Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

Curt Raymond wrote:

Yup, 90 miles a day. Analysis at ~5000 miles showed soot at .6% but grade had 
fallen to 40. I think I was sloppy and didn't get all the old conventional oil 
out, it was February, I was working outside, sue me.
  I took another sample when I changed at ~7300 miles, we'll see what that 
shows.


Changing the oil when the soot level is 0.6% is wasting more than 2/3rds 
of the soot suspension standard that Mercedes sets (which is 1/2 of what 
most manufacturers set as a limit). If soot levels increase in a linear 
manner (may or may not) then based on what you've said, the oil is 
likely to be changed after~ 15,000+ miles. I don't have ANY idea what 
"grade had fallen to 40" means, but in a properly running Mercedes 
diesel, soot capacity is by far the most challenging spec. when running 
a group IV or IV/V synthetic oil. Base number even after 25-30kmi should 
still be entirely adequate even using a CF rated oil and with a CH-4 or 
CI-4 oil it should last a LOT longer.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

2006-06-27 Thread Peter Frederick

Loren:

If there is no restriction in the return line, there will be zero 
pressure in the IP and the plunger sets will bounce the air bubble 
forever, you need that 10-15 psi to push the fuel in.  You should have 
fuel overflow the IP with the pressure valve holders out and some fuel 
pressure applied with that electric pump.  If so, verify that you have 
either a banjo bolt with small hole in the return fitting, or a 
spring-loaded relief valve.


Not unheard of the swap the restriction bolt to the inlet on older 
pumps, they were identical thread.  I don't believe that is possible on 
the 603


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Would like to use smaller fan belt and bybass AC pulley. What size do I need? For 1987 300D turbo

2006-06-27 Thread Peter Frederick
Unless the clutch is dragging, you are not losing any milage by running 
the belt around the pulley.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-27 Thread Curt Raymond
Has anybody ever gotten a shop to use one of the alternate refridgerants? I'd 
like to use Autofrost but don't have the space or tools (no vacuum pump and 
more importantly nowhere to plug it in) to do it myself. I'd like to find 
somebody who could do it, I'd pick up the AutoFrost and have somebody else to 
do the work. Even better would be somebody who'd let me help so I could see how 
its done.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2006 13:10:58 -0400
From: "Scott Ritchey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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But also consider an alternative like Envirosafe ES12a, see
http://autorefrigerants.com/.  This is probably a DIY solution.  I 
tried
ES12a recently and was very pleased. They also sell hoses that connect 
to
the R12 low side as well as a dryer product and little gizmos to check 
AC
oil quality/quantity.  I haven't tried their sealer products.  There 
are
other refrigerants, like Freeze 12 but I haven't tried them.  They have 
a
kit with 3 cans and a hose for $70 as I recall.  No need to change the 
oil
(stay with mineral oil) and the pressures are same or lower than R12, 
both
are big advantages in my mind.


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The plunger sets may indeed just be full of air, and you must 
pressurize the pump to get it out.  Supplying pressurized fuel with the 
pressure valve holders out will also purge any air, or remove the 
pressure valve and spring and crank with the lines loose -- this should 
force fuel out the plunger sets.  You should also be able to see the 
plungers moving up and down with the pressure valve holder off if you 
look straight down.

If the rack is moving you problem isn't a stuck rack

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread Jim Cathey

Thanks for the suggestion.  Am I correct in assuming that the low oil
light and the oil pressure gauge are on separate circuits?


Yes, completely unrelated circuits, except that they do share grounds.
(Both engine and inside the cluster.)

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Curt Raymond
Yup, 90 miles a day. Analysis at ~5000 miles showed soot at .6% but grade had 
fallen to 40. I think I was sloppy and didn't get all the old conventional oil 
out, it was February, I was working outside, sue me.
  I took another sample when I changed at ~7300 miles, we'll see what that 
shows.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 12:33:05 -0400
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

If you are driving 90 miles a day, I think that 10-15kmi oil change 
intervals MAY be possible. An oil analysis (that includes soot %) at 
about 7kmi should be the starting point.

That could work out to a change about twice a year!

Marshall
-- 
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   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?
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> Hey Jim, thanks for the link.  Are you still running the 
> isobutane/propane
> mix in your rigs?  I was recently given an ancient Bear brand A/C 
> recovery

Yah, you betcha.  Went out to lunch today in the 450 SL (still for sale
guys!) and the car's outdoor thermometer read 95-100 degrees.  The AC
was blowing nice cold air on me, courtesy of $7 worth of R600a/R290.

> hoses and fittings.  I gather it would be unwise to operate the vehicle
> without an auxillary electric fan, eh?

You'd probably get away with it, especially if your system has an
overpressure cutout.  (I think they do by then.)  You could always
wire the aux fan power lead to a relay to cut out the AC compressor,
if you were worried about it.

> I have the R-12 gauges, vacuum pump and new dryer, but I guess I 
> should get
> an IR thermometer and some isobutane at the local outdoor store, but I 
> don't
> know where to find mineral oil (there's currently none in the system 
> right

I got mine at Schuck's.  NAPA might be another source.  The IR 
thermometer
is handy, but not absolutely necessary.

> now).  Not sure what to tell my co-worker, a local shop's phonebook ad 
> says
> they work on R12 systems, but their website indicates that these must 
> be
> converted to 134a.  I think the typical older vehicle owner is ass-out.

Yep.  You could co-op with your coworker, split the cost of any capital
equipment required (gauge set?  thermometer?  beer?) to do the cars, and
do them both together.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Tektronix 'scopes (was: Re: OM60X low-oil circuit board)

2006-06-27 Thread Jim Cathey

That's too bad.  I wonder if it has anything to do with it being a
"portable" 'scope -- it may have been knocked around some, in its
previous life.


Hard to say.  The price was right, at the time.  Is definitely superior
to the Griefkit, when it works.  I have it buried in the bench as a
bench scope, the plan was always to put a 2465 there and make the 2336
portable again for general troubleshooting.  But 2465's stink, so now
I don't know what I'll do.


700-series mainframes?



Probably.  Was that the one with the vector-drawn on-screen display for
sweep and vertical amplifier settings?  I remember that being pretty
cool when it worked, but the chip that drove it seemed to be prone to
failure.


Yeah, that's what I recall.  Might be 7000-series.

-- Jim




[MBZ] 9 blade fan

2006-06-27 Thread P. D. Ferguson
   I see Rusty offers a 9 blade plastic radiator fan for the 
123s, compared to the stock  6 blade aluminum one.  Has anyone tried the 9 
blade one to see if it offers any noticeable cooling improvement?  Is it 
noisier?

  Peter Ferguson
  1983 300TD 



Re: [MBZ] Battery Demand calculator

2006-06-27 Thread David Brodbeck
I'd add one more disclaimer -- that the amp-hour ratings on batteries
usually assume discharging to a pretty low level, one below the point at
which most inverters will cut out.  I don't remember the exact figure,
but I think it's something like 10.5 volts.  You may only get 50% of the
rated power out of the battery before the voltage drops too low for the
inverter to run.

There's a really excellent article on batteries and RV power here:
http://www.phrannie.org/battery.html


Zeitgeist wrote:
> This pre-beta version of a battery demand calculator was posted over on a
> Vanagon listserv.  Thought some of you electro-savvy types would like to
> take a look and critique.
>
> http://www.altavistaaudio.com/Westy/Vanagon/battcalc.html
>
>   




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Jeff Zedic
Give me the tube numbers and I'll see if I can find them. I have a LOT 
of tube connections.


Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD




[MBZ] Battery Demand calculator

2006-06-27 Thread Zeitgeist

This pre-beta version of a battery demand calculator was posted over on a
Vanagon listserv.  Thought some of you electro-savvy types would like to
take a look and critique.

http://www.altavistaaudio.com/Westy/Vanagon/battcalc.html

--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread David Brodbeck
Curt Raymond wrote:
> Isn't that what happens when the rubber o rings on the oil filter stalk 
> thingus fail?
>   

I don't think it's anywhere near that dramatic.  On my '83 300D Turbo
they were so hard I had to chip them out with a screwdriver to replace
them, but replacing them made very little difference in the gauge
reading.  I think it may have reduced the pulsation at idle slightly,
but the average reading was the same before and after -- about 1.3 bar
at hot idle.




Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

2006-06-27 Thread David Brodbeck
John M McIntosh wrote:
> I think on the www.bobistheoilguy.com forums http:// 
> theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
> they have a contest for who runs their mower the  longest without  
> ever changing the oil, something like 20  years?
>   

Mower engines tend to be really over-built.  I recall reading somewhere
that a guy had played around to see what he could put in the crankcase
of an old Briggs and Stratton engine and still get it to run...he found
that even water worked, but once it boiled off the engine would seize.



[MBZ] Tektronix 'scopes (was: Re: OM60X low-oil circuit board)

2006-06-27 Thread David Brodbeck
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I have a 2336 that has already lost the HV once, and now has an
> intermittent focus.  Not a very robust model as it turns out.
>   

That's too bad.  I wonder if it has anything to do with it being a
"portable" 'scope -- it may have been knocked around some, in its
previous life.

>> In college we used the modular Teks, but I can't recall the model
>> numbers.
>> 
>
> 700-series mainframes?
>   

Probably.  Was that the one with the vector-drawn on-screen display for
sweep and vertical amplifier settings?  I remember that being pretty
cool when it worked, but the chip that drove it seemed to be prone to
failure.

> Keeps the face of the CRT from sucking dust to it?  And other related
> secondary effects.  Puts the nasty HV far away from the front of the
> device, and allows things like the deflection plates (driven by all
> that circuitry) to not be at high voltage relative to the chassis.
> Simpler, safer, and more reliable.  In a TV, the deflection is
> magnetically coupled.
>   

Yeah, that makes sense.  I suppose part of the reason they don't do it
that way on TVs is price -- it means using an isolated, high-voltage
insulated power transformer winding for the filament voltage.

> We used the 503 in school, it was a differential input scope.  5 MHz?
>   

That was the one!



Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread David Brodbeck
archer wrote:
> What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth?  I 
> have one but it's buried in the attic and I don't remember the name.  I was 
> concerned about getting replacement tubes but a friend who sells tubes on 
> the internet said there would be no problem.
>   

Probably not much.  Replacement tubes aren't the issue; it's the sheer
bulk and weight of the thing.  I gave my 503 away when I moved because I
didn't want to haul it around.  The bandwidth on them is low enough that
they're not very useful for actual troubleshooting work, these days;
they can do audio and IF frequencies in radio gear but you need at least
10 MHz to do TV work.  The one I had was Navy surplus, so there probably
were a lot of them kicking around at one point.



Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-27 Thread Zeitgeist

Hey Jim, thanks for the link.  Are you still running the isobutane/propane
mix in your rigs?  I was recently given an ancient Bear brand A/C recovery
unit (minus some key components), so now I have access to lots of spare R-12
hoses and fittings.  I gather it would be unwise to operate the vehicle
without an auxillary electric fan, eh?  I had to remove mine when I
reconfigured the front end for the intercooler installation.  The coolant
temps never even approach 100C under non-A/C driving situations.  I'm
convinced the intercooler helps to mitigate heatsoak during prolonged
highload conditions, like steep grades and such.

I have the R-12 gauges, vacuum pump and new dryer, but I guess I should get
an IR thermometer and some isobutane at the local outdoor store, but I don't
know where to find mineral oil (there's currently none in the system right
now).  Not sure what to tell my co-worker, a local shop's phonebook ad says
they work on R12 systems, but their website indicates that these must be
converted to 134a.  I think the typical older vehicle owner is ass-out.

On 6/27/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


  http://cathey.dogear.com/cwair.html



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread LarryT
Have you owned & maintained the car since new?  I had a 280S that the PO 
failed to have regular oil changes - the intake screen on the oil pump 
pickup was partially clogged with debris and it would act as you describe as 
it starved for oil.  Had another used MB with similar symptoms that had a 
main bearing fail.


Those are extreme possibilities - especially if the maintanence history is 
questionable - checking the gauge 1st is the prudent thing to do.


Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "J.B. Hebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure



Grrr... totally forgot to mention the car is a '95 E300D with 214,000
miles running on M1 5W40.

At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:


On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.

Thanks,


J.B. Hebert

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Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

2006-06-27 Thread LarryT

Curt wrote: << the MTD had thrown a rod CLEAN OUT THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE>>

Hi Curt,
   My Craftsman pushmower did something similar - pulled the rope and it 
was *very* easy to pull - it appears the rod has broken allowing the crank 
to turn without creating any compression - It might be worth fixin but when 
the grass needs cutting, time is important so we bought a new mower.  When I 
get time (yeah, right) I might pull it apart to see how bad it is - and to 
check the prices of con rods.


   I try to use M1 in my mowers to but it sounds like they make more engine 
noise with it - but it might be my paranoia

.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil thread


Note: What follows is an attempt to humorous, please do not attempt to 
inject any measure of serious discussion into this. I've recently 
discovered I hate my job and am now taking steps to introduce serious 
levity into my dreary little life...


 Last month at camp Dad and I were getting out the lawnmower so we could 
mow where we were planning to plant trees. We're developing a treefarm you 
see and planting in short grass is much more pleasant than tall grass. SO 
I asked dear old Dad if we shouldn't change the oil in said 4 year old 
13hp MTD mower. Nah, he said, it started well enough, its got plenty of 
oil in it, it'll be fine.
 Note here that last year when I changed the oil I didn't put in the 
synthetic oil I usually use because we didn't have enough hanging around 
AND we'd discovered that when filled with Mobil 1 10w30 my Grandmothers 
old Craftsman rear engine 8hp leaks badly. So I'd used just regular 10w30.


 Dad mowed a patch and then quit for lunch, after lunch he went out mowing 
again and I took my 7hp Cub Cadet out to grade the camp road with its back 
blade. Within about 10 minutes I noticed Dad strolling down the camp road 
so I quit gradeing and went over to see what was up.
 It turns out the MTD had thrown a rod CLEAN OUT THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE. 
Leaving a big old hole. "Gee thats what the bottom of the piston looks 
like


 So I'm blaming this entirely on the lack of Mobil 1 in the crankcase...

 On a side note with the MTD dead we needed to revive the backup mower 
which is an old (well '91 but its got a million hours on it) White 11hp. 
We got that running by jumpstarting it off the truck, one jumper cable to 
the frame, one to the starter...

 I put Mobil 1 in that RIGHT AWAY and it ran great.

 -Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

J.B. Hebert wrote:
I'm not sure the effect would be so immediate and 
drastic, unless one or both of the o-rings came 
off while I was putting it back together.  Both 
o-rings were pliable and had no signs of 
cracking.  I'll check this evening when I check the filter.


I can't imagine that even both little stem "O" rings failing would do 
what you've described, BUT if the big rubber seal inside the oil filter 
were displaced when installed and finally failed - THAT COULD DO IT!


That's quite rare, but it has been reported.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread J.B. Hebert
I'm not sure the effect would be so immediate and 
drastic, unless one or both of the o-rings came 
off while I was putting it back together.  Both 
o-rings were pliable and had no signs of 
cracking.  I'll check this evening when I check the filter.


J.B.

At 02:08 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:

Isn't that what happens when the rubber o rings 
on the oil filter stalk thingus fail?


  I changed the oil in my 190D last weekend and 
when I went to pull the o rings off they split 
into many little pieces and fell on the 
ground... Sure glad I thought to replace them.


  -Curt

  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 12:18:04 -0400
From: "J.B. Hebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-455D26F6

On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.

Thanks,


J.B. Hebert




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Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread Curt Raymond
Isn't that what happens when the rubber o rings on the oil filter stalk thingus 
fail?
   
  I changed the oil in my 190D last weekend and when I went to pull the o rings 
off they split into many little pieces and fell on the ground... Sure glad I 
thought to replace them.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 12:18:04 -0400
From: "J.B. Hebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed;
 x-avg-checked=avg-ok-455D26F6

On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was 
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went 
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to 
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted 
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on 
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of 
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and 
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went 
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After 
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the 
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil 
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and 
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or 
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just 
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car 
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on 
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even 
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter 
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears 
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and 
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for 
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.

Thanks,


J.B. Hebert




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Trampas wrote:
> Bad ground between engine and chassie?

High resistance in the circuit (like a loose ground) results in HIGH oil 
pressure reading.

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)



Re: [MBZ] Gumball, was: FSM comic

2006-06-27 Thread Curt Raymond
What about the 'vette splitting in half? "Did you know there was a hole there?"
   
  The old guys in the Mercedes are great.
  "Please drive at a rate befitting our age and status in life"
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 10:52:03 -0400
From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FSM comic
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
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Curt wrote:<< beautiful 2 seater of some sort >>

Hi Curt -
Thats a MB 300SL of the mid to late 50s.  It;s the roadster version of 
the 
300SL Gullwing.

Excellent movie BTW - I especially like the 6am start in Manhattan when 
the 
Ferrari and Cobra run thru the gearboxes with those glorious  sounds 
reflecting off the buildings - and there's 2 classic lines in that 
movie - 
one, when the Ferrari driver rips the rearview mirror off and throws it 
away 
while saying "Whatsa behinda you is no matter/"   and as the Ferrari 
hits 
top speed as a police helicopter tries to catch it the pilot says, 
"Hell, we 
don't have a fixed wing that'll keep up with THAT!"

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
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Marshall:

Thanks for the suggestion.  Am I correct in assuming that the low oil 
light and the oil pressure gauge are on separate circuits?  I'm still 
concerned that the problem was preceded by the low oil light, but 
maybe it's coincidence.

Thanks,

J.B.

At 01:10 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:

>J.B. Hebert wrote:
> > On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was
> > fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
> > out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
> > fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted
> > to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on
> > again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of
> > a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and
> > max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went
> > to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After
> > 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the
> > motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil
> > pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and
> > pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or
> > sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just
> > like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car
> > recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on
> > pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even
> > if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter
> > 

Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread Trampas
Bad ground between engine and chassie?

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 1:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

J.B. Hebert wrote:
> On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was 
> fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went 
> out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to 
> fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted 
> to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on 
> again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of 
> a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and 
> max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went 
> to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After 
> 10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the 
> motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil 
> pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and 
> pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or 
> sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just 
> like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car 
> recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on 
> pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even 
> if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter 
> bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears 
> that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and 
> the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for 
> further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.

Check the pressure transducer. Resistance should be a few ohms at NO 
pressure (engine not running) and a bit less than 200 ohms at 3 bar. If 
the oil pump were to fail, that could do it (but that's VERY rare unless 
the pump has ingested some metal debris - say from a disintegrating 
vacuum pump - that jams it) or if the overpressure valve in the oil 
filter housing or the one near the oil pump jam open.

Oil pressure transducer failures (they sometimes open and sometimes 
short) are FAR, FAR more common.

http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC2/Program/Chassis/54-0254.pdf

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

Jim Cathey wrote:

What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth?


Not too much, actually.  They're so big, and so hot, and so
persnickety, and so low-performing.  Hard to ship.


Also parts and many tubes are IMPOSSIBLE to obtain. I have a 502 sitting 
in the garage.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

2006-06-27 Thread John M McIntosh
I think on the www.bobistheoilguy.com forums http:// 
theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
they have a contest for who runs their mower the  longest without  
ever changing the oil, something like 20  years?


When I was in silicon valley in the 90's had to buy a lawnmower for  
the house I was renting for the summer, dropped by the salvation army  
thrift store and
picked up a used one for $5. "Just in, doesn't seem to work.". Took  
it home dumped out the 1/2 cup of molasses that was the oil, put  
fresh in, started right away,

run all summer, smoked a bit, but for $5

On 27-Jun-06, at 6:49 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

  It turns out the MTD had thrown a rod CLEAN OUT THE SIDE OF THE  
ENGINE. Leaving a big old hole. "Gee thats what the bottom of the  
piston looks like


  So I'm blaming this entirely on the lack of Mobil 1 in the  
crankcase...


John
1983 300TDt  368k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  171k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 176k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)





Re: [MBZ] Anyone happan to have downloaded the on-line manual section for IP removal?

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

Steve MacSween wrote:

on 6/24/06 10:53 AM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Sorry, thought I had put it into the subject line.

1982 240d.

Thx


Is this what you want?

http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/Engine/615/07-200.pdf


Yes, but when I tried to access it over the preceding days I got a 404 error
message.

Anyone else had problems with the braingears site?

Marshall's link worked fine.

Mac


If there are letters at the end of the pdf link (i.e. 
http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/605_606/18-1251a.pdf 
or 
http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC1/Program/Engine/605_606/18-6020ha.pdf) 
and get a "404 error," if I change the "18-1251a" or "18-6020ha to 
"18-1251A" and "18-6020HA" the links will work.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-27 Thread Jim Cathey
I was talking with a co-worker yesterday about getting the AC working 
in our
MBs.  She has a pristine '83 300D, and with the heatwave we're 
experiencing
up here--it's all relative folks--we'd both like to find a place 
locally to

re-charge our R12 systems without converting to 134a like all the shops
appear to propose.


DIY, my man.  We're talking about something like $50/car if you have
the tools.


Some place gave her an off-the-cuff quote of $1k to
convert her system over to 134a, which seems outrageous.  In my 
experience,


It is, and that's probably just about all you'll find.

most folks in the NW with cars old enough to require R12 don't ever 
bother

to try and fix them, hence my concern that no one does this around here
anymore.


Yeah, no surprise.


First question:  Do any shops up here even do R12 service anymore?


I'm sure there are some.

Second question:  How much is a reasonable fee for evacuating the 
system,

R&Ring the dryer and topping up the mineral oil and R12?


