Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -

[andrew strasfogel]

I had good experiences on rebuilt CC and other components with Beckmann
Technologies (they advertise in the Star)

On Dec 26, 2007 5:02 PM, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi Kaleb,
> We've obviously had different experiences with GM ;-)
>
> -- Rusty's Amps are $240+ (don't recall the exact amount)
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> .
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin, work" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
>
>
> > Did you check with Rusty?  Im sorry, I just would not buy a stick of gum
> > off
> > GM.
> >
> > ---
> > Kaleb C. Striplin
> > Cox Auto Trader
> > 730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 12:08 PM
> > Subject: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
> >
> >
> >> FYI --
> >>Rec'd a rebuilt CC Amp Monday from Geo Murphy in Tenn - cost was
> $149
> >> +
> >> a $75 core charge - comes with a 1 year warranty -  write
> >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] for details -
> >>
> >>After checking a lot of companies offering the CC Amps, George's
> price
> >> seemed like the best price all around.
> >>
> >>I hope to install it during the next few days --  will be nice to
> have
> >> CC again -
> >>
> >> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> >> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> >> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> >> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> >> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> >> .
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
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> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date:
> > 12/25/2007 8:04 PM
> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control 1980 300D

[Jim Cathey]

> Check for a glove box or trunk light staying on.

Evil Chrysler Servos from Hell (TM) that can't fully
park themselves are well-known battery drainers.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[J.B. Hebert]

I have had good luck with peel and stick snow and ice products in 
other vehicles.  When I do my audio install and/or interior upgrade, 
I plan on using some in the E300D.  Did you happen to take some 
before and after dB readings in the Vanagon for comparison purposes?

J.B.

At 04:35 PM 12/26/2007, Zeitgeist wrote:

>In the past there's been some discussion of soundproofing solutions, 
>and many have opted to use self sticking asphalt sheeting like 
>Dynamat which is not locally available (at least around these 
>parts).  I recently found out about an alternative which is 
>available in your local Lowe's roofing department.  Peel & Seal ( 
>http://www.cofair.com/peel_seal.aspx 
>) is about $12 for a 6"x25' roll.  I recently swapped all the door 
>lock actuators and replaced them with Swiss-made MES units ( 
>http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm 
>) while installing aftermarket remote locks in my '89 VW Vanagon.  I 
>Peel & Sealed all the doors, which has resulted in a nice resounding 
>"thud" when shut--nice!  The rear hatch is so much heavier now that 
>I have to install new hatch struts, but I no longer have to push it 
>down to ensure that the latch catches--it just drops and latches in 
>one fell swoop.
>
>Just thought some of you might be interested...
>
>Casey
>'87 300TD  230k
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 
>12/25/2007 8:04 PM
-- next part --


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 12/25/2007 
8:04 PM
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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Jim Cathey]

> I was under the impression that a failed monovalve would
> provide heat at idle gradually cooling as the vehicle
> picked up speed.

That's certainly one symptom.  Full heat can be another.
A failed electrical portion (or wiring thereto) of the
monovalve would do it.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[Jim Cathey]

> easy enough to make a brand new one from plastic drop-cloth material
> if necessary using the old one as a template---I've even been known to
> use an old shower curtain.

No template required.  Spray glue on the door and push up your
favorite plastic.  Use scissors to cookie-cut around the door.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Dec 26, 2007 4:35 PM, LWB250 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Now
> that I think of it, there might be a small amount of
> weatherproofing adhesive used on the "O" that goes
> around the door check (which will have to be
> disconnected to do the job.)
>

On a 124 there definitely is (found out when fiddling with the checks the
last time), although on my car it had long since lost most of its
adhesivity---just left a residue on the jamb more than actually sticking.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[LWB250]

Door seals are pretty easy to replace, especially if
they're the original ones.  No glue, just press them
into the grooves for the most part.

I don't recall specifics for different chassis, but on
some there is a metal strip that on the leading edge
of the door to keep the seal from moving around.  Now
that I think of it, there might be a small amount of
weatherproofing adhesive used on the "O" that goes
around the door check (which will have to be
disconnected to do the job.)

I've done seals on everything from a W112 to a W126
and everything in between - they're not hard to do.

Make sure you get OE seals - DO NOT USE AFTERMARKET
RUBBER PARTS!

I won't go into details here, but long story short,
the price isn't significantly different but the fit,
quality and longevity IS.

MacDan



 
--- Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On Dec 26, 2007 4:06 PM, Peter Frederick
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Check the door seals, too -- a bad gasket will
> allow quite a bit of
> > noise to "leak" in.
> 
> Yeah, I suspect my door seals are original and have
> been meaning to
> replace them.  How hard is it?  Any tricks?
> 
> Alex
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Dec 26, 2007 4:06 PM, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Check the door seals, too -- a bad gasket will allow quite a bit of
> noise to "leak" in.

