Re: [MBZ] more dog stuff

[Tom Hargrave]

Just like people, all dogs are the same size in their own minds.

Thanks, Tom
256-656-1924

-Original Message-
From: "Craig McCluskey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: 6/14/08 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] more dog stuff

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 21:03:38 -0400 "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> the idiot lizard is going with the kid to disney, so i am thinking to
> bring her chihuahua mix over to my house.  as i've mentioned before,
the
> little dog is a tad aggressive and my big german goes nuts on any
other
> female who shows her aggression or fear.  you guys see anywhere for
them
> to play nice together or is it pretty much the little dog will have to
> stay behind some sort of protective wall whenever the other two dogs
are
> in the house?

Unless you keep them separated, it sounds like the recipe for
minced-punt-dog pie.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Was: secret message for OK Don, now pre-chambers

[OK Don]

Turns out that the slanted pre-chamber head and the verticle
pre-chamber heads us diifferent retaining rings. The head for the
603.970 engine (350SDL) uses 601 017 02 03, while the original head
for a 603.961 engine uses 601 017 01 03.

All this explains why the little berry doesn't fit my retaining rings 

The later head also had "nozzle holder bushings" around the injector,
601 017 01 50, which is now a discontinued part. I guess they decided
that they didn't need those after all.

On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 9:58 PM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ummm - different rings - need different berry.
>
> On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 8:43 PM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Let me be more vague  The grooved end should fit into the pre-chamber 
>> retaining ring then install your 1/2" rachet handle into the other.  Does 
>> this help clear the mud?
>>

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)

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Re: [MBZ] Was: secret message for OK Don, now pre-chambers

[OK Don]

Ummm - different rings - need different berry.

On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 8:43 PM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Let me be more vague  The grooved end should fit into the pre-chamber 
> retaining ring then install your 1/2" rachet handle into the other.  Does 
> this help clear the mud?
>
> Luther
>
> On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 20:40:39 -0500, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Small berry should slide down into the pre-chamber retaining ring.
>>
>> On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 20:20:49 -0500, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>>> Berries arrived sans turtle bites today.  The big berry works great.
>>> I'm still having problems deciding what the little one is for.
>>>
>>> The pre-chamber retaining rings on this engine have two notches that
>>> are turned by a special tool.  The small berry has what look to be the
>>> male version of the delivery valve splines - but larger. They would go
>>> into female splines on something - but certainly nothing around the
>>> injectors/pre-chambers on this engine.
>>>
>>> I made the "special tool" by grinding down a 15/16" socket (I had two
>>> of them before this exercise started) leaving to tabs to fit into the
>>> notches in the retaining rings. On the second try I got it to fit
>>> pretty well, but it keeps slipping up and out on the side opposite of
>>> the ratchet handle. I need to find a way to keep it straight and level
>>> when applying torque. I did get one retaining ring out, and then
>>> pulled the pre-chamber with the big berry - slow but successful.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:17 AM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 10-4

 On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 12:53 AM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The turtles have your berries.
>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
> '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
> '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
> '82 300CD (166 kmi)
> '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
> '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)

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Re: [MBZ] more dog stuff

[Chuck Landenberger]

Gary,

Or maybe you could figger out a way to create a "german  
chihuahua"..

Never mind...

Chuck
On Jun 14, 2008, at 6:09 PM, Craig McCluskey wrote:

> On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 21:03:38 -0400 "Gary Hurst"  
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
>> the idiot lizard is going with the kid to disney, so i am thinking to
>> bring her chihuahua mix over to my house.  as i've mentioned  
>> before, the
>> little dog is a tad aggressive and my big german goes nuts on any  
>> other
>> female who shows her aggression or fear.  you guys see anywhere  
>> for them
>> to play nice together or is it pretty much the little dog will  
>> have to
>> stay behind some sort of protective wall whenever the other two  
>> dogs are
>> in the house?
>
> Unless you keep them separated, it sounds like the recipe for
> minced-punt-dog pie.
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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[MBZ] Vac Pump

[Dan Weeks]

On Jun 14, 2008, at 7:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Did you repair it or put on a new pump?

I was on the road, on a business trip, so I dropped it off at a  
highly recommended indy. They diagnosed it, and replaced it with a  
new pump, which I had them order from Rusty. It wasn't cheap, but it  
works like new. If you can put the kit in, you could save quite a  
bit, of course. Good luck!

Dan


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Re: [MBZ] Was: secret message for OK Don, now pre-chambers

[Luther]

Let me be more vague  The grooved end should fit into the pre-chamber 
retaining ring then install your 1/2" rachet handle into the other.  Does this 
help clear the mud?

Luther

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 20:40:39 -0500, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Small berry should slide down into the pre-chamber retaining ring.
>
> On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 20:20:49 -0500, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Berries arrived sans turtle bites today.  The big berry works great.
>> I'm still having problems deciding what the little one is for.
>>
>> The pre-chamber retaining rings on this engine have two notches that
>> are turned by a special tool.  The small berry has what look to be the
>> male version of the delivery valve splines - but larger. They would go
>> into female splines on something - but certainly nothing around the
>> injectors/pre-chambers on this engine.
>>
>> I made the "special tool" by grinding down a 15/16" socket (I had two
>> of them before this exercise started) leaving to tabs to fit into the
>> notches in the retaining rings. On the second try I got it to fit
>> pretty well, but it keeps slipping up and out on the side opposite of
>> the ratchet handle. I need to find a way to keep it straight and level
>> when applying torque. I did get one retaining ring out, and then
>> pulled the pre-chamber with the big berry - slow but successful.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:17 AM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> 10-4
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 12:53 AM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 The turtles have your berries.

>>
>
>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] Was: secret message for OK Don, now pre-chambers

[Luther]

Small berry should slide down into the pre-chamber retaining ring.

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 20:20:49 -0500, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Berries arrived sans turtle bites today.  The big berry works great.
> I'm still having problems deciding what the little one is for.
>
> The pre-chamber retaining rings on this engine have two notches that
> are turned by a special tool.  The small berry has what look to be the
> male version of the delivery valve splines - but larger. They would go
> into female splines on something - but certainly nothing around the
> injectors/pre-chambers on this engine.
>
> I made the "special tool" by grinding down a 15/16" socket (I had two
> of them before this exercise started) leaving to tabs to fit into the
> notches in the retaining rings. On the second try I got it to fit
> pretty well, but it keeps slipping up and out on the side opposite of
> the ratchet handle. I need to find a way to keep it straight and level
> when applying torque. I did get one retaining ring out, and then
> pulled the pre-chamber with the big berry - slow but successful.
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:17 AM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> 10-4
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 12:53 AM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>> The turtles have your berries.
>>>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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[MBZ] Was: secret message for OK Don, now pre-chambers

[OK Don]

Berries arrived sans turtle bites today.  The big berry works great.
I'm still having problems deciding what the little one is for.

