Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

2009-10-02 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 2 Oct 2009 19:09:08 -0400 "LarryT"  wrote:

> Thx Max - You're right, the non-concentrated method would definitely be 
> easier!

But would possibly have poorer results due to the lower concentration.


> As far as the catastrophe that might occur, IMO I doubt it.  This stuff
> has  been around for a very long time and if IP's were being damaged
> when using  it I suspect we'd have heard by now - especially with the
> activity of this list.

Indeed.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

2009-10-02 Thread Wonko the Sane
The best part of a DieselPurge treatment is what your ears tell you. You can
actually hear the car change from chugga-chugga to the Singer sewing machine
sound. I always burn through two cans of Purge.

On Wed, Sep 30, 2009 at 4:01 PM, LarryT  wrote:

> I plan to run a can of Diesel Purge in my '91 300D for the 1st time.
>
> Question, the fuel return lines goes into the can as does fuel feed line.
> How will I know when the full can of DP has run through the engine?  Doesn't
> the fuel return line keep refilling the can with excess fuel?
>
> Also, about how long does it typically take - assuming I'll run the engine
> at around 1500rpm?
>
> Thanks!
>
> LarryT
> 74 911
>
> OilAnalysis Time?
> Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
> www.youroil.net
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Moose!

2009-10-02 Thread Curt Raymond
Apparently Canadian moose are not as tough as their American counterparts... 
Everybody has some horror story where the moose traveled after getting shot.

When I shot mine in '99 I nearly had to shoot another. I don't remember what 
the guy had for a rifle, 30-30 maybe. He'd shot it 4 times and it was wandering 
around the field like a drunken sailor. Clearly dying but not quickly. A river 
was just off to one side of the field and we were scared it was going to head 
into the field. I had a Winchester .348 and had just raised my rifle when it 
finally went down and stayed... 2 of his 4 shots had punctured the lungs... My 
moose went down on the first shot and I didn't puncture a lung.

Dad hit this moose in the ear, gross...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:42:33 -0700
From: "Greg Fiorentino" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Moose!
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <004801ca4227$aeff86e0$0cfe94...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

I have a cousin in BC Canada who is an avid moose hunter.  He has a camp up
in the Cariboo area of BC and favors a .270 Win. rifle.  Counter
intuitively, moose are not hard to kill and do not require a heavy caliber.
Elk are tougher, if not as big.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 1:37 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Moose!

I don't remember if I mentioned it on here but I've been moose
hunting this week. Today dad shot a small cow moose, 208 pounds which should
be very good eating. He used an 1880's vintage Martini Henry rifle
450-577 a 400 grain bullet moving at 1500 fps, the moose never knew what
happened...

Curt


  
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Moose!

2009-10-02 Thread Curt Raymond
Caribou, Maine. The moose hunt up there is limited to 3,000 permits so its a 
pretty big deal to get to go. This is our second trip, last time was when I got 
drawn in '99.

Weather was terrible for moose hunting, too warm and rainy. Today was nice, 
sunny and cool, we saw many moose on trailers while heading home.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:54:38 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Moose!
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Where did you go hunting?





  
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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

2009-10-02 Thread LarryT
The thing that surprised me about M Wards products was the variety of 
quality.  My Mechanics toolbox  with a big bottom and big top - by 60's 
standards not today's standards - that has survived 15+ moves and a huge 
amount of use.  All of the drawers still slide perfectly without any jamming 
or strange behavior.  It has performed perfectly.   OTOH, The Craftsman 3 
drawer toolbox I bought a year ago to fit between the upper and lower box is 
less well built.   One drawer in particular is a problem - if I don't close 
it carefully it will cock over to one side and jam.


I need to call Sears and see what they'll do for me...


Does your business need to accept V/MC/AMEX/Disc?
For the best Rates and 0% Interest Loans!
http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/A365706

--
From: "Rich Thomas" 
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 9:07 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw


Other than those attractive features, how would you rate the machine?

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:
I have a Monkey Ward PowrKraft lawn tractor. 10hp Briggs in it is the 
most powerful of its type (vertical shaft single cylinder) I've ever had. 
The rear discharge on it (intended to be used with a long gone grass 
catcher) is real nice on the farm where we're basically bushhogging all 
the time.
Best part is the whole thing was basically free. I had to clean the carb 
(just dump the bowl and free up the needle) and put the battery from my 
Cub Cadet on it and its run good for 3 seasons.


That said everything else about it is crap. As designed the mower deck 
hangs from a cable, it doesn't have a good tensioning method so you need 
to run too small a belt so the deck is on all the time... The 
transmission has gears if you hunt around long enough, the brakes are on 
or off, mostly, the tires (originals) aren't even vaugely the same size 
(good for mowing on a slope) and it requires 3 hands to start (there are 
2 safety levers, you hold one with your right hand, one with your left 
hand, step on the brake and turn the key with your right foot...)


-Curt

Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 10:00:49 -0700
From: Jim Cathey 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <4eb1bf1e-ab87-11de-923c-000502d9a...@windwireless.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed



Does anyone know who made the Monkey Ward Powercraft table saws?



PowrKraft?  My dad bought a lot of that.  MW had a nice
store in Portland that always treated him pretty well,
and he loved that he could go and buy parts for a 20+ year
old tool at their service counter.


name of the manufacturer.  I seem to recall the company was two 
surnames.




Smith & Wesson?  :-)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

2009-10-02 Thread LarryT
Yeah, let me correct that - I meant to say <fuel fillup">>


There, that's better. ;-)

LarryT
91 300D


Does your business need to accept V/MC/AMEX/Disc?
For the best Rates and 0% Interest Loans!
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--
From: "Rich Thomas" 
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 9:04 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge


"Of course, I *do* put a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil into each gas fillup"

U, I think I might see a problem...

--R


LarryT wrote:

Hi Gang -
Finally got around to running a can of DP thru my 91 300D.  It took a 
while to get started, the return hose had a clamp that was impossible to 
unscrew.  Ended up cutting the metal band with a Dremel.


With that out of the way, I hooked up the hoses and started the 
engine - it took about 15 min with me running thru a range of rpm's.


The surprising part was it made no difference at idle although the 
cruising speeds seemed quieter and smoother.  But that may be my 
imagination.  Of course, I *do* put a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil into 
each gas fillup which may have prevented any carbon buildup on the heads 
and injectors.
Perhaps that's why I didn't see a change?  I did notice one of the 
black cloth covered return fuel lines (that run between each injector) 
was frayed and would have failed soon - so the exercise was worth it.


Thanks Gang -
LarryT
91 300D

Does your business need to accept V/MC/AMEX/Disc?
For the best Rates and 0% Interest Loans!
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Re: [MBZ] Nice Pic from Len Sokoloff

2009-10-02 Thread Curt Raymond
Heck I'd paste Rusty's picture everywhere for a $50 door prize!

-Curt

Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 12:49:10 -0400
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nice Pic from Len Sokoloff
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <005101ca405b$9a1b1c30$ce5154...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="iso-8859-1"

And to the next ChowdahQ? We will rename the event for that kind of door
prize.

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1978 240D 4 speed. 218K + miles.? 
1990 300D 2.5t 170K miles.
Wickford, RI
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 10:49 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nice Pic from Len Sokoloff

what are you going to send for a door prize for the next okieq?

Rusty Cullens wrote:
> A $100,000 gift certificate.
>
> Rusty Cullens
> BuyMBparts, Inc.
> Tel 1-800-741-5252
> Fax   770-454-9745


  
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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

jack up car, put on jack stand, lower jack, then put jack under control arm.

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would like to 
replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.  Reading the 
bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower control arm. Does this 
mean that I need two jacks, one for control arm and one to Jack up the car?  
Anyone know the procedure for this job?


  


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.113/2400 - Release Date: 09/28/09 05:51:00


  


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95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

2009-10-02 Thread Rich Thomas

Other than those attractive features, how would you rate the machine?

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:

I have a Monkey Ward PowrKraft lawn tractor. 10hp Briggs in it is the most 
powerful of its type (vertical shaft single cylinder) I've ever had. The rear 
discharge on it (intended to be used with a long gone grass catcher) is real 
nice on the farm where we're basically bushhogging all the time.
Best part is the whole thing was basically free. I had to clean the carb (just 
dump the bowl and free up the needle) and put the battery from my Cub Cadet on 
it and its run good for 3 seasons.

