The seat back locking vacuum on both front seats has not been working
for months, she told me today (1985 300CD). Does anyone know if
each seat operates independent of the other, or whether a leak in one
side affects the other as well? I checked under the hood and all
vacuum lines are intact.
andrew strasfogel wrote:
The seat back locking vacuum on both front seats has not been working
for months, she told me today (1985 300CD). Does anyone know if
each seat operates independent of the other, or whether a leak in one
side affects the other as well? I checked under the hood and all
I think it's worth it for improved shifting and possible extended syncro life
in the manny tranny.
Guys who tow heavy stuff with diesel pickups find that the diff runs cooler
with synthetic lube. If the diff is limited slip, you will need a friction
modifier to mix with the lube,
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
Listers,
What is the advantage of synthetic oil over conventional in a differential,
manual transmission, or similar mechanism, as opposed to in an engine where
the ability to suspend combustion byproducts is critical? Is it just that
the synthetic is less viscous when
each seat operates independent of the other, or whether a leak in one
side affects the other as well? I checked under the hood and all
They are in parallel, and if one leaks both will fail. There ought
to be a blue line under the hood, that is the seatback locking vacuum
source line. Got
actually, I think that might be the case.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
does the elevator even leave the basement?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL
The realtor? Why would the realtor care? You are not working with the
listing agent are you? You would be much better off working with a
different realtor that the one who has the property listed.
Curt Raymond wrote:
Wow Barry, thanks thats quite a reply!
While the realtor wasn't
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-Biofuel-Run-300-SDL-turbodiesel-BIOFUEL-PROVEN_W0QQitemZ4640221695QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
What it's worth depejnds on the difference between maket value if
running perfectlyand what it would cost to R/R th engine and
transmission...
On 5/14/06, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Sunil Hari wrote:
give him $500 and part it out.
How about giving him $500 and shipping in an OM604
As mentioned you should have a professional home inspector check
things out. Cost should be the same as having your friendly benz dealer
do a pre-buy car inspection for you.
Beside the last house we bought, armed with a long list of issues
from the inspector, we managed to talked the seller
That would explain things then
Marshall Booth wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-Biofuel-Run-300-SDL-turbodiesel-BIOFUEL-PROVEN_W0QQitemZ4640221695QQcategoryZ6336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
...and I was born on the planet Pluto!
Marshall
--
Thanks, Jim and Marshall. That's exactly what I needed. I'll run
some tests but my instinct says it's a faulty check valve or driver's
door jamb servo.
On 5/14/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
each seat operates independent of the other, or whether a leak in one
side affects the
I'll second the motion for a pro inspection. If nothing else, it will
give you a second opinion, and allow you to go in with your eyes open.
Like old Benz repairs, though, the real problem may be much more
extensive than what you see at first glance.
Gary Thompson
1913 Craftsman Bungalow
When i sold my house the buyer's inspector was a tough SOB who made
me correct a whole bunch of stuff. Few months latter we made an offer
on a house with an inspection contingency. I hired the same inspector
who had flunked my old place. Working for us, he found a water heater
that was
Thanks list, my blower problem is gone after disconnecting the aux water pump.
But the more important problem remains: blinker non op. I switched the hasard
switch a couple of times and the blinker worked this morning. Then this
afternoon no more. switched a zillion times but still not
On Sun, 14 May 2006 20:22:13 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The realtor? Why would the realtor care? You are not working with the
listing agent are you? You would be much better off working with a
different realtor that the one who has the property listed.
Indeed. And
Does anybody have any anecdotal evidence from M-Bs or anything else of,
say, differentials appearing to last longer because they had Mobil 1 in them?
Does anybody have any anecdotal evidence from M-Bs or anything else of, say,
differentials appearing to last longer because they
had Mobil 1 in
But the more important problem remains: blinker non op. I switched
the hasard switch a couple of times and the blinker worked this
morning. Then this afternoon no more. switched a zillion times but
still not working (left and right) at all.
Wonder if a new switch would do the trick?
Ever heard the expression Act in haste, repent at leisure?
My entire experience with foundation rot is what I have learned by watching
This Old House and Flip this House and the repair is always, replace the
damaged wood.
When selling time comes around, a home inspector is sure to find any
I assume you're talking about an automatic trans. I have found that the
manual trans. in my 83 240D (I realize that I only know about my particular
case) is fantastic - very smooth, quick and painless - and the clutch is so
forgiving, I consider it half-way between a manual and and automatic -
On 5/14/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have some first-person hands-on experience. Not in an MB but in my
Porsche.
I switched from Swepco to M1 75W90 in the transmission (I prefer not to
use
the Pontiac invented term, transaxle) and the improvement in shifting ease
was
Has anyone tried: Astoria 2000 (ARAFB3000) Universal Car C.V. Flex Boot?