The pre-chamber retaining rings on this engine have two notches that
are turned by a special tool.  The small berry has what look to be the
male version of the delivery valve splines - but larger. They would go
into female splines on something - but certainly nothing around the
injectors/pre-chambers on this engine.

I made the "special tool" by grinding down a 15/16" socket (I had two
of them before this exercise started) leaving to tabs to fit into the
notches in the retaining rings. On the second try I got it to fit
pretty well, but it keeps slipping up and out on the side opposite of
the ratchet handle. I need to find a way to keep it straight and level
when applying torque. I did get one retaining ring out, and then
pulled the pre-chamber with the big berry - slow but successful.


On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:17 AM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 10-4
>
> On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 12:53 AM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> The turtles have your berries.
>>

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)

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Re: [MBZ] more dog stuff

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 21:03:38 -0400 "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> the idiot lizard is going with the kid to disney, so i am thinking to
> bring her chihuahua mix over to my house.  as i've mentioned before, the
> little dog is a tad aggressive and my big german goes nuts on any other
> female who shows her aggression or fear.  you guys see anywhere for them
> to play nice together or is it pretty much the little dog will have to
> stay behind some sort of protective wall whenever the other two dogs are
> in the house?

Unless you keep them separated, it sounds like the recipe for
minced-punt-dog pie.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CDT

[OK Don]

Great list, Luther, but I think the brake fluid is DOT 4, period. DOT
3 boils at too low a temp, and DOT 5 is synthetic, which the system is
not designed for.

On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 7:24 PM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Oil: CI-4 rated.  Chevron Delo400 or Mobil Delvac1300 are the best 
> non-synthetic 15w-40.  Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 (change every 5,000 mi)
> Coolant: Buy from Rusty/Mercedes OR Zerex G-5 ONLY! (change every 2 years)
> Rear end: any 90w gear oil, Mobil 1 synthetic is great (change every 60kmi)
> tranny: Dextron III or better.  Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is AWESOME, ask me why 
> :) (change every 30kmi)
> Brake: DOT 3 or better.  Buy from Rusty/Mercedes OR use Valvoline Synpower. 
> (change evey year? or 2 years?)
> Power steering: same fluid you use in the transmission (change every 2 years?)
> Washer fluid: something with RainX :D (add when needed)
> Cup Holder: your favorite non-alcoholic beverage :D (buy when needed)
>
> Luther

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)

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[MBZ] more dog stuff

[Gary Hurst]

the idiot lizard is going with the kid to disney, so i am thinking to bring
her chihuahua mix over to my house.  as i've mentioned before, the little
dog is a tad aggressive and my big german goes nuts on any other female who
shows her aggression or fear.  you guys see anywhere for them to play nice
together or is it pretty much the little dog will have to stay behind some
sort of protective wall whenever the other two dogs are in the house?
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Re: [MBZ] 124 evapectomy (RN Opinion)

[Bill R]

For what it's worth, I strongly second Luther's recommendation.  Please go
get it checked out -- tonight!
Sue (Bill R's wife)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Luther
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 8:27 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 evapectomy

When in doubt, have it X-rayed.  I've sprained many an ankle and NEVER heard
any "snap, crackle, and pop".  Both ankles I've fractured had
odd/frightening sounds.  Neither ankle was diagnosed later that day and I
was lucky neither needed surgery when I finally made it to the doctor.

Luther, multi-sport athlete and veteran to injuries

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:14:28 -0500, Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> 'Planning to put the dash back in tomorrow.  'Think I could have finished
it
> all today if I'd gotten serious about it.
>
> 'Turned my ankle really bad this morning while I was hassling with the
> grommet for the blower motor wire; 'may have broken my foot.  'Have a big
> knot on the side.  My feet and legs are nearly numb beneath the knees,
> anyway, and I have to be really careful placing my feet when walking -
'got
> in a hurry and forgot to watch that my left foot was on an uneven spot of
> grass; ankle collapsed outward; didn't quite fall, but I heard lots of
> crunching.
>
> Wilton
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

___
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Re: [MBZ] 124 evapectomy

[Luther]

When in doubt, have it X-rayed.  I've sprained many an ankle and NEVER heard 
any "snap, crackle, and pop".  Both ankles I've fractured had odd/frightening 
sounds.  Neither ankle was diagnosed later that day and I was lucky neither 
needed surgery when I finally made it to the doctor.

Luther, multi-sport athlete and veteran to injuries

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:14:28 -0500, Wilton Strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 'Planning to put the dash back in tomorrow.  'Think I could have finished it
> all today if I'd gotten serious about it.
>
> 'Turned my ankle really bad this morning while I was hassling with the
> grommet for the blower motor wire; 'may have broken my foot.  'Have a big
> knot on the side.  My feet and legs are nearly numb beneath the knees,
> anyway, and I have to be really careful placing my feet when walking - 'got
> in a hurry and forgot to watch that my left foot was on an uneven spot of
> grass; ankle collapsed outward; didn't quite fall, but I heard lots of
> crunching.
>
> Wilton
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CDT

[Luther]

Oil: CI-4 rated.  Chevron Delo400 or Mobil Delvac1300 are the best 
non-synthetic 15w-40.  Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck 5w-40 (change every 5,000 mi)
Coolant: Buy from Rusty/Mercedes OR Zerex G-5 ONLY! (change every 2 years)
Rear end: any 90w gear oil, Mobil 1 synthetic is great (change every 60kmi)
tranny: Dextron III or better.  Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is AWESOME, ask me why :) 
(change every 30kmi)
Brake: DOT 3 or better.  Buy from Rusty/Mercedes OR use Valvoline Synpower. 
(change evey year? or 2 years?)
Power steering: same fluid you use in the transmission (change every 2 years?)
Washer fluid: something with RainX :D (add when needed)
Cup Holder: your favorite non-alcoholic beverage :D (buy when needed)

Luther


On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:59:59 -0500, David Hemsley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> I have a different computer and cannot log onto the okie site right now.  Nor 
> will this !!! think allow me to download the Java plug in I need to do so.
>
>
> Will someone please advise me what the approved/suggested fuids are for this 
> vehicle:
>
> oil, coolant, rear end, tranny, etc.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Dave H...
>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

___
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Re: [MBZ] OT: A/C recharge

[Rich Thomas]

Cleaning up my garage workshop to move, I found 2 cans of R12 tucked 
away!!!  I had a vague idea I had them, but they were buried, guess I'll 
have to work on Brunnhilde at some point to find out where the leak is.  
Back after I got the car I spent a day fooling around with various 
things, finally put about half a can in and it cycled on and was blowing 
some cool air, but then it all leaked out the next day.

The R134 stuff is easy though, my truck is out of it again, it has a 
slow leak in there somewhere too.  I bought one of the cans of UV dye 
and a little laser and glasses, will have to give that thing a try.