That said everything else about it is crap. As designed the mower deck hangs 
from a cable, it doesn't have a good tensioning method so you need to run too 
small a belt so the deck is on all the time... The transmission has gears if 
you hunt around long enough, the brakes are on or off, mostly, the tires 
(originals) aren't even vaugely the same size (good for mowing on a slope) and 
it requires 3 hands to start (there are 2 safety levers, you hold one with your 
right hand, one with your left hand, step on the brake and turn the key with 
your right foot...)

-Curt

Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 10:00:49 -0700
From: Jim Cathey 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <4eb1bf1e-ab87-11de-923c-000502d9a...@windwireless.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

  

Does anyone know who made the Monkey Ward Powercraft table saws?



PowrKraft?  My dad bought a lot of that.  MW had a nice
store in Portland that always treated him pretty well,
and he loved that he could go and buy parts for a 20+ year
old tool at their service counter.

  
name of the manufacturer.  I seem to recall the company was two 
surnames.



Smith & Wesson?  :-)

-- Jim


  
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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Rich Thomas
PB Blaster and the hot wrench are your friends, or the ATF/acetone 
elixer previously discussed (though I have no experience with it).


--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
Thanks. It doesn't seem as complicated as I thought. Challenge might  
be to get rusty bolts loose!


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:38 PM, Rich Thomas  > wrote:


  
More to get room underneath to work on them. although if you can  
reach the bolts/nuts you don't need to jack it up.  Once you undo a  
mount they can be pushed in or out to get them out of the way.  They  
are not "structural" so you can unbolt them, push the strut in/out  
to fit or miss the mounting points.  If you let the wheel drop down  
it will give you a bit more room to work in there.  The new ones are  
shipped with a plastic strap to keep them from extending, it might  
be easiest to attach the top loosely then cut the strap and let it  
extend (it does it slowly) then guide it into the bottom mount.  You  
can compress them again if you need to but it takes a bit of ooomph  
and they want to keep extending while you are messing with them in  
there.  Some shocks have a plastic bumper thing on the rod at the  
top, see if your car has that and note how they are arranged to get  
the new one on right (if you need it).


--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

So I only need to Jack the car up for th purposes of extending the  
shocks to be able to remove and replace them?


Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:17 PM, Rich Thomas   

wrote:

You can extend the shock strut/rod to fit on the attachments, I  
don't think you need to worry too much about supporting the LCA  
unless you want it up higher with the car jacked up to where you  
can get under (or do it on ramps). --R


Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would  
like to replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.   
Reading the bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower  
control arm. Does this mean that I need two jacks, one for control  
arm and one to Jack up the car?  Anyone know the procedure for this  
job?



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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

2009-10-02 Thread Rich Thomas

"Of course, I *do* put a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil into each gas fillup"

U, I think I might see a problem...

--R


LarryT wrote:

Hi Gang -
Finally got around to running a can of DP thru my 91 300D.  It took a while 
to get started, the return hose had a clamp that was impossible to unscrew.  
Ended up cutting the metal band with a Dremel.

With that out of the way, I hooked up the hoses and started the engine - it 
took about 15 min with me running thru a range of rpm's.

The surprising part was it made no difference at idle although the cruising speeds seemed quieter and smoother.  But that may be my imagination.  Of course, I *do* put a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil into each gas fillup which may have prevented any carbon buildup on the heads and injectors.  


Perhaps that's why I didn't see a change?  I did notice one of the black 
cloth covered return fuel lines (that run between each injector) was frayed and 
would have failed soon - so the exercise was worth it.

Thanks Gang -
LarryT
91 300D

Does your business need to accept V/MC/AMEX/Disc?
For the best Rates and 0% Interest Loans!
http://www.merchantreferralsolutions.com/a376706
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Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw

2009-10-02 Thread Curt Raymond
I have a Monkey Ward PowrKraft lawn tractor. 10hp Briggs in it is the most 
powerful of its type (vertical shaft single cylinder) I've ever had. The rear 
discharge on it (intended to be used with a long gone grass catcher) is real 
nice on the farm where we're basically bushhogging all the time.
Best part is the whole thing was basically free. I had to clean the carb (just 
dump the bowl and free up the needle) and put the battery from my Cub Cadet on 
it and its run good for 3 seasons.

That said everything else about it is crap. As designed the mower deck hangs 
from a cable, it doesn't have a good tensioning method so you need to run too 
small a belt so the deck is on all the time... The transmission has gears if 
you hunt around long enough, the brakes are on or off, mostly, the tires 
(originals) aren't even vaugely the same size (good for mowing on a slope) and 
it requires 3 hands to start (there are 2 safety levers, you hold one with your 
right hand, one with your left hand, step on the brake and turn the key with 
your right foot...)

-Curt

Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 10:00:49 -0700
From: Jim Cathey 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: powercraft table saw
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <4eb1bf1e-ab87-11de-923c-000502d9a...@windwireless.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

> Does anyone know who made the Monkey Ward Powercraft table saws?

PowrKraft?  My dad bought a lot of that.  MW had a nice
store in Portland that always treated him pretty well,
and he loved that he could go and buy parts for a 20+ year
old tool at their service counter.

> name of the manufacturer.  I seem to recall the company was two 
> surnames.

Smith & Wesson?  :-)

-- Jim


  
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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Loren Faeth
They are not too bad.  I like to put the front up on 
jackstands.  That leaves the jack free to raise or lower the LCA as 
needed.  It can be done without the jack as others have indicated.


For the rears, jack it up and put it on jackstands for 
safety.  things line up pretty easy for the rear.  TO get to the top 
of the rears, you have to remove the rear seat back.


Do buy Bilsteins.  The ride and handling is noticeably better.


At 06:13 PM 10/2/2009, you wrote:

Thanks. It doesn't seem as complicated as I thought. Challenge might
be to get rusty bolts loose!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:38 PM, Rich Thomas  wrote:

> More to get room underneath to work on them. although if you can
> reach the bolts/nuts you don't need to jack it up.  Once you undo a
> mount they can be pushed in or out to get them out of the way.  They
> are not "structural" so you can unbolt them, push the strut in/out
> to fit or miss the mounting points.  If you let the wheel drop down
> it will give you a bit more room to work in there.  The new ones are
> shipped with a plastic strap to keep them from extending, it might
> be easiest to attach the top loosely then cut the strap and let it
> extend (it does it slowly) then guide it into the bottom mount.  You
> can compress them again if you need to but it takes a bit of ooomph
> and they want to keep extending while you are messing with them in
> there.  Some shocks have a plastic bumper thing on the rod at the
> top, see if your car has that and note how they are arranged to get
> the new one on right (if you need it).
>
> --R
>
> Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
>> So I only need to Jack the car up for th purposes of extending the
>> shocks to be able to remove and replace them?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:17 PM, Rich Thomas 

>> > wrote:
>>
>> You can extend the shock strut/rod to fit on the attachments, I
>> don't think you need to worry too much about supporting the LCA
>> unless you want it up higher with the car jacked up to where you
>> can get under (or do it on ramps). --R
>>
>> Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
>> I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would
>> like to replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.
>> Reading the bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower
>> control arm. Does this mean that I need two jacks, one for control
>> arm and one to Jack up the car?  Anyone know the procedure for this
>> job?
>>
>>
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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Sudden increase in smoke from my 617. Cold/rainy weatherrelated?

2009-10-02 Thread Walt Zarnoch
On Fri, Oct 2, 2009 at 4:36 PM, R A Bennell  wrote:
> Did I miss something? I don't recall mention of a "project truck". What are 
> you putting together?
>
> Randy
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Walt Zarnoch
> Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 1:37 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] Sudden increase in smoke from my 617. Cold/rainy
> weatherrelated?
>
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I've got a 617 from a 78 300D in my project truck that decided to
> start billowing greyish smoke for no reason.
>
> 2 weeks ago it was fine, with very little visible smoke.
>
> We're having rather wet weather, and barometric pressure is a tad high today.
>
> Smoke is rather acrid/eye stinging,and seems to go away when I hit the 
> throttle.
>
> Only thing's I've done mechanically between then and now is a removal
> and temporary block-off of the oil cooler lines pending a replacement
> of the cooler(damaged threads...). Replaced lost oil with fresh,
> replaced the orings on the filter stalk, and I have good oil pressure.
> Starts after 15-20 seconds of glow, idles strong.
>
> Fuel is #2 with clear K1, about 40/60 mix, confused the can's when I
> filled it up. Was running fine on it before, but could that be
> something to do with it?
>
> Running header only, no exhaust/muffler.
>
> I can't do a highway/road test since the truck isn't currently
> registered/insured, but it goes around the yard just fine and dandy
> with no apparent loss of power.
>
> It's got me a bit worried, and I'd rather ask and sound like a fool
> than ruin a good engine.
>
> Any pointers/tips are appreciated.
>
> Walt
>
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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Thanks. It doesn't seem as complicated as I thought. Challenge might  
be to get rusty bolts loose!