The R12 is the big price.  The rest ought to be a couple of hundred,
tops.

I really need to finally fix this in my car, but just can't find the 
time to
bother and track down the requisite R12 and mineral oil, and all the 
rest of

the stuff needed to pull it together.  I have the dryer and a brand new
evacuation pump, but no spare time.


Pity, because it'd only take an hour or two of your time.  Less, 
perhaps,
than you'd spend taking the car to a shop and retrieving it!  I'd 
suggest

experimenting with HC refrigerants.  http://cathey.dogear.com/cwair.html

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-27 Thread Scott Ritchey
Don't know about WA, but before I left FL, I had my R12 cars serviced
several times in the last year or two in the $100-200 range depending on how
much R12 they required.

But also consider an alternative like Envirosafe ES12a, see
http://autorefrigerants.com/.  This is probably a DIY solution.  I tried
ES12a recently and was very pleased. They also sell hoses that connect to
the R12 low side as well as a dryer product and little gizmos to check AC
oil quality/quantity.  I haven't tried their sealer products.  There are
other refrigerants, like Freeze 12 but I haven't tried them.  They have a
kit with 3 cans and a hose for $70 as I recall.  No need to change the oil
(stay with mineral oil) and the pressures are same or lower than R12, both
are big advantages in my mind.

There is much discussion on the safety of hydrocarbon refrigerants, even on
this list, so that's up to you.  Personally, I think high-pressure gasoline
(like any fuel-injected car) is probably more dangerous, but make your own
risk decision.

Scott Ritchey
Kittrell NC
1982 300SD 220K
1979 300TD 350K


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Zeitgeist
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 12:44
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?


I was talking with a co-worker yesterday about getting the AC working in our
MBs.  She has a pristine '83 300D, and with the heatwave we're experiencing
up here--it's all relative folks--we'd both like to find a place locally to
re-charge our R12 systems without converting to 134a like all the shops
appear to propose.  Some place gave her an off-the-cuff quote of $1k to
convert her system over to 134a, which seems outrageous.  In my experience,
most folks in the NW with cars old enough to require R12 don't ever bother
to try and fix them, hence my concern that no one does this around here
anymore.

First question:  Do any shops up here even do R12 service anymore?

Second question:  How much is a reasonable fee for evacuating the system,
R&Ring the dryer and topping up the mineral oil and R12?

I really need to finally fix this in my car, but just can't find the time to
bother and track down the requisite R12 and mineral oil, and all the rest of
the stuff needed to pull it together.  I have the dryer and a brand new
evacuation pump, but no spare time.

TIA

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)





Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

J.B. Hebert wrote:
On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was 
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went 
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to 
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted 
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on 
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of 
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and 
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went 
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After 
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the 
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil 
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and 
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or 
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just 
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car 
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on 
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even 
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter 
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears 
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and 
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for 
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.


Check the pressure transducer. Resistance should be a few ohms at NO 
pressure (engine not running) and a bit less than 200 ohms at 3 bar. If 
the oil pump were to fail, that could do it (but that's VERY rare unless 
the pump has ingested some metal debris - say from a disintegrating 
vacuum pump - that jams it) or if the overpressure valve in the oil 
filter housing or the one near the oil pump jam open.


Oil pressure transducer failures (they sometimes open and sometimes 
short) are FAR, FAR more common.


http://mb.braingears.com/124_DISC2/Program/Chassis/54-0254.pdf

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Anyone happan to have downloaded the on-line manual section for IP removal?

2006-06-27 Thread Jeff Zedic

Do you have Acrobat reader installed?? If you don't, there's your problem!

It downloads immediately to a pdf.

Jeff Zedic
Toronto
87 300TD



Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Jim Cathey

What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth?


Not too much, actually.  They're so big, and so hot, and so
persnickety, and so low-performing.  Hard to ship.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Would like to use smaller fan belt and bybass AC pulley. What size do I need? For 1987 300D turbo

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

RICHARD FIne wrote:

I would like to bypass my AC compressor and use a smaller fanbelt that will not 
attach to the AC compressor pulley. My system does not work, and would rather 
get the somewhat improved mileage.


And exactly what car/year do you own that uses power and fuel when the 
AC compressor isn't engaged?


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




[MBZ] Do any shops in the NW do R12 A/C service anymore?

2006-06-27 Thread Zeitgeist

I was talking with a co-worker yesterday about getting the AC working in our
MBs.  She has a pristine '83 300D, and with the heatwave we're experiencing
up here--it's all relative folks--we'd both like to find a place locally to
re-charge our R12 systems without converting to 134a like all the shops
appear to propose.  Some place gave her an off-the-cuff quote of $1k to
convert her system over to 134a, which seems outrageous.  In my experience,
most folks in the NW with cars old enough to require R12 don't ever bother
to try and fix them, hence my concern that no one does this around here
anymore.

First question:  Do any shops up here even do R12 service anymore?

Second question:  How much is a reasonable fee for evacuating the system,
R&Ring the dryer and topping up the mineral oil and R12?

I really need to finally fix this in my car, but just can't find the time to
bother and track down the requisite R12 and mineral oil, and all the rest of
the stuff needed to pull it together.  I have the dryer and a brand new
evacuation pump, but no spare time.

TIA

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG


Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

Curt Raymond wrote:

The 3 quarts I was able to get at Wal-Mart were like $5.40 a quart or so (don't 
remember exactly) and the 6 quarts I picked up at Autozone got me case pricing 
of like $36.50 or so (again not sure). Without the case price the Autozone oil 
was almost exactly $1/quart more, by the case of 6 it was a bit less.
  Frankly the ability to change the oil once every quarter while still driving 
90 miles a day is worth it to me. If it takes me an hour to change the oil 
thats around $25 for my labor, plus like $8 for the filter which pretty nearly 
pays for the oil right there.
   
  I changed at 7,000 miles, soot was at .6% but the grade had fallen to sae 40 I'm guessing because of of leftover conventional oil from my last change, hey it was February and I was working fast...


If you are driving 90 miles a day, I think that 10-15kmi oil change 
intervals MAY be possible. An oil analysis (that includes soot %) at 
about 7kmi should be the starting point.


That could work out to a change about twice a year!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread J.B. Hebert
Grrr... totally forgot to mention the car is a '95 E300D with 214,000 
miles running on M1 5W40.


At 12:18 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:


On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.

Thanks,


J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D


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--
Current Vehicles:

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'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
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Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread Michael
Yeah, replace the gauge.  Or install a 2nd gauge.  A mechanical style with no 
electrical sending unit.

what kind of car is this?

-Michael

-Original Message-
>From: "J.B. Hebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Jun 27, 2006 12:18 PM
>To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>Subject: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
>
>On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was 
>fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went 
>out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to 
>fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted 
>to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on 
>again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of 
>a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and 
>max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went 
>to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After 
>10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the 
>motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil 
>pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and 
>pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or 
>sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just 
>like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car 
>recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on 
>pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even 
>if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter 
>bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears 
>that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and 
>the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for 
>further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>J.B. Hebert
>
>--
>Current Vehicles:
>
>'76 Ford Bronco
>'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
>'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
>'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
>'93 GMC Sierra 2500
>'95 Mercedes E300D 
>
>
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"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the 
strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them 
better.  The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, 
whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives 
valiantly; who errs, and comes short again and again, because there is 
no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive 
to do the deeds;  who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions; 
who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end 
the truimph of high achievement, and who at the worse, if he fails, at 
least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with 
those cold and timid souls who know neither victory nor defeat"

--President Theodore Roosevelt (1910 Paris, France)





[MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure

2006-06-27 Thread J.B. Hebert
On my way into work today my low oil light came on.  Oil pressure was 
fine, so I continued on another minute or 2 and the light went 
out.  A few miles later I noticed that my oil pressure had started to 
fall.  When it dipped below .5 bar, I shut off the motor and coasted 
to the side of the road.  The low oil light had not come back on 
again.  I popped the hood and checked for leaks or any indication of 
a problem.  I found no leaks, and the oil level was between min and 
max on the dipstick.  I restarted the car and the oil pressure went 
to about 1.2 bar, but would not go higher as RPMs increased.  After 
10 seconds or so of running it started to drop again so I shut the 
motor off again.  The vehicle has shown no signs of a failing oil 
pump or any other issues.  It normally idles around 1.8 to 2 bar and 
pegs the needle quickly.  There are no odd sounds, smells, or 
sights.  Now, I changed the oil filter last night (Mann filter, just 
like always), which is the only thing I've done to the car 
recently.  I have no idea if it's coincidence or not, but I plan on 
pulling the filter tonight to see if I can see anything wrong.  Even 
if the filter was faulty and stopped oil flow, there is a filter 
bypass so I should not have seen the symptoms I'm seeing.  It appears 
that the oil is not flowing back down to the sump quickly enough and 
the pump is sucking air.  I'm having the vehicle towed home for 
further diagnosis, but welcome any suggestions.


Thanks,


J.B. Hebert

--
Current Vehicles:

'76 Ford Bronco
'78 Volvo 262C Bertone V8
'80 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe
'82 Mercedes 300CD (Deceased)
'93 GMC Sierra 2500
'95 Mercedes E300D 



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Re: [MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

2006-06-27 Thread Loren Faeth
Yes, this one has me puzzled.  I am out of ideas, other than trying to 
replace the copper seals.  I believe the electric fuel pump would have 
supplied at least 10 psi even if the relief valve on the back of the pump 
was wide open.  I have not checked for fuel pressure with a gauge.


At 09:37 AM 6/27/2006, you wrote:


In a message dated 6/26/2006 9:26:15 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

As you  may remember, several list members have made various suggestions of
things  to check.  The problem appears to be internal to the Inj
pump.   There is good fuel flow through the filters.  (no algae)  Filters
were replaced anyway.  just to be certain we eliminated many sources  of
possible problems, I put an electric fuel pump ahead of the transfer  pump,
took off the oil filler cap to eliminate the possibility of  crankcase
pressure buildup, removed the IP side cover and manually held  the rack to
the full delivery position with the vacuum disconnected to the  shut
off.  In this test, we got continuous flow through the pump and  out the
return line, but not enough fuel to start and run to the injector  nozzles
(tested by cracking the lines and comparing to the SDL  engine)  I tested
the shut-off valve with a mighty vac and it appears  to be working
correctly.  The rack pulls to the no-fuel position with  the vacuum applied,
and returns to a partial delivery position with the  vacuum released.



Boy, holding the rack open should certainly be effective in getting fuel to
the engine.  I think you are running out of options.

Have you verified that the fuel pressure maintained at the IP is about
10PSI, as maintained by the back pressure valve in the banjo  fitting.   I 
do not
know if this is a must-have, but certainly a  possible point of 
failure.  The
back pressure device is in the  fitting on the engine side of the IP, near 
the

rear most plunger.

Good luck,

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone happan to have downloaded the on-line manual section for IP removal?