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:
> So a couple weeks ago I noticed the A/C in my '96 Dodge Dakota wasn't doing 
> much anymore. It got a little bit cool but definately not what I wanted to 
> see. The truck only has 215,000 miles you can't buy quality anymore. ;)
>
> Today I picked up a 19oz can of recharge. Autozone also had nice little 
> booklets. That along with some internet instructions (The Expert Village 
> videos on youtube are worth watching) got that can in. 
> The compressor wasn't cycling at all when I started, now it'll stay on 
> constantly. I got up to about 30 pounds so it really needs another (smaller I 
> think) can.
>
> Anyway its pretty easy to do, the refrigerant purportedly has some lubricant 
> and leak sealer in it.  The only tip I'd give is to remember to shake 
> the can while you're doing it, it goes a lot faster that way.
>
> -Curt
>
>
>
>   
> ___
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>
>
>   

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[MBZ] 1985 300CDT

[David Hemsley]

I have a different computer and cannot log onto the okie site right now.  Nor 
will this !!! think allow me to download the Java plug in I need to do so.


Will someone please advise me what the approved/suggested fuids are for this 
vehicle:

oil, coolant, rear end, tranny, etc.


Thanks,
Dave H...

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[MBZ] OT: A/C recharge

[Curt Raymond]

So a couple weeks ago I noticed the A/C in my '96 Dodge Dakota wasn't doing 
much anymore. It got a little bit cool but definately not what I wanted to see. 
The truck only has 215,000 miles you can't buy quality anymore. ;)

Today I picked up a 19oz can of recharge. Autozone also had nice little 
booklets. That along with some internet instructions (The Expert Village videos 
on youtube are worth watching) got that can in. 
The compressor wasn't cycling at all when I started, now it'll stay on 
constantly. I got up to about 30 pounds so it really needs another (smaller I 
think) can.

Anyway its pretty easy to do, the refrigerant purportedly has some lubricant 
and leak sealer in it.  The only tip I'd give is to remember to shake the 
can while you're doing it, it goes a lot faster that way.

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] 124 evapectomy

[Bill R]

At my age I know how important it is to take care of those things so they
don't get a chance to cause real problems.  Take care of yourself.
BillR 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Wilton Strickland
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 6:14 PM
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] 124 evapectomy

'Planning to put the dash back in tomorrow.  'Think I could have finished it
all today if I'd gotten serious about it.

'Turned my ankle really bad this morning while I was hassling with the
grommet for the blower motor wire; 'may have broken my foot.  'Have a big
knot on the side.  My feet and legs are nearly numb beneath the knees,
anyway, and I have to be really careful placing my feet when walking - 'got
in a hurry and forgot to watch that my left foot was on an uneven spot of
grass; ankle collapsed outward; didn't quite fall, but I heard lots of
crunching.

Wilton


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[MBZ] 240D progress

[Curt Raymond]

Another day when I felt like I just HAD to fix something. Figured the 
non-functioning fog lights I'd just installed would be easy. Pulled the covers 
(yay for greasing the nuts!) pull the bulbs out, they're fine. Multi-meter on 
the wires, no power. No power at the fuse either, odd, must be a dirty switch. 
I setup the multi so I can see it while I'm in the car, hop in turn on the 
lights and...
Hmm the brights are on...
Oh sheesh.
So some people probably already know that the fog lights turn OFF when the high 
beams are on. I guess I knew but had forgotten and when testing I didn't 
actually get IN the car so I didn't notice the high beam indicator.
Anyway easy fix, problem was at the controls.

I'd bought some "Seafoam Deep Creep" to try out on the sticky locks, while I 
was at it I tried it on the sticky driver's door handle which now works 
properly as does the rear door on that side.
On the lock front I got frustrated and resorted to heating up my backup brass 
key in an attempt to get some heat at the problem.  I heated the key until 
my glove started to smoke then stuck it in the lock and jiggled, repeated that 
several times.
Before heat I had about 1/16" turn clockwise and nothing counter clockwise, now 
I have about 1/16" turn each way. That seems like at least minor progress. Its 
hot out so I finally shot a bunch more deep creep in and left it...

-Curt



  
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[MBZ] 124 evapectomy

[Wilton Strickland]

'Planning to put the dash back in tomorrow.  'Think I could have finished it
all today if I'd gotten serious about it.

'Turned my ankle really bad this morning while I was hassling with the
grommet for the blower motor wire; 'may have broken my foot.  'Have a big
knot on the side.  My feet and legs are nearly numb beneath the knees,
anyway, and I have to be really careful placing my feet when walking - 'got
in a hurry and forgot to watch that my left foot was on an uneven spot of
grass; ankle collapsed outward; didn't quite fall, but I heard lots of
crunching.

Wilton


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[MBZ] 124 evapectomy

[Wilton Strickland]

Here are a coupla photos of the area immediately to the right of the
steering column between the steering column and the evap box.  You have to
clear EVERYTHING out of this area to allow clearance for the heater pipe,
freon pipes, expansion valve and the large grommet around the freon pipes to
go in and out.  Notice that I was able to pull everything up and to the left
and lay it on top of the large, heavy brace for the steering column - that's
the master switch/steering lock assembly, wires, electronic boxes, etc.,
moved left and up out of the way.

BTW, these photos were made after reinsertion of the evap box.

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] cracked vacuum lines

[Allan Streib]

Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> Well the problem with the vac pump is either the drive is bad
> (probably a very low failure rate), the rubber diaphragm in the pump
> is torn (highest probability I would think), and the little one-way
> valves inside the vac pump are goobered up.  #3, you can get at them
> by taking a cover plate off, be careful to note which way they go.
> #s 1 and 2 require you to take the vac pump off and rebuild it.  I
> have the procedure on my web site if you decide to do that (for a
> 123).  Oh, the lines to/from the vac pump could be goobered up too,
> easy enough to take off and clean out.

Looked at your site -- my pump is a little different but overall looks
fairly straightforward.

Earlier today I got as far as removing the pump, then realized my son
had a baseball game in an hour so I had to quickly clean up and head
for the ballpark.

Is the actual disassembly of the pump, and replacement of the repair
kit parts, pretty self-explanatory?  I don't have any shop manuals for
my car.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] organized

[RELNGSON]

> ..Apparently in your guilded perfect world..
> 
Yes, I was a Union member. How did you know?

RLE





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  (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg0005000102)
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Re: [MBZ] neutral

[RELNGSON]

> ..The putting the car into neutral was just about the only safe way to stop 
> on
> icy roads [when, admittedly I probably shouldn't have been driving 
> anyway]...
> 
Right. This is the way to descend not-too-steep hills. Lets the ABS work 
better, keeping you out of the ditches.