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:38 PM, Rich Thomas  wrote:

> More to get room underneath to work on them. although if you can  
> reach the bolts/nuts you don't need to jack it up.  Once you undo a  
> mount they can be pushed in or out to get them out of the way.  They  
> are not "structural" so you can unbolt them, push the strut in/out  
> to fit or miss the mounting points.  If you let the wheel drop down  
> it will give you a bit more room to work in there.  The new ones are  
> shipped with a plastic strap to keep them from extending, it might  
> be easiest to attach the top loosely then cut the strap and let it  
> extend (it does it slowly) then guide it into the bottom mount.  You  
> can compress them again if you need to but it takes a bit of ooomph  
> and they want to keep extending while you are messing with them in  
> there.  Some shocks have a plastic bumper thing on the rod at the  
> top, see if your car has that and note how they are arranged to get  
> the new one on right (if you need it).
>
> --R
>
> Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
>> So I only need to Jack the car up for th purposes of extending the  
>> shocks to be able to remove and replace them?
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:17 PM, Rich Thomas 
>> > > wrote:
>>
>> You can extend the shock strut/rod to fit on the attachments, I  
>> don't think you need to worry too much about supporting the LCA  
>> unless you want it up higher with the car jacked up to where you  
>> can get under (or do it on ramps). --R
>>
>> Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
>> I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would  
>> like to replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.   
>> Reading the bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower  
>> control arm. Does this mean that I need two jacks, one for control  
>> arm and one to Jack up the car?  Anyone know the procedure for this  
>> job?
>>
>>
>> ___
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>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

2009-10-02 Thread LarryT

re the sentence cut-off - Hmm, how'd I do that?

Thx Max - You're right, the non-concentrated method would definitely be 
easier!


As far as the catastrophe that might occur, IMO I doubt it.  This stuff has 
been around for a very long time and if IP's were being damaged when using 
it I suspect we'd have heard by now - especially with the activity of this 
list.


Take care -
LarryT


Does your business need to accept V/MC/AMEX/Disc?
For the best Rates and 0% Interest Loans!
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--
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310" 


Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 7:06 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge


Larry,

I would imagine that if you simply added the DP to the fuel tank you
could avoid the scary scenario but still get all the benefits and it
would be much simpler to do as well.

What I'd like to know is if there is any credence to this scary
scenario.

Your email below appears to be cut-off mid-sentence ala LT Don with his
fat fingers/small keyboard.

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 6:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

Hi Max,
Well, that's a scary scenario!   Let's hope it isn't true!  I was
planning
to run some DP thru tonight.  In the past I had to use some stuff called
Ferox to clean things.  My '91 had only 99k mi on it (avg 7000/yr) and
later speaking to the PO's assistant I learned he drove it daily round
trip of about 4 miles.  So it never got warm and that low temp driving
created carbon in the combustion system.  I got rid of it with the Ferox
and my wife helped by putting 100  mi +/- daily which was probably the
best method.
She's now only driving 32 mi. RT daily  and I always put a dose (~4 oz)
Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel with each fill up, but the raves I hear
about Diesel Purge are so phenomenal I wanted to give it a try.  Lately,
our W124 300D has been idling roughly so I thought that'd be a good
starting point - I've checked most lt the i

BTW,

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310"

Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 7:30 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge


Larry,

Plan to spend about 15 or 20 minutes per can.

I found a thread once on mercedesshop forum where a gentleman (who
claimed to rebuild IP's for a living or some such) wrote that Diesel
Purge caused damage because it loosened and flowed all the crap inside



the pump, so the pump elements and the injectors could be damaged when



all this crap with abrasive qualities came through at once.  Depending



on what's in your pump, and if it has been feed a diet of low quality
fuel and never been cleaned by diesel purge, this guy said that there
could be deposits inside minding their own business and not bothering
anything, so why mess with them?  If your injectors need cleaning,
take them out and clean them by hand instead.

I supposed that using bio-diesel or VO, which has much stronger
cleaning properties than #2 ULSD, may have the same affect?

Anyone else ever heard of such a thing?  Anyone have a friend in the
IP rebuild business they could ask and verify?  I am skeptical; it
seems to me that the IP was probably super clean at installation in
the engine, and from then on all the fuel was filtered, so where could



any abrasive particles come from to be deposited inside the pump?

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 5:02 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

I plan to run a can of Diesel Purge in my '91 300D for the 1st time.

Question, the fuel return lines goes into the can as does fuel feed
line.   How will I know when the full can of DP has run through the
engine?  Doesn't the fuel return line keep refilling the can with
excess fuel?

Also, about how long does it typically take - assuming I'll run the
engine at around 1500rpm?

Thanks!

LarryT
74 911

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net

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[MBZ] Diesel Purge

2009-10-02 Thread LarryT
Hi Gang -
Finally got around to running a can of DP thru my 91 300D.  It took a while 
to get started, the return hose had a clamp that was impossible to unscrew.  
Ended up cutting the metal band with a Dremel.

With that out of the way, I hooked up the hoses and started the engine - it 
took about 15 min with me running thru a range of rpm's.

The surprising part was it made no difference at idle although the cruising 
speeds seemed quieter and smoother.  But that may be my imagination.  Of 
course, I *do* put a shot of Marvel Mystery Oil into each gas fillup which may 
have prevented any carbon buildup on the heads and injectors.  

Perhaps that's why I didn't see a change?  I did notice one of the black 
cloth covered return fuel lines (that run between each injector) was frayed and 
would have failed soon - so the exercise was worth it.

Thanks Gang -
LarryT
91 300D

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[MBZ] Pure breed and mix-breed dogs......

2009-10-02 Thread Angelo Giaimo
On Fri, 02 Oct 2009 08:36:16 -0400, Mitch Haley wrote:

The reason you don't breed your cousin is an increased chance of reinforcing
genetic defects when the kid picks up the defective gene from both parents.

One reason for cross breeding dogs is to decrease the chance of a genetic
defect
hitting the pup from both parents. Most breeds have genetic problems, take
hip
displasia for example. Mixed breeds are just plain healthier genetically.
===
Mitch,  I think we're saying almost the same thing..

Breeding with your (1'st) cousin is also socially unacceptableeven if
she is cute and you use birth control. .

Yes, breeders have to be very selective (weather they mate 2 of the same or
2 different breeds of dogs) as to make sure they don't pass along any
genetic problems.  That's obvious.  Allot of breeders do not.  Obviously, if
you increase your gene pool to include all dogs, not just your own breed,
increases the chance for not passing on defective genes.  I agree with you
100%. (ask me how I know)

Our first poodle, Rosie, (Rescued from a breeder) probably bred to be small,
had a multitude of problems, most of which were hereditary. Two Luxacated
Patellas, seizures, PRA, which caused premature blindness were all defects
that could have been avoided had our first dog's breeder been more
responsible.The pedigree we were given by the breeder was a complete
fabrication.  Still, she lived to the ripe old age of 17.  We're lucky to
have the means to take care of her and learned allot along the way.

Lucy, on paper, and with allot of other references and recommendations is
about as good as we could find after our 1'st learning experience.

As for the latest designer dogsLaberdoodles, Cocker-poos, etc,  who's to
say that the offspring does not end up with the bad traits of each breed?
And they're still mutts. (Not that it's a bad thing, though.)

Angelo
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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Peter Frederick
I would support the lower control arm -- the shock prevents over- 
extension of the spring, which can come out and kill you if the  
control arm drops too far.


It is not necessary to jack the car to change the shocks, although  
it's a bit tight if you don't -- much easier to jack, support he  
control arm (that is, put it down on a jack stand so that you can  
still reach the bolts for the shock) and remove the wheel.


Unless they are very dead, it will take some compression of the rod  
to get them out.


When installing, do NOT tighten the upper nut until it stops turning,  
instead run it down until there is only a length of thread showing  
equal to the thickness of the nut showing for a locker nut.  If you  
have two nuts that are supposed to be locked together, tighten until  
there is a single thread showing above the upper nut and tighten the  
bottom nut up to the top one.