2006-06-27 Thread archer


- Original Message - 
From: "Steve MacSween" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anyone happan to have downloaded the on-line manual 
section for IP removal?




on 6/24/06 10:53 AM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Sorry, thought I had put it into the subject line.

1982 240d.

Thx



Is this what you want?

http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/Engine/615/07-200.pdf


Yes, but when I tried to access it over the preceding days I got a 404 
error

message.

Anyone else had problems with the braingears site?

Marshall's link worked fine.

Mac



I get a blank screen.
Gerry 





Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread archer
What would one of the old tube type in good working condition be worth?  I 
have one but it's buried in the attic and I don't remember the name.  I was 
concerned about getting replacement tubes but a friend who sells tubes on 
the internet said there would be no problem.

Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board



I have a 2213 in the closet, that I use on those rare occasions when I
need a 'scope these days.  It's a nice piece of equipment; I hope it
doesn't die any time soon.


I have a 2336 that has already lost the HV once, and now has an
intermittent focus.  Not a very robust model as it turns out.
It was free, but the price of the service manual and the NOS
(and NLA) HV module was not insignificant.  I had to dig out
the crappy old Heathkit scope to troubleshoot the Tek.


In college we used the modular Teks, but I can't recall the model
numbers.


700-series mainframes?


remember the CRT wiring was the opposite of normal television practice,
with the anode at ground potential and the cathode and filament at a
highly negative voltage.


Keeps the face of the CRT from sucking dust to it?  And other related
secondary effects.  Puts the nasty HV far away from the front of the
device, and allows things like the deflection plates (driven by all
that circuitry) to not be at high voltage relative to the chassis.
Simpler, safer, and more reliable.  In a TV, the deflection is
magnetically coupled.


At one time I owned a Tektronix RM-503, a rack-mount beast that
contained about thirty vacuum tubes.


We used the 503 in school, it was a differential input scope.  5 MHz?
I also used it as the output device in a game competition because I
could save a dollar by outputting a negative voltage and use the
scope's "-" inputs.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] FSM comic

2006-06-27 Thread LarryT

Curt wrote:<< beautiful 2 seater of some sort >>

Hi Curt -
Thats a MB 300SL of the mid to late 50s.  It;s the roadster version of the 
300SL Gullwing.


Excellent movie BTW - I especially like the 6am start in Manhattan when the 
Ferrari and Cobra run thru the gearboxes with those glorious  sounds 
reflecting off the buildings - and there's 2 classic lines in that movie - 
one, when the Ferrari driver rips the rearview mirror off and throws it away 
while saying "Whatsa behinda you is no matter/"   and as the Ferrari hits 
top speed as a police helicopter tries to catch it the pilot says, "Hell, we 
don't have a fixed wing that'll keep up with THAT!"


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 9:33 AM
Subject: [MBZ] FSM comic


I got introduced to the FSM here, so I figured this was at least slightly 
appropriate: http://inthepuddle.com/index.php?cid=104


 Mercedes content: We watched "The Gumball Rally" the other night, theres a 
couple NICE MBs in there. First is a somethingSE, 450 I think, what struck 
me as odd were the painted hubcaps... Also a beautiful 2 seater of some sort 
driven by two old English gentlemen that were hilarious.


 -Curt


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Re: [MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

2006-06-27 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 6/26/2006 9:26:15 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

As you  may remember, several list members have made various suggestions of 
things  to check.  The problem appears to be internal to the Inj 
pump.   There is good fuel flow through the filters.  (no algae)  Filters  
were replaced anyway.  just to be certain we eliminated many sources  of 
possible problems, I put an electric fuel pump ahead of the transfer  pump, 
took off the oil filler cap to eliminate the possibility of  crankcase 
pressure buildup, removed the IP side cover and manually held  the rack to 
the full delivery position with the vacuum disconnected to the  shut 
off.  In this test, we got continuous flow through the pump and  out the 
return line, but not enough fuel to start and run to the injector  nozzles 
(tested by cracking the lines and comparing to the SDL  engine)  I tested 
the shut-off valve with a mighty vac and it appears  to be working 
correctly.  The rack pulls to the no-fuel position with  the vacuum applied, 
and returns to a partial delivery position with the  vacuum released.



Boy, holding the rack open should certainly be effective in getting fuel to  
the engine.  I think you are running out of options.  
 
Have you verified that the fuel pressure maintained at the IP is about  
10PSI, as maintained by the back pressure valve in the banjo  fitting.   I do 
not 
know if this is a must-have, but certainly a  possible point of failure.  The  
back pressure device is in the  fitting on the engine side of the IP, near the 
rear most plunger.
 
Good luck,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 142 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] A THING of BEAUTY

2006-06-27 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 27, 2006, at 4:36 AM, Stephen MurD Murrell wrote:

?!?!?; 240D engine; I would be lucky to get 1/2 of their starting  
price
for my (WHOLE CAR)  1979 240D with my "remanufactured engine" in it  
with
MOST all NEW parts, pistons & sleeves; mine looked better, when  
rebuilt

in my CLEAN kitchen, has about 25,000 miles since rebuild; crank,cam,
valves & rockers only things not NEW?;  Steve



	It's doubtful that anyone will bite, priced how it is. Not saying it  
isn't a quality rebuild but as you stated, entire good-running cars  
can be had at a fraction of what they are asking.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Curt Raymond
The 3 quarts I was able to get at Wal-Mart were like $5.40 a quart or so (don't 
remember exactly) and the 6 quarts I picked up at Autozone got me case pricing 
of like $36.50 or so (again not sure). Without the case price the Autozone oil 
was almost exactly $1/quart more, by the case of 6 it was a bit less.
  Frankly the ability to change the oil once every quarter while still driving 
90 miles a day is worth it to me. If it takes me an hour to change the oil 
thats around $25 for my labor, plus like $8 for the filter which pretty nearly 
pays for the oil right there.
   
  I changed at 7,000 miles, soot was at .6% but the grade had fallen to sae 40 
I'm guessing because of of leftover conventional oil from my last change, hey 
it was February and I was working fast...
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 23:47:26 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

so how much are they getting it for?

Curt Raymond wrote:

> I've officially given up on Wal-Mart for pretty much anything. 
Everytime I got its a crapshoot if they're going to have ANY Mobil 1 I can 
use. I don't understand how they can have 200 gallons of 10w30, 5w30 and 
5w20 and 3 quarts of 15w50... I mean if the 15w50 sells so well why 
couldn't you stock more of it? Doesn't make any kind of sense.
>
>   So this weekend I discovered that if I call our local Autozone on 
Monday and tell him I want 9 quarts of 15w50 on Friday he'll have it 
when I get there and ask. I found this out after ranting about Wal-Mart 
stupidly not having any. He's going to check on 5w40 for me too.
>
>   -Curt



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Would like to use smaller fan belt and bybass AC
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I could check my records but when I took the belt off the AC pump on my 240D I 
don't remember seeing ANY difference in fuel economy. Maybe 1mpg but thats hard 
to see even over 10,000 miles.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 23:17:37 -0700
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Would like to use smaller fan belt and bybass AC
 pulley. What size do I need? For 1987 300D turbo
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

> I would like to bypass my AC compressor and use a smaller fanbelt 
that 
> will not attach to the AC compressor pulley. My system does not work, 
> and would rather get the somewhat improved mileage.

I would think that in Yakima that AC would be somewhat desirable.
What's wrong with it?

Anyway, assuming nobody can look up the belt length you need you
could always take a string and run it around the new path and measure
the length.  Try to put the tensioner in the normal place first,
or account for it somehow.  You might be able to use string to measure
between two fixed points along the belt path that includes the AC
pulley, then stretch a chord that excludes it, then take the difference
and subtract that from the stock length.

However, I don't think that the 'load' of an uncoupled AC compressor
would even be noticeable at the fuel pump.  Certainly not enough to
even pay for the new shorter belt, IMHO.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] FSM comic

2006-06-27 Thread Curt Raymond
I got introduced to the FSM here, so I figured this was at least slightly 
appropriate: http://inthepuddle.com/index.php?cid=104
   
  Mercedes content: We watched "The Gumball Rally" the other night, theres a 
couple NICE MBs in there. First is a somethingSE, 450 I think, what struck me 
as odd were the painted hubcaps... Also a beautiful 2 seater of some sort 
driven by two old English gentlemen that were hilarious.
   
  -Curt


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Subject: [MBZ] Oil thread
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Note: What follows is an attempt to humorous, please do not attempt to inject 
any measure of serious discussion into this. I've recently discovered I hate my 
job and am now taking steps to introduce serious levity into my dreary little 
life...
   
  Last month at camp Dad and I were getting out the lawnmower so we could mow 
where we were planning to plant trees. We're developing a treefarm you see and 
planting in short grass is much more pleasant than tall grass. SO I asked dear 
old Dad if we shouldn't change the oil in said 4 year old 13hp MTD mower. Nah, 
he said, it started well enough, its got plenty of oil in it, it'll be fine.
  Note here that last year when I changed the oil I didn't put in the synthetic 
oil I usually use because we didn't have enough hanging around AND we'd 
discovered that when filled with Mobil 1 10w30 my Grandmothers old Craftsman 
rear engine 8hp leaks badly. So I'd used just regular 10w30.
   
  Dad mowed a patch and then quit for lunch, after lunch he went out mowing 
again and I took my 7hp Cub Cadet out to grade the camp road with its back 
blade. Within about 10 minutes I noticed Dad strolling down the camp road so I 
quit gradeing and went over to see what was up.
  It turns out the MTD had thrown a rod CLEAN OUT THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE. 
Leaving a big old hole. "Gee thats what the bottom of the piston looks like
   
  So I'm blaming this entirely on the lack of Mobil 1 in the crankcase...
   
  On a side note with the MTD dead we needed to revive the backup mower which 
is an old (well '91 but its got a million hours on it) White 11hp. We got that 
running by jumpstarting it off the truck, one jumper cable to the frame, one to 
the starter...
  I put Mobil 1 in that RIGHT AWAY and it ran great.
   
  -Curt


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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo diesel
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Re: [MBZ] OT tool tip

2006-06-27 Thread Harry Watkins
That's correct, mine came by way of a padding for a shipment I received.

Harry
 
- Original Message - 
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes List" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 7:56 AM
Subject: [MBZ] OT tool tip


> Harry:
> 
> By "dimpled foam" do you mean the egg-crate mattress pad stuff?
> 
> Ned Kleinhenz





[MBZ] OT tool tip

2006-06-27 Thread ned kleinhenz

Harry:

By "dimpled foam" do you mean the egg-crate mattress pad stuff?

Ned Kleinhenz


Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Jim Cathey

I have a 2213 in the closet, that I use on those rare occasions when I
need a 'scope these days.  It's a nice piece of equipment; I hope it
doesn't die any time soon.


I have a 2336 that has already lost the HV once, and now has an
intermittent focus.  Not a very robust model as it turns out.
It was free, but the price of the service manual and the NOS
(and NLA) HV module was not insignificant.  I had to dig out
the crappy old Heathkit scope to troubleshoot the Tek.