RLE





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Re: [MBZ] 300D valve cover baffle repair

[Archer]

Sorry about the multiple messages.  This newly loaded WinXP OS is screwing 
up.
Gerry

> Thanks guys.  Just what I needed to know.
> Gerry
> 
SNIP 


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Re: [MBZ] 300D valve cover baffle repair

[Archer]

Thanks guys.  Just what I needed to know.
Gerry

Rich Thomas wrote:
I got some of that epoxy putty that comes in a round stick, you knead it
together and then it activates, you have 10 min or so to organize it,
sets up hard as a rock.  I used some to patch a leak in a PVC drain
pipe.  That stuff would probably work well.  I think it is Loctite
brand, got it at Lowes, Marine Epoxy Putty or something like that (it
apparently will stick to wet stuff, I did not try that with the pipe).
Appears to be the same stuff that BILLY MAYS!!! sells on his TV
pitches.  I am getting that oil blowby, guess I will need to try that fix.
--R
---
From: "Glenn Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Looking further, I found the following which was a Marshall B. response
> that
> he had saved from R. Durrance:
> Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 13:51:02 -0500
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> Subject: Re: [DIESEL] 123 oil loss
> Johnny and Jim, DO NOT use JB Weld to fix the the baffle in the valve
> cover - USE 5 minute epoxy. Randy Durrance specificially makes that
> point in his original post on the subject - BELOW.
>>  Is there a recommended way to reseal the breather baffle inside the
>> valve
>>  cover? What do you actually look for, to determine if it needs to be
>> resealed?
>>  What brand/make of RTV is recommended to use for resealing?
 
>>This is usually done when the valves get adjusted. Pull the valve
>> cover
>> off and look at the front edge of the oil baffle plate where it meets the
>> inside of the valve cover close to the oil cap and breather. If it has
> been fixed, you'll see a gray epoxy covered area. If it needs fixing,
> you'll
> see about an eighth inch gap. Clean the area with brake-clean and apply
> epoxy.
>> Don't use RTV. Don't use J-B Weld (it takes too long to dry and will ooze
>> through the gap. The official stuff was Lock-Tite/NAPA  5-minute epoxy.
>> It
>> does an excellent job and is oil resistant. We used to do this at the M-B
>> dealer in the 1980s. It paid an additional 2 tenths of an hour to do the
> job
>> with a valve adjustment.
>>Regards,
>>  Randy D.


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Re: [MBZ] 300D valve cover baffle repair

[Archer]

Thanks guys.  Just what I needed to know.
Gerry

Rich Thomas wrote:
I got some of that epoxy putty that comes in a round stick, you knead it
together and then it activates, you have 10 min or so to organize it,
sets up hard as a rock.  I used some to patch a leak in a PVC drain
pipe.  That stuff would probably work well.  I think it is Loctite
brand, got it at Lowes, Marine Epoxy Putty or something like that (it
apparently will stick to wet stuff, I did not try that with the pipe).
Appears to be the same stuff that BILLY MAYS!!! sells on his TV
pitches.  I am getting that oil blowby, guess I will need to try that fix.
--R
---
From: "Glenn Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Looking further, I found the following which was a Marshall B. response
> that
> he had saved from R. Durrance:
> Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 13:51:02 -0500
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> Subject: Re: [DIESEL] 123 oil loss
> Johnny and Jim, DO NOT use JB Weld to fix the the baffle in the valve
> cover - USE 5 minute epoxy. Randy Durrance specificially makes that
> point in his original post on the subject - BELOW.
>>  Is there a recommended way to reseal the breather baffle inside the
>> valve
>>  cover? What do you actually look for, to determine if it needs to be
>> resealed?
>>  What brand/make of RTV is recommended to use for resealing?
 
>>This is usually done when the valves get adjusted. Pull the valve
>> cover
>> off and look at the front edge of the oil baffle plate where it meets the
>> inside of the valve cover close to the oil cap and breather. If it has
> been fixed, you'll see a gray epoxy covered area. If it needs fixing,
> you'll
> see about an eighth inch gap. Clean the area with brake-clean and apply
> epoxy.
>> Don't use RTV. Don't use J-B Weld (it takes too long to dry and will ooze
>> through the gap. The official stuff was Lock-Tite/NAPA  5-minute epoxy.
>> It
>> does an excellent job and is oil resistant. We used to do this at the M-B
>> dealer in the 1980s. It paid an additional 2 tenths of an hour to do the
> job
>> with a valve adjustment.
>>Regards,
>>  Randy D.


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Re: [MBZ] 300D valve cover baffle repair

[Archer]

Thanks guys.  Just what I needed to know.
Gerry

Rich Thomas wrote:
I got some of that epoxy putty that comes in a round stick, you knead it
together and then it activates, you have 10 min or so to organize it,
sets up hard as a rock.  I used some to patch a leak in a PVC drain
pipe.  That stuff would probably work well.  I think it is Loctite
brand, got it at Lowes, Marine Epoxy Putty or something like that (it
apparently will stick to wet stuff, I did not try that with the pipe).
Appears to be the same stuff that BILLY MAYS!!! sells on his TV
pitches.  I am getting that oil blowby, guess I will need to try that fix.
--R
---
From: "Glenn Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Looking further, I found the following which was a Marshall B. response
> that
> he had saved from R. Durrance:
> Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 13:51:02 -0500
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> Subject: Re: [DIESEL] 123 oil loss
> Johnny and Jim, DO NOT use JB Weld to fix the the baffle in the valve
> cover - USE 5 minute epoxy. Randy Durrance specificially makes that
> point in his original post on the subject - BELOW.
>>  Is there a recommended way to reseal the breather baffle inside the
>> valve
>>  cover? What do you actually look for, to determine if it needs to be
>> resealed?
>>  What brand/make of RTV is recommended to use for resealing?
 
>>This is usually done when the valves get adjusted. Pull the valve
>> cover
>> off and look at the front edge of the oil baffle plate where it meets the
>> inside of the valve cover close to the oil cap and breather. If it has
> been fixed, you'll see a gray epoxy covered area. If it needs fixing,
> you'll
> see about an eighth inch gap. Clean the area with brake-clean and apply
> epoxy.
>> Don't use RTV. Don't use J-B Weld (it takes too long to dry and will ooze
>> through the gap. The official stuff was Lock-Tite/NAPA  5-minute epoxy.
>> It
>> does an excellent job and is oil resistant. We used to do this at the M-B
>> dealer in the 1980s. It paid an additional 2 tenths of an hour to do the
> job
>> with a valve adjustment.
>>Regards,
>>  Randy D.


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Re: [MBZ] 300D valve cover baffle repair

[Archer]

Thanks guys.  Just what I needed to know.
Gerry

Rich Thomas wrote:
I got some of that epoxy putty that comes in a round stick, you knead it
together and then it activates, you have 10 min or so to organize it,
sets up hard as a rock.  I used some to patch a leak in a PVC drain
pipe.  That stuff would probably work well.  I think it is Loctite
brand, got it at Lowes, Marine Epoxy Putty or something like that (it
apparently will stick to wet stuff, I did not try that with the pipe).
Appears to be the same stuff that BILLY MAYS!!! sells on his TV
pitches.  I am getting that oil blowby, guess I will need to try that fix.
--R
---
From: "Glenn Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Looking further, I found the following which was a Marshall B. response
> that
> he had saved from R. Durrance:
> Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 13:51:02 -0500
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> Subject: Re: [DIESEL] 123 oil loss
> Johnny and Jim, DO NOT use JB Weld to fix the the baffle in the valve
> cover - USE 5 minute epoxy. Randy Durrance specificially makes that
> point in his original post on the subject - BELOW.
>>  Is there a recommended way to reseal the breather baffle inside the
>> valve
>>  cover? What do you actually look for, to determine if it needs to be
>> resealed?
>>  What brand/make of RTV is recommended to use for resealing?
 