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATSCategory=836
The boot is stretched with a $250 special air tool, slid over the can on
each end of the half-axle, released, and secured with two hose type clamps.
The
I too sent him a message saying the head was most likely cracked, not
counting the damaged caused by the diesel secret. Now respond to your
private email.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
I sent the guy an email asking where he got the idea that only 5% of these
heads cracked. Gave him the info that
Private email?
~I too sent him a message saying the head was most likely cracked, not
~counting the damaged caused by the diesel secret. Now respond to your
~private email.
~
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi)
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR
Daniel Konow wrote:
Thanks list, my blower problem is gone after disconnecting the aux water pump.
But the more important problem remains: blinker non op. I switched the hasard switch a couple of times and the blinker worked this morning. Then this afternoon no more. switched a zillion times
Yea, I will resend that private message.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Private email?
~I too sent him a message saying the head was most likely cracked, not
~counting the damaged caused by the diesel secret. Now respond to your
~private email.
~
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL,
Lung cancer, heart disease, and clogged arteries. Drive it like ya
stole it and it will cure it. Pour some old oil or tranny fluid in it
when you go for a test drive to get it really belching smoke, then offer
them $500 for it...
--R
Luther Gulseth wrote:
I'm going to look at a '91 300D
Hi,
Anyone have a CARFAX account...???
1992 500E - VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959
TIA,
Take care,
Chuck
Phoenix AZ
Hey, everyone, I sort of dropped off the face of the earth but now I'm
back Nice to 'see' you all again (huh?).
Okay, way back months ago I was talking about the 240d I picked up from
Mike, and the fact that I sorta lost one cylinder without warning, one
morning (excuse the rhyme). Number 1
Steve,
You can pull the head, pull the lower pan, ream #1 cyl ridge ring, pop
out #1 and repair the ring/replace the piston/whatever, and put it back
in w/o taking the engine out of the car.
More than likely the sleeve is within spec, and you can fix the car for
very few bux. Rings are cheap.
On 5/15/06 12:26 PM, Dennis Perkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A Bob Sirna owns the car and I was a little dissapointed that more of the
technical side of the car was shown. Does anyone know of this car and tell
us about it?
http://www.szwedo.com/gullwing.htm
Good advice, but in my experience over the years the problems is, that once
you get the head off things start to multiply like wabbits. The car has 300k
miles, so there's really no point in not having the head re-conditioned once
it's out... then while we're at it, what about the leaking seals...
Why not simply replace the engine with a good used one? Wouldn't that be
the cheaper option?
On 5/15/06, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Good advice, but in my experience over the years the problems is, that
once
you get the head off things start to multiply like wabbits. The car has
Marshall wrote (on the MBCA Forum) One cause results when the PRESSURE
(not vacuum) line clogs with a soot and oil residue at the junction with the
intake manifold. This is particularly common in cars with EGR and that have
been largely city driven for moderately short distances. The clog is
I've seen 2 methods for adjusting the ALDA - turning the set screw .5 to 1.5
turns or adding a shim.
Is there a preferred method? Why is one better than the other?
I need to adjust it and want to use the best method - I also plan to check
the pressure hose and and banjo fitting.
Thanks -
LoL, yes, duuude, that was my point (guess you didn't read my entire reply).
Mac
on 5/15/06 2:13 PM, andrew strasfogel at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Why not simply replace the engine with a good used one? Wouldn't that be
the cheaper option?
On 5/15/06, Steve MacSween [EMAIL PROTECTED]
How long do FI's last before they need to be cleaned?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
I assume you are talking about your diesel. Even on OM 621 engines, the
injector nozzles would last 150-200k miles. On my 603, I replaced the
nozzles at 300k, on principle, not because I could prove they were bad. I
would guess you should look for 300-500K on yours, based on better
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've seen 2 methods for adjusting the ALDA - turning the set screw .5 to 1.5
turns or adding a shim.
Is there a preferred method? Why is one better than the other?
I need to adjust it and want to use the best method - I also plan to check
the pressure hose and and
My '83 300D with 250K miles will miss on one cylinder while idling at a stop
light occasionally after driving at highway speeds. By the time I get home,
while driving more slowly, it's idling OK again. The car doesn't miss while
driving. I've never did anything to the injectors durng the
on 5/15/06 3:41 PM, archer at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm wondering if this is likely an injector problem or a
compression problem? If it's likely compression, I'll just live with it
until I have more time.