In college we used the modular Teks, but I can't recall the model
numbers.


700-series mainframes?


remember the CRT wiring was the opposite of normal television practice,
with the anode at ground potential and the cathode and filament at a
highly negative voltage.


Keeps the face of the CRT from sucking dust to it?  And other related
secondary effects.  Puts the nasty HV far away from the front of the
device, and allows things like the deflection plates (driven by all
that circuitry) to not be at high voltage relative to the chassis.
Simpler, safer, and more reliable.  In a TV, the deflection is
magnetically coupled.


At one time I owned a Tektronix RM-503, a rack-mount beast that
contained about thirty vacuum tubes.


We used the 503 in school, it was a differential input scope.  5 MHz?
I also used it as the output device in a game competition because I
could save a dollar by outputting a negative voltage and use the
scope's "-" inputs.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo diesel

2006-06-27 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
I think the last discussion on the list is that they are going 8-10K.
But not with this many miles.  There is one for sale locally here for
9K.  6000 might be good price on this one if it is as good as it sounds.
I probably have about 8K in mine now-130K miles. The ruff idol might be
Elvis on a bad hair day.  Mine was a bit ruff when I got -hadn't been
driven. Did the usual drive it like I stole it-added lubro-Moly  cetane
booster from Rusty, etc. Now very smooth-even at cold idle.

Dwight

Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI

Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 1:09 AM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo diesel


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=269056
30

Any idea of what it might be worth?

Any comments about, "it starts right up and has a little ruff idol for a
few seconds(like most diesels do)," besides spelling?


Craig

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[MBZ] A THING of BEAUTY

2006-06-27 Thread Stephen MurD Murrell
?!?!?; 240D engine; I would be lucky to get 1/2 of their starting price
for my (WHOLE CAR)  1979 240D with my "remanufactured engine" in it with
MOST all NEW parts, pistons & sleeves; mine looked better, when rebuilt
in my CLEAN kitchen, has about 25,000 miles since rebuild; crank,cam,
valves & rockers only things not NEW?;  Steve



Re: [MBZ] Anyone happan to have downloaded the on-line manual section for IP removal?

2006-06-27 Thread Steve MacSween
on 6/24/06 10:53 AM, Marshall Booth at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>> Sorry, thought I had put it into the subject line.
>> 
>> 1982 240d.
>> 
>> Thx
>> 
> 
> Is this what you want?
> 
> http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/Engine/615/07-200.pdf

Yes, but when I tried to access it over the preceding days I got a 404 error
message.

Anyone else had problems with the braingears site?

Marshall's link worked fine.

Mac




Re: [MBZ] Would like to use smaller fan belt and bybass AC pulley. What size do I need? For 1987 300D turbo

2006-06-27 Thread John Berryman


On Jun 27, 2006, at 2:08 AM, RICHARD FIne wrote:

I would like to bypass my AC compressor and use a smaller fanbelt  
that will not attach to the AC compressor pulley. My system does  
not work, and would rather get the somewhat improved mileage.


Thanks,

Richard


	A 603 engine without AC from the factory uses a 2080mm belt. I don't  
know if the layout is the same but just missing the compressor.
	What fuel saving are you attempting to realize by omitting the  
compressor. It acts as an idler pulley when the compressor clutch is  
disengaged.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am



Re: [MBZ] 79 300D Normal Coolant Temperature

2006-06-27 Thread Peter Merle

I not sure if there is a problem indeed as you suggest - I'm juust
enquiring if its normal. The temperature reachs 98 deg on a mild hill
with no load at 25 deg C. Temperatures can reach 35-40 deg C here and
should I be towing a loaded trailer I am a bit concerned. Furthur when I
had the engine overalled ( 2 years ago ) the engineering company
suggested that the engine is running too hot ( by viewing th ecyl head )

Peter Merle

-Original Message-
From: Marshall Booth [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 26 June 2006 09:58 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 79 300D Normal Coolant Temperature


Peter Merle wrote:
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Desert Rat [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: 23 June 2006 01:02 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 79 300D Normal Coolant Temperature
> 
> 
> Peter, those are great numbers.wish my MB's were that low!
> 
> I  wouldn't touch a thing.
> What doi you mean that Low - is yours running hotter!
> 
> I am a bit puzzled - I have the same engined Gwagon ( W460 series )
> and that termperature stays less than 90 regardless of conditions - 
> uses same thermostat but does have a slightly larger radiator - 
> vehicle weight is however also signifcantly higher. Its radiator is 
> copper , the W123 of mine is aluminuim /plastic . My radiator has been

> cleanened professionally . I do have a copper raditor new - however it

> is not a simple plug and play replacement - the brackets are offset 
> and there are no brackets for the oil cooler so it will need 
> modification . This raditor was made for OEM for the South African 
> W123 's and somehow the mounting is different!! Peter Merle
> capetown

I still haven't heard that you have ANY problem. The principle objective

of the cooling system design is to allow the coolant to run as hot as 
possible - WITHOUT boiling. If you have a problem with the coolant 
boiling, then you need to do whatever is required to prevent that! If 
the coolant is NOT boiling away, then the engine will run as efficiently

as possible and fuel consumption and engine wear will be optimized.

The purpose of the cooling system is to PREVENT cooling until the temp 
reaches about 85 degrees and to slowly divert more and more coolant thru

the radiator as temperature increases until it's all diverted at between

94-102 deg. C. Only when/after all of the coolant is diverted thru the 
radiator does the fan(s) become energized to add to the cooling. Using 
1-1.4 bar of radiator pressure further raises the boiling point of 
coolant and the use of a surfactant (such as Red Line Water Wetter) can 
further improve the transfer of engine heat from the engine to the 
coolant and from the coolant to the radiator surfaces. Engine heat 
readings of as high as 115 deg C are entirely proper under sever 
conditions as will harm NOTHING as long as the system is operating as 
designed.

The design of the 123 cooling system was entirely sufficient for even 
desert environments as long as the system was properly maintained! It 
MAY not transfer as much heat as fast as your W460, but why should it?

There is NOTHING magic about 90 deg! It's only important to prevent 
coolant from boiling!

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] Would like to use smaller fan belt and bybass AC pulley. What size do I need? For 1987 300D turbo

2006-06-27 Thread David Brodbeck
Jim Cathey wrote:
> However, I don't think that the 'load' of an uncoupled AC compressor
> would even be noticeable at the fuel pump.  Certainly not enough to
> even pay for the new shorter belt, IMHO.
>   

I don't think so, either...I think the only reason to do this would be
if the A/C compressor clutch's bearings were failing.




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread David Brodbeck
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> And which ones [Tek scopes-of-death] would those be?
>> 
>
> 2465, etc.  (If I remember the number right.)  We had them
> at work once, along with many other models of various vintages,
> and they were the ones you always reached for first.  In fact,
> the Bright Eyes 2467 was the big kahuna.  Crank that sucker up
> in the dark, shield the tube face to your eyes, and look for
> 'hair' on the signals.
>   

I have a 2213 in the closet, that I use on those rare occasions when I
need a 'scope these days.  It's a nice piece of equipment; I hope it
doesn't die any time soon.

In college we used the modular Teks, but I can't recall the model
numbers.  Some of the older, non-functional ones were used for
troubleshooting practice, because they had good service manuals and very
neatly laid out internal wiring, with everything on terminal strips.  I
remember the CRT wiring was the opposite of normal television practice,
with the anode at ground potential and the cathode and filament at a
highly negative voltage.

At one time I owned a Tektronix RM-503, a rack-mount beast that
contained about thirty vacuum tubes.  It was not very accurate by the
time I got my hands on it, having been last calibrated some time in the
1960s, but I used it with an 'octopus' made from an old power supply
transformer to test semiconductors.



[MBZ] Would like to use smaller fan belt and bybass AC pulley. What size do I need? For 1987 300D turbo

2006-06-27 Thread RICHARD FIne
I would like to bypass my AC compressor and use a smaller fanbelt that will not 
attach to the AC compressor pulley. My system does not work, and would rather 
get the somewhat improved mileage.

Thanks,

Richard
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Would like to use smaller fan belt and bybass AC pulley.
What size do I need? For 1987 300D turbo
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> I would like to bypass my AC compressor and use a smaller fanbelt that
> will not attach to the AC compressor pulley. My system does not work,
> and would rather get the somewhat improved mileage.

I would think that in Yakima that AC would be somewhat desirable.
What's wrong with it?

Anyway, assuming nobody can look up the belt length you need you
could always take a string and run it around the new path and measure
the length.  Try to put the tensioner in the normal place first,
or account for it somehow.  You might be able to use string to measure
between two fixed points along the belt path that includes the AC
pulley, then stretch a chord that excludes it, then take the difference
and subtract that from the stock length.

However, I don't think that the 'load' of an uncoupled AC compressor
would even be noticeable at the fuel pump.  Certainly not enough to
even pay for the new shorter belt, IMHO.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Jim Cathey

And which ones [Tek scopes-of-death] would those be?


2465, etc.  (If I remember the number right.)  We had them
at work once, along with many other models of various vintages,
and they were the ones you always reached for first.  In fact,
the Bright Eyes 2467 was the big kahuna.  Crank that sucker up
in the dark, shield the tube face to your eyes, and look for
'hair' on the signals.

I'd have bought a 2465 by now, except that they are _not_ suitable
for my run-it-forever mentality.  Far too fragile and unrepairable
for my tastes, and it's a pity.  They sure worked great.  If I find
one for a particularly cheap price someday, maybe.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] ooops

2006-06-27 Thread redghost
there is a 200 gallon limit on beer and wine.  Not that I have tried to 
hit that limit.  I get too much product doing 60 gallons, five gallons 
at a time each month.


On Tuesday, June 20, 2006, at 12:53 PM, David Brodbeck wrote:


Potter, Tom E wrote:

Isn't it still legal to produce alcoholic beverages for your own
consumption? I think you get into problems when you try to sell it.



I'm not sure.  I was thinking it was legal to make beer or wine for 
your

own consumption, but not distilled spirits.  It very likely varies from
state to state.


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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: 1979 300D for sale]

2006-06-27 Thread Tom Hargrave
Where at in East TN? I might be interested. 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Striplin Admin account
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 11:54 PM
To: mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] [Fwd: 1979 300D for sale]



 Original Message 
Subject: 1979 300D for sale
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:53:28 +
From: Chris Granju <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Chris Granju <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A friend told me about a '79 300D he's got for sale.  It's an 'as is' 
kinda thing, isn't running right now, but he hasn't tried it or messed with
it eitherso you know how that goes.  Tags expired in 2005, but 
has good tires.   White w/ blue interiorseats look perfect, gauges 
all good. automatic transmission & all the body/trim is intact.  The down
side (besides the fact he's never seen it run) is that it's got 
rust in the jack point areas & around the rear window.   From the looks 
of it, my guess that it would run w/ not much fiddling.   I think the 
asking price is $500.  it's in east TN.  I can get photos or whatever if
anyone's interested.
-c


.



