped the synthetic oil thread had died...

Here's the Mobil 1 oil and drain interval recommendation I received from
Mobil NZ yesterday.

 Unfortunately, we do not have the Mobil 1 Truck  SUV 5W-40 in NZ or
Australia. Our closest would be Mobil 1 5W-50. The information I have about
your vehicle is that you need to use an oil that meets Mercedes Benz spec
229.1, which this mobil 1 does. Being an old car, the previous service
history would have a bearing as to how good a choice Mobil 1 is. Mobil 1
cleans better than most oils, so as long as the car is sound in condition,
Mobil 1 will be fine. Things to look out for are oil consumption.

As far as oil drains are concerned, change the first one at 5000, to get
rid of any muck Mobil 1 has managed to clean off, then go to 1 km's.

Regards

MOBIL LUBELINE 


From what you guys say, Mobil 1 5W-50 would be suitable for very cold
conditions. At my end of NZ, however, our temps range from minus 3 to 5 C
(rarely) to +30 C (occasionally). A very equable climate.

The other oil option you mention (Mobil 15W-50) does not meet MB specs
according to the information on Mobil NZ's website (
http://www.mobil.com/New_Zealand-English/Lubes/PDS/
GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_15W-50.asp)  but it meets 229.1 on
www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html. Huh?


BTW  I mentioned this synthetic oil discussion to my highly and widely
respected MB specialist mechanic yesterday. He wasn't enthusiastic about me
changing to synthetic oil (why go to that expense?  - change the dino oil
more frequently and know you've got all the waste products out - how
environmentally harmful is burning waste synthetic oil?)

The last question is a good one, since NZ burns rather than re-refines its
waste oil. Anyone got any info on that?


Regards

Euan

1985 300TD 5-spd manual
199K miles

1990 Toyota Hilux D/cab 4WD
130K km


___

Euan S Kennedy
Christchurch
New Zealand

Phone +64 3 980 5712
Cellphone  027 326 3245
E-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]




Re: [MBZ] this is waht happens when ...............

2005-11-14 Thread PONDERSOA
 
In a message dated 11/14/2005 6:38:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, PONDERSOA  
writes:

this is waht happens when dallas come to phila...
beer cold 
ribs bbqing 
potatoe salad...saiding!!!
wood ( for our back yard bond fire)  stacked
 and five people form New Orleans la  who are with me  ...looking in amazment 
at what happens to iggles ( eagles) fans when dem  dirty rotten communist 
%^* [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) *!  dallas cowboys come to  
town!.priceless 
( we cant seem to explain it to them they just dont understand!)  

oh yeah cowboys players drive ...B.M.W.s heathens! ,and they beat  their 
dogs ! yeah really
 
ho and away we go
 
collins 1985 500 sec  



 


[MBZ] this is waht happens when ...............

2005-11-14 Thread PONDERSOA
this is waht happens when dallas come to phila...
beer cold 
ribs bbqing 
potatoe salad...saiding!!!
wood ( for our back yard bond fire)  stacked
 and five people form New Orleans la  who are with me ...looking  in amazment 
at what happens to iggles ( eagles) fans when dem dirty rotten  communist 
%^* [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) *!  dallas cowboys  come to 
town!.priceless 
( we cant seem to explain it to them they just dont understand!) 
 
oh yeah cowboys players drive ...B.M.W.s heathens! ,and they beat their  
dogs ! yeah really
 
ho and away we go
 
collins 1985 500 sec  
 
-- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] Iowa tornadoes -- LT. Don?

2005-11-14 Thread Dan Weeks

Were you affected by the overnight tornadoes?


Craig


Lt. Don lives in Jefferson, which tho not far away, was not one of 
the 9 towns hit.



--
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 182k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 275k



[MBZ] Service Manuals Online

2005-11-14 Thread Vernon Ritchey
This looks like a good link to many online MB service manuals:  
http://mb.braingears.com/

Scott Ritchey, Kittrell, NC
1982 300 SD 225K miles
1979 300 TD 355K miles
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] (Sorry) more synthetic oil questions!
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Delvac 1 is preferable to the others if you can find it, at least for
diesels.  I use Mobile 1 15W50 for summer use, 5W50 most of the time
for winter, I have been doing about four oil changes a year lately with
the milage I'm accumulating.  6000 mile intervals work fine with a
filter each change so far -- car runs like a top at 234,000 miles and
starts instantly, doesn't use more than a quart in 6000 miles.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] (Sorry) more synthetic oil questions!

2005-11-14 Thread Marshall Booth

Peter Frederick wrote:
Delvac 1 is preferable to the others if you can find it, at least for 
diesels.  I use Mobile 1 15W50 for summer use, 5W50 most of the time 
for winter, I have been doing about four oil changes a year lately with 
the milage I'm accumulating.  6000 mile intervals work fine with a 
filter each change so far -- car runs like a top at 234,000 miles and 
starts instantly, doesn't use more than a quart in 6000 miles.


Peter


While Delvac 1 (Mobil 1 Truck and SUV is an identical blend except for a 
boron marker) is clearly the premium diesel rated full synthetic oil, 
but unless you intend to use extended change intervals (more then 30kmi) 
you will find virtually no advantage compared to the CF rated Mobil 1 
varieties. It is only at extreme change intervals that the exceptional 
properties of Delvac 1 become important. It is NOT (in MY opinion) worth 
the premium price (~$7/qt) compared to Mobil 1 Truck and SUV ($5.50/qt) 
or other Mobil 1 blends.


Best value recently is 5 qt bottles of M-1 TSUV at Wal-Mart for ~$20.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




[MBZ] anyone need any W140/R129 parts?

2005-11-14 Thread James Zavesky
Did the rear accumulators on Deb's 1995 E320 today, major PITA. Rather go to
the dentist. Still need to do them on the 600SEL - can't wait.

Then continued cleaning the garage from last weekend - found more stuff that
needs to go. I'm putting a car in the garage this year one way or another
screw that working in zero degree weather outside garbage.