>>This is usually done when the valves get adjusted. Pull the valve
>> cover
>> off and look at the front edge of the oil baffle plate where it meets the
>> inside of the valve cover close to the oil cap and breather. If it has
> been fixed, you'll see a gray epoxy covered area. If it needs fixing,
> you'll
> see about an eighth inch gap. Clean the area with brake-clean and apply
> epoxy.
>> Don't use RTV. Don't use J-B Weld (it takes too long to dry and will ooze
>> through the gap. The official stuff was Lock-Tite/NAPA  5-minute epoxy.
>> It
>> does an excellent job and is oil resistant. We used to do this at the M-B
>> dealer in the 1980s. It paid an additional 2 tenths of an hour to do the
> job
>> with a valve adjustment.
>>Regards,
>>  Randy D.


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Re: [MBZ] 300D valve cover baffle repair

[Archer]

Rich Thomas wrote:
I got some of that epoxy putty that comes in a round stick, you knead it
together and then it activates, you have 10 min or so to organize it,
sets up hard as a rock.  I used some to patch a leak in a PVC drain
pipe.  That stuff would probably work well.  I think it is Loctite
brand, got it at Lowes, Marine Epoxy Putty or something like that (it
apparently will stick to wet stuff, I did not try that with the pipe).
Appears to be the same stuff that BILLY MAYS!!! sells on his TV
pitches.  I am getting that oil blowby, guess I will need to try that fix.
--R
---
From: "Glenn Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Looking further, I found the following which was a Marshall B. response 
> that
> he had saved from R. Durrance:
> Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 13:51:02 -0500
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> Subject: Re: [DIESEL] 123 oil loss
> Johnny and Jim, DO NOT use JB Weld to fix the the baffle in the valve
> cover - USE 5 minute epoxy. Randy Durrance specificially makes that
> point in his original post on the subject - BELOW.
>>  Is there a recommended way to reseal the breather baffle inside the 
>> valve
>>  cover? What do you actually look for, to determine if it needs to be
>> resealed?
>>  What brand/make of RTV is recommended to use for resealing?
 
>>This is usually done when the valves get adjusted. Pull the valve 
>> cover
>> off and look at the front edge of the oil baffle plate where it meets the
>> inside of the valve cover close to the oil cap and breather. If it has
> been fixed, you'll see a gray epoxy covered area. If it needs fixing, 
> you'll
> see about an eighth inch gap. Clean the area with brake-clean and apply 
> epoxy.
>> Don't use RTV. Don't use J-B Weld (it takes too long to dry and will ooze
>> through the gap. The official stuff was Lock-Tite/NAPA  5-minute epoxy. 
>> It
>> does an excellent job and is oil resistant. We used to do this at the M-B
>> dealer in the 1980s. It paid an additional 2 tenths of an hour to do the
> job
>> with a valve adjustment.
>>Regards,
>>  Randy D.


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Re: [MBZ] any one have $40,000 to loan me?

[Luther]

HAHA.  If I had the $40,000, I'd have an extra $300 to fly out and drive it 
home the next day!  If you're lucky, I'd let you pick me up from the airport in 
it :D

Luther

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 14:20:15 -0500, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> This is close to me!
>
> Let me know when you find the $40,000. I'll pick it up, store it for you &
> drive it once a week to keep all of the systems in good working
> order
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> www.kegkits.com
> 256-656-1924
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Luther
> Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 11:59 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] any one have $40,000 to loan me?
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB
> %3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=300233475387
>
> DR
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] any one have $40,000 to loan me?

[Tom Hargrave]

This is close to me!

Let me know when you find the $40,000. I'll pick it up, store it for you &
drive it once a week to keep all of the systems in good working
order

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Luther
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 11:59 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] any one have $40,000 to loan me?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB
%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=300233475387

DR

-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] more bad advice

[Curt Raymond]

Are you kidding? The Hilux is the truck they couldn't kill on TopGear.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UNUKptyKdMM

Its also the truck (granted heavily modified) that they drove to the North Pole
http://youtube.com/watch?v=au3lPNc-lGU&feature=related

A friend had a mid '80s Toyota that was a real tough truck until t-boned by a 
semi...
I'd like to find one of them that wasn't all rusted out or didn't have a 
million miles on it.


-Curt

Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:32:03 -0400
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] more bad advice
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID:
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Toyota makes a very nice small 4-door diesel pickup called the Hilux.
Unfortunately they don't sell them in the US. I'm not surprised - they
are small tinny deathtraps which I only hope never to have an accident
in. They are popular in the Caribbean - which is probably okay as the
speed limits on the smaller islands never exceed 60 Kph. Still, it
would not be fun to hit anything while driving one.
The base model has no ABS or airbags, and can be picked up by 4 people
if it gets stuck. Kinda like a life-sized tonka toy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux

-Dave Walton


  
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Re: [MBZ] The New World Order (WAS june 4, 1944)

[Mitch Haley]

Rich Thomas wrote:
> I have pointed out to various dimwits occasionally that their lights are
> inappropriate and offensive when pointed at another driver, I usually
> get told to FO or something similar by the good citizens. 

That's why I always carry a pocket knife. Copper wire cuts easy, unless
it's encased in steel conduit. (OTOH, most of these morons are using 
factory installed lights without exposed wiring)

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Re: [MBZ] The New World Order (WAS june 4, 1944)

[Rich Thomas]

I put a pair of 100W Dick Cepek off-road pencil beams (you get a mile or 
so of reach on the beach, like daylight) on my old Blazer, had them 
aimed right into the windshield of that oncoming BMW that always has its 
aux driving lights on, and aimed right at my eyes.  Blink the brights a 
few times, BMW driver blinks his to show s/he does not have the 
high-beams on, then hit the eye-burners (hey look at my way cool aux 
driving lights, why, they're just like yours, sorta!).  Of course the 
geniuses driving the BMWs never understand, but there is some other 
factor at work there I think.  The same behavior has spread to most of 
the drivers of lux-cars that have the aux lights, and of course big-ass 
SUVs that have them higher off the road but still aimed right in your 
eyes for some reason.  I guess they think it looks cool or something to 
drive around the wilds of street-lighted urbia with their extra lights on. 

I have pointed out to various dimwits occasionally that their lights are 
inappropriate and offensive when pointed at another driver, I usually 
get told to FO or something similar by the good citizens.  I have quit 
doing that as I do not want to get shot by someone who feels his manhood 
has been impugned, though most BMW drivers probably would not be packing 
anything but a cell phone.