Yeah, I suspect my door seals are original and have been meaning to
replace them.  How hard is it?  Any tricks?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[Peter Frederick]

Check the door seals, too -- a bad gasket will allow quite a bit of 
noise to "leak" in.  First place to go is the sharp turn on the rear 
doors just above the latch, on the front doors it's on the front at the 
break on the window  line.  You can usually see dust on the surface of 
the gasket.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Dave M.]

Casey,

Are you getting any fan output at all? If not, I'd check the fan fuse,
which is either a 25A fuse in the fusebox on early 87's, or a 30A flat
strip fuse outside the fusebox on late '87 models. The monovalve and
vac system default into full-heat mode, but if there's no airflow from
the fan, you'll never feel any of that heat. :-(

Next, try gently turning the ignition key back towards 'off', just
slightly - not enough to make any of the idiot lights turn on. See if
the fan turns on. If so, the ignition switch is failing, but turning
the key back a bit should make things work for a while longer (a
couple of  years, in my case.)

Third, I'd check the aux heater pump, under the washer reservoir...
make sure this is not shorted out. Disconnect it if in doubt. Finally,
pull the blower motor and inspect the brushes... they usually don't
last more than 15-20 years. I somewhat doubt that the pushbutton unit
is the root cause of your problems, but if everything else checks out,
it could be. The factory ACC manual has a lot of step-by-step
troubleshooting procedures - it would be worthwhile to read that as
well.

=)

-- 
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 100kmi (Q-ship)
1993 300D - 167kmi (Sportline)
1987 300D - 284kmi (Sportline Stage 2)


> 
> On 12/26/07, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ah, so I'm presently experiencing a complete failure with my the climate
> control in my '87 300TD, which sorta sucks...you know, being that it's
> sub-freezing and all.  Right now I'm getting no heat or fan output at all.
> I thought the default failure mode would kick the mono-valve wide open,
> allowing full heat into the cabin--that's obviously not going on here.
>
> So, this started somewhat intermittently, with the fan failing to kick in
> until a few minutes after starting the car, even on defrost.  Then I noticed
> a clicking behind the dash when I accelerated first thing in the morning.
> Now, there's nothing at all.
>
> I just swapped in a spare pushbutton unit, but the failure mode is exactly
> the same.  I also changed the #7 fuse in the box.  I don't presently have my
> CD manual with me, so I'm blindly flailing around in desperation.  Does
> anyone have a clue what's going on here?  Klima?  OVP relay?
>
> TIA,
> Casey
>
> '87 300TD  230k
>

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[MBZ] Happy New Year

[archer]

> My Wish for you in 2008
--
 
> May peace break into your house and may
> thieves come to steal your debts.
> 
> May the pockets of your jeans become
> a magnet of  $100 bills.
> 
> May love stick to your face like Vaseline
> and may laughter assault your lips!
> 
> May your clothes smell of success like
> smoking tires !
> 
> May happiness slap you across the face
> and may your tears be that of joy.
> 
> May the problems you had forget your
> home address! In simple words 
> 
> May 2008 be the best year of your life!

Gerry and Nirmal the Cat

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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control 1980 300D

[Peter Frederick]

Check for a glove box or trunk light staying on.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Dec 26, 2007 3:55 PM, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Alex, I sealed any flat surface I can reach on the outer door skin
> (behind the window) and then any recessed areas on the inner door behind the
> door panel.

Ah, I see, so pretty much anywhere you can squeeze it in is going to
help.  Makes sense.


> I also made sure to reseal the inner plastic rain sheathing.

Yeah, I always check and fix or replace the rain barriers whenever I
have a door open (on any car that has them, not just on Mercedes).  It
bugs me when people don't---they are there for a good reason!  It's
easy enough to make a brand new one from plastic drop-cloth material
if necessary using the old one as a template---I've even been known to
use an old shower curtain.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[Zeitgeist]

Hi Alex, I sealed any flat surface I can reach on the outer door skin
(behind the window) and then any recessed areas on the inner door behind the
door panel.  I also made sure to reseal the inner plastic rain sheathing.
It's really an impressive improvement.  I'm getting ready to do the same on
my 124 when I replace 3 creaking door checks.  The Peel & Seal is easy to
apply 'cause it's only 6" wide, which can readily slip into tight spaces.