Rear rotors - NEW - scuffed and high temp painted for 1991 500SL

4 chrome W140 8 hole 16 rims, nice shiney bright face, light chrome peeling
inside,  great for snows - powder coating - rechroming - lawn ornament

L  R W140 Headlights w/glass lens these are the 1995 and up style with the
replaceable lens and will fit 1992 and up cars as a direct replacement. Also
includes a spare lens. Don't remember if it's Left or Right. It's used and
it goes with the lights.

Email me if interested, I'm in Ohio.

This next item is FREE just pay shipping - Mercedes Microfiche Reader - NO
SLIDES


James Zavesky
1991 500SL
1992 600SEL
1995 E320









Re: [MBZ] (Sorry) more synthetic oil questions!

2005-11-14 Thread TimothyPilgrim
While we're on the subject Marshall, do you have any words about ELF
synthetic oil? My indie (VW and MB born and bred) put ELF Excellium
DID 5w30 in my Golf TDI. I see ELF has a wide range of diesel oils. He
only uses ELF oils in the VW's he services. I don't know what he uses
in the MB diesels he takes care of.

http://www.elf.com/live/wex/lub/lubroot.nsf/VS_OPM/3C44780A936138B4C1256E7F0043CBA4?OpenDocument

Click on Engine from Range of Products list.

FWIW, I can't get ELF products at any local store that I know of, but
Mobil 1 15w50 is easily available. For some reason 5w40 is not. I've
yet to see that one at all.

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/13/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Peter Frederick wrote:
  Delvac 1 is preferable to the others if you can find it, at least for
  diesels.  I use Mobile 1 15W50 for summer use, 5W50 most of the time
  for winter, I have been doing about four oil changes a year lately with
  the milage I'm accumulating.  6000 mile intervals work fine with a
  filter each change so far -- car runs like a top at 234,000 miles and
  starts instantly, doesn't use more than a quart in 6000 miles.
 
  Peter

 While Delvac 1 (Mobil 1 Truck and SUV is an identical blend except for a
 boron marker) is clearly the premium diesel rated full synthetic oil,
 but unless you intend to use extended change intervals (more then 30kmi)
 you will find virtually no advantage compared to the CF rated Mobil 1
 varieties. It is only at extreme change intervals that the exceptional
 properties of Delvac 1 become important. It is NOT (in MY opinion) worth
 the premium price (~$7/qt) compared to Mobil 1 Truck and SUV ($5.50/qt)
 or other Mobil 1 blends.

 Best value recently is 5 qt bottles of M-1 TSUV at Wal-Mart for ~$20.

 Marshall
 --
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi

 ___
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[MBZ] OT: For the Suburban lovers

2005-11-14 Thread TimothyPilgrim
I didn't know they went back this far:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suburban-Classic-Suburban-Hot-Rod-Classic-Truck_W0QQitemZ4589260629QQcategoryZ6155QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Tim
1982 300TD Moby



Re: [MBZ] (Sorry) more synthetic oil questions!

2005-11-14 Thread Marshall Booth

TimothyPilgrim wrote:

While we're on the subject Marshall, do you have any words about ELF
synthetic oil? My indie (VW and MB born and bred) put ELF Excellium
DID 5w30 in my Golf TDI. I see ELF has a wide range of diesel oils. He
only uses ELF oils in the VW's he services. I don't know what he uses
in the MB diesels he takes care of.

http://www.elf.com/live/wex/lub/lubroot.nsf/VS_OPM/3C44780A936138B4C1256E7F0043CBA4?OpenDocument

Click on Engine from Range of Products list.

FWIW, I can't get ELF products at any local store that I know of, but
Mobil 1 15w50 is easily available. For some reason 5w40 is not. I've
yet to see that one at all.


I have NO experience with it. I'm told they make some good oil. I have 
not found any xW-30 oil that's been satisfactory for my diesels and 
won't go looking for one as long as Mobil keeps selling Delvac 1 or M-1 
TSUV.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] this weeks OMG

2005-11-14 Thread PONDERSOA
well it is interesting and ill bet it can move out .of course there is  
no way i would buy this thing engine and block and of freeze plug  
damage!!! 
yeah right
and look how close that battery's terminals are to the cowl  ...shz
collins
1985 500 sec
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/77-Mercedes-300D-to-Ford-302-Conversion-Kit_W0Q
QitemZ8014547235QQcategoryZ6783QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Re: [MBZ] Shadetree MB alignment

2005-11-14 Thread PONDERSOA
 



i read this in its entirety and all i can say is  look it really  is not that 
expensive to take the car to an alignment shop 
its worth it as a matter of fact i think the only time i sent my car out  was 
for alignment and paint
 what are you trying to do if you are trying to save money on your  beloved 
car that's cool but you wont be able to accurately do this   alignment  with 
the things and procedures  out lined 
 
collins
1985 500sec
 
 
 
 In a message dated 11/13/2005 11:31:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Some one  was posting about toe setting questions. I found this in my 
archive...
Rick  Knoble
1985 300 CD

- Original Message - 
From:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005  6:36 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Re: Mercedes Digest, Vol 2, Issue 102


Or,  you could jack up the car and rest it on blocks under the lower control 
arms  so the tires are just barely off the ground. Take Juniors sidewalk chalk 
and  hold it against the tire tread and rotate the tire to make a chalk 
stripe all  the way around. Middle of the tire is nice but either side of 
middle 
works  too. Then take a nail, ball point pen, or something like it and brace it 
 
against the floor and the tire. Again, rotate the tire to make a line all the 
 way around. The ends should meet exactly, if not, start over. I used to do  
this with just a pen line, but then I used to see without bifocals  too.







[MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?

2005-11-14 Thread OK Don
Can you get MB part 601 078 00 16 ? If so, price?
It's the plastic cover with the fuel inlet connection for the fuel
thermostat on a '90 300D 2.5 ???

Thanks,
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



Re: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system

2005-11-14 Thread Dave Wakin

Kaleb,

Have you checked the main overload protection relay/fuse on the firewall? I 
believe it is a 10 amp and can cause weird issues when it fails. May just 
need a new fuse, maybe the whole relay.