--R

LarryT wrote:
> Life's just no fun.  ;-)
>
> Personally, I always wanted a pair of the most powerful Cibie's driving 
> lights possible mounted so when ever someone was driving 55 in the passing 
> lane - I could turn on those Big Momma driving lights and melts the rear end 
> of their car until it exploded in flame.  Then they'd turn off that dam 
> left-turn signal and pull over!
>   
>

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Re: [MBZ] Truck Buying Advice

[Jim Cathey]

> How many miles are on your Cummins, and is it auto tranny or manny??

About 75kmi, stickshift.  We drive it when we need a truck,
not otherwise.  (OK, my wife ferries schoolkids in it on field
trips as it'll hold six people.  The only other vehicle we have
that will carry six is the Falcon, but it has no seat belts.)
It is also the designated spare vehicle of choice, but right
now it's still down with a bad tire.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] The New World Order (WAS june 4, 1944)

[LarryT]

Hey Mitch,
You're right - but we, being peons are supposed to be grateful for the 
little crumbs the 536 morons inside the beltway see fit to give us.

Even though I and you and at least 30 million more like us believe 
strongly in the 2nd Amendment I can see the time when we could lose them 
completely a piece at a time.  Granted, it would bring this country closer 
to a revolution than anything else I can think of -  but unless something 
dramatic happens the 2nd A will continue to be weakened and watered down 
until it;s meaningless.

It's encouraging to see "Shall Issue" laws being passed in 40 states 
IIRC, but they still hold onto control pretty tightly.  Just like everything 
else.  We're nice little servents and freedom is only an illusion.

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs



- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The New World Order (WAS june 4, 1944)


>
> LarryT wrote:
>> Ya'll probably know there are people who own awesome fully auto weapons
>> already - all needed is a license which comes with a background check and
>> fee.
>
> But how do you license and tax a constitutionally guaranteed civil right? 
> Is it OK if I make you
> pass a background check and pay a $200 tax every time you go to church?
>
> And how do you place (thanks, Ron Reagan) a total ban on the licensing of 
> constitutionally
> guaranteed property that wasn't previously licensed and taxed? Those 
> awesome full autos you mention
> might be $500-2000 new, but you haven't been able to buy a new one since 
> 1986, the old ones are
> either not being used or wearing out, and if they are in good condition 
> they start at about $5000
> for a Uzi and I think a M16 is more like $20,000.
>
> Mitch.
>
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[MBZ] any one have $40,000 to loan me?

[Luther]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=300233475387

DR

-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] The New World Order (WAS june 4, 1944)

[LarryT]

Life's just no fun.  ;-)

Personally, I always wanted a pair of the most powerful Cibie's driving 
lights possible mounted so when ever someone was driving 55 in the passing 
lane - I could turn on those Big Momma driving lights and melts the rear end 
of their car until it exploded in flame.  Then they'd turn off that dam 
left-turn signal and pull over!

Or the absolte worst (even worse than "Left lane bandits") are those 
that pull onto the on ramp then must STOP and turn around slowly to watch 
the traffic zoom past while everyone behind them slams on the brakes to 
avoid the moron - yep, light 'em up until he explodes then  push his a$$ out 
of the way.   See?  I'm non-violent!

Course, some wise "you know what" will get on his cell and tell them 
something about a driver with illegal equipment...  then all the fun is 
over - along with the buzz ---

;-)

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs



- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] The New World Order (WAS june 4, 1944)


> You are such a buzz killer.
>
> --R
>
> LarryT wrote:
>> You can probably mount one - and it'll be ok until you use it *once* as 
>> the
>> police will hunt you down like a dog and charge you with attempted murder 
>> or
>> at least assault with a deadly weapon.!  Then the problem will be gone. 
>> And
>> Rich will be getting to know his new cellmate.  Can you say "hide the 
>> soap?"
>> ;-)  see - these things are self limiting.
>>
>> But sure, you can have one (IMHO)  ;-)
>>
>> Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
>> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
>> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
>> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
>> 800-583-8601
>> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>>
>>
>>
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "Rich Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>> Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 11:10 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] The New World Order (WAS june 4, 1944)
>>
>>
>>
>>> I would like a high-powered UV laser to mount on my truck, a kilowatt or
>>> three should be sufficient, adaptive optics, gimballed lock and track,
>>> voice-controlled automatic target ID and firing, so I can fry the tires
>>> of the idiots who cut in front me on the freeway without using signals.
>>> And maybe to etch little love notes in the paint of their trunks and
>>> rear hatches.  And to repel foreign and domestic threats too.
>>>
>>> Where can I get me one a them?  Do I need a permit?
>>>
>>> --R
>>>
>>> andrew strasfogel wrote:
>>>
 For those who missed it:

 "If indeed the Second Amendment provides an absolute, constitutional
 protection for the right to bear arms in order to preserve the power of
 the
 people to resist government tyranny, then it must allow individuals to
 possess bazookas, torpedoes, SCUD missiles and even nuclear warheads, 
 for
 they, like handguns, rifles and M-16s, are arms. Moreover, it is hard 
 to
 imagine any serious resistance to the military without such arms. Yet
 few,
 if any, would argue that the Second Amendment gives individuals the
 unlimited right to own any weapons they please. But as soon as we allow
 governmental regulation of any weapons, we have broken the dam of
 Constitutional protection. Once that dam is broken, we are not talking
 about
 whether the government can constitutionally restrict arms, but rather
 what
 constitutes a reasonable restriction."

 On Thu, Jun 12, 2008 at 11:49 PM, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



> I know no one wants me to write a few thoudsand words about the ACLU 
> and
> gun
> control - but the stuff they say on the link provided contain a lot of
> inaccuracies.  As far as it being a collective right all one need do 
> is
> read
> what the framers said about gun ownership.  i.e., they feel every man
> out
> to
> be armed.  As Mitch said, in all amendment the people means the people
> but
> in the 2ndA the people means the militia, yeah, right.  BTW, the
> Supremes
> never said it was a collective right.
>
> Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> 800-583-8601
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "John Robbins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 4:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] The New World Order (WAS june 4, 1944)
>
>
>
>
>>>

Re: [MBZ] 300D valve cover baffle repair

[Rich Thomas]

I got some of that epoxy putty that comes in a round stick, you knead it 
together and then it activates, you have 10 min or so to organize it, 
sets up hard as a rock.  I used some to patch a leak in a PVC drain 
pipe.  That stuff would probably work well.  I think it is Loctite 
brand, got it at Lowes, Marine Epoxy Putty or something like that (it 
apparently will stick to wet stuff, I did not try that with the pipe).  
Appears to be the same stuff that BILLY MAYS!!! sells on his TV 
pitches.  I am getting that oil blowby, guess I will need to try that fix.