If you tighten them all the way down, you take all the shock  
absorbing movement out of the rubber and they will ride VERY hard and  
noisy.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Rich Thomas
More to get room underneath to work on them. although if you can reach 
the bolts/nuts you don't need to jack it up.  Once you undo a mount they 
can be pushed in or out to get them out of the way.  They are not 
"structural" so you can unbolt them, push the strut in/out to fit or 
miss the mounting points.  If you let the wheel drop down it will give 
you a bit more room to work in there.  The new ones are shipped with a 
plastic strap to keep them from extending, it might be easiest to attach 
the top loosely then cut the strap and let it extend (it does it slowly) 
then guide it into the bottom mount.  You can compress them again if you 
need to but it takes a bit of ooomph and they want to keep extending 
while you are messing with them in there.  Some shocks have a plastic 
bumper thing on the rod at the top, see if your car has that and note 
how they are arranged to get the new one on right (if you need it).


--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

So I only need to Jack the car up for th purposes of extending the shocks to be 
able to remove and replace them?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:17 PM, Rich Thomas  
wrote:

You can extend the shock strut/rod to fit on the attachments, I don't think you need to worry too much about supporting the LCA unless you want it up higher with the car jacked up to where you can get under (or do it on ramps). 
--R


Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would like to 
replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.  Reading the 
bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower control arm. Does this 
mean that I need two jacks, one for control arm and one to Jack up the car?  
Anyone know the procedure for this job?


 
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[MBZ] Don't Drink and Climb

2009-10-02 Thread LWB250
This ranks right up there
http://yosemiteblog.com/2009/10/01/dont-drink-and-climb-video/
Dan


  
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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
So I only need to Jack the car up for th purposes of extending the shocks to be 
able to remove and replace them?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:17 PM, Rich Thomas  
wrote:

You can extend the shock strut/rod to fit on the attachments, I don't think you 
need to worry too much about supporting the LCA unless you want it up higher 
with the car jacked up to where you can get under (or do it on ramps). 
--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would like to 
replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.  Reading the 
bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower control arm. Does this 
mean that I need two jacks, one for control arm and one to Jack up the car?  
Anyone know the procedure for this job?


 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Rich Thomas
You can extend the shock strut/rod to fit on the attachments, I don't 
think you need to worry too much about supporting the LCA unless you 
want it up higher with the car jacked up to where you can get under (or 
do it on ramps). 


--R

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would like to 
replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.  Reading the 
bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower control arm. Does this 
mean that I need two jacks, one for control arm and one to Jack up the car?  
Anyone know the procedure for this job?


  


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[MBZ] 240D shocks

2009-10-02 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
I'm still troubleshooting my glow plugs and in the meantime would like to 
replace the shocks on my car. I've never done this before.  Reading the 
bilstein instructions they talk about supporting lower control arm. Does this 
mean that I need two jacks, one for control arm and one to Jack up the car?  
Anyone know the procedure for this job?


  

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Re: [MBZ] Sudden increase in smoke from my 617. Cold/rainy weatherrelated?

2009-10-02 Thread R A Bennell
Did I miss something? I don't recall mention of a "project truck". What are you 
putting together?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Walt Zarnoch
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 1:37 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Sudden increase in smoke from my 617. Cold/rainy
weatherrelated?


Hey everyone,

I've got a 617 from a 78 300D in my project truck that decided to
start billowing greyish smoke for no reason.

2 weeks ago it was fine, with very little visible smoke.

We're having rather wet weather, and barometric pressure is a tad high today.

Smoke is rather acrid/eye stinging,and seems to go away when I hit the throttle.

Only thing's I've done mechanically between then and now is a removal
and temporary block-off of the oil cooler lines pending a replacement
of the cooler(damaged threads...). Replaced lost oil with fresh,
replaced the orings on the filter stalk, and I have good oil pressure.
Starts after 15-20 seconds of glow, idles strong.

Fuel is #2 with clear K1, about 40/60 mix, confused the can's when I
filled it up. Was running fine on it before, but could that be
something to do with it?

Running header only, no exhaust/muffler.

I can't do a highway/road test since the truck isn't currently
registered/insured, but it goes around the yard just fine and dandy
with no apparent loss of power.

It's got me a bit worried, and I'd rather ask and sound like a fool
than ruin a good engine.

Any pointers/tips are appreciated.

Walt

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Re: [MBZ] Sudden increase in smoke from my 617. Cold/rainy weather related?

2009-10-02 Thread Mitch Haley

No EGR on a 1978 AFAIK. EGR can cause all sorts of fun, especially at idle.

Leaky injector?

Mitch.

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[MBZ] Sudden increase in smoke from my 617. Cold/rainy weather related?

2009-10-02 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Hey everyone,

I've got a 617 from a 78 300D in my project truck that decided to
start billowing greyish smoke for no reason.

2 weeks ago it was fine, with very little visible smoke.

We're having rather wet weather, and barometric pressure is a tad high today.

Smoke is rather acrid/eye stinging,and seems to go away when I hit the throttle.

Only thing's I've done mechanically between then and now is a removal
and temporary block-off of the oil cooler lines pending a replacement
of the cooler(damaged threads...). Replaced lost oil with fresh,
replaced the orings on the filter stalk, and I have good oil pressure.
Starts after 15-20 seconds of glow, idles strong.

Fuel is #2 with clear K1, about 40/60 mix, confused the can's when I
filled it up. Was running fine on it before, but could that be
something to do with it?

Running header only, no exhaust/muffler.

I can't do a highway/road test since the truck isn't currently
registered/insured, but it goes around the yard just fine and dandy
with no apparent loss of power.

It's got me a bit worried, and I'd rather ask and sound like a fool
than ruin a good engine.

Any pointers/tips are appreciated.

Walt

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Re: [MBZ] cheap

2009-10-02 Thread RELNGSON
> ...Unless it's a nickel cheaper.  For a dime cheaper, half these guys 
> would buy a lampshade from hitler...
> 
Are you talking about the inmates of banned? Awful lot of nickel squeezing 
going on here. Price always seems to rule over quality.

RLE
> 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Richard Hattaway
And you *did* check for the voltage at the plugs during the glow cycle??

If so, and if the fuseable link ( 60 A fuse ) passes either the load test or 
the take it out and fondle it test (both work fine) then I am back to putting 
money on the glow relay.

Wish I had one to send out, but that's not the case any more.  

Richard

--- On Fri, 10/2/09, Dimitri Seretakis  wrote:

> From: Dimitri Seretakis 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 5:42 PM
> Also I forgot to mention that the
> glow light on the dash no longer comes on.  Not that I
> really payed much attention to it since it only worked
> intermittently before anyway.  The car actually does
> start but I have to crank it a lot longer. If this were my
> 220d there is no way it would start.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 2, 2009, at 1:05 PM, Richard Hattaway 
> wrote:
> 
> I was mulling that over as well.  I've seen tons of
> open and high resistance plugs and none shorted, but it's
> not beyond reason.  I would expect that the fuse would
> be really trashed, as opposed to an invisible fracture
> though.  Since he's reading 12 V no load on both sides
> of the fuse, it isn't trashed.  It's either a high
> resistance failure or good.
> 
> So am not sure bout the resistance readings there. 
> Would have to measure again, mess with the meter, check the
> lead resistance of the meter, wash my hands, have a beer,
> see if there's any pizza to go with the beer, then check it
> again.  Or just replace the questioned plug.  I'm
> normally too cheap to do the latter till I have proven it
> bad (c:  ... 
> 
> So till we get more data, my money's on the glow
> relay.  12 volts at the top, and 0 volts at the bottom
> tells me it's not good.  
> 
> IMPORTANT Dislcaimer: That is making the assumption that
> the voltage at the plugs was measured during the glow cycle,
> not just at any random ole time.  
> 
> Richard
> 
> 
> --- On Fri, 10/2/09, Mitch Haley 
> wrote:
> 
> From: Mitch Haley 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 4:29 PM
> 
> I wonder if one of the plugs has a dead short?
> 
> If the strip fuse has no load running through it, it could
> show no voltage drop but still be bad under load.
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
>       
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Also I forgot to mention that the glow light on the dash no longer comes on.  
Not that I really payed much attention to it since it only worked 
intermittently before anyway.  The car actually does start but I have to crank 
it a lot longer. If this were my 220d there is no way it would start.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 1:05 PM, Richard Hattaway  wrote:

I was mulling that over as well.  I've seen tons of open and high resistance 
plugs and none shorted, but it's not beyond reason.  I would expect that the 
fuse would be really trashed, as opposed to an invisible fracture though.  
Since he's reading 12 V no load on both sides of the fuse, it isn't trashed.  
It's either a high resistance failure or good.