Dave W


- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 10:53 AM
Subject: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system



If you all remember from a couple of weeks ago my 560SEL was not
charging, and non of the instrument cluster lights were coming on when
the key was turned on and before the engine started.  Well I put another
alternator on it and it was charging but still no lights.  Anyways,
yesterday I went to start it and the battery was dead.  Put a different
battery on it and notice the red battery light stays on when the key is
turned OFF and goes out when the key is turned on but before the engine
is started.  Car starts fine with the charged battery but the alternator
does not appear to be charging like it should(only 12.2 volts or so).
What the heck is going on with this thing?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

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Re: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system

2005-11-14 Thread OK Don
I agree with Dave - sounds like a stuck relay, but you can't over look
the fuses - Change ALL the FUSES.

On 11/14/05, Dave Wakin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Kaleb,

 Have you checked the main overload protection relay/fuse on the firewall? I
 believe it is a 10 amp and can cause weird issues when it fails. May just
 need a new fuse, maybe the whole relay.

 Dave W



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



Re: [MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm

2005-11-14 Thread Christopher McCann
This is what it provides: http://www.pindelski.com
  
  I'm asking y'all if it's woth it...don't think you'll really know until  you 
subscribe, which I am not willing to do without a recommendation  from a 
trusted source who has already done so...
  
  Chris

Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  What does the site privide and what's 
it worth? 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 3:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ]/subscribe.htm

$25/yr to subscribe - does anybody - is it worth it?
  
  Thanks, Chris 
  


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger
  
-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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will check that out.  The last time I had one of those fail it would 
cause the idle to go way up to about 1800 rpm and I believe the SRS 
light to stay on.

Dave Wakin wrote:

 Kaleb,
 
 Have you checked the main overload protection relay/fuse on the firewall? I 
 believe it is a 10 amp and can cause weird issues when it fails. May just 
 need a new fuse, maybe the whole relay.
 
 Dave W
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 10:53 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system
 
 
 
If you all remember from a couple of weeks ago my 560SEL was not
charging, and non of the instrument cluster lights were coming on when
the key was turned on and before the engine started.  Well I put another
alternator on it and it was charging but still no lights.  Anyways,
yesterday I went to start it and the battery was dead.  Put a different
battery on it and notice the red battery light stays on when the key is
turned OFF and goes out when the key is turned on but before the engine
is started.  Car starts fine with the charged battery but the alternator
does not appear to be charging like it should(only 12.2 volts or so).
What the heck is going on with this thing?
-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 

Re: [MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm

2005-11-14 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

try the $5 trial.

Christopher McCann wrote:


This is what it provides: http://www.pindelski.com
  
  I'm asking y'all if it's woth it...don't think you'll really know until  you subscribe, which I am not willing to do without a recommendation  from a trusted source who has already done so...
  
  Chris


Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  What does the site privide and what's it worth? 



Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 3:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ]/subscribe.htm

$25/yr to subscribe - does anybody - is it worth it?
  
  Thanks, Chris 
  



Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)

-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger
  
-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
___

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)

-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm

2005-11-14 Thread John Robbins

Tom Hargrave wrote:
What does the site privide and what's it worth? 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 3:33 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm

$25/yr to subscribe - does anybody - is it worth it?


Its an old MercedesShop member who did some excellent picture based 
tutorials on all the maintenance he did to his car (valves, a/c some 
suspension, some engine, pretty middle of the line as far as difficulty 
goes with some delving into deeper stuff).  He would have 30 or so 
pictures for each job, and would add pointers to specific items, with 
text descriptions added describing the procedure.  I have never bought 
the subscription, and have not seen his work since he went to the pay 
model.  That was a couple of years ago, and I imagine that his tutorial 
database has significantly increased.


The tutorials are of *excellent* quality, and if you're new to the MB 
maintenance thing, would definitely be worth it.  If you've been around 
the block a few times they are a great reference, but up to you if it's 
worth $25.


HTH
John
'79 300SD



Re: [MBZ] Craig's List Nashville 190D

2005-11-14 Thread Tan Qu
I think we are talking about two different cars. The
one I bid on was located at Daytona Beach, FL.


Tan

--- TimothyPilgrim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Let me guess, a 190D that Tan was bidding on and
 lost by $100?
 
 Tim
 1982 300TD Moby
 
 On 11/12/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
  no, the good deals dont last long.  Y'all dont
 even want to know about
  the steal deal I just brought home.
 
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[MBZ] Big discount on buying a new Benz

2005-11-14 Thread Rich Thomas

It's all in who you know!

--R

http://www.nationalreview.com/rosett/rosett200511140905.asp




[MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987 300TDT

2005-11-14 Thread Tan Qu
There is a 1995 E320 wagon at an european car lot not
far from where I work - 80,000 miles, immaculate
condition, asking for $10,500.

How does it compare to the 1987 300TDT wagon -
longevity and maintenance wise? I know the fuel
mileage on the E320 is lower than the diesel wagon.
The E320 certainly has whole lot more electrical junks
which I assume will cost more to keep up. Any known
big ticket items? 

Just curious and would like to hear back from the E320
or gas MB owners...


Tan



Re: [MBZ] '90 300D 2.5 transmission modulator adjustment

2005-11-14 Thread Hans Neureiter
Don, what you are looking at is the control pressure/kick-down cable.
The modulator is right in front of the Neutral safety switch at the left
side right above the pan..

 On 11/13/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I did adjust the VCV - and it made a little bit of difference, but not
 a lot. Under WOT - it takes almost a full second to complete a shift
 from 1-2 or 2-3.
 This the 722.418 transmission - guess I need a technical resource
 with where to measure what, etc. I don't think I have a gauge that
 will measure 15.6 bar +/-1.0.
 If it's where I think it is, the modulator is on top of the tranny on
 the passenger side. I think that's where the vacuum line ends. I can
 only see the bottom side of it. Don't see how one would make any
 adjustments to it with the tranny in place.