On Dec 26, 2007 2:03 PM, Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Thanks for the tip, Casey!  Where exactly did you stick the Peel &
> Seal material?  I have to open up all four doors on my car to install
> new door checks and had been planning to work a large, roughly square
> piece of Dynamat in behind the window mechanism, up against the outer
> door panel.
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo et al.
>
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[MBZ] Climate Control 1980 300D

[jgiels]

Continuing on the intermintant ability for the system to deliver anything but 
heat. I moved the interior temp sensor to be directly in the way of the side 
vent. Selected 65 degrees and viola it worked.

I seems that the foam tube that I used wasn't sealed enough and my fat hands 
loosened it up! Drove the car after changing the fuel filter and running purge 
through it and all seems fine. 

Just have to figure out why letting it sit since last friday it had a dead 
battery?

Douglas.. 
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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Hendrik & Fay]

A few days ago I went to look at a 89 low mileage 300TE, which came from 
Hong Kong.
While I had a gander at it I asked the salesperson if the A/C was 
operative, yes was the answer but he reckons the ignition key had to be 
jiggled a bit to get it to work.
Is replacing the ignition switch the only definite fix or can it be 
taken apart and rebuild?
At the moment they want 10K Oz for it but I may offer them 6K because it 
has only done less than 100K klms and has 7 seats. Also it appears to 
have a limited slip differential (ASD), what are these like? Do they 
give trouble and can they be replaced with a standard diff if needed?
Below is the output for the VIN (if it works):
Another odd thing is that according to the VIN data the color is 
supposed to be smoke silver but it has been resprayed black and they did 
not do a good job, this doesn't worry me except that it might be hiding 
rust because the front jacking holes looked odd. The ad is at this link:
http://search.carsguide.com.au/news/find-a-car/power-search/search-results/car-details.do?make=MERCEDES&model=300TE&make2=&model2=&make3=&model3=&keyword=&priceFrom=&priceTo=&body=&newBody=&transmission=&lifeStyle=&yearFrom=&yearTo=&location=All+Locations&postcode=&radius=&stockNumber=&sortFields=A&asc=true&pageNumber=&searchType=4&dealerId=&featureAd=false&vehicleId=NIMEMAAP6%3AMK74&vehicleType=1
*VIN*   WDB1240902F064072
*Model* 300 TE
*Chassis*   1240902F064072
*Engine*103983 22 103035
*Transmission*  722320 03 039556
*Order* 0 8 823 00060
*Delivery date* 25.01.88
*Dealer*Hong-Kong* (823)*
*Interior*  mb-tex black* (171)*
*Paint*
*702*   smoke silver metallic (? 01.01.1983)
*Options*
*211*   automatic limited slip differential (ASD) (? 01.07.1984)
rear axle with automatic limited slip differential (ASD)
*221*   left front seat, electrically adjustable (? 01.11.1978)
*242*   right front seat electrically adjustable with memory feature. 
only applicable to series w 210 when installed in conjunction with code 
275. (? 01.03.1983)
*412*   electric sliding roof with tilting device (? 01.07.1983)
*420*   automatic transmission, floor shift (? 01.01.1963)
*524*   paintcoat preservation (? 01.01.1964)
*547*   double roller blind and sun visors with mirrors on the left and 
right, illuminated (? 01.03.1982 ?? 31.07.1997)
*570*   folding armrest front w202/210 stowage box front with armrest (? 
01.04.1970)
front folding armrest w202 - housing at front with armrest
*586*   Behr air conditioner, and electric window lifters (front and rear 
doors) (? 01.04.1970)
*593*   heat-insulating glass, all-around, heated rear window pane 
(single-sheet safety glass), band filter
green heat-insulating glass all round, heated rear window, single pane 
safety glass - tinted strip (? 01.01.1972)
*601*   oil for rear axle with limited-slip differential, in canisters 
and containers (? 01.01.1964 ?? 31.01.1990)
*613*   lamp unit, asymmetrical, l.h. traffic (? 01.02.1963)
*640*   aluminium disc wheels with radial-ply tires (? 01.10.1969 ?? 
31.12.1989)
*677*   tropical battery (? 01.06.1965 ?? 30.11.1991)
*844*   folding seat bench in loading compartment, reverse to direction 
of travel (? 01.10.1977)