--R

Glenn Brown wrote:
> Looking further, I found the following which was a Marshall B. response that
> he had saved from R. Durrance:
>
>
> Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 13:51:02 -0500
>
> From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
> Subject: Re: [DIESEL] 123 oil loss
>
>
>
> Johnny and Jim, DO NOT use JB Weld to fix the the baffle in the valve
>
> cover - USE 5 minute epoxy. Randy Durrance specificially makes that
>
> point in his original post on the subject - BELOW.
>
>
>
>   
>>  Is there a recommended way to reseal the breather baffle inside the valve
>> 
>
>
>   
>>  cover? What do you actually look for, to determine if it needs to be
>> 
>
>   
>> resealed?
>> 
>
>   
>>  What brand/make of RTV is recommended to use for resealing?
>> 
>
>   
>
>
>
>   
>>This is usually done when the valves get adjusted. Pull the valve cover
>> 
>
>
>   
>> off and look at the front edge of the oil baffle plate where it meets the
>> 
>
>   
>> inside of the valve cover close to the oil cap and breather. If it has
>> 
> been
>
>   
>> fixed, you'll see a gray epoxy covered area. If it needs fixing, you'll
>> 
> see
>
>   
>> about an eighth inch gap. Clean the area with brake-clean and apply epoxy.
>> 
>
>
>   
>> Don't use RTV. Don't use J-B Weld (it takes too long to dry and will ooze
>> 
>
>   
>> through the gap. The official stuff was Lock-Tite/NAPA  5-minute epoxy. It
>> 
>
>
>   
>> does an excellent job and is oil resistant. We used to do this at the M-B
>> 
>
>   
>> dealer in the 1980s. It paid an additional 2 tenths of an hour to do the
>> 
> job
>
>   
>> with a valve adjustment.
>> 
>
>   
>>Regards,
>> 
>
>   
>>  Randy D.
>> 
>
>
>
> Marshall
>
> - --
>
>
>
> G. M. Brown
>
> Brevard, NC
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>
>   
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Re: [MBZ] Part Needed

[Mitch Haley]

OK, I see now. In that case, you don't want to rebuild what you have.
If somebody is parting out a 240D and wants to sell you one super cheap, you

can do that and decide whether you want to install it as-is or rebuild it.
OTOH, you can just buy a pair from Rusty and not have to worry about it
for another 20 years or so.

LarryT wrote:
> 
> It was kind of a strange failure.  The metal part of the hose rubbed the...

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Re: [MBZ] SDL rides yet again

[Luther]

Odometer gears are the same breeze on the 126 cluster.  With the cluster out, 
there are 2 screws that hold a clear plastic cover in place.  Remove them, and 
the gears slide (or break apart into pieces) off their shafts.  The smallest 
drive gear is crimped in place and the replacement gear (from 
www.odometergears.com) is friction fit back onto it's shaft.  Simply put the 
same number of teeth on the gears back in position, and all is good.

Luther

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 07:49:22 -0500, David Hemsley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
>
>
> 
>> Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:34:34 -0500
>> To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Subject: [MBZ] SDL rides yet again
>>
>> The rain started just as I picked up (to bring inside) the last of my tools 
>> from the transmission swap.  Fired the engine up, added the last of 2qts 
>> (has 6.? qts in it now) of cheap wal-mart ATF, and then dropped it into 
>> reverse.  It took less than 1/2 second to engage reverse.  Nice.  Took it 
>> for a short test drive, and all shifts are smooth with no flaring at low 
>> throttle and fairly crisp at medium/medium-high throttle.  I'll get it on 
>> the interstate tomorrow.
>>
>> Next project is removing the cluster and replacing the odometer gears and 
>> outside temp gauge.
>>
>> --
>> Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
>> '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
>> '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
>> '82 300CD (166 kmi)
>> '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
>> '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine
>>
>
> Great work on the tranny!
>
> I know nothing about the odometer gears but the temp display is a breeze to 
> change.
>
>
> Dave H...
>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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[MBZ] 300D valve cover baffle repair

[Glenn Brown]

Looking further, I found the following which was a Marshall B. response that
he had saved from R. Durrance:


Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 13:51:02 -0500

From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>

Subject: Re: [DIESEL] 123 oil loss



Johnny and Jim, DO NOT use JB Weld to fix the the baffle in the valve

cover - USE 5 minute epoxy. Randy Durrance specificially makes that

point in his original post on the subject - BELOW.



>  Is there a recommended way to reseal the breather baffle inside the valve


>  cover? What do you actually look for, to determine if it needs to be

> resealed?

>  What brand/make of RTV is recommended to use for resealing?

>



>This is usually done when the valves get adjusted. Pull the valve cover


> off and look at the front edge of the oil baffle plate where it meets the

> inside of the valve cover close to the oil cap and breather. If it has
been

> fixed, you'll see a gray epoxy covered area. If it needs fixing, you'll
see

> about an eighth inch gap. Clean the area with brake-clean and apply epoxy.


> Don't use RTV. Don't use J-B Weld (it takes too long to dry and will ooze

> through the gap. The official stuff was Lock-Tite/NAPA  5-minute epoxy. It


> does an excellent job and is oil resistant. We used to do this at the M-B

> dealer in the 1980s. It paid an additional 2 tenths of an hour to do the
job

> with a valve adjustment.

>Regards,

>  Randy D.



Marshall

- --



G. M. Brown

Brevard, NC
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Re: [MBZ] more bad advice

[dave walton]

Toyota makes a very nice small 4-door diesel pickup called the Hilux.
Unfortunately they don't sell them in the US. I'm not surprised - they
are small tinny deathtraps which I only hope never to have an accident
in. They are popular in the Caribbean - which is probably okay as the
speed limits on the smaller islands never exceed 60 Kph. Still, it
would not be fun to hit anything while driving one.
The base model has no ABS or airbags, and can be picked up by 4 people
if it gets stuck. Kinda like a life-sized tonka toy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Hilux

-Dave Walton

On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 9:44 PM, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> Further, I'm loving all the advice in re: buy a 20-30 year old vehicle as a
>> business vehicle.
>
> I was, of course, joking about the Rabbit P/U. The pity of it is, there
> were tons of vehicles which did just what he wanted, 20-30 years ago,
> and you can't buy one now. A Datsun King Cab would be perfect, but I
> suspect the Nissan Frontier is as overgrown as the others today.
>
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Re: [MBZ] 91 350SDL tac

[dave walton]

I recently had a problem on an 87SDL where the Tachometer worked
intermittently for several weeks, then failed completely.  Resistance
across pins 1&2 on the Klima (Kilma) relay socket was ~ 9k ohms - so
the wires to the engine speed sensor were probably okay. Swapping the
overvoltage relay fixed the problem. Taking apart the bad relay showed
2 solder joints that failed mechanically. There were dark circles
around the soldered pin breaking the smooth solder surface.
Resoldering them fixed the problem. Marshall spoke several times about
corroded connections to the engine speed sensor being problematic as
well. That would probably show up as very low or most likely very high
resistance to the engine speed sensor - but only if you measured it
while it was in failure mode. Corroded connections could ohm out okay
and still impede the signal, however.