 On 11/13/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  OK Don wrote:
   I'm missing something here - I can't find where/how to adjust the
   shift hardness on this car.
   Chassis - 124.128
   Engine - 602.962
   Tranny - 722.418
  
   The sifts on this car are softer than I'd like - just short of
   flaring. I like a nice crisp shift under WOT.
  
   I don't have the 124 manual, but it looks like this engine is
   referenced on the 126 manual that I do have, in the injection system
   section. However, if it's right, the adjustment lever must be between
   the VCV and the IP - meaning you have to remove it? There is also
   mention of rotating the VCV with the throttle at the full open stop
   (with the engine running?). You rotate the VCV till you feel
   resistance. Does this affect the shifts?
  
   What's the right way to adjust the shifts, and where is it done?
 
  The 722.3/.4 series transmissions for turbodiesels manufactured from the
  mid '80 on shifted MUCH more smoothly than all of the previous versions.
  That's a feature, NOT a flaw! To increase the firmness of the shifts
  beyond what was intended WILL result in premature wear.
 
  I suggest that you measure the pressures and set them to the intended
  values (I don't have confirmed settings for your model - 1990+ 124.128 -
  the last setting I have are for '89 cars with a 722.418 transmission - a
  mod pressure of 3.25 bar and a working pressure of 15.6 bar +/-1.0).
 
  Much of the illusion of soft shifts comes from the high stall speed of
  the torque converter used in later turbodiesel cars - much higher
  (~20-25%) than the converters used until 1985. With these later
  transmissions, the difference in engine speed between the engine driving
  the car and the car driving the engine can be more than 600 rpm - the
  earlier transmissions (and those for normally aspirated diesels) seldom
  vary more than about 100 rpm. I DO prefer that tighter coupling, but
  you'd need to re-engineer the torque converter to accomplish that.
  Adjusting the shift firmness beyond the factory settings would only
  damage the transmission.
 
  Marshall
  --
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
  turbo 237kmi
 
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 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
 The FSM created the Diesel Benz
 http://www.venganza.org/

 ___
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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D


Re: [MBZ] 602.962 vacuum pump

2005-11-14 Thread Marshall Booth
OK Don wrote:
 Is the vacuum pump on the 602.962 engine subject to the same failures
 as the crimped cover original units on the '86-'87 603 engines?
 =

 It looks to be a different part number in the EPC (if I'm reading it
 correctly) --

Mercedes/Pierburg has redesigned the pump at LEAST 3 times that I know =

of (maybe more - a parts man once told me at least 6, but I've not =

checked to see if there are 6 different part numbers) over the 15+ years =

that it was used.

The earliest versions (1st couple of years) were VERY likely to fly =

apart well before 200kmi and more than a couple of engines were =

destroyed when parts from a failing pump rained into the chain vault and =

derailed the timing chain. This pattern of failure has occurred with at =

least the 1st and 2nd generation versions thru the '80s (and maybe later =

as well) and because of this some techs say that the pump REALLY should =

be changed at least every 200kmi whether it gives problems or not (some =

early pumps didn't last even 150kmi).

The later pumps often/usually warn of eminent failure by leaking oil =

before they fly apart. I have had to change the pumps in 5 of the 7 =

OM60x engines I've owned - 4 before the engines had 200kmi on them. I =

believe those pumps were all 1st or 2nd generation pumps. I've been told =

that the latest versions with the screws on the front cover (as opposed =

to those that are simply crimped) ARE more long lived.

It's important to change the pump BEFORE it flies apart because as soon =

as the bearing begins to fail (the most common failure pattern - I'm =

told that when the bearing starts to fail, the front seal will start to =

leak) it starts to wear the cam surface and if the cam surface shows =

clearly visible wear, the entire timer must be replaced =

(Pierburg/Mercedes will not warrant a pump damaged from being run on a =

worn timer cam - see Pierburg pamphlet). It is common when pumps are =

paired with worn cam surface for the pump to fail in less than 20kmi.

I've attached the Pierburg pamphlet.

Marshall
-- =

  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 =

turbo 237kmi
-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: Pierburg.pdf
Type: application/pdf
Size: 279913 bytes
Desc: not available
Url : http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20051=
114/83e86be4/Pierburg.pdf


Re: [MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?

2005-11-14 Thread Rusty Cullens
$1.70, probably cheaper to get locally.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 12:03 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?

Can you get MB part 601 078 00 16 ? If so, price?
It's the plastic cover with the fuel inlet connection for the fuel
thermostat on a '90 300D 2.5 ???

Thanks,
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

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Re: [MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987 300TDT

2005-11-14 Thread Lee Levitt
Wow. That list would certainly keep me away from the newer MB.

And this might be heresy on this list, but you might want to take a look at
a '95-'98 Audi A6 wagon. We've got one with 110K on it, and in my experience
(and that of the quattro list), there just isn't that much to go wrong on
those cars. They drive beautifully, and the quattro system is unbeatable in
bad weather.

You can spend less than $8K on a nice one, $4K on an average one.

Lee
 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Thompson
 Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 10:13 AM
 To: Mercedes mailing list
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987 300TDT
 