Hendrik
who needs more room than the 201 is offering

Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote:
> When you start the car, turn the ignition switch back just a hair.  The 
> spring in the switch is probably not completely returning to the run 
> position or its not making good contact when you start the car.  Just do it 
> a hair. Put it on defrost or something while doing this so you can tell for 
> sure if it comes back on.  Pretty common.  Just get used to doing that or 
> replace the ignition switch.
>
> ---
> Kaleb C. Striplin
> Cox Auto Trader
> 730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:32 AM
> Subject: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode
>
>
>   
>> Ah, so I'm presently experiencing a complete failure with my the climate
>> control in my '87 300TD, which sorta sucks...you know, being that it's
>> sub-freezing and all.  Right now I'm getting no heat or fan output at all.
>> I thought the default failure mode would kick the mono-valve wide open,
>> allowing full heat into the cabin--that's obviously not going on here.
>>
>> So, this started somewhat intermittently, with the fan failing to kick in
>> until a few minutes after starting the car, even on defrost.  Then I 
>> noticed
>> a clicking behind the dash when I accelerated first thing in the morning.
>> Now, there's nothing at all.
>>
>> I just swapped in a spare pushbutton unit, but the failure mode is exactly
>> the same.  I also changed the #7 fuse in the box.  I don't presently have 
>> my
>> CD manual with me, so I'm blindly flailing around in desperation.  Does
>> anyone have a clue what's going on here?  Klima?  OVP relay?
>>
>> TIA,
>> Casey
>>
>> '87 

Re: [MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Dec 26, 2007 1:35 PM, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  I Peel &
> Sealed all the doors, which has resulted in a nice resounding "thud" when
> shut--nice!

Thanks for the tip, Casey!  Where exactly did you stick the Peel &
Seal material?  I have to open up all four doors on my car to install
new door checks and had been planning to work a large, roughly square
piece of Dynamat in behind the window mechanism, up against the outer
door panel.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -

[LarryT]

Hi Kaleb,
We've obviously had different experiences with GM ;-)

-- Rusty's Amps are $240+ (don't recall the exact amount)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin, work" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -


> Did you check with Rusty?  Im sorry, I just would not buy a stick of gum 
> off
> GM.
>
> ---
> Kaleb C. Striplin
> Cox Auto Trader
> 730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 12:08 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
>
>
>> FYI --
>>Rec'd a rebuilt CC Amp Monday from Geo Murphy in Tenn - cost was $149 
>> +
>> a $75 core charge - comes with a 1 year warranty -  write
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] for details -
>>
>>After checking a lot of companies offering the CC Amps, George's price
>> seemed like the best price all around.
>>
>>I hope to install it during the next few days --  will be nice to have
>> CC again -
>>
>> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
>> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
>> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
>> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
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>> .
>>
>>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Fred Johnson]

Jim,

On your website you mention that full heat all the
time regardless of temp. settings, buttons pushed or
vehicle speed could be a symptom of monovalve failure.
 

I've been expereiencing this for the past two months
and was wondering what else it might be. I was under
the imporession that a failed monovalve would provide
heat at idle gradually cooling as the vehicle picke up
speed.

History - four years or so ago I replaced the
monovalve insert and the foam tube behind the dash. 

Thank You,
Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1983 300SD
1991 A-R 164L
1996 Civic
 


  

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[MBZ] Budget soundproofing

[Zeitgeist]

In the past there's been some discussion of soundproofing solutions, and
many have opted to use self sticking asphalt sheeting like Dynamat which is
not locally available (at least around these parts).  I recently found out
about an alternative which is available in your local Lowe's roofing
department.  Peel & Seal ( http://www.cofair.com/peel_seal.aspx ) is about
$12 for a 6"x25' roll.  I recently swapped all the door lock actuators and
replaced them with Swiss-made MES units (
http://www.a1electric.com/mes.htm) while installing aftermarket remote
locks in my '89 VW Vanagon.  I Peel &
Sealed all the doors, which has resulted in a nice resounding "thud" when
shut--nice!  The rear hatch is so much heavier now that I have to install
new hatch struts, but I no longer have to push it down to ensure that the
latch catches--it just drops and latches in one fell swoop.

Just thought some of you might be interested...

Casey
'87 300TD  230k
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Re: [MBZ] why would somebody pay this much for a car with a blown motor?

[Mitch Haley]

"Kaleb C. Striplin (CAT)" wrote:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120200757808

I'd pay $1000 for that if I had an engine to put in it.

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[MBZ] why would somebody pay this much for a car with a blown motor?

[Kaleb C. Striplin (CAT)]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120200757808&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=002

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor
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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Jim Cathey]

> Ah, so I'm presently experiencing a complete failure with my the 
> climate
> control in my '87 300TD,

You can also run the diagnostic checklist from my site:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Zeitgeist]

Ah yes, I forgot one little detail...my fan has been making some ominous
noises as of late--sorta like a jet taking off.  I assumed I'd still receive
some semblance of heat, even if the fan went completely TU.  Is there any
reason to buy the fan motor with both the squirrel cages attached,
especially given that they're another $150 over the bare motor?

The wiggling ignition key trick didn't work and I removed my auxiliary pump
years ago, after hearing that it could cause the pushbutton unit to die.
So, I'm guessing I just have a dead fan motor...bummer.  I'll swing by my
place later today and pick up my CD manual for the definitive check.  Thanks
all!