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Re: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo diesel

2006-06-27 Thread Tom Hargrave
My personal opinion is that this is the best one Mercedes ever made.

If it smoothes out & runs right then I would not be too concerned. 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 12:09 AM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo diesel

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=26905630

Any idea of what it might be worth?

Any comments about, "it starts right up and has a little ruff idol for a few
seconds(like most diesels do)," besides spelling?


Craig

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[MBZ] 1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo diesel

2006-06-27 Thread Craig McCluskey
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=26905630

Any idea of what it might be worth?

Any comments about, "it starts right up and has a little ruff idol for a
few seconds(like most diesels do)," besides spelling?


Craig



[MBZ] [Fwd: 1979 300D for sale]

2006-06-27 Thread Striplin Admin account



 Original Message 
Subject: 1979 300D for sale
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:53:28 +
From: Chris Granju <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Chris Granju <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A friend told me about a '79 300D he's got for sale.  It's an 'as is' 
kinda thing, isn't running right now, but he hasn't tried it or messed 
with it eitherso you know how that goes.  Tags expired in 2005, but 
has good tires.   White w/ blue interiorseats look perfect, gauges 
all good. automatic transmission & all the body/trim is intact.  The 
down side (besides the fact he's never seen it run) is that it's got 
rust in the jack point areas & around the rear window.   From the looks 
of it, my guess that it would run w/ not much fiddling.   I think the 
asking price is $500.  it's in east TN.  I can get photos or whatever if 
anyone's interested.

-c


.





Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

so how much are they getting it for?

Curt Raymond wrote:


I've officially given up on Wal-Mart for pretty much anything. Everytime I got 
its a crapshoot if they're going to have ANY Mobil 1 I can use. I don't 
understand how they can have 200 gallons of 10w30, 5w30 and 5w20 and 3 quarts 
of 15w50... I mean if the 15w50 sells so well why couldn't you stock more of 
it? Doesn't make any kind of sense.
   
  So this weekend I discovered that if I call our local Autozone on Monday and tell him I want 9 quarts of 15w50 on Friday he'll have it when I get there and ask. I found this out after ranting about Wal-Mart stupidly not having any. He's going to check on 5w40 for me too.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 10:28:26 -0700

From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

FWIW, I stopped browsing walmart in search of 5W40 mobil 1 and picked 
up
some delvac 1 from a truck stop in paso robles. Little expensive, but 
far 
cheaper than the mobil 1 distributor up here wanted for them. 


Couldn't wait any longer for turbodiesel truck to appear.

K



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 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] OT tool tip

2006-06-27 Thread Harry Watkins
You would not say that if you ever tried the foam.  I have a mag tray and I
like it, but, the foam is better in a lot of ways.

Harry

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT tool tip


> a magnetic parts tray works even better
>
> Harry Watkins wrote:
>
> > I use a piece of dimpled foam under the hood for a handy place to put
parts and tools while I'm working.  Mine is 24 x 30 inches and 3 inches
thick.
> >
> > Things can be thrown on it and they stay put.  Even when its loaded you
can move it around to get it out of the way with out doing damage.
> >
> > When finished working, its easily picked up with everything still on it
and taken back to your bench or tool box.
> >
> > Harry Watkins
> > Newton, MS
> > 86 SDL Silver
> > 85 300D Euro
> > 86 SDL Gold
> > 81 240D manual trans
> >
> >
> > ___
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> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
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> >
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>
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
>   85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
>   76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
> http://www.striplin.net





Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Thats interesting, hope it actually pans out.  I might consider 
switching to m1 again.


George Larribeau wrote:


Correction: Mobil 5W-30 Truck and SUV formula IS rated CD & CF so is
suitable for light duty diesel service. Doesn't seem to meet ACEA B-3,
B-4 so it's inferior to other M-1 oils.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Truck_SUV_5W-30.asp

Marshall



I called the Mobil 1 tech support at 800 662 4542. Basically they were very 
apologetic for the SNAFU that the 're-labeling' has caused. Currently 
Autozone is scheduled to pick up stocking of the 'Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 
5W-40' This was directly commutated as a done deal with the word 
'immediately' used. Wallmart and the others are to follow but did not get a 
firm answer as to their commitment and or schedule. The rep was aware that 
the re-labeling has caused a stocking problem at many (all?) of their 
consumer outlets of this product and has not be beneficial to their 
marketing of it. The target consumer of it is diesel pickup truck owners. 
He (the rep) told me that 'Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40' is Delvac 1 and 
is no different that the 'discontinued' Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-40. However 
all the above was verily commutated over the telephone .


George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

1985 300SD 190K



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] OT tool tip

2006-06-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

a magnetic parts tray works even better

Harry Watkins wrote:


I use a piece of dimpled foam under the hood for a handy place to put parts and 
tools while I'm working.  Mine is 24 x 30 inches and 3 inches thick.

Things can be thrown on it and they stay put.  Even when its loaded you can 
move it around to get it out of the way with out doing damage.

When finished working, its easily picked up with everything still on it and 
taken back to your bench or tool box.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

Loren Faeth wrote:

1987 300 TD

As you may remember, several list members have made various suggestions of 
things to check.  The problem appears to be internal to the Inj 
pump.  There is good fuel flow through the filters.  (no algae)  Filters 
were replaced anyway.  just to be certain we eliminated many sources of 
possible problems, I put an electric fuel pump ahead of the transfer pump, 
took off the oil filler cap to eliminate the possibility of crankcase 
pressure buildup, removed the IP side cover and manually held the rack to 
the full delivery position with the vacuum disconnected to the shut 
off.  In this test, we got continuous flow through the pump and out the 
return line, but not enough fuel to start and run to the injector nozzles 
(tested by cracking the lines and comparing to the SDL engine)  I tested 
the shut-off valve with a mighty vac and it appears to be working 
correctly.  The rack pulls to the no-fuel position with the vacuum applied, 
and returns to a partial delivery position with the vacuum released.


Next weekend I am going to try replacing the copper seals and o-rings on 
the delivery valves, but I am running out of ideas.  I believe holding the 
rack to full open will eliminate any influence of the mechanical governor. 
Each element of the pump operates off its own lobe of the cam, so it is 
unlikely that the cam had a massive failure.  since fuel is flowing out of 
the IP overflow at the filter, I believe there can't be air pockets in the 
pump.


Does anyone else have any ideas?  If a copper seal is bad, would that 
affect all the elements, or just one?


If a seal is bad, it influences THAT cylinder - not the others.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] O.T. VW Power Steering Pump

2006-06-27 Thread Bob Rentfro

Thanks, Casey.
I couldn't see the level in the PS res the first time i added PS fluid (not 
the fancy schmancy kind). It stopped the growling for a time, but it's back 
with a vengance. I will check the level tomorrow if i remember before I head 
off to work. Hopefully my girl child won't feel the need to drive all over 
tomorrow.

I hope it's not the steering rack. Bet that ain't cheap.
I need to make an appointment for the timing belt change. Suppose I could 
let the clowns take it for a spin to see what they say they think it may be. 
I can't find an indy with good cred how changes out timimg belts. 
Frustrating.


Bob


- Original Message - 
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] O.T. VW Power Steering Pump


I'm just plucking this out of ...uh, somewhere, but my '96 Passat tdi used 
a
separate v-belt just for the ps pump, so it seems conceivable that this 
belt

is a tad loose, and what you're hearing is the belt slipping, or it's the
steering rack.  IIRC, those pumps use a sooper-dooper top secret green 
fluid

you can't purchase anywhere but the dealer...Pentosin 11s or some such
blend.

On 6/25/06, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I believe the PS pump is going out on the Bug. It's doing the
whr/growl thing while turning and at low rpm. I checked the fluid and
it's fine. My question is this:
Does the PS pump play more of a role in a FWD car? I've never had a PS
issue in a FWD car. I noticed when I was backing the Bug in the drive
tonight the noise was more noticable (more rpm changes I reckon).



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
'84 300D (213k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
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[MBZ] 603 no start revisited.

2006-06-27 Thread Loren Faeth

1987 300 TD

As you may remember, several list members have made various suggestions of 
things to check.  The problem appears to be internal to the Inj 
pump.  There is good fuel flow through the filters.  (no algae)  Filters 
were replaced anyway.  just to be certain we eliminated many sources of 
possible problems, I put an electric fuel pump ahead of the transfer pump, 
took off the oil filler cap to eliminate the possibility of crankcase 
pressure buildup, removed the IP side cover and manually held the rack to 
the full delivery position with the vacuum disconnected to the shut 
off.  In this test, we got continuous flow through the pump and out the 
return line, but not enough fuel to start and run to the injector nozzles 
(tested by cracking the lines and comparing to the SDL engine)  I tested 
the shut-off valve with a mighty vac and it appears to be working 
correctly.  The rack pulls to the no-fuel position with the vacuum applied, 
and returns to a partial delivery position with the vacuum released.


Next weekend I am going to try replacing the copper seals and o-rings on 
the delivery valves, but I am running out of ideas.  I believe holding the 
rack to full open will eliminate any influence of the mechanical governor. 
Each element of the pump operates off its own lobe of the cam, so it is 
unlikely that the cam had a massive failure.  since fuel is flowing out of 
the IP overflow at the filter, I believe there can't be air pockets in the 
pump.


Does anyone else have any ideas?  If a copper seal is bad, would that 
affect all the elements, or just one?


Loren  (frustrated, cause I think this is something simple)




Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Bob Rentfro

Craig typed:

"Ah, an OIL thread! It's been a while since we've had one!"

They are always lurkingthey never are really done

Bob Rentfro




Re: [MBZ] Removing FI Pump

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

OK Don wrote:

I have no idea - but when in doubt, follow the manual ---

Perhaps Marshall has some insight.

On 6/26/06, ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Can anybody tell me -  to replace the injection timing device on a 606
engine, is it really necessary to remove the fuel injection pump ?


Never tried it on an OM606 engine. I'd expect it to be the same an the 
earlier 601/602/603 engines, but I don't know that!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Bob Rentfro
I remember waiting for the warmup on the tube radio on my '63 Falcon. That, 
along with the vacuum wipers (not much fun trying to pass a semi in the 
slushy snow) made for fun times.


Bob Rentfro


- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board



Speaking  of which, I'd better fire mine up again to keep those caps
'formed'.  Does it really have IC's?  It's a 310A.

Yes, it still works.  "Real radios glow in the dark!"

On 6/26/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 12:06:35 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> (Certain expensive and capable analog Tektronix oscilloscopes that are
> dying like flies come to mind, for which there are _no_ replacement
> chips.)

And which ones would those be?


Craig



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SU

2006-06-27 Thread Rory

I know you guys hate paying the high cost for home delivery of Amsoil
but talk to a few your local dealers and see if they have group buying
power and are willing to pass the savings of shipping on to you. Our
group here does this and we charge far less than Amsoil. But of course
we are not to far away from the Vegas whse. and one of us makes group
run.

