You can get AC oring assortments at just about any parts store. When you
put the new Oring on, DO NOT lubricate it with ester or PAG oil used
with r134a, they will dry the new oring out and it will leak before
long. get a can of old style R12 mineral oil and lubricate the new
orings with that
No more free oil. I just went through that whole thing, it says to
click on it to join the free penzoil thing, but once you do a message
come up saying they're done with that one.
---Robert
Sunil Hari wrote:
http://www.firstdriversclub.com/login.jsp
if you become a (free) member of
I'm replacing the compressor and the dryer in an '83 240D.
According to the MB CD and the instructions that came with the new R-4
compressor from Rusty, oil must be drained from the old compressor and
measured, and new oil added to the new compressor according to a formula.
Can someone tell me
Paperwork. I log every gallon of fuel and every quart of oil that goes
into the car. YOu can extrapolate the miles from the fuel used -
assuming that you have an idea from previous experience of what the
fuel consumption is.
On the other hand, are you implying that you actually SELL cars? I
seem
I do the same thing. Any time anything is done to the
car, even something as minor as a car wash, it gets
logged.
Call it a bad habit.
Now if I could just take the time to put it all in an
Excel spreadsheet.
Dan
--- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Paperwork. I log every gallon of fuel and
Different stuff. That's vinyl repair, and no matter
how good of a job you do, it will be visible and not
last, either.
Two words:
Dash cover.
Dan
--- Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 19:04:24 -0700 (PDT) LWB250
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
www.leatherique.com
no kidding. Should have just kept it for that price
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 PP Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] i'm going
maybe
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 PP Supervisor
Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] i'm going insane
You should have accepted my first offer
for now maybe.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 PP Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] i'm going insane
Another '92 300D 2.5 Turbo I was
My 2.5 turbo sold on ebay, WAY TOO CHEAP. Geez. As cheap as it went, I
cant believe somebody here didnt buy it. Now THAT is insane.
You're right, $3,755.00 is cheap.
Craig
Local dealer had a 2.5 turbo 124 that for about the same, but without
the rash and a bit higher miles (I think
The 2.5 turbo used in the 300E is probably the best car diesel engine ever
produced by Mercedes.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Tony Wirtel
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 7:59 AM
To:
Can someone tell me how to drain the oil from the old compressor and
add oil
to the new compressor?
Umm, pour it out the holes and pour it in the same way?
Might take awhile to drain, and you should rotate it by
hand to help it along...
-- Jim
___
thats cheap
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 PP Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Tony Wirtel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] i'm going insane
My 2.5 turbo sold on ebay, WAY TOO CHEAP. Geez. As cheap
Wish you were closer
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 20:53:30 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] i'm going insane
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
speaking of
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Can someone tell me how to drain the oil from the old compressor and
add oil
to the new compressor?
Gerry
---
Umm, pour it out the holes and pour it in the same way?
Might take awhile to drain, and you should
I just by them Don, but I looked a LOTS and I've heard so many stories, if
they can't back it up with some paperwork, I just walk. I too keep similar
logs. Like Dan, I can tell you every gallon of gas that has gone through my
porsche from day one, including all parts, service and even drives.
I had to replace my tank (1983 300TD) due to a leak as you describe. Unless
the price of a new one has gone down I recommend you purchase a good used
one.
On 7/21/07, Scott Ritchey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My opinion is you can cap them off but don't fill the tank more than about
3/4 full
I've got one in my 230E that says 430,000kmhs, it may die tommorrow or in 20
years time but it will fail (well I think it is starting to slip, so
tommorrow is probably a better guess than 20 years).
Perhaps the previous owner of the 230TE, that odo came from never used the
reset button, no way
Howdy -
I am replacing my rotors calipers on the - 91 300D 2.5t W124 - and
flushing the brake fluid as I bleed the system. I am using a Pressure
Bleeder and maintaining 20 + #'s on the bleeder. I am using Ate Blue
brake fluid so I can tell when fresh fluid has filled the part of the system
I woud have thought pulling a vacuum would remove any existing oil. with
new oil added (IIRC) the same as freon is added.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber
I swapped out a combination gauge (with a dead clock) in the SWMBO 1985
300CD turbodiesel coupe Saturday at an MB Club DIY tech session. After I
reinstalled the instrument cluster the temp gauge and fuel gauge now bounce
around erratically and the glow plug light comes on intermittently. I am
The 123's where the worst affected out of all MB's in regards to odo
failure, guess they had a few too many come back broken and decided to
increase quality standards.