Casey

On Dec 26, 2007 9:50 AM, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Casey,
>
> Are you getting any fan output at all? If not, I'd check the fan fuse,
> which is either a 25A fuse in the fusebox on early 87's, or a 30A flat
> strip fuse outside the fusebox on late '87 models. The monovalve and
> vac system default into full-heat mode, but if there's no airflow from
> the fan, you'll never feel any of that heat. :-(
>
> Next, try gently turning the ignition key back towards 'off', just
> slightly - not enough to make any of the idiot lights turn on. See if
> the fan turns on. If so, the ignition switch is failing, but turning
> the key back a bit should make things work for a while longer (a
> couple of  years, in my case.)
>
> Third, I'd check the aux heater pump, under the washer reservoir...
> make sure this is not shorted out. Disconnect it if in doubt. Finally,
> pull the blower motor and inspect the brushes... they usually don't
> last more than 15-20 years. I somewhat doubt that the pushbutton unit
> is the root cause of your problems, but if everything else checks out,
> it could be. The factory ACC manual has a lot of step-by-step
> troubleshooting procedures - it would be worthwhile to read that as
> well.
>
> =)
>
> --
> Dave M.
> Boise, ID
> 1994 E500 - 100kmi (Q-ship)
> 1993 300D - 167kmi (Sportline)
> 1987 300D - 284kmi (Sportline Stage 2)
>
>
> > 
> > On 12/26/07, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Ah, so I'm presently experiencing a complete failure with my the climate
> > control in my '87 300TD, which sorta sucks...you know, being that it's
> > sub-freezing and all.  Right now I'm getting no heat or fan output at
> all.
> > I thought the default failure mode would kick the mono-valve wide open,
> > allowing full heat into the cabin--that's obviously not going on here.
> >
> > So, this started somewhat intermittently, with the fan failing to kick
> in
> > until a few minutes after starting the car, even on defrost.  Then I
> noticed
> > a clicking behind the dash when I accelerated first thing in the
> morning.
> > Now, there's nothing at all.
> >
> > I just swapped in a spare pushbutton unit, but the failure mode is
> exactly
> > the same.  I also changed the #7 fuse in the box.  I don't presently
> have my
> > CD manual with me, so I'm blindly flailing around in desperation.  Does
> > anyone have a clue what's going on here?  Klima?  OVP relay?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Casey
> >
> > '87 300TD  230k
> >
>
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Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -

[Kaleb C. Striplin, work]

Did you check with Rusty?  Im sorry, I just would not buy a stick of gum off 
GM.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 12:08 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -


> FYI --
>Rec'd a rebuilt CC Amp Monday from Geo Murphy in Tenn - cost was $149 +
> a $75 core charge - comes with a 1 year warranty -  write
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] for details -
>
>After checking a lot of companies offering the CC Amps, George's price
> seemed like the best price all around.
>
>I hope to install it during the next few days --  will be nice to have
> CC again -
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> .
>
>
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[MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -

[LarryT]

FYI --
Rec'd a rebuilt CC Amp Monday from Geo Murphy in Tenn - cost was $149 + 
a $75 core charge - comes with a 1 year warranty -  write 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] for details -

After checking a lot of companies offering the CC Amps, George's price 
seemed like the best price all around.

I hope to install it during the next few days --  will be nice to have 
CC again -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.


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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[LarryT]

I've tried to find the swaybar mounts in the WSM - without success - anyone 
have better luck?

Thx --

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket


> All of them.
>
> I think it's worse if the bushings are beaten out of them.  All of mine
> broke around 250,000 miles.
>
> Just normal wear and tear.
>
> Peter
>
>
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>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 
> 12/25/2007 8:04 PM
>
> 


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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Peter Frederick]

Bad temperature sensors.  You can check them from the right hand 
connector on the pushbutton unit.  A bad aux pump can cause all sorts 
of trouble, too, but shutting off outputs all the time.

Default is full heat with low or no blower and full defrost, so if you 
are getting hot air out the windshield vents, its electrical or vac 
failure.  If no heat, it's either a temp sensor or a wiring failure.

Check the wires on the coolant temp sensor (up on the upper radiator 
hose fitting).  Mine were broken, results in no heat as the PBU 
"thinks" the engine is about -40F.

Check the archives. I think I posted once which wires went to each 
sensor.

The clicking is the vac servo switchover valve changing modes.  An 
intermittantly shorted or open sensor will do this.