Just a thought.

If I knew enough fo you guys in my area I would keep this stuff in
stock by the cases and gallons and pass the savings on, yeah I hate
sitting on stock that doesn't move, more than a couple of months and I
get worried.


Take care all

Rory

On 6/26/06, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

At one point I checked the label on a bottle of Mobil 1 10w30 I was putting in 
my gasser pickup truck and it was diesel rated, of course I can't remember what 
the rating was...

  It doesn't meet Mercedes diesel rating but its a capable diesel oil anyway. 
I'd run the 5w30 for 3,000 miles and then change it out with 15w50 or whatever 
I could get.

  This is why Johnny B went to Amsoil...

  -Curt

  Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:14:48 -0400
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

LT Don wrote:
> Yea, that is where I am at. After accidently putting in two quarts of
the
> non-diesel Truck & SUV over the weekend, I want to drain everything
out and
> refill with something that will suspend soot. I have half of a big
jug plus
> one quart of the "correct" Truck & SUV but that isn't quite enough to
do an
> oil change.

Don't rush to drain it out!!

What you put in (m-1 T&SUV 5W-30) suspends soot just fine (no problem
up
to about 2%). It's just a bit too "thin" for an "antique" diesel engine
(so you'll burn it a bit faster) and it isn't diesel rated because it
doesn't have as aggressive an additive package for neutralizing
combustion by-products (but you'll change the oil because of soot load
LONG before acid by-products are any problem - unless you're using
off-road #2 with 5000 ppm sulfur).

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)



-
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low  PC-to-Phone call rates.
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Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 20:31:05 -0500 "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> You are an engineer, aren't you?  I can smell them -- my son is one.

Ah, an OIL thread! It's been a while since we've had one!


Craig



Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread OK Don

Speaking  of which, I'd better fire mine up again to keep those caps
'formed'.  Does it really have IC's?  It's a 310A.

Yes, it still works.  "Real radios glow in the dark!"

On 6/26/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 12:06:35 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> (Certain expensive and capable analog Tektronix oscilloscopes that are
> dying like flies come to mind, for which there are _no_ replacement
> chips.)

And which ones would those be?


Craig



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Removing FI Pump

2006-06-27 Thread OK Don

I have no idea - but when in doubt, follow the manual ---

Perhaps Marshall has some insight.

On 6/26/06, ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Can anybody tell me -  to replace the injection timing device on a 606
engine, is it really necessary to remove the fuel injection pump ?

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D
'85 300D
'80 300TD
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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Peter Frederick
I've been warned by the guy that repairs some of my instruments at work 
(on-line TOC analyzers) that he is "having trouble finding" some of the 
components, meaning I assume small scale integrated circuits.  When the 
last on someone has in stock is gone, that's it.  Lots of things are 
going fast, anything analog (with the exception of general purpose 
amplifiers) is being replaced with digital -- not a new trend, it's 
been 20 years and more in the making.


No market means no production.  just like film.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Peter Frederick
Well, at least I'm not being slammed by some so called scientist that 
deliberately miss-understands my comments as I am on the photography 
group!


Peter




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Mon, 26 Jun 2006 12:06:35 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> (Certain expensive and capable analog Tektronix oscilloscopes that are
> dying like flies come to mind, for which there are _no_ replacement
> chips.)

And which ones would those be?


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Seller on Crack --

2006-06-27 Thread LarryT
Speaking of cars for sale, and crazy sellers -  - the Times-Dispatch 
(Richmond, Va) has an ad reading:<<"1979 Mercedes 240D Power Everything 
$25,000">>>  Pretty high opinion he has for an old 240D!


I wonder how long he'll hold out?  ;-)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes List" 
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 9:47 PM
Subject: [MBZ] end of June car listings



Delete as needed.  Been out of town getting sold on time shares.
Missed the ability to troll for cars, so you get the list of all the
stuff I found out.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/175491805.html  --  200D?  1978
stick

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/175479452.html  --  80 stick 240D

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/17544.html  --  80 300D $1k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/175445530.html  --  81 240 stick

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/175321560.html  --  82 SD $2800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/car/175298123.html  --  cheap w107

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/175040352.html  --  77 240 stick
$800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/175003298.html  --  300GD $15k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/car/174532205.html  -- 85 GD $18k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/174317719.html  --  81 SD $2800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/174298404.html  --  68 200D stick

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/174169104.html  --  82 240D stick
$2800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/174114206.html  --  81 300D $5k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/174018468.html  --  82 300D $2800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/173944652.html  -- finback WTF!

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/car/173829172.html  --  low mile 87 D
$9k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/173688945.html  --  79 300D $1k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/173328194.html  --  240D on crack

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/car/173243897.html  --  76 300D cheap

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/172996458.html  -- 190D 2.2 stick


Wonder why all the cars are being priced at $2800?  Must be a summer
thing



--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Jim Cathey

I made a schematic, see: http://cathey.dogear.com/mb190d/lowoil.pdf

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

2006-06-27 Thread Jim Cathey
Have you tested the one in the parts wagon you have to see if it 
behaves

similarly in the SDL or on the bench?


That instrument cluster is one of the _many_ parts that was
harvested off the wagon before I got it.  I only have two
low-oil indicator lamps: one in the SDL and one in the 190D.
The spare 126 cluster I got was from a 500 SEL, doesn't
have this indicator, and thus doesn't have the board.

-- Jim




[MBZ] Removing FI Pump

2006-06-27 Thread ned kleinhenz

Can anybody tell me -  to replace the injection timing device on a 606
engine, is it really necessary to remove the fuel injection pump ?

Ned Kleinhenz
'95 E300D
'85 300D
'80 300TD


[MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices

2006-06-27 Thread Tom Hargrave
 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 2:02 PM
To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices
Subject: Today's Diesel Prices

**  **  **   *
****   *  *  ***   U.S. Department of Energy**
  **  ** * Energy Information Administration *
**** ******* To unsubscribe/change address, **
**  **  **  **   * see the message footnotes *
 *
EIA, the Nation's clearinghouse for energy statistics. ***
**

(NOTE: To best view this document, your email software should be set to view
the item in an 80 character format, using a "non-proportional" font, e.g.
courier)
**

  On-highway diesel prices, by week and PADD
(Self Service Cash Price in Dollars per Gallon, Including Taxes)

Diesel Prices Web URL:
http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp   


  US

 NATL  EASTNEWCENTLOWER   GULF   ROCKY   WEST

 DATEAVG   COAST ENGLAND   ATL ATL   MIDWEST  COAST   MTN   COAST
CA  

   PADD   PADDPADDPADDPADDPADDPADD   PADD

 I IA  IB  IC  II III  IV V

--  -  - ---  -   -  ---  -  -  -
-

060626  2.867  2.864  2.952   2.956   2.816   2.819   2.822  2.960  3.068
3.140
060619  2.915  2.907  2.960   2.990   2.867   2.873   2.859  3.018  3.117
3.185
060612  2.918  2.909  2.979   2.997   2.866   2.874   2.848  3.041  3.149
3.217
060605  2.890  2.881  2.969   2.992   2.825   2.837   2.805  3.043  3.159
3.227
060529  2.882  2.873  2.966   2.987   2.815   2.824   2.798  3.044  3.161
3.227
060522  2.888  2.877  2.982   2.987   2.820   2.836   2.801  3.024  3.175
3.234
060515  2.920  2.907  3.003   3.014   2.853   2.870   2.829  3.074  3.192
3.242
060508  2.897  2.884  2.972   2.983   2.834   2.841   2.814  3.054  3.180
3.244
060501  2.896  2.892  2.979   2.987   2.843   2.853   2.832  3.012  3.098
3.163
060424  2.876  2.888  2.961   2.978   2.843   2.847   2.817  2.903  3.026
3.103
060417  2.765  2.788  2.865   2.876   2.743   2.735   2.725  2.756  2.881
2.933
060410  2.654  2.676  2.769   2.767   2.629   2.614   2.601  2.680  2.812
2.881
060403  2.617  2.639  2.731   2.727   2.593   2.578   2.579  2.629  2.753
2.812
060327  2.565  2.586  2.700   2.681   2.536   2.523   2.528  2.601  2.698
2.727
060320  2.581  2.606  2.702   2.697   2.558   2.533   2.552  2.608  2.716
2.738
060313  2.543  2.567  2.687   2.681   2.507   2.491   2.497  2.566  2.725
2.747
060306  2.545  2.571  2.656   2.682   2.516   2.500   2.499  2.545  2.711
2.739
060227  2.471  2.493  2.593   2.593   2.441   2.417   2.443  2.509  2.623
2.688
060220  2.455  2.487  2.593   2.580   2.437   2.398   2.427  2.497  2.594
2.674
060213  2.476  2.509  2.617   2.591   2.464   2.419   2.447  2.500  2.621
2.709
060206  2.499  2.536  2.659   2.618   2.490   2.445   2.463  2.503  2.645
2.739
060130  2.489  2.530  2.661   2.618   2.481   2.431   2.455  2.474  2.640
2.733
060123  2.472  2.516  2.668   2.610   2.462   2.423   2.432  2.435  2.608
2.674
060116  2.449  2.489  2.663   2.605   2.424   2.408   2.415  2.411  2.565
2.603
060109  2.485  2.528  2.676   2.626   2.473   2.451   2.453  2.421  2.577
2.601
060102  2.442  2.481  2.645   2.590   2.420   2.412   2.414  2.392  2.519
2.538
051226  2.448  2.481  2.643   2.599   2.416   2.420   2.421  2.410  2.523
2.543
051219  2.462  2.499  2.647   2.609   2.438   2.443   2.435  2.410  2.505
2.521
051212  2.436  2.458  2.598   2.577   2.393   2.409   2.429  2.401  2.500
2.465
051205  2.425  2.428  2.591   2.569   2.354   2.390   2.411  2.471  2.538
2.486
051128  2.479  2.467  2.619   2.604   2.394   2.442   2.456  2.591  2.617
2.559
051121  2.513  2.491  2.652   2.615   2.423   2.477   2.491  2.654  2.652
2.599
051114  2.602  2.565  2.699   2.689   2.500   2.575   2.585  2.766  2.738
2.717
051107  2.698  2.657  2.744   2.755   2.608   2.671   2.679  2.907  2.821
2.797
051031  2.876  2.784  2.834   2.848   2.753   2.907   2.846  3.079  2.951
2.936
051024  3.157  3.051  2.873   2.940   3.115   3.235   3.146  3.232  3.142
3.152
051017  3.148  3.116  2.913   2.966   3.199   3.144   3.177  3.178  3.178
3.210
051010  3.150  3.160  2.947   2.990   3.252   3.123   3.182  3.143  3.167
3.240
051003  3.144  3.198  3.012   3.040   3.283   3.083   3.185  3.079  3.174
3.262
050926  2.798  2.808  2.859   2.875   2.775   2.739   2.756  2.938  2.978
3.031
050919  2.732  2.749  2.804   2.846   2.702   2.648   2.677  2.902  2.985
3.060
050912  2.847  2.849  2.920   2.935   2.806   2.782   2.797  2.957  3.093
3.158
050905  2.898  2.900  2.

Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread LT Don

Ok, my daughter has her M.S. from George Mason in microbiology. I knew your
logic sounded familiar, and just picked the wrong kid.   :-)

Don


On 6/26/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


No, actually a biologist, but science is science, engineering is just
applied science.

The greatest challenge in life is communication.

Peter


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--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread OK Don

Instead of arbitrarily changing the oil, send a sample to Larry, and
findout what condition it's in. He'll even report the hot viscosity.

On 6/26/06, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

You are an engineer, aren't you?  I can smell them -- my son is one.

On 6/26/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Actually, viscosity ratings are more complicated.  In the old days, you
> have an oil of a particular viscosity (actually flow rate at a certain
> temperature).  Petroleum based oils have a significant change of
> viscosity with change in temperature character -- when hot, they get
> VERY thin.  When cold, of course, they aquire the flow characteristics
> of molassas, what ever the room temperature viscosity.
>
> The solution was to add materials that didn't change viscosity so much,
> so that an oil mixture would have "multi-viscosity" characteristics --
> that is, flow like say a 10 wt oil cold and a 30 wt oil hot.  The
> rating is cold viscosity rating number first, followed by hot viscosity
> rating, so a 10W-40 oil flows like a single rating 10W oil cold and
> like a single rating 40W hot.
>
> The base fluid used in synthetic oils doesn't change viscosity with
> temperature nearly as much as petroleum base oils, and in fact is
> fairly hard to rate using methods for petroleum base oils.  0W-30
> synthetic oil pours like cold diesel fuel, but I'd not want to use
> diesel fuel as an engine oil -- wouldn't stay in the engine!
>
> The smaller molecules will likely burn off first, since they are more
> volatile, but I suspect there really aren't that many in synthetic oil.
>   The majority of oil consumption in a good condition engine is burnoff
> from the cylinder walls as they are exposed during combustion, along
> with whatever amount burns off the valves from clearance on the stems.
> Synthetics are very resistant to oxidation (remember the frying pan on
> the grill ads?)  so they don't burn off the cylinder walls, and the
> molecules are fairly large so they won't evaporate.  No modern oil has
> components light enough to actually vaporize, I would venture -- they
> would also carbonize too easily, leading to excessive sludge.
>
> What the viscosity of a mixture is would be hard to determine without
> actually testing it, and I suspect what you would have would be xxW-50
> -- the viscosity "extenders" would work their magic more at the hot end
> than the cold end.
>
> Fun stuff, eh?  No wonder oil threads go on forever!
>
> Peter
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
___
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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



[MBZ] end of June car listings

2006-06-27 Thread redghost
Delete as needed.  Been out of town getting sold on time shares.  
Missed the ability to troll for cars, so you get the list of all the 
stuff I found out.


http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/175491805.html  --  200D?  1978 
stick


http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/175479452.html  --  80 stick 240D

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/17544.html  --  80 300D $1k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/175445530.html  --  81 240 stick

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/175321560.html  --  82 SD $2800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/car/175298123.html  --  cheap w107

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/175040352.html  --  77 240 stick 
$800


http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/175003298.html  --  300GD $15k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/car/174532205.html  -- 85 GD $18k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/car/174317719.html  --  81 SD $2800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/174298404.html  --  68 200D stick

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/174169104.html  --  82 240D stick 
$2800


http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/174114206.html  --  81 300D $5k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/174018468.html  --  82 300D $2800

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/173944652.html  -- finback WTF!

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/car/173829172.html  --  low mile 87 D 
$9k


http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/173688945.html  --  79 300D $1k

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/173328194.html  --  240D on crack

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/car/173243897.html  --  76 300D cheap

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/172996458.html  -- 190D 2.2 stick


Wonder why all the cars are being priced at $2800?  Must be a summer 
thing




--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




[MBZ] Ed Booher, cough up some cash

2006-06-27 Thread redghost

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/car/173190865.html

It is brown, but they only want $1k for this old 280, and it runs
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz




Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Peter Frederick
No, actually a biologist, but science is science, engineering is just 
applied science.


The greatest challenge in life is communication.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread LT Don

You are an engineer, aren't you?  I can smell them -- my son is one.

On 6/26/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Actually, viscosity ratings are more complicated.  In the old days, you
have an oil of a particular viscosity (actually flow rate at a certain
temperature).  Petroleum based oils have a significant change of
viscosity with change in temperature character -- when hot, they get
VERY thin.  When cold, of course, they aquire the flow characteristics
of molassas, what ever the room temperature viscosity.

The solution was to add materials that didn't change viscosity so much,
so that an oil mixture would have "multi-viscosity" characteristics --
that is, flow like say a 10 wt oil cold and a 30 wt oil hot.  The
rating is cold viscosity rating number first, followed by hot viscosity
rating, so a 10W-40 oil flows like a single rating 10W oil cold and
like a single rating 40W hot.

The base fluid used in synthetic oils doesn't change viscosity with
temperature nearly as much as petroleum base oils, and in fact is
fairly hard to rate using methods for petroleum base oils.  0W-30
synthetic oil pours like cold diesel fuel, but I'd not want to use
diesel fuel as an engine oil -- wouldn't stay in the engine!

The smaller molecules will likely burn off first, since they are more
volatile, but I suspect there really aren't that many in synthetic oil.
  The majority of oil consumption in a good condition engine is burnoff
from the cylinder walls as they are exposed during combustion, along
with whatever amount burns off the valves from clearance on the stems.
Synthetics are very resistant to oxidation (remember the frying pan on
the grill ads?)  so they don't burn off the cylinder walls, and the
molecules are fairly large so they won't evaporate.  No modern oil has
components light enough to actually vaporize, I would venture -- they
would also carbonize too easily, leading to excessive sludge.

What the viscosity of a mixture is would be hard to determine without
actually testing it, and I suspect what you would have would be xxW-50
-- the viscosity "extenders" would work their magic more at the hot end
than the cold end.

Fun stuff, eh?  No wonder oil threads go on forever!

Peter


___
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--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread LT Don

Worth the price increase then. Thanks.

On 6/26/06, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


LT Don wrote:
> Did they jack up the price on the 15W-50 when they put on the new label?

Old formula M-1 15W-50 was primarily group IV oil. M-1 15W-50 Ext is a
mix of group IV and V oil - much more group V then the old formula.
Costs more because group V oil is more expensive than group IV.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Peter Frederick
Actually, viscosity ratings are more complicated.  In the old days, you 
have an oil of a particular viscosity (actually flow rate at a certain 
temperature).  Petroleum based oils have a significant change of 
viscosity with change in temperature character -- when hot, they get 
VERY thin.  When cold, of course, they aquire the flow characteristics 
of molassas, what ever the room temperature viscosity.


The solution was to add materials that didn't change viscosity so much, 
so that an oil mixture would have "multi-viscosity" characteristics -- 
that is, flow like say a 10 wt oil cold and a 30 wt oil hot.  The 
rating is cold viscosity rating number first, followed by hot viscosity 
rating, so a 10W-40 oil flows like a single rating 10W oil cold and 
like a single rating 40W hot.


The base fluid used in synthetic oils doesn't change viscosity with 
temperature nearly as much as petroleum base oils, and in fact is 
fairly hard to rate using methods for petroleum base oils.  0W-30 
synthetic oil pours like cold diesel fuel, but I'd not want to use 
diesel fuel as an engine oil -- wouldn't stay in the engine!


The smaller molecules will likely burn off first, since they are more 
volatile, but I suspect there really aren't that many in synthetic oil. 
 The majority of oil consumption in a good condition engine is burnoff 
from the cylinder walls as they are exposed during combustion, along 
with whatever amount burns off the valves from clearance on the stems.  
Synthetics are very resistant to oxidation (remember the frying pan on 
the grill ads?)  so they don't burn off the cylinder walls, and the 
molecules are fairly large so they won't evaporate.  No modern oil has 
components light enough to actually vaporize, I would venture -- they 
would also carbonize too easily, leading to excessive sludge.


What the viscosity of a mixture is would be hard to determine without 
actually testing it, and I suspect what you would have would be xxW-50 
-- the viscosity "extenders" would work their magic more at the hot end 
than the cold end.


Fun stuff, eh?  No wonder oil threads go on forever!

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Marshall Booth

LT Don wrote:

Did they jack up the price on the 15W-50 when they put on the new label?


Old formula M-1 15W-50 was primarily group IV oil. M-1 15W-50 Ext is a 
mix of group IV and V oil - much more group V then the old formula. 
Costs more because group V oil is more expensive than group IV.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread LT Don

Did they jack up the price on the 15W-50 when they put on the new label?

On 6/26/06, Tom Scordato <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Although Marshal has forgotten more than I know about this subject for
what
it is worth I have run my 1977 300D with 15w/50 M1 extended life and now
my
1979 240D with this product combined over 150K miles
Regards Tom Scordato
- Original Message -
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV


> LT Don wrote:
>> Are you saying that the "new" 15W-50 Ext is ok for our diesels? I was
>> laboring under the assumption that none of the Extended oils were
>> diesel-approved, and that the logical replacement was the 0W-40 Truck &
>> SUV.
>
> While M-1 15W-50 hasn't been approved by Mercedes (at least not yet) it
> carries the same CF API rating and ACEA B3, B4 ratings. I would not
> hesitate to use it in MY diesels.
>
> M-1 ESP formula M 5W-40 was supposed to start showing up (Mercedes says,
> "available in the USA on 5/15/06") in the US last month. I think I'd
> choose the 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck or the Delvac 1 formulas for older
> diesels if I had a choice, but the newer oil should be JUST fine - if
> you can find it.
>
> Marshall
> --
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
> 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen


Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV

2006-06-27 Thread Tom Scordato
Although Marshal has forgotten more than I know about this subject for what 
it is worth I have run my 1977 300D with 15w/50 M1 extended life and now my 
1979 240D with this product combined over 150K miles

Regards Tom Scordato
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV



LT Don wrote:

Are you saying that the "new" 15W-50 Ext is ok for our diesels? I was
laboring under the assumption that none of the Extended oils were
diesel-approved, and that the logical replacement was the 0W-40 Truck & 
SUV.


While M-1 15W-50 hasn't been approved by Mercedes (at least not yet) it
carries the same CF API rating and ACEA B3, B4 ratings. I would not
hesitate to use it in MY diesels.

M-1 ESP formula M 5W-40 was supposed to start showing up (Mercedes says,
"available in the USA on 5/15/06") in the US last month. I think I'd
choose the 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck or the Delvac 1 formulas for older
diesels if I had a choice, but the newer oil should be JUST fine - if
you can find it.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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