So am not sure bout the resistance readings there.  Would have to measure 
again, mess with the meter, check the lead resistance of the meter, wash my 
hands, have a beer, see if there's any pizza to go with the beer, then check it 
again.  Or just replace the questioned plug.  I'm normally too cheap to do the 
latter till I have proven it bad (c:  ... 

So till we get more data, my money's on the glow relay.  12 volts at the top, 
and 0 volts at the bottom tells me it's not good.  

IMPORTANT Dislcaimer: That is making the assumption that the voltage at the 
plugs was measured during the glow cycle, not just at any random ole time.  

Richard


--- On Fri, 10/2/09, Mitch Haley  wrote:

From: Mitch Haley 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 4:29 PM

I wonder if one of the plugs has a dead short?

If the strip fuse has no load running through it, it could
show no voltage drop but still be bad under load.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Richard Hattaway
I was mulling that over as well.  I've seen tons of open and high resistance 
plugs and none shorted, but it's not beyond reason.  I would expect that the 
fuse would be really trashed, as opposed to an invisible fracture though.  
Since he's reading 12 V no load on both sides of the fuse, it isn't trashed.  
It's either a high resistance failure or good.

So am not sure bout the resistance readings there.  Would have to measure 
again, mess with the meter, check the lead resistance of the meter, wash my 
hands, have a beer, see if there's any pizza to go with the beer, then check it 
again.  Or just replace the questioned plug.  I'm normally too cheap to do the 
latter till I have proven it bad (c:  ... 

So till we get more data, my money's on the glow relay.  12 volts at the top, 
and 0 volts at the bottom tells me it's not good.  

IMPORTANT Dislcaimer: That is making the assumption that the voltage at the 
plugs was measured during the glow cycle, not just at any random ole time.  

Richard


--- On Fri, 10/2/09, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> From: Mitch Haley 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 4:29 PM
> 
> I wonder if one of the plugs has a dead short?
> 
> If the strip fuse has no load running through it, it could
> show no voltage drop but still be bad under load.
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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> 


  

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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Richard Hattaway
The fuse is good, as long as there is not a high resistance connection there.  
Try reading the voltage under load.  IE, have a helper turn on the ignition 
while you are looking at the meter.  That should start the glow cycle, and the 
voltage at both sides of the fuse should still be the same to ground, albeit a 
bit lower than it was w/o the glow cycle running.  This assures the fuseable 
link is good.  If it has an oxidation failure, or is minutely cracked, as 
mentioned earlier, putting it under load will cause the voltage to ground 
reading to go to almost 0 volts on the load side of the fuse.

I seem to remember about 10-11 volts at the plugs when the cycle was running, 
with all the drops etc thru the glow relay.

Richard

--- On Fri, 10/2/09, Dimitri Seretakis  wrote:

> From: Dimitri Seretakis 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 4:15 PM
> Can that 60 amp fuse be tested? 
> I put a voltmeter across the fuse and got nothing but when I
> put voltmeter on either side of the fuse to ground then I
> got 12V.  As far as glow plugs I did as Loren suggested
> and got 3 ohms at G1, G2,G4 and 0.5 milliohms at G3. Could
> all of my glow plugs be bad?  I find that unlikely.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:38 AM, Richard Hattaway 
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, it is.  And it should be nice and clean on both
> ends, as well as not fractured in the middle.
> 
> Loren, what I read his note to say is that he is reading
> voltage.  Looking to see if the plugs are getting
> voltage to them from the relay.  Then he read for
> voltage again at the relay.  In both cases he read 0
> volts.
> 
> This is a great way to look for issues on the system, and
> if there is no voltage at the plug, it will not work,
> obviously.  Since he had no voltage at the relay he
> eliminated the wiring harness as an issue.  
> 
> Now he has to sort out why no voltage at the relay output,
> and the metalic fuseable link is the next most viable
> culprit.  Of course there has to be battery voltage at
> the input to the relay, etc etc.
> 
> Reading the harness at the relay plug end with the ohmeter
> is a method of finding bad plugs (or bad
> harness/contacts).  
> 
> I wrote a 'multimeter 101' blurb years ago, and it's been
> posted all over the net .. 
> http://w123gassers.smfforfree2.com/index.php?topic=172.0
> is one posting.  Maybe it will be of some help.
> 
> You're on the right track.
> 
> Richard
> 
> --- On Fri, 10/2/09, Dimitri Seretakis 
> wrote:
> 
> From: Dimitri Seretakis 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 3:20 PM
> Is the 60 amp fuse the one that looks
> like a metal strip screwed in at both ends?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:07 AM, Loren Faeth 
> wrote:
> 
> You almost had it.
> 
> Take the plug off the relay ,and test the G1-G4 points in
> the plug to ground.  SHould be 1.4-1.7 ohms. 
> High
> resistance, indicates open circuit, and bad plug. 
> Lower resistance indicates a ground short, and a bad plug.
> 
> If they all went out at once, and the resistance is in the
> proper range, then you should look at the 60 amp fuse in
> the
> relay.  It can LOOK ok and be bad, so if you can't
> find
> another source of the problem, change the fuse and try
> that.  Your problem could also be a failed relay or a
> failed ign switch (rare)
> 
> At 10:00 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:
> I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are
> working.  I'm not familiar with this in parallel
> system, just the  old 220D in series system. 
> Anyway, I turned the key to glow position and hooked a
> voltmeter from the glow plugs (where wire attaches to
> plug)
> to ground on all plugs and got nothing. Then I hooked
> voltmeter from G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay box to
> ground
> respectively and got nothing. What else should I do and
> has
> my approach been correct so far?
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Loren Faeth 
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> 
> 
>       
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Mitch Haley


I wonder if one of the plugs has a dead short?

If the strip fuse has no load running through it, it could show no voltage drop 
but still be bad under load.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Best test of the fuse is to remove it and hold it in your hand, inspect
for cracks/crumbliness.

Looks like you've got one bad glow plug, #3.

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 12:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

Can that 60 amp fuse be tested?  I put a voltmeter across the fuse and
got nothing but when I put voltmeter on either side of the fuse to
ground then I got 12V.  As far as glow plugs I did as Loren suggested
and got 3 ohms at G1, G2,G4 and 0.5 milliohms at G3. Could all of my
glow plugs be bad?  I find that unlikely.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:38 AM, Richard Hattaway 
wrote:

Yes, it is.  And it should be nice and clean on both ends, as well as
not fractured in the middle.

Loren, what I read his note to say is that he is reading voltage.
Looking to see if the plugs are getting voltage to them from the relay.
Then he read for voltage again at the relay.  In both cases he read 0
volts.

This is a great way to look for issues on the system, and if there is no
voltage at the plug, it will not work, obviously.  Since he had no
voltage at the relay he eliminated the wiring harness as an issue.  

Now he has to sort out why no voltage at the relay output, and the
metalic fuseable link is the next most viable culprit.  Of course there
has to be battery voltage at the input to the relay, etc etc.

Reading the harness at the relay plug end with the ohmeter is a method
of finding bad plugs (or bad harness/contacts).  

I wrote a 'multimeter 101' blurb years ago, and it's been posted all
over the net .. http://w123gassers.smfforfree2.com/index.php?topic=172.0
is one posting.  Maybe it will be of some help.

You're on the right track.

Richard

--- On Fri, 10/2/09, Dimitri Seretakis  wrote:

From: Dimitri Seretakis 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 3:20 PM
Is the 60 amp fuse the one that looks
like a metal strip screwed in at both ends?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:07 AM, Loren Faeth 
wrote:

You almost had it.

Take the plug off the relay ,and test the G1-G4 points in the plug to
ground.  SHould be 1.4-1.7 ohms.  High resistance, indicates open
circuit, and bad plug. 
Lower resistance indicates a ground short, and a bad plug.

If they all went out at once, and the resistance is in the proper range,
then you should look at the 60 amp fuse in the relay.  It can LOOK ok
and be bad, so if you can't find another source of the problem, change
the fuse and try that.  Your problem could also be a failed relay or a
failed ign switch (rare)

At 10:00 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:
I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are working.  I'm not
familiar with this in parallel system, just the  old 220D in series
system. 
Anyway, I turned the key to glow position and hooked a voltmeter from
the glow plugs (where wire attaches to plug) to ground on all plugs and
got nothing. Then I hooked voltmeter from G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay
box to ground respectively and got nothing. What else should I do and
has my approach been correct so far?