However the 124 and 201 chassis have not yet done the avearge mileage of the
123 chassis.
- Original Message -
From:
My faithful 1983 300TD wagon has 282 K miles and sits outside so it has some
rust issues. Should I sell it as, is or pony up the $$s to address the rust
and perhaps even repaint it for the third time? I have owned it since 1989
and the car is more or less 100 percent functional save for the
Fix the rust - it's worth more to you than to anyone else.
On 7/23/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My faithful 1983 300TD wagon has 282 K miles and sits outside so it has
some
rust issues. Should I sell it as, is or pony up the $$s to address the
rust
and perhaps even
LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I woud have thought pulling a vacuum would remove any existing oil.
with new oil added (IIRC) the same as freon is added.
I don't know much about A/C servicing, but in general pulling a vacuum
will only remove gases from the system. Unless the oil evaporates
I had a similar situation on my 240D once. Temp pegged and the fuel ticked with
the clock.
Somehow I had managed to screw up the ground in the cluster. I ran a new line
from the cluster and all was well.
-Curt
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2007 11:14:53 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I just got into the habit of keeping a little address
type binder (one of those little 3-ring things) in my
driver's map pocket. When I get in the car first
thing in the morning, I record the date and mileage.
If I get gas, I record that, and write the mileage on
the receipt.
If I do any work
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
My faithful 1983 300TD wagon has 282 K miles and sits outside so it
has some rust issues. Should I sell it as, is or pony up the $$s to
address the rust and perhaps even repaint it for the third time? I
have owned it since 1989 and the car is more
I woud have thought pulling a vacuum would remove any existing oil.
Not a chance. The flow rate is too slow to pick up the (heavy)
oil and drag it along, and once there is a partial vacuum the
transport mechanism pretty much stops. Of course, if you're using
R143a oil it will evaporate under a
My faithful 1983 300TD wagon has 282 K miles and sits outside so it
has some
rust issues. Should I sell it as, is or pony up the $$s to address
the rust
and perhaps even repaint it for the third time?
Fix rust and repaint if you're going to keep it and you want it
nice, you'll never get
Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
if you're using R143a oil it will evaporate under a deep vacuum,
this is one reason that de-moisturizing a R134a system with vacuum
doesn't work so well.
Really? Does that mean you can get the R134a oil out of a sytem for a
reverse-conversion by just
Vacuum will only remove what turns to a vapor. This is why vacuum will
not remove oil will only remove water if it's warm enough.
Tom
www.kegkits.com
Original Message
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 07/23/07 10:11 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re:
Perhaps a dumb question - why are you installing a R-4 compressor? I
thought the only ones used in automotive applications were R-12 and R-134a?
What's the advantage to using R-4?
On 7/23/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
if you're using R143a
Sunil, R4 is the name of the compressor. It was a GM unit used in most
Benzes from 1981 to 1985.
Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
Tel 1-800-741-5252
Fax 770-454-9745
- Original Message -
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent:
- Original Message -
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Perhaps a dumb question - why are you installing a R-4 compressor? I
thought the only ones used in automotive applications were R-12 and
R-134a?
What's the advantage to using R-4?
If the car is all original, I would rather buy a car and see what I'm
getting and just adjust the price I pay. Always wonder about those cars
with fresh paint that are being sold. What are they hiding?? :-) Sure you
could fully document the paint and rust work, but I don't if such effort and
On 7/22/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
speaking of wagons, I bought this really nice 87 300TD, red with tan,
150k on it. Had it about a month, only drove it once. Geez, I shouldnt
let it sit, wonder what I should do with it.
Hey, my favorite color combo! I want, especially
where are you at?
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 PP Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] i'm going insane
Wish you were closer
Date: Sun,
In a message dated 7/22/2007 9:42:45 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
My A/C has a slow leak since conversion to the new R. Is there a kit of
O-Ring for a 123 to solve the problem
If there is a fitting too difficult to turn, can a matte of
exposy wrapped
R-4 has nothing to do with the type of refrigerant, it is the type of
compressor, its a rotary compressor.