 Tan,
  My take is that for the first 150Kmi or so, the 1995 gasser 
 will be as reliable and economical as the older diesel. After 
 that point, though, the diesel will still be going while the 
 gasser will start to need a few more expensive repairs.
  Several things to look for right away on any 1993-1995 M104 
 motor Mercedes:
 - check to see if the engine wiring harness has been 
 replaced. If not, you are looking at sizeable DIY project or 
 an expensive repair bill in the neat future. These wiring 
 harnesses have a biodegradeable insulation that, under the 
 extreme temperatures of the engine bay, have been known to 
 degrade much ahead of plan. Last I looked, the engine wiring 
 alone went over $800 retail.
 Plan on at least 6 hours for the typical DIYer.
  - check and make sure the air conditioner blows cold. Make 
 sure someone hasn't just topped off the refrigerant in order 
 to sell the car. At least
 1994-1995 cars had aluminum evaporators that are prone to 
 springing leaks.
 While an evaporator isn't too expensive (about $200), I've 
 been quoted anywhere from 13 to 16 hours of labor to gut the 
 interior in order to replace the evaporator. I know of 
 several dedicated DIYers who have attempted this on their 
 own, but only one has said he would do it again...
  - The early 104 motors tended to have issues with oil leaks 
 from the head gaskets. Check this out closely. Options are to 
 live with the leaks (for
 awhile) or pull the head and replace the head gasket.
  - I've been having ignition issues lately on mine. Seems to 
 miss some at idle, and hesitate on acceleration every now and 
 then. The more research I do, the more I hear of this being 
 common with the early HFM system used starting with the M104 
 in 1993. Most of these issues are related to the wiring 
 harness mentioned above, but in some cases the bad wiring has 
 caused sensors to fail prematurely as well, and it can take 
 some time to get it all sorted out.
  Scared you yet? If you have access to any service history 
 and do your homework, it's not nearly as bad as it sounds. 
 Many wiring harnesses and head gaskets have already been 
 replaced. I simply love the feel of the W124 chassis, and the 
 M104 motor is just enough to make it a joy to drive (though 
 I'd gladly trade for Dave M's E500).
  I've heard a number of people claim if you plan on more than 
 20kmi per year, the deisel is the way to go. Under that, it's 
 personal preference. I'd kinda agree with that statement.
   Gary Thompson
 1995 E320
 1984 300D (sold)
 
 
  On 11/14/05, Tan Qu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  There is a 1995 E320 wagon at an european car lot not far 
 from where I 
  work - 80,000 miles, immaculate condition, asking for $10,500.
 
  How does it compare to the 1987 300TDT wagon - longevity and 
  maintenance wise? I know the fuel mileage on the E320 is lower than 
  the diesel wagon.
  The E320 certainly has whole lot more electrical junks 
 which I assume 
  will cost more to keep up. Any known big ticket items?
 
  Just curious and would like to hear back from the E320 or gas MB 
  owners...
 
 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: 
 http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 





Re: [MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987 300TDT

2005-11-14 Thread Tan Qu
Gary,

Thanks for the information. Although my commute now is
not as far as it used to be, somehow I still rack up
25k miles a year. From what you described, the gas
wagon probably will be out of my conformt zone to
own... 


Tan


--- Gary Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Tan,
  My take is that for the first 150Kmi or so, the
 1995 gasser will be as
 reliable and economical as the older diesel. After
 that point, though, the
 diesel will still be going while the gasser will
 start to need a few more
 expensive repairs.
  Several things to look for right away on any
 1993-1995 M104 motor Mercedes:
 - check to see if the engine wiring harness has been
 replaced. If not, you
 are looking at sizeable DIY project or an expensive
 repair bill in the neat
 future. These wiring harnesses have a biodegradeable
 insulation that, under
 the extreme temperatures of the engine bay, have
 been known to degrade much
 ahead of plan. Last I looked, the engine wiring
 alone went over $800 retail.
 Plan on at least 6 hours for the typical DIYer.
  - check and make sure the air conditioner blows
 cold. Make sure someone
 hasn't just topped off the refrigerant in order to
 sell the car. At least
 1994-1995 cars had aluminum evaporators that are
 prone to springing leaks.
 While an evaporator isn't too expensive (about
 $200), I've been quoted
 anywhere from 13 to 16 hours of labor to gut the
 interior in order to
 replace the evaporator. I know of several dedicated
 DIYers who have
 attempted this on their own, but only one has said
 he would do it again...
  - The early 104 motors tended to have issues with
 oil leaks from the head
 gaskets. Check this out closely. Options are to live
 with the leaks (for
 awhile) or pull the head and replace the head
 gasket.
  - I've been having ignition issues lately on mine.
 Seems to miss some at
 idle, and hesitate on acceleration every now and
 then. The more research I
 do, the more I hear of this being common with the
 early HFM system used
 starting with the M104 in 1993. Most of these issues
 are related to the
 wiring harness mentioned above, but in some cases
 the bad wiring has caused
 sensors to fail prematurely as well, and it can take
 some time to get it all
 sorted out.
  Scared you yet? If you have access to any service
 history and do your
 homework, it's not nearly as bad as it sounds. Many
 wiring harnesses and
 head gaskets have already been replaced. I simply
 love the feel of the W124
 chassis, and the M104 motor is just enough to make
 it a joy to drive (though
 I'd gladly trade for Dave M's E500).
  I've heard a number of people claim if you plan on
 more than 20kmi per
 year, the deisel is the way to go. Under that, it's
 personal preference. I'd
 kinda agree with that statement.
   Gary Thompson
 1995 E320
 1984 300D (sold)
 
 
  On 11/14/05, Tan Qu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  There is a 1995 E320 wagon at an european car lot
 not
  far from where I work - 80,000 miles, immaculate
  condition, asking for $10,500.
 
  How does it compare to the 1987 300TDT wagon -
  longevity and maintenance wise? I know the fuel
  mileage on the E320 is lower than the diesel
 wagon.
  The E320 certainly has whole lot more electrical
 junks
  which I assume will cost more to keep up. Any
 known
  big ticket items?
 
  Just curious and would like to hear back from the
 E320
  or gas MB owners...
 
 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor:
 http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 




Re: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system

2005-11-14 Thread mykd1
Kaleb, its not just the volts that the alternator should be putting out (12.2  
sounds ok) its the amps thats needed for keeping the battery charged. Have you 
checked all your grounds ? A bad ground could cause those symptoms since you 
said putting in a new battery worked, but the red battery light stays lit. That 
sounds to me like a weak ground on the battery side..  
 
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata   
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dave Wakin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mon, 14 Nov 2005 08:41:07 -0500
Subject: Re: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system


Kaleb,

Have you checked the main overload protection relay/fuse on the firewall? I 
believe it is a 10 amp and can cause weird issues when it fails. May just 
need a new fuse, maybe the whole relay.