Peter
On Dec 26, 2007, at 11:32 AM, Zeitgeist wrote:

> Ah, so I'm presently experiencing a complete failure with my the 
> climate
> control in my '87 300TD, which sorta sucks...you know, being that it's
> sub-freezing and all.  Right now I'm getting no heat or fan output at 
> all.
> I thought the default failure mode would kick the mono-valve wide open,
> allowing full heat into the cabin--that's obviously not going on here.
>
> So, this started somewhat intermittently, with the fan failing to kick 
> in
> until a few minutes after starting the car, even on defrost.  Then I 
> noticed
> a clicking behind the dash when I accelerated first thing in the 
> morning.
> Now, there's nothing at all.
>
> I just swapped in a spare pushbutton unit, but the failure mode is 
> exactly
> the same.  I also changed the #7 fuse in the box.  I don't presently 
> have my
> CD manual with me, so I'm blindly flailing around in desperation.  Does
> anyone have a clue what's going on here?  Klima?  OVP relay?
>
> TIA,
> Casey
>
> '87 300TD  230k
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Re: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Kaleb C. Striplin, work]

When you start the car, turn the ignition switch back just a hair.  The 
spring in the switch is probably not completely returning to the run 
position or its not making good contact when you start the car.  Just do it 
a hair. Put it on defrost or something while doing this so you can tell for 
sure if it comes back on.  Pretty common.  Just get used to doing that or 
replace the ignition switch.

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: "Zeitgeist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode


> Ah, so I'm presently experiencing a complete failure with my the climate
> control in my '87 300TD, which sorta sucks...you know, being that it's
> sub-freezing and all.  Right now I'm getting no heat or fan output at all.
> I thought the default failure mode would kick the mono-valve wide open,
> allowing full heat into the cabin--that's obviously not going on here.
>
> So, this started somewhat intermittently, with the fan failing to kick in
> until a few minutes after starting the car, even on defrost.  Then I 
> noticed
> a clicking behind the dash when I accelerated first thing in the morning.
> Now, there's nothing at all.
>
> I just swapped in a spare pushbutton unit, but the failure mode is exactly
> the same.  I also changed the #7 fuse in the box.  I don't presently have 
> my
> CD manual with me, so I'm blindly flailing around in desperation.  Does
> anyone have a clue what's going on here?  Klima?  OVP relay?
>
> TIA,
> Casey
>
> '87 300TD  230k
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Re: [MBZ] starting craziness - SOLVED

[Christopher McCann]

The rod that runs out of the lock to the switch broke. The switch is fine. PITA 
getting it all out, but now that I've done it once, it wouldn't be so bad to do 
again.

Got new part and old one is removed, now just to install new and get Wulf back 
on the road.

Thanks,

Chris



John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Christopher McCann wrote:

> Very strange - any ideas? I'm hoping a relay, perhaps? I checked and
> swapped around the ice cubes (not sure which ones do what) and that
> had no effect. Didn't check the other relays. Fuses are all fine.

My guess is that the switch that the key tumbler connects to has broken. 
   I think a new one is pretty affordable, but have no idea on how to 
replace it.

John






-1985 300SD, 369K km, "Wulf"
-1992 350 Ram Wagon, 1 Ton, 58K mi, "Der Abschleppwagen"
-1975 240D manual, W115, "Projekt-Wagen 1"
-1980 300SD, W116, "Projekt-Wagen 2"
-1985 300Dt, W123, "Projekt-Wagen 3"
-1984 300Dt, W123, "Projekt-Wagen 4"
   
-
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Re: [MBZ] Whoa

[E M]

yeah, and check out that 3 place McLaren F1 seating. lol

Ed
300E

On 26/12/2007, David Bruckmann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The Air Car:
>
> http://www.theaircar.com/
>
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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[LarryT]

Thx for all the replies - I'm at 140k so damage would be premature - 
also, our 124 has been on smooth interstates most of the time AFAIK. 
Definately the last 55K miles though - my wife drove to work (50 mi ea way) 
on some of the nicest roads in the Commonwealth (Va).

I'll check them next time I do a service -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket


>I am quite certain that impact load (rough roads) shorten the life of
> the brackets.  Normally don't fail until high milage, and mine sure
> looked like a fatigue (stress corrosion) failure.  They seem to break
> at the 90 degree bend at the top or at the start of the "cup" on the
> bottom, never anywhere else.
>
> Peter
>
>
> ___
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>
> -- 
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> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 
> 12/25/2007 8:04 PM
>
> 


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[MBZ] Climate Control Failure Mode

[Zeitgeist]

Ah, so I'm presently experiencing a complete failure with my the climate
control in my '87 300TD, which sorta sucks...you know, being that it's
sub-freezing and all.  Right now I'm getting no heat or fan output at all.
I thought the default failure mode would kick the mono-valve wide open,
allowing full heat into the cabin--that's obviously not going on here.