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Loren Faeth 

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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Can that 60 amp fuse be tested?  I put a voltmeter across the fuse and got 
nothing but when I put voltmeter on either side of the fuse to ground then I 
got 12V.  As far as glow plugs I did as Loren suggested and got 3 ohms at G1, 
G2,G4 and 0.5 milliohms at G3. Could all of my glow plugs be bad?  I find that 
unlikely.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:38 AM, Richard Hattaway  wrote:

Yes, it is.  And it should be nice and clean on both ends, as well as not 
fractured in the middle.

Loren, what I read his note to say is that he is reading voltage.  Looking to 
see if the plugs are getting voltage to them from the relay.  Then he read for 
voltage again at the relay.  In both cases he read 0 volts.

This is a great way to look for issues on the system, and if there is no 
voltage at the plug, it will not work, obviously.  Since he had no voltage at 
the relay he eliminated the wiring harness as an issue.  

Now he has to sort out why no voltage at the relay output, and the metalic 
fuseable link is the next most viable culprit.  Of course there has to be 
battery voltage at the input to the relay, etc etc.

Reading the harness at the relay plug end with the ohmeter is a method of 
finding bad plugs (or bad harness/contacts).  

I wrote a 'multimeter 101' blurb years ago, and it's been posted all over the 
net .. http://w123gassers.smfforfree2.com/index.php?topic=172.0 is one posting. 
 Maybe it will be of some help.

You're on the right track.

Richard

--- On Fri, 10/2/09, Dimitri Seretakis  wrote:

From: Dimitri Seretakis 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 3:20 PM
Is the 60 amp fuse the one that looks
like a metal strip screwed in at both ends?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:07 AM, Loren Faeth 
wrote:

You almost had it.

Take the plug off the relay ,and test the G1-G4 points in
the plug to ground.  SHould be 1.4-1.7 ohms.  High
resistance, indicates open circuit, and bad plug. 
Lower resistance indicates a ground short, and a bad plug.

If they all went out at once, and the resistance is in the
proper range, then you should look at the 60 amp fuse in the
relay.  It can LOOK ok and be bad, so if you can't find
another source of the problem, change the fuse and try
that.  Your problem could also be a failed relay or a
failed ign switch (rare)

At 10:00 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:
I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are
working.  I'm not familiar with this in parallel
system, just the  old 220D in series system. 
Anyway, I turned the key to glow position and hooked a
voltmeter from the glow plugs (where wire attaches to plug)
to ground on all plugs and got nothing. Then I hooked
voltmeter from G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay box to ground
respectively and got nothing. What else should I do and has
my approach been correct so far?




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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Bad fuse, probably.

Here's a link to MB instructions for troubleshooting, shared by the late
Dr. Marshall Booth.  See post # 4 here:

http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?t=24112

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 11:01 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are working.  I'm not
familiar with this in parallel system, just the  old 220D in series
system.  Anyway, I turned the key to glow position and hooked a
voltmeter from the glow plugs (where wire attaches to plug) to ground on
all plugs and got nothing. Then I hooked voltmeter from G1,G2,G3,G4
terminals in relay box to ground respectively and got nothing. What else
should I do and has my approach been correct so far?


  

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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Richard Hattaway
Yes, it is.  And it should be nice and clean on both ends, as well as not 
fractured in the middle.

Loren, what I read his note to say is that he is reading voltage.  Looking to 
see if the plugs are getting voltage to them from the relay.  Then he read for 
voltage again at the relay.  In both cases he read 0 volts.

This is a great way to look for issues on the system, and if there is no 
voltage at the plug, it will not work, obviously.  Since he had no voltage at 
the relay he eliminated the wiring harness as an issue.  

Now he has to sort out why no voltage at the relay output, and the metalic 
fuseable link is the next most viable culprit.  Of course there has to be 
battery voltage at the input to the relay, etc etc.

Reading the harness at the relay plug end with the ohmeter is a method of 
finding bad plugs (or bad harness/contacts).  

I wrote a 'multimeter 101' blurb years ago, and it's been posted all over the 
net .. http://w123gassers.smfforfree2.com/index.php?topic=172.0 is one posting. 
 Maybe it will be of some help.

You're on the right track.

Richard

--- On Fri, 10/2/09, Dimitri Seretakis  wrote:

> From: Dimitri Seretakis 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 3:20 PM
> Is the 60 amp fuse the one that looks
> like a metal strip screwed in at both ends?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:07 AM, Loren Faeth 
> wrote:
> 
> You almost had it.
> 
> Take the plug off the relay ,and test the G1-G4 points in
> the plug to ground.  SHould be 1.4-1.7 ohms.  High
> resistance, indicates open circuit, and bad plug. 
> Lower resistance indicates a ground short, and a bad plug.
> 
> If they all went out at once, and the resistance is in the
> proper range, then you should look at the 60 amp fuse in the
> relay.  It can LOOK ok and be bad, so if you can't find
> another source of the problem, change the fuse and try
> that.  Your problem could also be a failed relay or a
> failed ign switch (rare)
> 
> At 10:00 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:
> I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are
> working.  I'm not familiar with this in parallel
> system, just the  old 220D in series system. 
> Anyway, I turned the key to glow position and hooked a
> voltmeter from the glow plugs (where wire attaches to plug)
> to ground on all plugs and got nothing. Then I hooked
> voltmeter from G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay box to ground
> respectively and got nothing. What else should I do and has
> my approach been correct so far?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> Loren Faeth 
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
> 
>       
> 
> ___
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> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


  

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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread OK Don
Yes - and it can look good in place, and be bad.

On Fri, Oct 2, 2009 at 10:20 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

> Is the 60 amp fuse the one that looks like a metal strip screwed in at both
> ends?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:07 AM, Loren Faeth  wrote:
>
> You almost had it.
>
> Take the plug off the relay ,and test the G1-G4 points in the plug to
> ground.  SHould be 1.4-1.7 ohms.  High resistance, indicates open circuit,
> and bad plug.  Lower resistance indicates a ground short, and a bad plug.
>
> If they all went out at once, and the resistance is in the proper range,
> then you should look at the 60 amp fuse in the relay.  It can LOOK ok and be
> bad, so if you can't find another source of the problem, change the fuse and
> try that.  Your problem could also be a failed relay or a failed ign switch
> (rare)
>
> At 10:00 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:
> I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are working.  I'm not familiar
> with this in parallel system, just the  old 220D in series system.  Anyway,
> I turned the key to glow position and hooked a voltmeter from the glow plugs
> (where wire attaches to plug) to ground on all plugs and got nothing. Then I
> hooked voltmeter from G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay box to ground
> respectively and got nothing. What else should I do and has my approach been
> correct so far?
>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
> Loren Faeth
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Is the 60 amp fuse the one that looks like a metal strip screwed in at both 
ends?

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 2, 2009, at 11:07 AM, Loren Faeth  wrote:

You almost had it.

Take the plug off the relay ,and test the G1-G4 points in the plug to ground.  
SHould be 1.4-1.7 ohms.  High resistance, indicates open circuit, and bad plug. 
 Lower resistance indicates a ground short, and a bad plug.

If they all went out at once, and the resistance is in the proper range, then 
you should look at the 60 amp fuse in the relay.  It can LOOK ok and be bad, so 
if you can't find another source of the problem, change the fuse and try that.  
Your problem could also be a failed relay or a failed ign switch (rare)

At 10:00 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:
I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are working.  I'm not familiar with 
this in parallel system, just the  old 220D in series system.  Anyway, I turned 
the key to glow position and hooked a voltmeter from the glow plugs (where wire 
attaches to plug) to ground on all plugs and got nothing. Then I hooked 
voltmeter from G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay box to ground respectively and 
got nothing. What else should I do and has my approach been correct so far?




___
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Loren Faeth 

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Re: [MBZ] Personality of Laberdoodles

2009-10-02 Thread andrew strasfogel
Then use birth control...

On Fri, Oct 2, 2009 at 10:15 AM, Gary Hurst  wrote:

> What if your cousin is cute though?
>
> On 10/2/09, Mitch Haley  wrote:
> > Angelo Giaimo wrote:
> >>  Mitch Haley  wrote re: Personality of Labradoodles:
> >>
> >>
> >> "For the same reason you shouldn't impregnate your cousin."
> >>
> >> Mitch,  Your logic escapes me...but that's OK. (BTW, that's in-breeding,
> >> not
> >> cross-breeding) But I did get a good laugh at your response.
> >
> >
> > The reason you don't breed your cousin is an increased chance of
> reinforcing
> > genetic defects when the kid picks up the defective gene from both
> parents.
> >
> > One reason for cross breeding dogs is to decrease the chance of a genetic
> > defect
> > hitting the pup from both parents. Most breeds have genetic problems,
> take
> > hip
> > displasia for example. Mixed breeds are just plain healthier genetically.
> >
> > Mitch.
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Loren Faeth

You almost had it.