Dave W


- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 10:53 AM
Subject: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system


 If you all remember from a couple of weeks ago my 560SEL was not
 charging, and non of the instrument cluster lights were coming on when
 the key was turned on and before the engine started.  Well I put another
 alternator on it and it was charging but still no lights.  Anyways,
 yesterday I went to start it and the battery was dead.  Put a different
 battery on it and notice the red battery light stays on when the key is
 turned OFF and goes out when the key is turned on but before the engine
 is started.  Car starts fine with the charged battery but the alternator
 does not appear to be charging like it should(only 12.2 volts or so).
 What the heck is going on with this thing?
 -- 
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987 300TDT

2005-11-14 Thread Tan Qu
Lee,

Does Audi wagons come with manual transmission? That
would be a plus. I looked at some BMW stickshift wagon
and they command premiums on Ebay, not to mention the
amount of electronic stuff that makes me worry. I
guess I have been spoiled by having almost none
eletrical problems on the 2 MB diesels we currently
have. 


Tan
--- Lee Levitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Wow. That list would certainly keep me away from the
 newer MB.
 
 And this might be heresy on this list, but you might
 want to take a look at
 a '95-'98 Audi A6 wagon. We've got one with 110K on
 it, and in my experience
 (and that of the quattro list), there just isn't
 that much to go wrong on
 those cars. They drive beautifully, and the quattro
 system is unbeatable in
 bad weather.
 
 You can spend less than $8K on a nice one, $4K on an
 average one.
 
 Lee
  
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
 Of Gary Thompson
  Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 10:13 AM
  To: Mercedes mailing list
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987
 300TDT
  
  Tan,
   My take is that for the first 150Kmi or so, the
 1995 gasser 
  will be as reliable and economical as the older
 diesel. After 
  that point, though, the diesel will still be going
 while the 
  gasser will start to need a few more expensive
 repairs.
   Several things to look for right away on any
 1993-1995 M104 
  motor Mercedes:
  - check to see if the engine wiring harness has
 been 
  replaced. If not, you are looking at sizeable DIY
 project or 
  an expensive repair bill in the neat future. These
 wiring 
  harnesses have a biodegradeable insulation that,
 under the 
  extreme temperatures of the engine bay, have been
 known to 
  degrade much ahead of plan. Last I looked, the
 engine wiring 
  alone went over $800 retail.
  Plan on at least 6 hours for the typical DIYer.
   - check and make sure the air conditioner blows
 cold. Make 
  sure someone hasn't just topped off the
 refrigerant in order 
  to sell the car. At least
  1994-1995 cars had aluminum evaporators that are
 prone to 
  springing leaks.
  While an evaporator isn't too expensive (about
 $200), I've 
  been quoted anywhere from 13 to 16 hours of labor
 to gut the 
  interior in order to replace the evaporator. I
 know of 
  several dedicated DIYers who have attempted this
 on their 
  own, but only one has said he would do it again...
   - The early 104 motors tended to have issues with
 oil leaks 
  from the head gaskets. Check this out closely.
 Options are to 
  live with the leaks (for
  awhile) or pull the head and replace the head
 gasket.
   - I've been having ignition issues lately on
 mine. Seems to 
  miss some at idle, and hesitate on acceleration
 every now and 
  then. The more research I do, the more I hear of
 this being 
  common with the early HFM system used starting
 with the M104 
  in 1993. Most of these issues are related to the
 wiring 
  harness mentioned above, but in some cases the bad
 wiring has 
  caused sensors to fail prematurely as well, and it
 can take 
  some time to get it all sorted out.
   Scared you yet? If you have access to any service
 history 
  and do your homework, it's not nearly as bad as it
 sounds. 
  Many wiring harnesses and head gaskets have
 already been 
  replaced. I simply love the feel of the W124
 chassis, and the 
  M104 motor is just enough to make it a joy to
 drive (though 
  I'd gladly trade for Dave M's E500).
   I've heard a number of people claim if you plan
 on more than 
  20kmi per year, the deisel is the way to go. Under
 that, it's 
  personal preference. I'd kinda agree with that
 statement.
Gary Thompson
  1995 E320
  1984 300D (sold)
  
  
   On 11/14/05, Tan Qu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   There is a 1995 E320 wagon at an european car
 lot not far 
  from where I 
   work - 80,000 miles, immaculate condition,
 asking for $10,500.
  
   How does it compare to the 1987 300TDT wagon -
 longevity and 
   maintenance wise? I know the fuel mileage on the
 E320 is lower than 
   the diesel wagon.
   The E320 certainly has whole lot more electrical
 junks 
  which I assume 
   will cost more to keep up. Any known big ticket
 items?
  
   Just curious and would like to hear back from
 the E320 or gas MB 
   owners...
  
  ___
  For new parts see official list sponsor: 
  http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 

http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
  
  
 
 
 
 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor:
 http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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Re: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system

2005-11-14 Thread Levi Smith
Uhh, unless I'm missing something, 12.2 isn't really enough. I would only
expect to see that if maybe you're overloading the alternator at idle.
Batteries should be at 13.2v or higher.

Levi

On 11/14/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Kaleb, its not just the volts that the alternator should be putting out (
 12.2 sounds ok) its the amps thats needed for keeping the battery charged.
 Have you checked all your grounds ? A bad ground could cause those symptoms
 since you said putting in a new battery worked, but the red battery light
 stays lit. That sounds to me like a weak ground on the battery side..

 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
 72 350SL 108,000 Miles
 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
 1999 Mazda Miata




Re: [MBZ] Got my oil sucker today

2005-11-14 Thread Tan Qu
Donald,

I had one of those Liqui-vac suckers. Be careful not
to use it when the oil is too hot. Mine collapsed and
had to exchange for a new one. It is great to service
the lawnmovers that's for sure - you don't have to
flip the thing over to get the old oil out!