So, this started somewhat intermittently, with the fan failing to kick in
until a few minutes after starting the car, even on defrost.  Then I noticed
a clicking behind the dash when I accelerated first thing in the morning.
Now, there's nothing at all.

I just swapped in a spare pushbutton unit, but the failure mode is exactly
the same.  I also changed the #7 fuse in the box.  I don't presently have my
CD manual with me, so I'm blindly flailing around in desperation.  Does
anyone have a clue what's going on here?  Klima?  OVP relay?

TIA,
Casey

'87 300TD  230k
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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[Zeitgeist]

Mine all broke up at the top near the 90.  I welded a large thick washer to
the front side of the mounting surface, then added some supporting ribs to
reduce the flexing at that juncture.  That was maybe two months ago, so
we'll see how it holds up.  I think it's the new speed bumps in my
neighborhood that are the major source of the problem...other than the fact
that I sometimes fail to slow down sufficiently.  Really, I'm the source of
the problem, but I digress...

On Dec 26, 2007 9:11 AM, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I am quite certain that impact load (rough roads) shorten the life of
> the brackets.  Normally don't fail until high milage, and mine sure
> looked like a fatigue (stress corrosion) failure.  They seem to break
> at the 90 degree bend at the top or at the start of the "cup" on the
> bottom, never anywhere else.
>
> Peter
>
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

With that standard, I have 100K miles to go-but then there will be Boston
potholes this spring.
Dwight 

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1978 240D 4 speed. 215K miles.  
1979 240D- auto -250K + miles (FOR SALE)
1990 300D 2.5t 150K miles
Wickford, RI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 9:32 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

All of them.

I think it's worse if the bushings are beaten out of them.  All of mine 
broke around 250,000 miles.

Just normal wear and tear.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[Peter Frederick]

I am quite certain that impact load (rough roads) shorten the life of 
the brackets.  Normally don't fail until high milage, and mine sure 
looked like a fatigue (stress corrosion) failure.  They seem to break 
at the 90 degree bend at the top or at the start of the "cup" on the 
bottom, never anywhere else.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Whoa

[David Bruckmann]

The Air Car:

http://www.theaircar.com/

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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[Peter Frederick]

The brackets are fine on the wagon, which now has 225000 on it or so.  
Also has the heavier sway bar ends.  Rubber was dead when I got it at 
196,000.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Dec 26, 2007 6:32 AM, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I think it's worse if the bushings are beaten out of them.  All of mine
> broke around 250,000 miles.
>

For what it's worth, my car has 214K mi and the suspension rubber was
all original until a couple of years ago (when I swapped in 500E sway
bars... wonder if that has something to do with the failure?).

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[Peter Frederick]

All of them.

I think it's worse if the bushings are beaten out of them.  All of mine 
broke around 250,000 miles.

Just normal wear and tear.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

Good question, Larry. I was wondering the same thing.  Is there some
association with high mileage?
Dwight 

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1978 240D 4 speed. 215K miles.  
1979 240D- auto -250K + miles (FOR SALE)
1990 300D 2.5t 155K miles
Wickford, RI



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 8:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

What kind of W124s does this happen on?  I assume I should be checking my 91

300D 2.5t?

Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket


> BTDT, twice now in the same spot (different cars).  The nut is welded
> on, get new sway bar bushings (all four) and do the job once.
>
> Part is about $20.  You cannot weld the old one, it's hardened spring
> steel and will quickly fracture adjacent to the weld.
>
> One of mine broke at the botttom "cup" for the sway bar bushing, the
> other broke at the bend on the top.  The first one was quite noisy, the
> second totally silent.
>
> Make sure you get the correct one, they are different side to side.
>
> Peter
>
> On Dec 25, 2007, at 10:10 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
>
>> Well, this was a nice Christmas present: sudden banging and popping
>> noises from the front right side of my 124.  Attched picture shows the
>> cause.  The bracket connecting the inner sway bar mount to the body
>> broke!
>>
>> I see in the online EPC that this is available as a separate part.  I
>> have a request in to Rusty for the price.  (And if it's too many
>> beans, I'll just have the old one welded.)My only question to the
>> group is, how do I get it off?  Am I going to regret unscrewing the
>> bolt holding the bracket to the "frame rail" just inside the wheel
>> (big bolt head at the top of the picture)?  I'm hoping that it just
>> threads right into the body, but what if there's a nut on the other
>> side that's going to come loose and rattle around in an inaccessible
>> spot for all eternity?  Anyone know, or done this fix before?
>>
>> Thanks (and Happy Festivus)!
>>
>> Alex Chamberlain
>> '87 300D Turbo et al.
>> -- next part --
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: 124 broken sway bar mount.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 559765 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> Url :
>> http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/
>> 20071225/8cd2d8f9/attachment.jpg
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>>
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>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
> ___
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 
> 12/25/2007 8:04 PM
> 