In my experience, it isn't that unusual to have a lumpy idle, when you've
returned
What a battle you've been having with that car! It sounds like I may be
dealing with a cylinder on my 1981 300CD that has low compression. I want
the opposite thing to happen, higher compression, better idle, easier
starting, etc. The temp is WY up in the 90's here, so she should fire
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Marshall wrote (on the MBCA Forum) One cause results when the PRESSURE
(not vacuum) line clogs with a soot and oil residue at the junction with the
intake manifold. This is particularly common in cars with EGR and that have
been largely city driven for moderately short
Loren Faeth wrote:
I assume you are talking about your diesel. Even on OM 621 engines, the
injector nozzles would last 150-200k miles. On my 603, I replaced the
nozzles at 300k, on principle, not because I could prove they were bad. I
would guess you should look for 300-500K on yours, based
Chuck Landenberger wrote:
Hi,
Anyone have a CARFAX account...???
1992 500E - VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959
CARFAX Vehicle History Report1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 500E
WDBEA36E5NB694959
SEDAN 4 DR
5.0L V8 EFI / REAR WHEEL DRIVE
CARFAX Safety Reliability Report
CARFAX Vehicle History - At A Glance
Thanks David -
that's *exactly* what I needed to hear about.
I believe my ALDA needs adjusting and wanted to know which was the easiest.
Marshall mentioned I should adjust it shortly after I described some
symptoms I was having. I'm finally getting around to it.
Thanks again --
Sincerely,
Hey Mac...If you decide you want to give up on the ole girl let me
know.I might buy it back from you.Found a 76 240D 4spd with 65K
miles and a very rusted body that would make a good donor with some
tinkering.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Steve MacSween [EMAIL
Yeah, well you are dealing with Mr. Obstinate here... Mike sold me the car
as a parts car, but I was so impressed with the shape it was in, I went
ahead and put money into it to get it inspected and onto the road, and I
drove it for a few months.
Pigheaded or not, however, I learned what little I
LoL, well believe it or not, the guy who dragged the 240d back here for me,
I THINK now has a fairly straight/intact 123 with a bad motor, probably was
a 300d.
He might part with it. Want me to ask?
Hilarious car exchange we may have going here
I really liked driving the dark blue car (man
David,
Thanks...
Chuck
On May 15, 2006, at 1:47 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:
Chuck Landenberger wrote:
Hi,
Anyone have a CARFAX account...???
1992 500E - VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959
CARFAX Vehicle History Report1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 500E
WDBEA36E5NB694959
SEDAN 4 DR
5.0L V8 EFI / REAR
Marshall wrote:your engine is more complex. If your
engine senses that the EGR is NOT working as it should, it defeats all
fuel enrichment the ALDA might
Marshall,
2 Questions - First - how do I check the EGR?
Next, I've tested 0-60 and it comes in around 13-14 sec. But other times,
it
FWIW, My 1980 300SD (348,000 miles) has original FI''s (and FI Pump)
that show no symptoms of needing any attention. Not driving her a
lot since I got the 16V, but do exercise her every week or so
Largely highway miles and quite a few track miles also.
Take care,
Chuck
Phoenix AZ
May as well, ask one more - what's the purpose of the EGR? I know it
stands
for Exhaust Gas Recirculation - but isn't all exhaust gas exited thru
the
exhaust? Recirculated where?
To the intake manifold. It's an emission thing, by replacing some
oxygen
in the intake stream with carbon
On May 15, 2006, at 12:05 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:
I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't
want to
give up.
So don't give up. How far are you willing to go? Piston/liner?
Rings? You may have already spent a good portion of the parts money
on snake oil.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Marshall wrote:your engine is more complex. If your
engine senses that the EGR is NOT working as it should, it defeats all
fuel enrichment the ALDA might
Marshall,
2 Questions - First - how do I check the EGR?
Next, I've tested 0-60 and it comes in around 13-14 sec.
Yeah I always suspected that the Doctor has twenty arms and three heads to
keep up with all the lists he (or should that be it) populates.
Well at least our alien friend brought us advanced oil technology in the
form of mobil 1.
So tell us Marshall (if that is your real name) how hard is it to
Bet it drives like a new car other than the engine. AMAZING how solid that
car is for the mileage. I guess I probably don't need to make a road trip
for a car right now.It would have to be a twin to yours if I did. That
color combo is perfect for the 123 chassis. I really don't like the
on 5/15/06 6:24 PM, John Berryman at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On May 15, 2006, at 12:05 PM, Steve MacSween wrote:
I am a stubborn bastid. I saw that car run ok and drove it. I don't
want to
give up.
So don't give up. How far are you willing to go? Piston/liner?
Rings? You may have
Original Message
Subject: 1982 300 CD Specifications
Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 11:21:35 -0400
From: Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Frank, in looking over the Technical Specifications on page 57,May/June
2006 issue, 1982 300 CD I noticed that the Valves
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've seen 2 methods for adjusting the ALDA - turning the set screw .5 to =
1.5 =
turns or adding a shim.
=
Is there a preferred method? Why is one better than the other?
I need to adjust it and want to use the best method - I also plan to chec=
k =
the pressure
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