Tan

--- Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I found one of the liquid-vac oil suckers on ebay
 for less than they
 sold it on their website.  I know that I can make a
 $2 topsider, but
 that would mean I would have to purchase a shop vac.
  I thought long and
 hard about that, because I really want a shop vac,
 but decided to tell
 my wife that is what I want for Christmas.  Anyway,
 I of course, got my
 new oil sucker after I sold my MB diesel.  So, I
 guess I will have to
 figure out how to use it on my 92 Olds 98 and my
 wife's Explorer.  I can
 use it on my lawnmower, too.  
 
  
 
 Now, that I can change my oil easily I think I am
 finally going to
 switch to Mobil 1.  After reading the hundreds of
 emails about Mobil 1 I
 figured I would try it.  Is the Mobil 1 10-30 just
 as good as the mobil
 1 T  SUV?   Any thoughts? 
 
  
 
 Donald H. Snook
 
 McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn  Herrington, P.A. 
 
 300 West Douglas
 
 P.O. Box 207
 
 Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
 
 Tel. (316) 263-5851
 
 This confidential message may be subject to the
 attorney-client
 privilege or protected by the attorney work-product
 doctrine. If you
 have recieved this message in error, please delete
 it and notify me.  
 
  
 
 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor:
 http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:

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Re: [MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm

2005-11-14 Thread Steve MacSween
Pindelski is/was I believe an engineer by profession was a fixture on the
'original' original Mercedes list, back as far as '95 and longer. IIRC it
was he who rebuilt his OM617 at home, guided step by step on the list by Stu
Ritter (first time Ritter had agreed to do that for someone).

His site has step by step pictorial guides to a pile of maintenance stuff
and some basic repair stuff, mainly for 126s IIRC. The quality is way beyond
the average for an individual effort on the Net, in the pro league. In fact,
some jobs are so 'broken down' in terms of steps that I found it a little
irritating (I printed most of the stuff off into a binder).

He also answers questions relating to the jobs and other stuff.

Worth it? For the beginner, indispensable, for the mid-range DIYer, good
extra reference. 

For an experienced DIY-er, I would still say yes if you have not yet
explored a 126, or have yet to do some large, fiddly shinola such as climate
control debugging.

He put a *lot* of time and effort into doing it and it's pretty much crystal
clear as I recall. The pics are mostly very good to excellent too.

Mac

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 What does the site privide and what's it worth?
 
 
 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 256-656-1924
 www.kegkits.com
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
 Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 3:33 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm
 
 $25/yr to subscribe - does anybody - is it worth it?
 
 Thanks, Chris 
 
 
 
 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger
 
 -
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used
 parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
 
 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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Re: [MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm

2005-11-14 Thread TimothyPilgrim
What's he got for a W123 wagon then?

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/14/05, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Pindelski is/was I believe an engineer by profession was a fixture on the
 'original' original Mercedes list, back as far as '95 and longer. IIRC it
 was he who rebuilt his OM617 at home, guided step by step on the list by Stu
 Ritter (first time Ritter had agreed to do that for someone).

 His site has step by step pictorial guides to a pile of maintenance stuff
 and some basic repair stuff, mainly for 126s IIRC. The quality is way beyond
 the average for an individual effort on the Net, in the pro league. In fact,
 some jobs are so 'broken down' in terms of steps that I found it a little
 irritating (I printed most of the stuff off into a binder).

 He also answers questions relating to the jobs and other stuff.

 Worth it? For the beginner, indispensable, for the mid-range DIYer, good
 extra reference.

 For an experienced DIY-er, I would still say yes if you have not yet
 explored a 126, or have yet to do some large, fiddly shinola such as climate
 control debugging.

 He put a *lot* of time and effort into doing it and it's pretty much crystal
 clear as I recall. The pics are mostly very good to excellent too.

 Mac

  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  What does the site privide and what's it worth?
 
 
  Thanks,
  Tom Hargrave
  256-656-1924
  www.kegkits.com
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Christopher McCann
  Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 3:33 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: [MBZ] http://www.pindelski.com/subscribe.htm
 
  $25/yr to subscribe - does anybody - is it worth it?
 
  Thanks, Chris
 
 
 
  Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
  -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
  -1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
  -1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf
  -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
  -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
  -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger
 
  -
  Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
  ___
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used
  parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 
 
 
  ___
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net


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Re: [MBZ] Stiff throttle

2005-11-14 Thread andrew strasfogel
So the spring is the car's equivalent of an appendix? Or is this an example
of don't try this at home?

On 11/11/05, wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Throttles on my 80 240D and 81 300D were exceedingly stiff 'til I removed
 coil sprng abt 3/4 inch dia by abt 6 inch long standing vertically in
 linkage between rear of engine and firewall. Drove 'em 250 kmi without
 that stiff spring.

 Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] Pindelski Subscription

2005-11-14 Thread James Jetton
I have used the subscription for 2 years now, I find his explanations helpful.  
He describes each step and illustrates with digital pictures.  I used his 
timing chain pictorial to change my chain with no difficulties.  Is it worth 
$25.00?  It is to me, others with have to make their own choice.


James S. Jetton
1987 560 SEL
1982 300D Turbo
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mon Nov 14 18:42:41 2005
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?
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Thanks - I will try the local sources.

On 11/14/05, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 $1.70, probably cheaper to get locally.

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



Re: [MBZ] screwed up 560SEL charging system

2005-11-14 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
12.2 is not enough, it needs to be over 13.1 at the minimum, should 
normally run 13.3 to 13.5 though.


Levi Smith wrote:


Uhh, unless I'm missing something, 12.2 isn't really enough. I would only
expect to see that if maybe you're overloading the alternator at idle.
Batteries should be at 13.2v or higher.

Levi

On 11/14/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Kaleb, its not just the volts that the alternator should be putting out (
12.2 sounds ok) its the amps thats needed for keeping the battery charged.
Have you checked all your grounds ? A bad ground could cause those symptoms
since you said putting in a new battery worked, but the red battery light
stays lit. That sounds to me like a weak ground on the battery side..

69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL 108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Rusty - fuel thermostat part availability?

2005-11-14 Thread andrew strasfogel
Not if you sell him 100!