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[MBZ] Fw: [Banned] Thanks

[Kaleb C. Striplin, work]

---
Kaleb C. Striplin
Cox Auto Trader
730-Tulsa FSBO Supervisor

- Original Message - 
From: "Regina M. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Banned List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 8:17 AM
Subject: [Banned] Thanks


> Thank you to EVERYONE on this list that helped give these children a Great 
> Christmas. All they could talk about was how this was the best Christmas 
> ever. I will post pictures of them with their presents a little later so 
> you can all see my new angels-(sometimes).
> I really appreciate all of your kindness throughout my newest fiasco.
>
> My Brother-In-Law thinks that he make bail. He sent the kids a Christmas 
> card (that I did not read to them).
> It said " I am having a better vacation now. I am in a better hotel now. I 
> am able to play cards with my friends and watch TV. It's nicer!
> Isn't that special? My sister is dead and he is on vacation. What a piece 
> of work.
> Anyway thank you for your support, kindness, and prayers.
> Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!
> Regina
>
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] Home remedies

[LarryT]

LOL when I read #3 and #6!  Great -
thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Luther" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 2:16 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Home remedies


> AMAZINGLY SIMPLE HOME REMEDIES
>
>
>
> 1. When choking on an ice cube, simply pour a cup of boiling water down 
> your
> throat. Presto! The blockage will instantly remove itself.
>
>
>
> 2. Avoid cutting yourself slicing vegetables by getting someone else to 
> hold
> while you chop.
>
>
>
> 3. Avoid arguments with the Mrs.. about lifting the toilet seat by using 
> the
> sink.
>
>
>
> 4. To treat high blood pressure: simply cut yourself and bleed for a few
> minutes, thus reducing the pressure in your veins.  Remember to use a 
> timer.
>
>
>
> 5. A mouse trap, placed on top of your alarm clock, will prevent you from
> rolling over and going back to sleep after you hit the snooze button.
>
>
>
> 6. If you have a bad cough, take a large dose of laxatives, then you will 
> be
> afraid to cough.
>
>
>
> 7. You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't 
> move and
> should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
>
>
>
> 8. When confused remember, everyone seems normal until you get to know 
> them.
>
>
>
> Daily Thought:
>
> SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES.
> NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN 
> PUSHED
> DOWN THE STAIRS.
> -- 
> Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
> '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
> '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi) BioBeast
> '82 300CD (170 kmi)
> '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
> '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 
> 12/25/2007 8:04 PM
>
> 


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Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket

[LarryT]

What kind of W124s does this happen on?  I assume I should be checking my 91 
300D 2.5t?

Thx -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: "Peter Frederick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 broken swaybar mount bracket


> BTDT, twice now in the same spot (different cars).  The nut is welded
> on, get new sway bar bushings (all four) and do the job once.
>
> Part is about $20.  You cannot weld the old one, it's hardened spring
> steel and will quickly fracture adjacent to the weld.
>
> One of mine broke at the botttom "cup" for the sway bar bushing, the
> other broke at the bend on the top.  The first one was quite noisy, the
> second totally silent.
>
> Make sure you get the correct one, they are different side to side.
>
> Peter
>
> On Dec 25, 2007, at 10:10 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
>
>> Well, this was a nice Christmas present: sudden banging and popping
>> noises from the front right side of my 124.  Attched picture shows the
>> cause.  The bracket connecting the inner sway bar mount to the body
>> broke!
>>
>> I see in the online EPC that this is available as a separate part.  I
>> have a request in to Rusty for the price.  (And if it's too many
>> beans, I'll just have the old one welded.)My only question to the
>> group is, how do I get it off?  Am I going to regret unscrewing the
>> bolt holding the bracket to the "frame rail" just inside the wheel
>> (big bolt head at the top of the picture)?  I'm hoping that it just
>> threads right into the body, but what if there's a nut on the other
>> side that's going to come loose and rattle around in an inaccessible
>> spot for all eternity?  Anyone know, or done this fix before?
>>
>> Thanks (and Happy Festivus)!
>>
>> Alex Chamberlain
>> '87 300D Turbo et al.
>> -- next part --
>> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
>> Name: 124 broken sway bar mount.jpg
>> Type: image/jpeg
>> Size: 559765 bytes
>> Desc: not available
>> Url :
>> http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/
>> 20071225/8cd2d8f9/attachment.jpg
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 
> 12/25/2007 8:04 PM
> 


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