Take the plug off the relay ,and test the G1-G4 points in the plug to 
ground.  SHould be 1.4-1.7 ohms.  High resistance, indicates open 
circuit, and bad plug.  Lower resistance indicates a ground short, 
and a bad plug.


If they all went out at once, and the resistance is in the proper 
range, then you should look at the 60 amp fuse in the relay.  It can 
LOOK ok and be bad, so if you can't find another source of the 
problem, change the fuse and try that.  Your problem could also be a 
failed relay or a failed ign switch (rare)


At 10:00 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:
I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are working.  I'm not 
familiar with this in parallel system, just the  old 220D in series 
system.  Anyway, I turned the key to glow position and hooked a 
voltmeter from the glow plugs (where wire attaches to plug) to 
ground on all plugs and got nothing. Then I hooked voltmeter from 
G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay box to ground respectively and got 
nothing. What else should I do and has my approach been correct so far?





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Loren Faeth 



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[MBZ] 240D glow plugs

2009-10-02 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
I don't think the glow plugs on my 82 240D are working.  I'm not familiar with 
this in parallel system, just the  old 220D in series system.  Anyway, I turned 
the key to glow position and hooked a voltmeter from the glow plugs (where wire 
attaches to plug) to ground on all plugs and got nothing. Then I hooked 
voltmeter from G1,G2,G3,G4 terminals in relay box to ground respectively and 
got nothing. What else should I do and has my approach been correct so far?


  

___
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Re: [MBZ] Personality of Laberdoodles

2009-10-02 Thread Gary Hurst
What if your cousin is cute though?

On 10/2/09, Mitch Haley  wrote:
> Angelo Giaimo wrote:
>>  Mitch Haley  wrote re: Personality of Labradoodles:
>>
>>
>> "For the same reason you shouldn't impregnate your cousin."
>>
>> Mitch,  Your logic escapes me...but that's OK. (BTW, that's in-breeding,
>> not
>> cross-breeding) But I did get a good laugh at your response.
>
>
> The reason you don't breed your cousin is an increased chance of reinforcing
> genetic defects when the kid picks up the defective gene from both parents.
>
> One reason for cross breeding dogs is to decrease the chance of a genetic
> defect
> hitting the pup from both parents. Most breeds have genetic problems, take
> hip
> displasia for example. Mixed breeds are just plain healthier genetically.
>
> Mitch.
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-02 Thread Loren Faeth

yes


At 08:11 AM 10/2/2009, you wrote:

Could it be driven onto a trailer?

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 9:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

Not as is, but it can be towed on a tow dolly


At 09:57 PM 10/1/2009, you wrote:
>Can it be driven?
>
>On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 9:35 AM, Loren Faeth
wrote:
>
> > My 87 300TD was scorched in a garage fire (arson) and it is for sale

> > for parts or if you want to do a ground up restoration, it and a
> rusty one would
> > make a good car.  Pretty much all the paint above the midlevel of
> > the doors is scorched off, so there would be little paint stripping
> required.  All the
> > doors and liftgate work.  All the sheet metal is straight,  I found
> > no damage to wiring, although the vacuum lines in the vicinity of
> > the EGR are burned.  Has good hydraulic suspension components,
including tandem pump.
> >  Interior is intact, but will be smoked.  Trans is good.  Had a
> > brand new radiator, front fenders and hood after bambi hit (0 miles
> > since) New vacuum pump.  TIres are not burned.  Rear glass is broken

> > out.  Windshield is cracked.  Paint on the inside of the doors is
good.  Kaleb turned it down.
> >  Make an offer   It is in central IA.   Title is clean, not marked
as
> > rebuilt or junk.  (No loans and no insurance at the time)  email
> to lfaeth a
> > t leadingchange   c om
> >
> > I will make pictures available to interested parties.
> >
> > Loren Faeth
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list
> > archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
>
>
>--
>OK Don
>CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
>distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with others.
>The Devil's Dictionary
>Ambrose Bierce
>-- next part -- An HTML attachment was
>scrubbed...
>URL:
>01/3b946fc0/attachment.html> ___

>http://www.okiebenz.com
>For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives
>http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Loren Faeth


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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-02 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Could it be driven onto a trailer?

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Loren Faeth
Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 9:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

Not as is, but it can be towed on a tow dolly


At 09:57 PM 10/1/2009, you wrote:
>Can it be driven?
>
>On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 9:35 AM, Loren Faeth
wrote:
>
> > My 87 300TD was scorched in a garage fire (arson) and it is for sale

> > for parts or if you want to do a ground up restoration, it and a
> rusty one would
> > make a good car.  Pretty much all the paint above the midlevel of 
> > the doors is scorched off, so there would be little paint stripping
> required.  All the
> > doors and liftgate work.  All the sheet metal is straight,  I found 
> > no damage to wiring, although the vacuum lines in the vicinity of 
> > the EGR are burned.  Has good hydraulic suspension components,
including tandem pump.
> >  Interior is intact, but will be smoked.  Trans is good.  Had a 
> > brand new radiator, front fenders and hood after bambi hit (0 miles 
> > since) New vacuum pump.  TIres are not burned.  Rear glass is broken

> > out.  Windshield is cracked.  Paint on the inside of the doors is
good.  Kaleb turned it down.
> >  Make an offer   It is in central IA.   Title is clean, not marked
as
> > rebuilt or junk.  (No loans and no insurance at the time)  email
> to lfaeth a
> > t leadingchange   c om
> >
> > I will make pictures available to interested parties.
> >
> > Loren Faeth
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list 
> > archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
>
>
>--
>OK Don
>CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as 
>distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with others.
>The Devil's Dictionary
>Ambrose Bierce
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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] Anybody want an 87 300TD?

2009-10-02 Thread Loren Faeth

Not as is, but it can be towed on a tow dolly


At 09:57 PM 10/1/2009, you wrote:

Can it be driven?

On Thu, Oct 1, 2009 at 9:35 AM, Loren Faeth wrote:

> My 87 300TD was scorched in a garage fire (arson) and it is for sale for
> parts or if you want to do a ground up restoration, it and a 
rusty one would

> make a good car.  Pretty much all the paint above the midlevel of the doors
> is scorched off, so there would be little paint stripping 
required.  All the

> doors and liftgate work.  All the sheet metal is straight,  I found no
> damage to wiring, although the vacuum lines in the vicinity of the EGR are
> burned.  Has good hydraulic suspension components, including tandem pump.
>  Interior is intact, but will be smoked.  Trans is good.  Had a brand new
> radiator, front fenders and hood after bambi hit (0 miles since) New vacuum
> pump.  TIres are not burned.  Rear glass is broken out.  Windshield is
> cracked.  Paint on the inside of the doors is good.  Kaleb turned it down.
>  Make an offer   It is in central IA.   Title is clean, not marked as
> rebuilt or junk.  (No loans and no insurance at the time)  email 
to lfaeth a

> t leadingchange   c om
>
> I will make pictures available to interested parties.
>
> Loren Faeth
>
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--
OK Don
CONSERVATIVE, n.  A statesman who is enamored of existing evils, as
distinguished from the Liberal, who wishes to replace them with
others.
The Devil's Dictionary
Ambrose Bierce
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Moose!

2009-10-02 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Wed, 30 Sep 2009 15:52:02 -0500 "harry watkins"
 wrote:

> This is not Friday, you can't do moose unless it's Friday.  NO MOOSE FOR
> YOU.

Well, it's now Friday on the east coast, so here's a picture of a moose.



Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Personality of Labradoodles

2009-10-02 Thread Jim Cathey

"For the same reason you shouldn't impregnate your cousin."


Inbreeding works very well---when combined with ruthless culling.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Personality of Laberdoodles

2009-10-02 Thread Mitch Haley

Angelo Giaimo wrote:

 Mitch Haley  wrote re: Personality of Labradoodles:


"For the same reason you shouldn't impregnate your cousin."

Mitch,  Your logic escapes me...but that's OK. (BTW, that's in-breeding, not
cross-breeding) But I did get a good laugh at your response.



The reason you don't breed your cousin is an increased chance of reinforcing 
genetic defects when the kid picks up the defective gene from both parents.