On 11/14/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks - I will try the local sources.

 On 11/14/05, Rusty Cullens [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  $1.70, probably cheaper to get locally.
 
 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
 The FSM created the Diesel Benz
 http://www.venganza.org/

 ___
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Cell Phones in the car

2005-11-14 Thread Rhonald Angelo
Hi, make it three!  I don't own one either..my eyes are first focused on the 
road, my periphial vision on the 3 pointed star. I JUST talked to a buddy 
this morning...he got a call last night, and at that moment when the phone 
rang...pow!  Right into the back of someone's car.  Thankfully, he was not 
going that fast.  When are these people going to learn?


Rhonald
1985 300D
280,000 miles
Washington, DC

Original Message Follows
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cup Holder for1995 E320
Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 17:01:32 -0500

Dave M. wrote:
 I dream of the day when phones are banned nationwide from being used
 by the driver when the car is in motion.

 *sigh*


 -Dave M.
 (one of the last people on planet Earth who does not own a cell phone!)

That's two of us!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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[MBZ] If you want EGR blocking kits...

2005-11-14 Thread Christopher McCann
e-mail Brian:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] - and let him  know. He said he will be making 
a batch in a few weeks and will post  more info on the mercedessource forum.
  
  FYI.
  
  Chris
  


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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I'll personally vouch for Brian's trustworthiness--he's a good guy.

On 11/14/05, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 e-mail Brian:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] - and let him  know. He said he will be 
 makin=
g a batch in a few weeks and will post  more info on the mercedesshop forum=
.

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state
'87 300TD intercooler (210k)
'84 300D (205k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)



Re: [MBZ] Pindelski Subscription

2005-11-14 Thread Gary Hurst
pindelski used to be one of our biggest customers until jono drove him off.
he is a serious fellow. very anal. i imagine his work would be very good

On 11/14/05, James Jetton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I have used the subscription for 2 years now, I find his explanations
 helpful. He describes each step and illustrates with digital pictures. I
 used his timing chain pictorial to change my chain with no difficulties. Is
 it worth $25.00? It is to me, others with have to make their own choice.


 James S. Jetton
 1987 560 SEL
 1982 300D Turbo
 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] OT: For the Jeep freaks, interesting Grand Wagoneer

2005-11-14 Thread Kevin
On Fri, Nov 11, 2005 at 09:44:29PM -0800, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 I'm kind of toying with getting one of these.  Seems like the price of
 gas is driving down the used prices of all big SUVs and such.  This
 one looks nice, but look at the under-the-hood pics.  What's up with
 the driver's side of the engine?  Looks like there's something
 missing---a bunch of hoses that don't go anywhere.

Those look like spare radiator hoses. Nothing else under the hood of those
was both that big and rubber.

I'm not overly concerned about the sending unit needing to be replaced. I'd
want to see the oil gauge working before I bought it from a dealer, but I
have a mechanical gauge and sender I use for diagnosing these. Jeep gauges are
for amusement purposes only, and the real solution is the setup I have 
in a box for the 74 - basically redoing all the gauges with aftermarket
stuff. 86 and up are a little better, since the ammeter that could catch the
truck on fire was replaced with a voltmeter (that didn't have the entire
electrical system running through it). 86 and up also have dana44s front and
rear, like the earlier models - 80-85 had an amc corporate rear in them that
wasn't quite as rugged.

The AMC 360 never had a problem with the oil pump. The oil pump was 
extremely simple. Alan nailed it on the head saying he had to replace the
timing cover - the clearance between the [hardened] pump gears and the
[aluminum] timing cover will cause oil pressure problems. The transfer
case in the jeep in the auction has a viscous coupled NP-229, so it's probably
not a transfer case chain, but could be low fluid in either the trans or
transfercase, or a wiped out trans mount but is most likely universal joints.

I have two, the 74 has a straight six and a manual trans, the 77 has a 
401, automatic, and full time transfercase. The 74 gets 18-20 mpg, the 
77 used to get 12-13, but now is about 7. See Alan's comments about the 
motorcraft carburetor, it applies to the four barrel ones as well. The 74
has survived trails in stock trim (with 29 tires) that BLM has said not
to take a rig with less than 32 tires on. With 31s or 32s, you'll school
just about anything out there. The 401 never seemed to run out of steam
when it was used as the primary tow vehicle, and that includes dragging dead
cars up 6-7% grades.

K



[MBZ] Cell phones in the car

2005-11-14 Thread Donald Snook
Rhonald wrote: 

 

Hi, make it three!  I don't own one either..my eyes are first focused
on the 

road, my periphial vision on the 3 pointed star. When are these people
going to learn? 

 

Here's my opinion: 

 

I use a cell phone when I am driving.  Sometimes, I turn around and gets
things out of the back seat and steer with my knees.  Sometimes I shave
in the car while smoking a pipe or cigar and writing notes and talking
on the cell phone.  Now that I have the pimp daddy olds 98 (with a
million buttons on the dash) I can check my instant mileage, battery
volts, ETA, miles to destination, current time, temperature, oil life
indicator, and I can adjust all the mirrors while smoking a cigar,
talking on the cell phone, steering with my knees and trying to find
that french fry I just dropped between the seats.  Good thing I have
those steering wheel controls other wise I wouldn't have a free had to
check my call waiting on my cell phone.  

 

I do not have the driving experience that many of you possess and will
therefore not pontificate about how much I have driven.  I will however
say, that I often use my cell phone for conference calls while driving.
I have for a long time. I am 33. I had one wreck when I was 16 exactly
one week after I got my license.  I spilled my drink because my old 1978
olds Delta 88 did not have a cupholder. I looked down and the next thing
I knew I had run a light and t-boned a new (at the time) mustang.  (As a
side note, I totaled that poor mustang. I pushed the passenger door in
so far they could not open the glove box, broke the front axle, bent the
frame, and flattened the passenger tires.  I had to replace the blinker
cover on the Oldsmobile - that's all.) 

 

Donald H. Snook

1992 Olds 98 119K