HTH

-Dave Walton

On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 9:30 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> overvoltage relay
>
> Wilton Strickland wrote:
>> 'Bout an hour ago while at about 30 mph in the 350SDL, a needle "flicker" on
>> the instrument panel suddenly cought my eye.  The tac had gone to 0!  Air
>> speed was stilI good at 30; engine response good - still plenty of power,
>> but tac was at 0.  After coupla minutes, tac suddenly jumped back up to
>> normal and stayed normal for rest of several bocks running some errands,
>> including coulpa engine shutdowns and restarts.  Tac OK when I shutdown back
>> at home.  Tips?
>>
>> Wilton
>>
>>
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>>
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
>  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
>  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
>  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
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[MBZ] 1`24 ecvapectomy

[Wilton Strickland]

The evap box is bolted in place!  'Didn't do much on it yesterday 'cause of
other stuff.  Late yesterday afternoon, I got everything ready for
insertion - wires, etc., tied out of the way for clear path to the hole in
the firewall, planned transport to the car on the walker, including down the
kitchen steps, etc.  You'd thought I was launching a space shuttle.
Everything went very smoothly, 'cept getting the rubber grommet for the
blower wire installed in the hole in the firewall.  The wire is eccentric
(sloped off to one side) in the grommet making it even harder to handle,
especially with one hand.  After several tries and poking it all the way
through the hole, I got it installed.  I thought it was cool enough this
morning I wouldn't put the fan on me, but by the time I finished the hassle
with the grommet, I was soaking wet with perspiration.  'Some more jiggling,
pushing, etc., to clear wires by the steering column (really tight) and
insert drain pipes in holes above transmission, and I bolted the box
securely in place with a nut at each corner.  'Plugged in coulpa wires and
vac lines, and now taking a break for a shower; probably cut the "weeds" in
back yard before doing more evapectomy work.  I'll be sure to set up the fan
before I get back to it this afternoon.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] transwarp drive restored on the E420

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

oh yea, i think so.  Its got 275 hp in a smaller 124, the euro 5.0 is 
about 280 I think, in a bigger car

OK Don wrote:
> It it faster than the Euro 5.0 / 280SE?
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
  89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] SDL rides yet again

[David Hemsley]

> Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:34:34 -0500
> To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [MBZ] SDL rides yet again
> 
> The rain started just as I picked up (to bring inside) the last of my tools 
> from the transmission swap.  Fired the engine up, added the last of 2qts (has 
> 6.? qts in it now) of cheap wal-mart ATF, and then dropped it into reverse.  
> It took less than 1/2 second to engage reverse.  Nice.  Took it for a short 
> test drive, and all shifts are smooth with no flaring at low throttle and 
> fairly crisp at medium/medium-high throttle.  I'll get it on the interstate 
> tomorrow.
> 
> Next project is removing the cluster and replacing the odometer gears and 
> outside temp gauge.
> 
> -- 
> Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
> '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
> '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
> '82 300CD (166 kmi)
> '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
> '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine
> 
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Great work on the tranny!

I know nothing about the odometer gears but the temp display is a breeze to 
change.


Dave H...
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Re: [MBZ] 240D killed, but lots of parts available

[LarryT]

Hi Kevin,
Do you have the lower hose that runs from the oil filter housing to the 
lower oil cooler connection?  can you provide vin so I can check 
compatibility?  just need the last part - i.e., if manual wil look like 
"10-nn" or if A/T "12-nn"

If available, please provide price.

Thx!
Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs



- Original Message - 
From: "Kevin Slater" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D killed, but lots of parts available


> It's on the firewall and I won't be driving that car anytime soon, so I 
> can
> pull it any time. Only a couple of bolts, a few cables and a couple of 
> hose
> clamps if I remember right.
>
> ...Kevin
>
> On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 9:07 AM, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> wrote:
>
>> Let me know when you get down to pulling that part.
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 6:14 AM, Kevin Slater 
>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > Yes, both working fine. We actually replaced the exiting plastic valve
>> with
>> > a metal one we found while scrounging a wrecker for other parts.
>> >
>> > ...Kevin
>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>> LT Don
>> http://don.homelinux.net/~don/ 
>>
>> apt-get update
>> apt-get upgrade
>> The following packages will be replaced
>> Prez
>> Do you want to continue? [Y/n] Y
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>>
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>>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Part Needed

[LarryT]

It was kind of a strange failure.  The metal part of the hose rubbed the 
chassis and it wore a hole in the hose metal.  Took a while just to find 
where the oil was coming from!

I guess I could have it brazed but I'd always worry about it splitting 
again.Course, when I install it this time I'll also put some chafe 
protection - a short piece of garden water hose should do the trick -

Actually I had not thought about repairing this one - thanks for the 
suggestion!

Larry T (66 MGB, 74 911, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
800-583-8601
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs



- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 6:24 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Part Needed


> LarryT wrote:
>> I need a part for the 78 240D - the Lower hose that runs from the bottom 
>> of
>> the oil filter housing & goes to the Oil Cooler lower connection
>
> Finding a used one that's less than 20 years old isn't likely to happen.
> I think your choices boil down to taking it to a hydraulic shop and have a
> new rubber hose crimped on the original fittings, or paying Rusty for a 
> new one.
> If one died of old age, the other one isn't far behind, so I'd replace 
> both.
>
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Re: [MBZ] more bad advice

[Bill R]

Always interesting to know about the theory; I also know about trying to
stop my car at stop signs heading home when I worked at Butler University
[Indianapolis] and got caught after an ice storm.  Worst was with the car in
drive; much better shifting into neutral; and though it has been quite a few
years I remember occasions when I was sliding into an intersection that
putting the car into reverse slowed my forward progress even more. I
couldn't explain the physics of it, other than to suggest that it was not a
question of sliding vs. rolling, but sliding vs. 'reverse rolling.'  I don't
ever hope to be in a situation where I can check it out again.  That and
carrying cat litter for traction when you got stuck are about all I remember
of driving in the frozen wastelands of Indiana.
BillR

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Luther
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 12:15 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] more bad advice

Shifting into reverse will weaken your stopping power.  I remember learning
in physics that rolling resistance is GREATER than sliding resistance.

Luther

On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 21:30:12 -0500, Bill R <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The putting the car into neutral was just about the only safe way to stop
on
> icy roads [when, admittedly I probably shouldn't have been driving
anyway].
> On occasion I even would put it into reverse and let the wheels spin
> backwards a bit to help me slow down after an ice storm.  I was out at all
> hours and if an ice storm hit at the wrong time I had to figure out how to
> get home safely.  Shifting into neutral was a major help.
> BillR
>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] Part Needed

[Mitch Haley]

LarryT wrote:
> I need a part for the 78 240D - the Lower hose that runs from the bottom of
> the oil filter housing & goes to the Oil Cooler lower connection

Finding a used one that's less than 20 years old isn't likely to happen.
I think your choices boil down to taking it to a hydraulic shop and have a
new rubber hose crimped on the original fittings, or paying Rusty for a new one.
If one died of old age, the other one isn't far behind, so I'd replace both.

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