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 PP Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday,
save it
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 PP Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] i'm going insane
My faithful 1983 300TD wagon has
On 7/22/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Two weeks ago the SDL started loping at idle - not enough to see the
tach needle swing, but enough to be disconcerting. Two days ago the
ACC stopped working - totally. No response to any button. The
indicator light for the mono valve stayed off.
The inside diameter of the brake lines isn't very big , they don't hold
all that much fluid. The new stuff generally appears at the bleeders
pretty quick, especially if using a pressure bleeder and you've removed
all the old fluid from the reservoir before starting.
--Robert
LarryT wrote:
At what RPM should I peg my oil gauge? IIRC, on my 617 it pegs by 1400 or
lower. On my 92 300D 2.5T it doesn't peg till almost 1800-2000.
If thats not right what all do I need to look into? The first thing I'd think
is the o-rings on the oil filter stem. Anything else?
Also, I think the
I would seriously consider replacing all the brake
lines at this time as well. As they age they swell
internally, cutting down on the amount of fluid and
pressure that can reach the calipers.
It's a cheap part and the difference is noticeable.
Worst case scenario, you get a line that has
If you're selling an 87 W124 300TD for only $2.5 in such a pretty color
combo what's the catch?
On 7/23/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
save it
---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730 PP Supervisor
- Original Message -
From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL
You have to decide if you are tired of the car and want something else. If so,
it would be a waste of your effort
to make repairs. If you are not ready to move on, then get it fixed - assuming
the rust is not too bad - as at
least you know the car. A new old car carries a lot of potential risk
On 7/22/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
speaking of wagons, I bought this really nice 87 300TD, red with tan,
150k on it. Had it about a month, only drove it once. Geez, I shouldnt
let it sit, wonder what I should do with it.
I casually mentioned the above fact to SWMBO, and
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2007-07-22-sprinter_N.htm
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
And the failure has nothing to do with when the reset button is set.
Thanks, Tom
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: 7/22/07 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Odo reset 190DT
All VDO odometers
Thx Dan,
Yep, way ahead of you. Actually, I was going to replace all the rubber
lines and flush the brake fluid when I discovered a chimpanze had worked on
the calipers at some point in the past. All 4 bleeders ere rounded off like
they'd been tightened with a pair of pliers. Rather than
Larry,
I would encourage you to begin soaking the fittings
with penetrating lube if you haven't already. As for
the ones that the gorilla rounded off, try taking a
pair of ViceGrips to them once they've been soaking
for a couple of days.
It's not an ideal approach, but it's worked for me on
a
Nice.
We have a family in the next neighborhood over who
have about 8 kids. They bought one of these (just the
regular passenger version, not a custom) a few years
ago when they first came out.
I'm not sure if it's a diesel or not - never paid that
much attention.
Dan
Mmm, my dealer had one in which my wife lusted after, it was ony $80k
ish (used) I think it was $120k or so to the original buyer
so I'd think $400K is a lot of gold faucets or something.
Still it looked quite nice, like a normal sprinter van until you got
closer and saw it had another 4
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2007-07-22-sprinter_N.htm
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
John M McIntosh wrote:
Still it looked quite nice, like a normal sprinter van until you got
closer and saw it had another 4 feet or so of length on the back
as compared to the other sprinters I see running about.
Just made me remember about one I saw coming back from Ohio... it was a
normal
No one is saying that reseting on the move once or twice a year is a big
deal, however when it becomes a habit then the problems start.
Think of it a sending a shock through the system, everything is turning
nicely and you slam the brakes on. Would you regularly lock up the rear
wheels via the
It seems than at Mon, 23 Jul 2007 08:50:03 -0700, Jim wrote:
This morning's Chicken Wagon update:
It's a W123, isn't it?
I removed the failing odometer from the car. I looked at putting
cyanoacrylate glue on the shaft, and even tried a bit, but it didn't
want to wick into where it needed
It seems than at Tue, 24 Jul 2007 10:17:56 +0930, Hendrik wrote:
No one is saying that reseting on the move once or twice a year is a big
deal, however when it becomes a habit then the problems start.