One reason for cross breeding dogs is to decrease the chance of a genetic defect 
hitting the pup from both parents. Most breeds have genetic problems, take hip 
displasia for example. Mixed breeds are just plain healthier genetically.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 for $4k, or maybe $3k, or maybe less?

2009-10-02 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
It has 243k, but someone else (owner of the local independent MB garage
that I favor) bought it. 

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 7:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 for $4k, or maybe $3k, or maybe less?

Its probably worth 3k.  How many miles are on it? 

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
> OK, here's the low-down.  Finally got to see the car last night.  Very

> sharp looking car, but I'm on the fence as to making an offer.
>
> Good:  
> -Evapectomy has been done; ACC functions perfectly and will freeze you

> out of the car.  Not sure if vacuum pods were done at same time, but 
> they all seem to work.
> -Other than the headliner which is falling down, interior looks really

> nice.
> -Exterior is very nice, straight, rust-free; metallic silver paint, a 
> great color.  I really only like white and silver in South Carolina 
> heat and humidity.
> -Vacuum pump has been changed.  Record of repair at ~150k miles shows 
> new timing chain at same time, and some other stuff from front of 
> engine.  I suspect vacuum pump failed, dumped into front engine cover 
> and took out the timing chain.  Lucky the motor wasn't destroyed as 
> well.
> -New radiator and condenser and grill after minor collision with 
> trailer hitch; engine holds temperature nicely.
>
> Bad:
> -Owner says it uses coolant, about a cup every two weeks/500 miles and

> shop has declared that head-gasket needs replacement.  I haven't yet 
> confirmed, would surprise me if shop wanted to do the work even if not

> needed or perhaps combine it with the following
> -One or more glow plugs are bad, and isn't this engine (OM606) 
> notorious for breaking off glow plugs which then require head removal?
> -Engine electrical harness is original and owner says shop says it 
> needs replacement.
> -Engine has low power; during wide open throttle acceleration, power 
> dropped off significantly at about 4k RPM and the car would quit 
> accelerating and not up shift.  I did two runs, and it was a little 
> better on second run, so maybe it simply is really carboned up (lots 
> of smoke during both runs) or maybe some of the complex stuff in the 
> intake is not working correctly.
> -Right rear window regulator has failed, window is taped in place to 
> hold it up.
> -Coolant is green stuff.
> -Brakes pulsate, probably warped rotors.
> -Records are incomplete, seem to be no records of oil changes for 
> significant periods in first 150k of cars life, but then good records 
> after that.  First indicated oil change is at 8k miles?!?  Some 
> service at dealerships, some at independent garages.
> -Rear view mirror adjustment is broken -Passenger visor vanity mirror 
> cover is broken
>
> Owner is advertising for $3800, told me after test drive that he'd 
> take $3000 "as is" or $3400 after fixing the rear window.
>
> I'm thinking about offering $2500 after testing coolant for presence 
> of gasses indicating head gasket failure.  I would need to fix brakes,

> glow plugs, window regulator, and change coolant immediately.
>
> Other bad news; as I was leaving the owner of the independent MB 
> garage I use was pulling up to look at the car.  So, I'm now bidding 
> against someone who knows as much if not more than me.
>
> Very respectfully,
> /s/
> LCDR Max Dillon
> '87 300TD 314k miles
> Charleston SC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Gary Hurst
> Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 7:23 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 for $4k
>
> It's a really desirable car and could easily merit that price
>
> On 9/24/09, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 
>  wrote:
>   
>> Dieselvolk,
>>
>> I've located a '95 E300, 243k miles, all records, for about $4k.  
>> Silver with grey interior, from the pix looks to be in very good 
>> shape.  Seem like a fair price?
>>
>> I need to add a third car to our stable so that I can start some of 
>> the larger projects on my wagon (like overhauling the rear 
>> suspension)
>> 
>
>   
>> and not be racing the clock every night to get her road-worthy again.
>>
>> Very respectfully,
>> /s/
>> LCDR Max Dillon
>> '87 300TD 314k miles
>> Charleston SC
>>
>>
>> -- next part -- An HTML attachment was 
>> scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> > 0 924/11175ab3/attachment.html> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>> 
>
> --
> Sent from my mobile device
>
> 

Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

2009-10-02 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
Larry,

I would imagine that if you simply added the DP to the fuel tank you
could avoid the scary scenario but still get all the benefits and it
would be much simpler to do as well.

What I'd like to know is if there is any credence to this scary
scenario.

Your email below appears to be cut-off mid-sentence ala LT Don with his
fat fingers/small keyboard.

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 6:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

Hi Max,
Well, that's a scary scenario!   Let's hope it isn't true!  I was
planning 
to run some DP thru tonight.  In the past I had to use some stuff called
Ferox to clean things.  My '91 had only 99k mi on it (avg 7000/yr) and
later speaking to the PO's assistant I learned he drove it daily round
trip of about 4 miles.  So it never got warm and that low temp driving
created carbon in the combustion system.  I got rid of it with the Ferox
and my wife helped by putting 100  mi +/- daily which was probably the
best method. 
She's now only driving 32 mi. RT daily  and I always put a dose (~4 oz)
Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel with each fill up, but the raves I hear
about Diesel Purge are so phenomenal I wanted to give it a try.  Lately,
our W124 300D has been idling roughly so I thought that'd be a good
starting point - I've checked most lt the i

BTW,

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: "Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310" 

Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 7:30 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel Purge

> Larry,
>
> Plan to spend about 15 or 20 minutes per can.
>
> I found a thread once on mercedesshop forum where a gentleman (who 
> claimed to rebuild IP's for a living or some such) wrote that Diesel 
> Purge caused damage because it loosened and flowed all the crap inside

> the pump, so the pump elements and the injectors could be damaged when

> all this crap with abrasive qualities came through at once.  Depending

> on what's in your pump, and if it has been feed a diet of low quality 
> fuel and never been cleaned by diesel purge, this guy said that there 
> could be deposits inside minding their own business and not bothering 
> anything, so why mess with them?  If your injectors need cleaning, 
> take them out and clean them by hand instead.
>
> I supposed that using bio-diesel or VO, which has much stronger 
> cleaning properties than #2 ULSD, may have the same affect?
>
> Anyone else ever heard of such a thing?  Anyone have a friend in the 
> IP rebuild business they could ask and verify?  I am skeptical; it 
> seems to me that the IP was probably super clean at installation in 
> the engine, and from then on all the fuel was filtered, so where could

> any abrasive particles come from to be deposited inside the pump?
>
> Max
>
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
> Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 5:02 PM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Subject: [MBZ] Diesel Purge
>
> I plan to run a can of Diesel Purge in my '91 300D for the 1st time.
>
> Question, the fuel return lines goes into the can as does fuel feed
> line.   How will I know when the full can of DP has run through the
> engine?  Doesn't the fuel return line keep refilling the can with 
> excess fuel?
>
> Also, about how long does it typically take - assuming I'll run the 
> engine at around 1500rpm?
>
> Thanks!
>
> LarryT
> 74 911
>
> OilAnalysis Time?
> Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
> www.youroil.net
>
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>  93
> 0/489ec8fb/attachment.html>
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>
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>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 for $4k, or maybe $3k, or maybe less?

2009-10-02 Thread Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310
I left my number and let him know that I'm interested in the car.

I do almost everything myself.  Anytime I have anything done to a car at
a garage, I am simply amazed at how expensive it is.

I really enjoy purchasing a car at a very low price which has a few
problems and then fixing myself, but right now it's tough to find time
to work on a car or any other project for that matter.

Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of R A Bennell
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 4:38 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 for $4k, or maybe $3k, or maybe less?

So, let him fix it and then buy it from him. Were you planning to do the
work yourself or were you going to take it to him for some or all of it
anyway?

RAndy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Dillon, Meade M CIV
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 12:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 for $4k, or maybe $3k, or maybe less?


Well, I stopped by his garage over lunch, and he bought it.  His major
concern is the head gasket, he may re-sell.  I wish I'd moved a little
quicker.

Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 2:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 for $4k, or maybe $3k, or maybe less?

Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:

> Other bad news; as I was leaving the owner of the independent MB 
> garage I use was pulling up to look at the car.  So, I'm now bidding 
> against someone who knows as much if not more than me.

No problem. Either he bought it, in which case you don't have to make a
decision, or he didn't, in which case he's not bidding against you.
Generally speaking, somebody like that does not want to pay much for a
project.
He's more in danger of getting his offer refused because you're still a
potential buyer than the other way around.
Mitch.

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