Think of it a sending a shock through the system, everything is turning
nicely and you
Jim Cathey wrote:
Anyway, I knurled the shaft where the metal drive gear
seats using a pair of pliers. ... I had to tap the
shaft into its final position with a hammer as the knurling made for a
tight fit.
I grabbed mine with the Snap-On needle nose pliers, put the knurling
right where I
I know it is hard to understand but there is a whole bunch of places outside
the US of A. A lot of those places have vehicles which are not available in
the good ole USA. Like the 230TE.
Just like other parts of the world never got models available in the good
ole USA like the Diesel S class
Well you have just explained why it is a bad idea to reset on the move.
What causes more wear/damage? Shifting gears while stationary with the
engine off or shifiting gears while on the move?
- Original Message -
From: Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List
I might be committing heresy here, but I'm looking for my next car and I saw
a BMW (I know, I know) - 1988 535i, 160Kmi, 1 owner, no rust, maintained as
if I'd drive it forever.
Any listers out there know anything about these cars? Problem areas?
Should I consider it or run away screaming?
--
You will soon have deep pockets. Buy it.
On 7/23/07, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I might be committing heresy here, but I'm looking for my next car and I
saw
a BMW (I know, I know) - 1988 535i, 160Kmi, 1 owner, no rust, maintained
as
if I'd drive it forever.
Any listers out there
It's a W123, isn't it?
Yes.
You needed to remove the face to repair the odometer drive gear?
Didn't _have_ to, but felt safer doing so. I didn't want to
scratch up the cosmetics.
Wow. Every time I have done it I slid in a temporary shaft. A
drill bit has worked well, or a bailing wire.
Think of it a sending a shock through the system, everything is turning
nicely and you slam the brakes on. Would you regularly lock up the rear
wheels via the handbrake? No, why not?
The first thing the knob does is lift off the driving idler gear,
then the dials free-spin back to zero. There
Perhaps a dumb question - why are you installing a R-4 compressor? I
thought the only ones used in automotive applications were R-12 and
R-134a?
What's the advantage to using R-4?
R-4 stands for a radial 4-cylinder design. The slightly earlier
compressor (as used in 450's) was the A6, an
Really? Does that mean you can get the R134a oil out of a sytem for a
reverse-conversion by just pulling a vacuum for a while? I thought
you had to flush everything out.
If by a 'while' you mean a decade or so, sure!
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
I think they're great cars. I don't own one, but many friends do. I feel
they're ever bit as reliable as a benz; those that I know would say even
more so, and most of them have owned Mercedes too. The inline 3.5 is great
and very smooth. I have a couple of friends with them in both 3 and 5
Just pour it out of the hose connections.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
Thx Dan,
Will give it a try - I have a fresh can of PB Blaster and some vice grips
with nice sharp teeth - but I'm not looking forward to doing all that work
laying on my back! ;-)
Thanks for the suggestions --
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and
They aren't on the same fuse - but I did replace the fuse for the EDS,
since I replaced all of them. I didn't notice that one being bad, but
it sure runs better with all new fuses - and my pistons aren't
melting!
Interesting, I wouldn't have guessed that the ACC and the EDS idle
control were
Does it come with a polo shirt and fancy sunglasses or do you have to
get that separately?
--- Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I might be committing heresy here, but I'm looking for my next car
and I saw
a BMW (I know, I know) - 1988 535i, 160Kmi, 1 owner, no rust,
maintained as
if I'd
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: Admin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 2:58 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Today's Diesel Prices
** ** ** *
**** *
On 7/23/07, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I might be committing heresy here, but I'm looking for my next car and I saw
a BMW (I know, I know) - 1988 535i, 160Kmi, 1 owner, no rust, maintained as
if I'd drive it forever.
Any listers out there know anything about these cars? Problem
Following recommendations I have been holding off on adding any oil to
the 240D until the level reaches the add notch.
I've been noticing a less than ideal level of valvetrain noise coming
from under the hood.
I went ahead and added a pint today. The level before adding was a tad
above the add
- Original Message -
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Just pour it out of the hose connections.
Peter
The manual (CD) mentions measuring and adding oil to the compressor if
you're working on some other part of the system. In that case it
77 matches
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